So if lifting 8k+ lb trucks with long wheelbases, I should avoid asymmetric and low profile arms? Or are asymmetric lifts ok in that situation as long as they have standard arms? I guess I am somewhat confused.
Symmetric or Asymmetric 2 Post for Trucks
- Thread starter duwem
- Start date
So if lifting 8k+ lb trucks with long wheelbases, I should avoid asymmetric and low profile arms? Or are asymmetric lifts ok in that situation as long as they have standard arms? I guess I am somewhat confused.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Personally I would look at what your most common vehicle or type of vehicle will be. I routinely lift full-size trucks on my 2-n-1 but if I were mostly working on 3/4 and 1-ton trucks I would prefer a symmectrical.
Where I work on a lot of Jeeps and cars with a few 3/4 and 1-ton trucks mixed in I opted for the symmetrical/asymmetrical style so I could keep the columns just a bit closer together and not encroach too much more into the shop which is already tight.
The symetrical lifts will do it all but for small and mid-size cars the column placement of an asymmetrical make getting into and out of the car easier. For just placing it that can be negotiated but there are many times I have a car on the lift and need to actually get into the car to the fuse panel or dash area. That is a pain with a symmetrical lift and a sedan.
Mike.
wolverine22391
Well-known member
If money isn't a problem go with Mohawk's A-7 lift. This lift can handle a crew cab Silverado no problem. Being under this lift I would even feel comfortable under a Silverado 3500, and the lift is 25 years old. The A-7 is asymmetric, has a pad height of 3.5 inches, and easily adjusted width wise for your setup.
Thank you for the info, I appreciate it. I will quit drooling over asymmetrical and 2in1 lifts and focus on symmetrical. There is rarely anything smaller than a half ton truck in my garage, and I do not see that changing anytime soon.
zkdiesel
Well-known member
Symmetrical is the best for you then
If you have to coin the rotary spo12 is the best lift I have found. Own two at home and convinced work to buy two for our extra bays
If you want to save some coin get a spo10 speced with 3 stage ta arms front and rear
I chose a Challenger CL-12 When I bought mine last year. It is symmetrical and it works great for everything I have. I life my CCSB duramax mostly. But also have a 74 porsche, side x sides to service and have had different cars/compact trucks on it as well. Glad I went with the symmetrical for sure. Mine is standard height and width, and never had an issue, it is tight getting out of my truck. If you are going to lift trucks most of the time, I would get symmetric IMO.
forAK
Well-known member
If you expect to be lifting long trucks much at all, I would advise a symmetrical lift. You don't want to have to work like this:
...A closer look:
Is it me, or doesn't this look like a symmetrical lift? The posts look squared off to each other versus tilted out.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
and works great for an old vehicle. Some newer stuff can't be left in N unless key is left in ignition and ON. If not a quick job then have to put in P. Also need to push brake pedal to get it out of park back into N.
I would still get a symmetric for a truck. A properly developed beer belly isn't going to help in this situation but I'm told a cold beer might.
Still leaning towards a 10k asymmetric. Don't think a 1/2 or even 3/4 ton truck is taxing it that much. And I would pick up those super tall jack stand things to stick under the rear.
Played around a bit more in the yard tonight.
With the post 11' from the front wall in the bay that would leave 6' behind the truck to the overhead door and 5' in front of the truck to the front wall. That way if I got a bit longer truck would still have some margin at the rear to walk around.
Could go 12' to the post (17ish feet to the door) and it would still work fine but I do need some room behind the truck to access the side bays too.
Played around a bit more in the yard tonight.
With the post 11' from the front wall in the bay that would leave 6' behind the truck to the overhead door and 5' in front of the truck to the front wall. That way if I got a bit longer truck would still have some margin at the rear to walk around.
Could go 12' to the post (17ish feet to the door) and it would still work fine but I do need some room behind the truck to access the side bays too.
tonycastec
Well-known member
One issue to resolve is the 2 stage/3Stage arm issue.
I have an old Mohawk that is grossly overkill for my Dodge D250 Cummins. It has massive 2 stage arms. 3 Stage arms would be useful in some situations - if they are strong enough.
The previous photo of the stake bed truck is ALARMING ! Just look at those banana arms and the stacked extensions !Tell me nobody worked under that ?
I have an old Mohawk that is grossly overkill for my Dodge D250 Cummins. It has massive 2 stage arms. 3 Stage arms would be useful in some situations - if they are strong enough.
The previous photo of the stake bed truck is ALARMING ! Just look at those banana arms and the stacked extensions !Tell me nobody worked under that ?
zkdiesel
Well-known member
It may not tax it for weight for arm location for lifting gets hard on a Lwb truck
killahog
Well-known member
I have the Bendpak XPR10ALP and it fine for an extended cab, one of the reasons I went with an asymmetrical was I wanted both arms to be positioned toward the rear of the lift when not in use. I didn't want to be tripping over the front arms.
rodsnratfinks
Well-known member
It's a trick of the camera. The arms are definitely asymmetric and quite short.
