Yesterday's air compressor score,

[redmondjp]

If I read this correctly, this starter is rated for 40fla, at 240volt single phase 7.5hp. So this means I can use this starter?

Yes, that's a great starter and it's big enough for your motor. You just need to make sure that the overload heater strips (the vertical pieces of metal between the screw terminals at the bottom of the box) are selected to match your motor, in order to provide the proper protection.

The way those heater strips work is that they are supposed to heat up at the same rate as the motor windings, so if the motor gets too hot, so do those strips, which then expand, causing them to bend in the middle and trip off the contactor.

For a single-phase motor, you only need one heater strip (with a jumper on the other current-carrying pole, with the third pole not used), but there is no harm in using two heater strips.

Each motor starter manufacturer has a table (search online) showing the heater strip part numbers and what motor HP or full load amps correspond to each part number.

The other thing to check is the contactor coil voltage in the starter. Hopefully it's 208-230V (120V also OK but you have to then run a neutral wire into the starter). If 277V or 460-480V, then you'll have to change out the contactor coil.

 

[blazemaster83]

Nice compressor! I have a Quincy 390 head waiting to get hooked up, just building a shed for it first.

 

[motofool33]

Yes, that's a great starter and it's big enough for your motor. You just need to make sure that the overload heater strips (the vertical pieces of metal between the screw terminals at the bottom of the box) are selected to match your motor, in order to provide the proper protection.

The way those heater strips work is that they are supposed to heat up at the same rate as the motor windings, so if the motor gets too hot, so do those strips, which then expand, causing them to bend in the middle and trip off the contactor.

For a single-phase motor, you only need one heater strip (with a jumper on the other current-carrying pole, with the third pole not used), but there is no harm in using two heater strips.

Each motor starter manufacturer has a table (search online) showing the heater strip part numbers and what motor HP or full load amps correspond to each part number.

The other thing to check is the contactor coil voltage in the starter. Hopefully it's 208-230V (120V also OK but you have to then run a neutral wire into the starter). If 277V or 460-480V, then you'll have to change out the contactor coil.

just making sure i understand which heater strip your talking about these where i put the arrow are what your talking about right.

where would the coil voltage be listed on the electronics, i might be able to find the info by the motor starter part number.

 

[sailah]

No the heaters are the next vertical strips below your arrow.

 

[motofool33]

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[motofool33]

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

rotated pictures

 

[motofool33]

So it looks like the 25 sized heaters are too small, was expecting that. But now need to figure out where to buy em.

On the coil it appears to me it's good for 240volt single phase anyone else see a reason it isnt?


And last question how can I wire in a switch to turn this thing in and off cause the magnetic starter only has reset.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[redmondjp]

So it looks like the 25 sized heaters are too small, was expecting that. But now need to figure out where to buy em.

On the coil it appears to me it's good for 240volt single phase anyone else see a reason it isnt?


And last question how can I wire in a switch to turn this thing in and off cause the magnetic starter only has reset.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

See the picture above of the motor starter wiring diagram that motofool posted (thanks!), which only shows a a portion of the complete circuit necessary.

Your manual on/off switch is wired in series with the coil and the pressure switch (and optionally a low-oil level switch if so equipped), as well as the overload section. A fuse in the control circuit is optional but a good idea.

You start from L1 at the input side of the contactor, through fuse, then manual switch, through pressure switch, and finally to one side of the contactor coil. In the picture above, ALL of the wiring I just described is not shown other than the contactor coil itself (the circle at the top center of the diagram, with the smaller two circles on each side of it being its two terminals).

The other side of the contactor coil goes to the overload (sometimes this connection is already made), and finally out of the overload unit to L2 at the input to the contactor (wire 'B'). All of this wiring IS shown in the picture.

 

[motofool33]

See the picture above of the motor starter wiring diagram that motofool posted (thanks!), which only shows a a portion of the complete circuit necessary.

Your manual on/off switch is wired in series with the coil and the pressure switch (and optionally a low-oil level switch if so equipped), as well as the overload section. A fuse in the control circuit is optional but a good idea.

You start from L1 at the input side of the contactor, through fuse, then manual switch, through pressure switch, and finally to one side of the contactor coil. In the picture above, ALL of the wiring I just described is not shown other than the contactor coil itself (the circle at the top center of the diagram, with the smaller two circles on each side of it being its two terminals).

