niss
Well-known member
Just curious if anyone here tremclads or uses some other rust-paint on their punches & chisels to keep the red stuff away?
Do you paint your punches?
- Thread starter niss
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fatfillup
Well-known member
No, never had the issue. Do you work in a wet environment? Do you use your punches and chiesels a lot? Not a high use tool for me. Can't see a problem with doing it.
nate379
Banned
I used to at work because it was darn near the end of the world of a tool had a tiny bit of rust on it.
billymade
Well-known member
I've noticed the new Western Forge OEM Craftsman punches are painted red; while the ones I bought n the 90s were oxide black. I have also seen Craftsman chrome plated punches possibly made in the 70s, I've picked up at the flea market.
-B-
Well-known member
I keep mine oiled and the old ones I find in the basement most have sat for decades with no treatment.
Major Ramifications
Well-known member
The first set I bought at Sears were chrome plated. This would have been in the late '80's, probably, possibly even early '90's.
To the O.P., no I don't paint any of my punches or chisels, not even the black oxide ones. The Dasco set we have at work came painted blue.
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My Allen set is black oxide which rusts when you look at 'em wrong. So they have to be oiled before I put them away. My Craftsman set is plated, so no real rust problems. I wouldn't paint a striking tool, as you'll break that paint "seal" the first time you use them. (And I wouldn't paint a pin punch, as it would just add thickness to a measured surface).
i as needed redress the face and points of my punches and chisels for safety. i then put i light coat of black paint on them. it keeps them looking new and free from rust.i have not had a problem with paint flying off as very little paint gets on the face or point. also the slight amount gets rubbed off of pin punches with use. my bench shop class taught me how dangerous a mushroomed tool is so i try to keep them in shape. nothing worse looking or dangerous than a drawer of rusty, abused and mushroomed punches and chisels.
someone will pipe in on exact specs as my limited training was more than a couple years ago. every manufacturer has a little diffferant style but i try to grind the face at about 45 degree to the shaft by slowly rotating against a bench grinder. be sure to keep the tool cool with an occasional dip in water. punch points are just ground flat to remove any chips or deformities. chisel points are almost always 45 degrees but should be kept even lenghs. center punches the same i think. i don't remember the ***** punch angle. someone help me out on specs.
Safe-ending chisels is a good safety practice and good practice if you have oxy-acetyene in your shop. The striking end is usually relief ground reducing the dia. by 1/16", forming a 1/4" long shoulder. Bronze rod is then deposited on that shoulder adding 1/8" to that reduced dia. The complete proceedure is outlined in "Linde Welding and Cutting Manual" (1949) Pg. 74 if you happen to have access to an old library. I could probably post that page if there is interest.
And yes, I have painted many of my punch sets, just the last bit as you would a rake or shovel handle. Makes it easier to get the set together and to retrieve your tools when working in a group effort.
Edit-- instructions added.
And yes, I have painted many of my punch sets, just the last bit as you would a rake or shovel handle. Makes it easier to get the set together and to retrieve your tools when working in a group effort.
Edit-- instructions added.
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senlow
Well-known member
Wow, that is something I've never seen before. It's an interesting idea.
Jared
Well-known member
Just use a benchgrinder, if there really bad you can use a cut off saw.