My DIY electric attic lift

[12vwiz]

Hello guys,
I just completed building my attic basket with the exception of painting the bottom (the part that mates to the ceiling.

Today I hooked it up and gave it a test run. I was please with the results and wanted to show you guys. I'm using a harbor freight 440 pound electrical hoist with a few pulleys and cable wire.

I do not know how to weld so I found a shelving kit from Lowes for less than $100 that I cut up to modified for my needs. I found it was cheaper than buying raw steel. At this time I'm using the original hand held motor controller to operate it but my plans are to build a custom one with auto stop in both directions.

Please check my YouTube link below and give me your opinion on it. Thanks in advance

 

[nine4gmc]

I love it!!

 

[12vwiz]

Thanks!

While watching the video if you notice the loading platform is level with the attic floor and the basket bottom is flush with the ceiling. But when it's on the floor the basket platform is only 2 inches off floor . I accomplish this by making the two pieces separate buy useing springs. The loading platform and bottom of basket can expand over 8 inches. It is also insulated.

If there's any interest I'll post more details.

 

[MushCreek]

Cool idea! I need to build a lift for the loft of my barn. Although I plan to put in stairs, I want to store heavier items, such as my antique outboard motors, that are too heavy to lug up and down the stairs. I have an HF 1500lb. 120V winch that should move anything I want to (200 lbs. max).

 

[creativecars]

Great idea and execution.

Be sure your rafters are up to handling all the extra weight you can now easily load up there.

 

[Richard D]

Pretty slick. Nice production value for a Youtube video!

 

[xcon]

Nice work

 

[Denwood]

Ha...loving the epic music. It's very cool setup. Can't tell, but did you install limit switches...or do you just manage the lift stops manually?

 

[rlitman]

One suggestion. I would come up with a way to use the safety cutoff in the hoist to automatically stop the lift at the top.

What I did with something similar I came up with, was run the cable through a block of wood that just fits a hole in the middle of the block. Then I put something on the cable that catches on the block, so when the lift is where I want it to stop, the block gets pulled by the cable into the stop switch.

That "something" on the cable took a little thinking, because it needs to run through the pulleys without snagging. I used a 4" length of galvanized steel wire (18 gauge or so). I untwisted the cable, and stuck the wire straight through, and then twisted each half around the cable. Like this, it's not going anywhere, and only interferes with the block (what it was meant to do).

 

[12vwiz]

Thanks all for the kind words.

Be sure your rafters are up to handling all the extra weight you can now easily load up there.

excellent warning. I was definitely concerned about that. When I cut the hole I doubled up on my ceiling joist to reinforce it. I also took the load placed on the rafters and re distributed it back to the ceiling joist top-plate and center beam.

Pretty slick. Nice production value for a Youtube video!

yes, this is actually my second YouTube post ever.

Can't tell, but did you install limit switches...or do you just manage the lift stops manually?

when I made this video (Sunday) I just completed building the basket itself, so there were no limit switches on it. I plan on building a dual controller, one for up top in attic and one for the garage area. I will also include limit switches for both up and down travel.

One suggestion. I would come up with a way to use the safety cutoff in the hoist to automatically stop the lift at the top.

What I did with something similar I came up with, was run the cable through a block of wood that just fits a hole in the middle of the block. Then I put something on the cable that catches on the block, so when the lift is where I want it to stop, the block gets pulled by the cable into the stop switch.

That "something" on the cable took a little thinking, because it needs to run through the pulleys without snagging. I used a 4" length of galvanized steel wire (18 gauge or so). I untwisted the cable, and stuck the wire straight through, and then twisted each half around the cable. Like this, it's not going anywhere, and only interferes with the block (what it was meant to do).

if you have pictures I would love to see them. I was thinking something similar and definitely welcome other ideas. My original thoughts were to use a hole saw to cut two round pieces of wood similar to the size of the original weight that was supplied with the hoist. I added over 20 feet of cable with my pulley configuration.

Thanks again guys for all your input!

BTW: at the beginning and end of video it says Jerry and Blaine's man cave. I'm Jerry and my eight-year-old son is Blaine. he was responsible for shooting the bulk of the video.

 

[Corvette Cave]

Nice youtube production. Garage News
Oh and nice job on the lift

 

[Radix2]

Sweet!

 

[Fishplate]

One comment...it looks like the support for the lift pulleys is attached to the same side of the rafters as the winch. If they were attached tot eh far side, you would be pulling the supports into the rafters instead of away from them. But it may be secure enough without worrying about that...

 

[MagicMarker]

Very cool

 

[404]

Very nice. I suggest a 2x4 or a 1x4 nailed and maybe glued to the underside of all the rafters between the winch and the pulley block. This will distribute the force over many rafters, and if you can make a tie in to the pulley block, it will remove the twisting force on the rafters.

