Heavy Duty Welding/Layout Table Build, MK II

[Boosted1]

Wow!
That is one huge, massive table.

 

[Duker]

If this this thread is half as good as the first it will be AWESOME! Looking good!

 

[dr_clyde]

Had some time the other night, so I finished up the last of the fabrication on the base.

Here it is all welded up and ready for primer.

The weather was good, so I decided I should shoot the primer while there was still daylight.

That's all for now, its another nice evening so I'm off to spray the topcoat.

 

[Strouty]

Nice!

 

[zmotorsports]

That is a fantastic looking table. However, I wonder if it is heavy enough.

Mike.

 

[richeyc2000]

That is a thing of beauty. Fantastic job. [emoji3]


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[dr_clyde]

Well, I suppose its time for an update. I've gotten busy and this project kind of was put on hold until I had some more free evenings.

I finished the frame painting, machine grey. I prefer understated colors with accents, if I have a choice. I think grey just fits nicely in a machine shop.

Next up was the fitting of the top to the base. I wanted to flip the top, as I have been building this table upside down. I got caught up in the moment and forgot to take pictures... Rigging a touch over 2000 pounds takes your full concentration.

Either way, got it flipped and set onto the base, all the mounting holes line up.

I bolted the top to the base, then set about installing the leveling feet.

Before I sent the other one on its way, I set them next to each other for a family photo. They are both the same size, the perspective is a tad skewed.

Then it was back into the shop, and as you can see, was pressed into service immediately. The shop is a disaster right now because the table was also storage for all the clamps and welding tools that are now littered about on the floor. I need to get the shelves cut soon. I also painted the edge to match the blue on the welding cart. Just cuz.

A couple days later I had a chance to drill a few holes. The salesman from the welding supply must have felt bad for me, because a "demo" Hougen mag drill showed up with the right size rotobroaches...

This thing makes short work of these holes. I can lean on it as hard as I please and it just keeps on crankin. I does make a mess though. But it beats doing it with twist drills and my old Milwaukee that weighs twice as much.

More soon, that is as far as I am right now. Thanks for looking.

 

[Strouty]

The table looks great, for some reason that drill almost matches the blue on the table. Maybe it is a sign?

 

[MarkG]

Cool! 'Anything worth doing is worth OVER-doing' I guess!!

 

[tlmartin84]

Where did you get the legs?

Nevermind, I re-read the thread and found your link!

 

[BD1]

That turned out great !

As for the top , I don't know if I could use it ! Way too nice.

 

[trackwelder]

Very nice!!!!

 

[ford33]

You do excellent work. I like the table and the story you tell.

 

[doojus]

Amazing table!

Can you share how you did the layout for the holes with the mag drill? With such a precisely ground table I'd assume you'd want your hole placement done just as precisely.

 

[ez-duzit]

Lovely workmanship.

 

[sanddan]

I have serious table envy, beautiful table and excellent workmanship!

 

[dkroth]

A couple days later I had a chance to drill a few holes. The salesman from the welding supply must have felt bad for me, because a "demo" Hougen mag drill showed up with the right size rotobroaches...

dr_clyde, what do the bits look like on that thing? I googled and there seem to be many styles to choose from.

 

[aka Larry]

These weld nuts are great. Available from McMaster, you simply drill the corresponding pilot hole and the nut self locates over the hole.

This is interesting because I use a lot of 1/4"-20 nuts this way on stuff I build (usually for leveling feet as well) so I ordered some from MMC. The odd thing is mine don't have enough of raised area to self-locate in the pilot hole. The "projections" seem to negate most of the raised boss in my case.

 

[dr_clyde]

Amazing table!

Can you share how you did the layout for the holes with the mag drill? With such a precisely ground table I'd assume you'd want your hole placement done just as precisely.

I just laid it out using a scriber and some squares. I have a 24" blade for my starrett combo square, and I used a adjustable drywall square for the holes in the center. It works well as long as you do dummy checks and measure everything carefully.

 

[dr_clyde]

dr_clyde, what do the bits look like on that thing? I googled and there seem to be many styles to choose from.

