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Need an industrial strength TORX bit

kornjulio

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Jun 25, 2006
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787
Need an industrial strength TORX bit *it's out!*

OK...so here's the project: I want to remove the carpet from my S10 to give it a good scrubbing and get out the salt moguls that have accumulated from 10 years of winter driving. To get there, I need to remove the seats and there's a T50 bolt that anchors the rear inboard leg of the riser.

I started with my Lisle T50 bit and 1/2" breaker bar. After a few grunts with zero results; I decided to switch to the impact motor and quit playing games. After 10 seconds, the bit snapped. :mad:

No big deal, move up to the Craftsman bit. It lasted for about 60 seconds before snapping, too. :mad::mad:

Now I'm pissed and that bolt is doing nothing but grinning at me.:mad::mad::mad:

So what bit do I need to get that'll withstand some time from the impact hammer and get the job done?

Update 7/17: Finally got a SO bit from my neighbor; but on my impact it still wasn't budging. The same neighbor recently purchased an IR impact, so he brought it over. Backed the bolt right out!

I'm feeling a little less manly right now, but I can proceed with removing the seats!
 
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Joelfke

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Mar 31, 2009
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i would agree with deafautotech.....in the dealership i work at, NOTHING holds up like a snapon torx bit. i have a lisle set too, which is half in pieces, my snapon bits are fine and my matco bits are broken and in need of warranty...

try searching ebay for just the T50 bit, you can probably get it cheap there

if no one else has a spare....
 

bmwpower

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impact torx?

heat carefully from bottom?
 
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BUBJEL

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Jul 15, 2007
Messages
32
First of all; I assumed you use penetrating fluid first; I would also suggest using a hand impact driver instead of impact wrench; I have used both Lisle & Craftsman torx bits (never really been impressed with either) I purchased a set of HF Pittsurgh Professional torx bits just for a spare set; & have really been surprised at how good they perform.
 

fordracing200

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Apr 17, 2009
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629
you don't need anything but a grinder, grind the ******* off, once you pull the carpet, heat it up and blow it through with an air hammer and put a new bolt/nut in
 
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kornjulio

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Jun 25, 2006
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Thanks for the replies. In all fairness, I didn't shoot the bolt with any penetrant first - but keep in mind this bolt is in the interior and runs down through the floor pan into a "soapdish nut". This bolt cuts the threads into the nut when it's installed at the factory & generates a lot of clamp load; for obvious reasons like making darn well sure the seat stays anchored to the floor in the event of a wreck.

Long story short, I don't think corrosion is holding me back; it's just going to be a tought nut to crack because of the design. Irregardless, I'll hit the underside of the bolt with some Blaster next time.

I think I'll go after one of the Snap-On bits. I got a few neighbors where the white truck routinely makes a stop at their job.....will let you know how it turns out....

PS: I don't have a hand impact driver - are these things worth the money; or am I wasting my time adding one to the toolbox?...
 
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35mastr

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Location
Norcal
Make sure that that fastener is not a torx plus. Many GM's used that style.

If it is and you use a regular one.You are going to round it off at the head.
 

UK Steve

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Mar 13, 2009
Messages
171
jeez... best torx bit is Snap on heavy duty removal torx driver....

It's a shame you guys over in the US don't have Ko-ken because they are the best on the market bar none (including the gold ones).
What you need is a good quality attack driver (impact driver) Ko-ken if poss
a 5/16 bit holder and a Ko-ken 100T-35T50 which will fit the bit holder alternativley a 1/2" drive bit holder Ko-ken 14106 (16mm bit holder) and a 107-16T50 impact bit (16mm hex) put it on an impact gun and give the bolt the bad news...done........
 
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kornjulio

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Jun 25, 2006
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Make sure that that fastener is not a torx plus. Many GM's used that style.

What's a good way to tell the difference? As far as I can tell, it's a standard TORX and the abuse I've given it so far hasn't damaged the recess....
 

-B-

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Feb 4, 2009
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Location
Northshore of Boston
Hand held impact drivers are one of the best little tools around well worth the 15-35 ( even off a truck it is cheap) Just use a good heavy dead blow steel hammer and nothing is stuck ever.
 

Deafautotech

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Jan 5, 2007
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7,653
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
It's a shame you guys over in the US don't have Ko-ken because they are the best on the market bar none (including the gold ones).
What you need is a good quality attack driver (impact driver) Ko-ken if poss
a 5/16 bit holder and a Ko-ken 100T-35T50 which will fit the bit holder alternativley a 1/2" drive bit holder Ko-ken 14106 (16mm bit holder) and a 107-16T50 impact bit (16mm hex) put it on an impact gun and give the bolt the bad news...done........

wow, I am never see or heard about that brand.. why not you show that brand on picture so we can see what it look like...
 

UK Steve

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Mar 13, 2009
Messages
171
wow, I am never see or heard about that brand.. why not you show that brand on picture so we can see what it look like...

The 14105 with T50 bit

T50.jpg

The attack driver with variuos bits this driver is superb.

DSC00402.jpg

Just in case youre not sure about the Torx Plus the first one is Ribe the second is Torx plus the third is Torx. The colour is only to highlight the profile

TORXPL~3.JPG
 

UK Steve

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Mar 13, 2009
Messages
171
Do we get Ko-Ken over here? :confused:

And I find this quite funny,
if you ask your Snappy dealer for a 1/2" drive 24mm allen key socket (suzuki GSX wheel spindle) he will sell you a Ko-ken one, Oh how the mighty have fallen........
 

fordracing200

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Joined
Apr 17, 2009
Messages
629
Thanks for the replies. In all fairness, I didn't shoot the bolt with any penetrant first - but keep in mind this bolt is in the interior and runs down through the floor pan into a "soapdish nut". This bolt cuts the threads into the nut when it's installed at the factory & generates a lot of clamp load; for obvious reasons like making darn well sure the seat stays anchored to the floor in the event of a wreck.

Long story short, I don't think corrosion is holding me back; it's just going to be a tought nut to crack because of the design. Irregardless, I'll hit the underside of the bolt with some Blaster next time.

I think I'll go after one of the Snap-On bits. I got a few neighbors where the white truck routinely makes a stop at their job.....will let you know how it turns out....

PS: I don't have a hand impact driver - are these things worth the money; or am I wasting my time adding one to the toolbox?...

25 bucks at sears, worth every dime.
 
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kornjulio

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Jun 25, 2006
Messages
787
Just a quick update: I got the hand impact driver from Sears when I exchanged my broken bit. Gave it a few whacks & the bolt didn't budge. Not wanting to destroy another Sears bit; I've asked my neighbor to buy me a SO impact bit when the truck comes to his job this Friday. Then I'll get serious about this job again....
 
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