I don't know if this really matters, (will the one rafter by the hoist twist enough to break the roofing plywood or push up the nails???) but I am Mr Overkill on these things, which is why I never finish anything.. Hmmm...

 

[Premium08]

That's some cool stuff. Well done

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 

[TonkaJoe]

Well now...that is pretty badass!

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

 

[jmarkwolf]

I've heard those type of lifts referred to as a "bosuns chair".

 

[flhtbb]

Very cool, Thanks for sharing

 

[dfiler2]

Very nice, I did something like it only it is an open lift to a loft. Here is a link to stops that can be attached to the cable. One question I have is doubling the cable off of the winch, I have the same winch on mine and you cut the speed in half and double the weight the way you have it hooked up. My thought was I wanted the speed and I would never be putting anything very heavy up there anyway. It does look like it is pretty fast anyway, I guess I'm just impatient.

 

[12vwiz]

WOW, I'm getting some really great input. Thanks all!

One comment...it looks like the support for the lift pulleys is attached to the same side of the rafters as the winch. If they were attached tot eh far side, you would be pulling the supports into the rafters instead of away from them. But it may be secure enough without worrying about that...

I agree, thanks for the keen eye. I wasn't sure how it was all going to come together. Now that I have a actual working lift I can see how the overall system works in respect to the load and will revisit while making my limit switches. I spent the bulk of my effort on the design of basket. I felt it was the one hurdle I had to overcome with the budget I set myself.

Very nice. I suggest a 2x4 or a 1x4 nailed and maybe glued to the underside of all the rafters between the winch and the pulley block. This will distribute the force over many rafters, and if you can make a tie in to the pulley block, it will remove the twisting force on the rafters.

I don't know if this really matters, (will the one rafter by the hoist twist enough to break the roofing plywood or push up the nails???) but I am Mr Overkill on these things, which is why I never finish anything.. Hmmm...

I'm a firm believer in overkill as well. I'm not seeing the "twist" because I have it mounted to the ceiling joist as well. However I do see that distributing the horizontal load to multiple points can only be better. I really appreciate your thoughts.

One question I have is doubling the cable off of the winch, I have the same winch on mine and you cut the speed in half and double the weight the way you have it hooked up. My thought was I wanted the speed and I would never be putting anything very heavy up there anyway. It does look like it is pretty fast anyway, I guess I'm just impatient.

Thanks for the link and input!
Yes, dubling the cable was just to slow it down. The added wight increase was not a factor because I too will use commonsense when loading. But my thinking was: if it moves slower it should give the basket adequate time to stabilize prior to entering the attic opening. Inturn not relying on the basket itself hitting the opening to align. Plus the speeds not bad and I'm sure you will agree, it's a lot faster than manhandling items up-and-down the stairs.

Guys,
I will try to get my switches installed this weekend and post a updated video. Pleas keep the comments and input coming. I need the motivation

 

[pablo94sc]

I'll have to check back on this thread after the holidays. I have been wanting to do something like this for my attic to replace the manual setup I have now.

 

[oldcpecdr]

What holds the basket and assembly up if there is a failure in the hoist ?

When it is in the up position are you relying on the Harbor Freight hoist to keep

it in the up position or do you have some manual locks that aren't shown.

Mike B

 

[NUTTSGT]

Using the shelving unit for a basket was a slick idea.

 

[12vwiz]

What holds the basket and assembly up if there is a failure in the hoist ?

If failure occurs while in operation it will crash to the floor.

When it is in the up position are you relying on the Harbor Freight hoist to keep it in the up position or do you have some manual locks that aren't shown.

I just installed it last Sunday and have been relying solely on hoist. With safety top priority I've been thinking about installing some type of electric solenoid lock when it's not in use. I do not like the idea of a safety chain that would require me to climb up the stairs to physically lock/unlock it to use. What I would like to have is a power key switch when in the on position engages solenoid to unlock. Maybe a green and red LED indicator at Key switch to indicate status. Definitely open to ideas.

Using the shelving unit for a basket was a slick idea.

Thanks! Price and weight were deciding factors. Depending on basket size you could get all the steel needed between $60 and $100. Plus you will have the shelving material left over for another project.

Here's an example:
http://m.lowes.com/pd/edsal-72-in-H...Tier-Steel-Freestanding-Shelving-Unit/1000527

 

[oldcpecdr]

I use lifting straps instead of a "basket".. and fabricated a trap door for
second floor traffic. The sliding beam is to move items over the floor to offload.
Basket is cool idea... this might be a little safer...

Mike B

 

[12vwiz]

Dang, from the looks of pictures that a second floor not attic....nice.

You do some serious lifting where am just thinking plastic totes and fishing rods. LOL