Here's another truck in that same bay recently:
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zkdiesel
Well-known member
I challenge anyone to come to my shop and use my rotary spo12 ta with frame adaptors and rubber pads, 3 stage arms front and rear to find something they can't rack or feel questionable lifting
They go small enough to rack a smart car and a Suzuki samauri
Then last night one had a ex cab f450 ford 9' dump truck on it, the other had a crew can long bed late model duramax welding truck with the def tank you have to dodge. Fords racked with rear arm on flat of frame directly in front of spring hanger, and Chevy racked on rear spring hanger. Can't do that with an asy lift with a truck that's heavy in the bed with the front lift arms still hitting the proper points like my symetrical lift can
They go small enough to rack a smart car and a Suzuki samauri
Then last night one had a ex cab f450 ford 9' dump truck on it, the other had a crew can long bed late model duramax welding truck with the def tank you have to dodge. Fords racked with rear arm on flat of frame directly in front of spring hanger, and Chevy racked on rear spring hanger. Can't do that with an asy lift with a truck that's heavy in the bed with the front lift arms still hitting the proper points like my symetrical lift can
I use an older 96/97 Rotary SPOA9 to lift my Extended Cab short box Duramax @7600#. I do put a jack under the hitch if I'm yanking on long breaker bars for added insurance. It feels pretty stable on the lift. As others mentioned, I do like the fact that I can kick both arms back. I park my Chevelle in that bay.
zkdiesel
Well-known member
3 stage arms are where its at. look at the length you get for pickup points, and can also be sucked back in tight for small cars
very little arm deflection
both trucks a fairly long wheelbase, whith each weighing right in at 10k give or take a few hundred pounds
very little arm deflection
both trucks a fairly long wheelbase, whith each weighing right in at 10k give or take a few hundred pounds
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forAK
Well-known member
Thanks zk, this is a great point with the 3 stage arms. Is it possible to order a symmetrical with 3 stage arms......without paying through the nose?
zkdiesel
Well-known member
Last I checked You can buy a 10k rotary spo 10 with 3 arm option kit for 4400 ish
A spo 12 is now 5800 ish
They are expensive but if you work on long wheel base trucks they are worth it
How much damage could you cause to your lift, the vehicle that's on it, and your body if you were to drop one because your tool wasn't correct for the job.
Makes the extra 2-4K more than a crappy bottom of a barrel lift look cheap....
Mike.ASC
Well-known member
I don't know if this will be of any benefit or not. Here is my CCSB Duramax on my Ammco 10k pound asymmetrical/symmetrical two post lift. If memory serves I ended up at 4' from the side wall, 14'6" from the column center to the shop door in the rear and 16'6" from column center to my workbenches in the front.
I still have about 6' between the front of my truck and the workbench with my CCSB on the lift.
Mike.
Pardon me for butting in, Mike do you get much arm deflection when lifting your truck with your lift?
I was thinking last night one thing I could do would be make my footing and area with no heat tubes longer front to back so I could put either a symmetric or asymmetric lift in when I get to that point financially. May be several years and might have different vehicles in the fleet then.
In a 30' deep bay would I aprox center a symmetric lift (15' and 15')?
In a 30' deep bay would I aprox center a symmetric lift (15' and 15')?
zkdiesel
Well-known member
13-14' from back wall is where I would set it up
At 13' you can have a crew cab long bed on it and still just squeeze around the back of it without issues
zkdiesel
Well-known member
Yes. Standing next to a crew cab dual dump truck 9' bed on a symetrical 18k
Center of rack to rear of truck is 12'
More room in fronts always nicer for doing work
That's also on lift where front door is past Column and opens entirely
I was planning on 11-12' pole location for asymmetrical from the back wall (part in front of the vehicle), so if I package protected in the heat tube locations for up to 14' from that wall (say a 4' long area with no tubes) seems I could use either a symmetric or asymmetric. Does that sound right to others as well?
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I would concur with this as mine is 17' back from the wall measured to the front of the mounting plate for the columns in a 34' deep garage. I can barely get the door closed with an extended cab longbed Dodge on the lift and with my CCSB Duramax I have about a foot between the rear bumper and garage door. What I do like is the room I have in front between the truck and the workbench. I was measuring the other day and when I build my new shop I am going to plan on mounting the lift columns @ 15' from the front wall. This will be in a 50' deep garage which should still allow another car/truck to be behind and still close the overhead door.
No, not much arm deflection at all. Even with my brother's 4-door longbed dually Dodge/Cummins it really doesn't deflect much at all. I don't know that I would lift anything much more than that though. I had a 4-door longbed 2006 Silverado Duramax that came in the shop about two years ago that I had to do a transfer case pump rub kit on and when the guy called me and I gave him a quote he didn't tell me it was his work truck. When he showed up it had a larger Miller Bobcat gas welder in the bed, two toolboxes down the bedsides loaded with tools, a 150-gallon fuel tank in the front of the bed and a larger ladder rack with metal and ladders on it. I about **** because I had planned on it being a nice easy stand under the truck TC removal and installation. The guys said that it weighed around 14k pounds and although I did try the lift and it raised it up, I didn't care for the slight bow in the arms and didn't want to either damage the truck nor my lift so I just did it on jackstands and on the floor in the shop.
Mike.
zkdiesel
Well-known member
That black dually in my previous picture was a almost twin to the wedding truck you describe. Welder, boxes, fuel tank. I estimated it at just over 10k and my spo12 did just fine with it on it.
Mike.ASC
Well-known member
Thanks for the reply Mike.
My Challenger 10K symmetric lift has three stage arms for and aft. I wouldn't say that I paid through the nose. Yes, it was more expensive than some lifts. I am a big proponent of the buy once and cry once mentality.
I like it a whole lot, although sometimes I wish the front arms were a little longer. It could be that I am not placing the vehicle in the correct position though. It came with a book showing the lifting points on many vehicles, but not necessarily where to place the vehicle in relation to the lifting arms.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks. My 10k lifted it but I just didn't feel comfortable under it is all as the arms were flexing just a bit more than I liked. I waffled about selling my two-post with my home and getting a 12k when I build my new shop but I think I will just take my 10k Ammco lift with me as it has done everything I have needed with the exception of that one truck.
Mike.