Single swing out RV gate project

[mikes02ls1]

Single swing out or a better design dual RV gate project

Hello I'm about to start my RV gate project before the years up. Going to steel company to pick up two 9' gate post 4" by 3/16" thick square tubing for my posts. Then for the frame of the gate some 2" by 3/16" thick square tubing to build a 12" 1/2" x 6' single swing out gate I see to be uneducated in this field so very sorry. A dual gate like I have might be the best for me but want to make it beefer, yes I will and more brick to make it all one level. Will have heavy duty hinges, with a 1200lb magnetic lock. Im going to set the gate up for a opener. I will have some friends help me since I cant weld, I do have the vision of what it will look like. Don't think it's too hard to build a gate, hopefully wont need a college degree.. lol
When I get all the metal together if anyone is close or willing to come to Casa Grande to maybe give a hand I would love it. So by Dec, Jan is when I want to try and start it. Got to hustle and save.

 

[readhead]

Kind of puzzled about a single gate with an operator for an RV. Just asking.

 

[mikes02ls1]

Kind of puzzled about a single gate with an operator for an RV. Just asking.

I will have a garage in the back yard, my truck is 22' long and won't fit in my garage, and I dont own a RV so I bought this house with this access.. So why not park my big truck in the backyard. I hate the twin gates that swing outward, so I want to make a single swing out with a gate opener. When I get off of work pull up hit the button to open the gate and back my truck into my RV parking.

 

[theoldwizard1]

How deep will your gate post be ? I recommend at least 4' and the hole should be at least 3' across.

You did not say how big the gate post will be ? It doesn't matter Your gate posts WILL bend. Period. I would go with a 6"x6"x1/4" square tube. When you set in the concrete footer, fill the tube with concrete.

Actually, if you want a one piece gate. Make one of your post about 12' above the ground, fill it with concrete and run a 1/8" steel cable from the top of this post to the far end of the gate. Put a turnbuckle in it. As the post bends, you can tightten it up.

Good luck.

 

[mikes02ls1]

How deep will your gate post be ? I recommend at least 4' and the hole should be at least 3' across.

You did not say how big the gate post will be ? It doesn't matter Your gate posts WILL bend. Period. I would go with a 6"x6"x1/4" square tube. When you set in the concrete footer, fill the tube with concrete.

Actually, if you want a one piece gate. Make one of your post about 12' above the ground, fill it with concrete and run a 1/8" steel cable from the top of this post to the far end of the gate. Put a turnbuckle in it. As the post bends, you can tightten it up.

Good luck.

3' in the ground. Hmm might rethink it and go 6x6 1/4, was going to fill the posts up with concrete. I want it to sing out towards the house. That side I could do a 3' hole and sink the post 4-5' in the ground. Other side will hold the the magnetic lock and its at the edge of my property so I can't go with a hole 3' in diameter.

 

[readhead]

Good answer for the single gate. Makes sense now. We build gates on a regular basis and the wizard is correct. Your original post would be under sized. You don't say but I am guessing Casa Grande Arizona so snow will not be an issue. I would agree with the 4' in the ground. I would spec a 6x6x3/8" tube. I don't think there will be deflection. However that is with a very large chunck of concrete. I would also recommend adjustable hinges so you can adjust how the gate hangs. If you are using an operator there really is no need for a latch unless the operator is outside the gate and security is an issue.

 

[mikes02ls1]

Good answer for the single gate. Makes sense now. We build gates on a regular basis and the wizard is correct. Your original post would be under sized. You don't say but I am guessing Casa Grande Arizona so snow will not be an issue. I would agree with the 4' in the ground. I would spec a 6x6x3/8" tube. I don't think there will be deflection. However that is with a very large chunck of concrete. I would also recommend adjustable hinges so you can adjust how the gate hangs. If you are using an operator there really is no need for a latch unless the operator is outside the gate and security is an issue.

Yeah I have enough room on the house side to cut the concrete and dig the hole, if it was the other side I would only about 4 inches on one side of the pole.

 

[56rpm]

I like the soft lines of a curved top tube. Adds classic lines and is better looking than a flat top tube. Most steel or fab shops can bend it.

 

[mikes02ls1]

This is what i'm working with space and property lines. Plus the gas lines which scare me. I'm open for ideas. These rod iron gates just seem to flimsy.