This drill was set up for a rotabroach cutter. Similar to this, but with a pilot pin to locate on the punch mark. By contrast, my Milwaukee mag drill has a MT3 spindle, and I can use a jacobs chuck or weldon adapter in it.

 

[dr_clyde]

This is interesting because I use a lot of 1/4"-20 nuts this way on stuff I build (usually for leveling feet as well) so I ordered some from MMC. The odd thing is mine don't have enough of raised area to self-locate in the pilot hole. The "projections" seem to negate most of the raised boss in my case.

Larry,

The boss is not as proud as you may want for some applications, but they are made to accommodate sheet metal. The idea is to be able to add threads where you wouldn't otherwise due to thin material. I find that the hole sizes needed are a funny in between size, so I use a slightly undersized hole and then a quick chamfer with a countersink. Seems to work for me, but YMMV.

 

[longlivepunk]

Those "Rotabroach" things you mentioned are just a coring bit I assume? Or are they something special I don't know about? Great looking table, can't wait to see the beautiful work that comes off of it!

Edit: Nevermind, you answered while I was typing.

 

[wmrra13]

Awesome everything - Thanks for sharing!

I understand why you don't want six legs but, why did you put the heavy 4" frame on the bottom? If it's rigid enough not to deflect from the weight of the plate, why not use it directly under the top and not need the vertical supports in the center?

I *really* like your shop! What is your primary business? I see a lot of stainless parts and pumps scattered about. Do you fab and/or service food or dairy equipment?

All the best,
Tyler

 

[dr_clyde]

Awesome everything - Thanks for sharing!

I understand why you don't want six legs but, why did you put the heavy 4" frame on the bottom? If it's rigid enough not to deflect from the weight of the plate, why not use it directly under the top and not need the vertical supports in the center?

I *really* like your shop! What is your primary business? I see a lot of stainless parts and pumps scattered about. Do you fab and/or service food or dairy equipment?

All the best,
Tyler

Thanks for the kind words. I appreciate the compliments.

The 4" being at the bottom allows it to act both as a truss and a brace. It resists downforce from the top, but it also ties the legs together and provides lateral support as well. I will put plywood shelves down there eventually as well.

As far as my work, I do the bulk of my work for a large brewery hence all the stainless. I do general welding and fabrication, one off and repair machining, and sanitary piping.

 

[wmrra13]

The 4" being at the bottom allows it to act both as a truss and a brace. It resists downforce from the top, but it also ties the legs together and provides lateral support as well. I will put plywood shelves down there eventually as well.

Thanks for the quick reply.

I understand the need to tie the legs together and have a shelf but my point is, why not use the 4" directly under the table top and use the 2 1/2" on the bottom? Couldn't you then eliminate the vertical center supports and have a full, unobstructed shelf?

Again, that table is absolutely magnificent - Huge envy!

 

[dr_clyde]

Thanks for the quick reply.

I understand the need to tie the legs together and have a shelf but my point is, why not use the 4" directly under the table top and use the 2 1/2" on the bottom? Couldn't you then eliminate the vertical center supports and have a full, unobstructed shelf?

Again, that table is absolutely magnificent - Huge envy!

I think I would've wanted the supports either way. Both scenarios probably would've worked. I guess I don't have a reason other than to better distribute weight.

 

[dr_clyde]

Also, duh :tard:, the 2-1/2 on the top acts as a hitch receiver. I don't know why I blanked on that.

 

[sqznby]

Very nice. I really like the design and finished product.
You are quite the craftsman.

Great job on building an amazing table

 

[Mohawk Dave]

Any updates?

I've been modifying my puny 4' x 4' x 3/8" welding table and taking ques from you. (I did the 4.5" Metabo finish on the top....dunno if you've heard of that one. lol)

I got a medical crash cart off CL and put under it to hold lay out tools, consumables, my new ON/OFF magnets (which are worth every penny!) and my helmet, gloves etc.

Made some brackets to hold the longer German Bessey F Clamps, adding a receiver in the next few days. I have several Hougens as well, with weldon shank (12,000 series) and converting one to jacobs for the small stuff.

Need to drill holes in the table and modify some cheapy HF F Clamps for quick and dirty hold downs.