The other side of the contactor coil goes to the overload (sometimes this connection is already made), and finally out of the overload unit to L2 at the input to the contactor (wire 'B'). All of this wiring IS shown in the picture.

Appreciate the reply read it a few times, definitely gonna have to draw it out for true understanding. Just can't picture wiring layouts in my head yet, but I'm getting better with each project.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[motofool33]

having trouble locating the B50 TOH(thermal overload Heaters)
grainger is asking for the motor starter series, but nothing matches up with the part number on the sticker above.

is there an easier place to find them?

 

[CompressorPros.com]

You would need a pulley 1/2 the diameter of the current one

 

[motofool33]

You would need a pulley 1/2 the diameter of the current one

1/2 the diameter of which one?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[bsaint]

Looking at the motor it looks like it might be dual voltage can anyone she'd some light on the 230 volt YY configuration?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Its just the way its wired internally. Its a standard 9 lead dual voltage motor. You could prob sell it to contribute to the cost of a single phase motor. Quincy dealer should be able to help you get the right pulley size for a 7.5 if that pump is rated to run at 7.5 hp. Smaller pulley will slow the pump down thus slowing the flow of oil down. Maybe not an issue with pressure lube.

 

[bsaint]

You would need a pulley 1/2 the diameter of the current one

Strange. How did you come to this conclusion?

The difference between my kellogg's 3hp and 5hp pulley is definitely not half the size.

 

[motofool33]

I have the new pulled 6.35" 3 rib with taper hub, for the 7.5hp single phase weg I bought.

What I'm trying to figure out now is where to get the b50 TOH for my motor starter, if I can use this one and not spend 150$ putting new heaters and on/off switch would be awesome less landfill junk.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[bsaint]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F0...uare+d+b50&dpPl=1&dpID=41C-lbKtpDL&ref=plSrch

 

[motofool33]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00F0...uare+d+b50&dpPl=1&dpID=41C-lbKtpDL&ref=plSrch

Was just about to order those when I saw they max at 30 amps not 35 like I need

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[bsaint]

Whats the largest current rating on that starter? You may have to go up to the next starter size.

 

[motofool33]

It's all listed in pics(post 46), the info on the tag doesn't match up with the info on TOH, when you go to buy them

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[bsaint]

Maybe its described wrong? Dont forget 3 phase rating is lower - right about 30.

Grainger says good to 38.8 on single phase. (Same heater.)
http://www.grainger.com/product/SQUARE-D-Thermal-Unit-1H630

 

[motofool33]

Maybe its described wrong? Dont forget 3 phase rating is lower - right about 30.

Grainger says good to 38.8 on single phase. (Same heater.)
http://www.grainger.com/product/SQUARE-D-Thermal-Unit-1H630

Somehow I believe grainger more then amazon

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[Brad J.]

My 7.5 hp quincy 340 pump has the same large diameter pulley and I run a 9" small pulley and it's reads 800 rpm on my meter.

I think the 6" pulley is awful small. I'd run the 7.5 with your 9.75" pulley and see what it does. If it doesn't load the motor to hard then your making more air.

You mentioned blasting and that takes more air than even the 370 if cabable of. Sure you can do it but to be efficient you need air. I run my 340 and a 325 when I blast and I'm limited. With a .200" air nozzle it maintains 50-60 psi. Sheet metal no problem as I blast with lower pressures than that but a frame or heavy steel I want at least 100 psi to do it quickly.

I have a 350 and 370 Quincy that I run PTO driven by a tractor when I blast a frame or a body.

 

[motofool33]

My 7.5 hp quincy 340 pump has the same large diameter pulley and I run a 9" small pulley and it's reads 800 rpm on my meter.

I think the 6" pulley is awful small. I'd run the 7.5 with your 9.75" pulley and see what it does. If it doesn't load the motor to hard then your making more air.

You mentioned blasting and that takes more air than even the 370 if cabable of. Sure you can do it but to be efficient you need air. I run my 340 and a 325 when I blast and I'm limited. With a .200" air nozzle it maintains 50-60 psi. Sheet metal no problem as I blast with lower pressures than that but a frame or heavy steel I want at least 100 psi to do it quickly.

I have a 350 and 370 Quincy that I run PTO driven by a tractor when I blast a frame or a body.

I'm blasting now with a 5hp t30 18 cfm output if the quincy at 30 cfm is not better I'm gonna be seriously upset.

As far as the pulley I got the info from quincy tech support.