 

[mikes02ls1]

More

 

[rsanter]

How,about convert what you have
Turn it into a folding gate. Put a couple,gears and a chain at the top and an opener along the fence to pull or push the gate open and when the gate gets pushed it will fold

Bob

 

[kbs2244]

A single panel gate will need a deeper post hole that 3 feet unless you put a caster on the outside end.
There is a lot of leverage at that width.
I would go 6 feet at least.

I like the folding gate idea.

 

[iajonesy]

First thing you need to find out, is where that gas line runs. That could very well dictate what you have for post room. I would follow "redhead's" advice as he is a pro at this sort of thing. Good luck.

Mike

 

[theoldwizard1]

I would agree with the 4' in the ground. I would spec a 6x6x3/8" tube. I don't think there will be deflection. However that is with a very large chunk of concrete..

Yep ! 3'x3'x4' is 1.33 yds of concrete which is 64 80lb bags of Quikrete !

I still say, fill the tube with concrete.

Readhead, do you think the OP is going to need a support wire (from an extended gate post to the far end of the gate) or possibly a caster ?

 

[Zeke]

The gas should run straight to the street. I'll bet you can dig to china where the pilaster is now. Just do it by hand.

One thing you can do is take the block pilaster down. Put the new post close to the house and use the house for an attachment up high on the post. Another thing to do is do double posts in the same footing about 1' apart. Create some truss like webbing between the posts. They ain't defecting. The footing may tip though.

Tie it to the house. Let it pull the house over.

 

[readhead]

I don't think a wire would be necessary. The whole issue is the bending moment at the surface of the driveway. I like Zeke's idea of the double post. It could be designed to resemble the gate on the outside.

One thing that hasn't even been talked about is the construction of the gate. It needs to be as light as possible.

 

[theoldwizard1]

One thing that hasn't even been talked about is the construction of the gate. It needs to be as light as possible.

Oh it has been talked about !

... Then for the frame of the gate some 2" by 3/16" thick square tubing to build a 12' 1/2" x 6' single swing out gate, ...

2x2x3/16 steel square tube is 4.6 lbs/foot ! About 165 lbs just for that steel !

2" round tube is still 3.6 lbs/foot.

 

[readhead]

I saw that but what about the rest.

 

[theoldwizard1]

One thing you can do is take the block pilaster down. Put the new post close to the house and use the house for an attachment up high on the post.
.
.
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Tie it to the house. Let it pull the house over.

But that is the problem. Most homes in the US are "face brick". Any connect to the brick will just pull the brick out !

Even if you could tie it to a stud, I would be concerned that it would pull out the fastener or break the 2x4 stud.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I saw that but what about the rest.

6' 1x6 boards ? About 30 of them. [SARCASM]They won't weight that much ![/SARCASM]

 

[mikes02ls1]

I don't think a wire would be necessary. The whole issue is the bending moment at the surface of the driveway. I like Zeke's idea of the double post. It could be designed to resemble the gate on the outside.

One thing that hasn't even been talked about is the construction of the gate. It needs to be as light as possible.

The gate frame with be 2" square tubing may go 14 ga with a cross brace. Haven't decide on what to make the face of the gate out of. Been thinking of a caster wheel on the other end. I'm no pro, just want to improve on the design and not use wrought iron.

 

[readhead]

A wheel isn't a bad idea as long as the driveway is fairly flat for the entire swing of the gate. Most casters will be spring loaded to take up small variations in the driveway. I recently had to build a gate out of aluminum to keep the weight down and make it work with the operator. By the way it is wrought iron.

 

[mikes02ls1]

A wheel isn't a bad idea as long as the driveway is fairly flat for the entire swing of the gate. Most casters will be spring loaded to take up small variations in the driveway. I recently had to build a gate out of aluminum to keep the weight down and make it work with the operator. By the way it is wrought iron.

Thank you, and sorry for the misspelling. If I had someone with a tig, or mig set up for aluminum, I would go that route. I was looking at these hinges barrel weld on ball bearing hinges, but open for ideas. If I had to pay someone to build this gate I bet it be up to a few thousand or more.

 

[mikes02ls1]

I kind of got a vision but any gate professional out there could draw up something for and let me know what kind of cost for their time I would love that. Again I'm a rookie throwing ideas around and a better gate then the mass produce one in my neighborhood.
Thank you all for dealing with my may seem to be silly ideas to folks in this profession.

 

[mikes02ls1]

For less post strength it might be easier to keep the same design but build it with some balls, and have openers. Is this possible for a rookie with help?