I just picked up an older Dayton swing light thing with the magnifying glass built in, so I think I'm going to build a bracket that will set down in the table holes. I'm thinking that would be good for detailed tiny TIG stuff. (What is the correct name for the holes anyway?)

I recently bought the HF Magnetic MIG gun holder. I was going to buy the Strong Hand one, but for $8 at HF, I don't know why I waited so long. Highly recommend to all of GJ.

I also think I'm going to drill a hole in the back corner where a vertical "post" can drop in with a bracket on it to hold my helmet vs laying it on the table during the work session. I got a Jackson BH3 and I'm not trying to let it roll over or get knocked around.

I guess all that's left is a cup holder. lol.

Awesome work, please more pics. Can we have some pics of other cool modifies you've done around the shop?

And sorry to hijack, just like discussing this stuff with you guys.

 

[Duker]

Any updates?

I've been modifying my puny 4' x 4' x 3/8" welding table and taking ques from you. (I did the 4.5" Metabo finish on the top....dunno if you've heard of that one. lol)

I got a medical crash cart off CL and put under it to hold lay out tools, consumables, my new ON/OFF magnets (which are worth every penny!) and my helmet, gloves etc.

Made some brackets to hold the longer German Bessey F Clamps, adding a receiver in the next few days. I have several Hougens as well, with weldon shank (12,000 series) and converting one to jacobs for the small stuff.

Need to drill holes in the table and modify some cheapy HF F Clamps for quick and dirty hold downs.

I just picked up an older Dayton swing light thing with the magnifying glass built in, so I think I'm going to build a bracket that will set down in the table holes. I'm thinking that would be good for detailed tiny TIG stuff. (What is the correct name for the holes anyway?)

I recently bought the HF Magnetic MIG gun holder. I was going to buy the Strong Hand one, but for $8 at HF, I don't know why I waited so long. Highly recommend to all of GJ.

I also think I'm going to drill a hole in the back corner where a vertical "post" can drop in with a bracket on it to hold my helmet vs laying it on the table during the work session. I got a Jackson BH3 and I'm not trying to let it roll over or get knocked around.

I guess all that's left is a cup holder. lol.

Awesome work, please more pics. Can we have some pics of other cool modifies you've done around the shop?

And sorry to hijack, just like discussing this stuff with you guys.

^^^^ Pics or it didn't happen!! Sounds like interesting mods


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[dr_clyde]

I don't know if I've done anything different since the last photos on the table. I can snap a few shots of how it sits now when I get back to the shop.

I need to cut the plywood shelves for the underside of the base yet.

For my shop goings on, I started a shop projects thread in this section somewhere.

 

[Mohawk Dave]

Right on. I just followed you on instagram. Plenty of pics you got up there.

So ?....When you get weld splatter on the table, how do you go about removing it? Surely not a flap disc to the blanchard ground. Did I miss this Q&A earlier?

 

[dr_clyde]

No, you didn't miss an earlier Q/A lol. I don't get much spatter, I spray the table with anti-spatter before any mig welding and I'm very deliberate about my gun angle and so on. If I do get any weld berries I knock them off with the end of a file and hit the spot with the abrasive stone I use on the mill tables.

 

[Iroc-Z]

Maybe I missed it but how did you secure the top to the table?

 

[dr_clyde]

Maybe I missed it but how did you secure the top to the table?

I didn't show it, so I can see how you might miss it.

I drilled and tapped the top to accept 5/8" SHCS. In post #33 I show making the brackets.

 

[Iroc-Z]

Got it. That makes sense. You probably don't need that much clamping force due to the top being so heavy.

 

[hoho98925]

That's an incredibly **** table. I see this in my future....thanks.
What did that top cost? Gotta start a table fund now!

 

[dr_clyde]

That's an incredibly **** table. I see this in my future....thanks.
What did that top cost? Gotta start a table fund now!

Top was around $2000 delivered.

 

[Chateau Slate 66]

Bringing this back to the top because I will be stealing a LOT of these ideas.

Thanks for posting!

 

[amlee]

What type of wheel are you using for tungsten grinding?