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[motofool33]

Well after Pricing the Heaters, and getting a switch it was atleast half the cost of a new starter so i ordered a new WEG starter with start stop function from here:

http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/products/Motor_Starters/MS0033.html


but now i have one question, can i use the original pressure switch or does it also need to be new and a single phase version?>

 

[redmondjp]

Well after Pricing the Heaters, and getting a switch it was atleast half the cost of a new starter so i ordered a new WEG starter with start stop function from here:

http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/products/Motor_Starters/MS0033.html


but now i have one question, can i use the original pressure switch or does it also need to be new and a single phase version?>

You can use the same switch. It will be connected in series with the contactor coil inside the motor starter.

 

[motofool33]

New starter now to figure out how to wire this thing.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[motofool33]

And the cover


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[motofool33]

So I've wired up the motor and the motor starter.

Ran 6AWG to the Motor and use Screw down Double splices wrapped with 2 layers of heat shrink for shielding.

terminated the 6awg at the motor starter and ran some grounds to the two mounting bolts since the case is plastic.

before


after

 

[motofool33]

Updated earlier post, plan to get some new flextight for the pressure switch wires and run that over today and the wiring will be complete.

 

[FTG-05]

Well after Pricing the Heaters, and getting a switch it was atleast half the cost of a new starter so i ordered a new WEG starter with start stop function from here:

http://www.temcoindustrialpower.com/products/Motor_Starters/MS0033.html


but now i have one question, can i use the original pressure switch or does it also need to be new and a single phase version?>

I plan to get virtually the same mag starter for my compressor; I'll get the reset only version of this starter.

 

[motofool33]

Wiring complete except to the wall

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[motofool33]

Well i got the new outlet ran in seal tight, and new 50amp breaker installed, and wired it into motor for testing. Everything worked great, had small hiccup on using wrong contacts on pressure switch which made the starter not work properly. But once i moved them it functions correctly now.

Once i get some belts tomorrow ill find out if it makes air or not.

And then i can move it into its spot and properly attach the conduit to wall.

This was my first electrical wire job, pretty satisfied with myself at this point.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[motofool33]

So i got some belts on this monster last night, and upon start up it trips the breaker before the pump can do more then one rotation.

im not sure if its the startup amps are too high, or theres too much resistance in the pump turning over. theres oil in the bottom end of the compressor, but not sure if any is still in the top as its sat for 3 years atleast.

any suggestions, i want to try a larger breaker but i have a feeling that is not my issue.

 

[redmondjp]

Try removing the belts and seeing if the motor will start with no load on it first.

And is it tripping the circuit breaker at the panel, or the motor overload inside your starter?

 

[lakeroadster]

Have you removed the inspection plug on the side of the tank and done a visual inspection? Might be worth a "look-see" before you run the pressure up.

 

[motofool33]

The valve on tank is open during these tests, i even took off the inake and exhaust pipes so its not fighting anythung but itself.

The motor will turn the compressor pump between 1 and 4 times then the overload kicks in on the motor starter.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

[redmondjp]

What do you have the overload setting at? If it can't even get the motor to start while unloaded, then you need to adjust it to trip at a higher current.

 

[motofool33]

What do you have the overload setting at? If it can't even get the motor to start while unloaded, then you need to adjust it to trip at a higher current.

So with a 50amp breaker remove belts on the compressor motor starts like a dream.

hooked up belts with the compressor plumbed in and tank valve closed.
trips the 50 amp breaker.

replaced breaker with 70amp

now after about 8 seconds of struggling the motor starter over load trips.
i followed the instructions and set the dot pointed at 35amps. ill take a picture of it tomorrow.

suppose i could adjust that a bit higher.

when turning the compressor over its definitely making air, sounds like the piston rings are in good condition. nice kalug when you spin the large pulley.

To me it is hard to turn the compressor over in comparison to my 5hp but i would expect a 7.5hp motor to have no trouble doing this. cause i can do it with one hand.

 

[redmondjp]

I'm stumped on this one - that motor should start up in less than 8 seconds.

Have you verified whether the unloader function of the pump is functional?

 

[motofool33]

I'm stumped on this one - that motor should start up in less than 8 seconds.

Have you verified whether the unloader function of the pump is functional?

so far the only way i can verify is to pull the safety valves and there is not much pressure on them when i do pull them. if there is an internal valve or unloader function i dont know about it.