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Crimp on terminals plus tape ok?

pendragon1998

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I needed to rewire a ceiling fan to my house wiring tonight. I was removing a bad remote control module and going back to the regular pull-chain. I didn't have a wire nut handy, so I used a pair of crimp on quick connect terminals. Because that leaves an uninsulated segment, I wrapped it with a quality electrical tape. Is that sufficient for safety, or should I have used shrink tubing (or something else)?

This style:
100pcs-22-16AWG-RED-Female-Insulated-font-b-Quick-b-font-font-b-Disconnects-b-font.jpg
 
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Syberia

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I would use a wire nut. Some of those crimp terminals are rated for 120v, though many are 12v only, but that still just doesn't sit well with me. Tape will ultimately get gooey and fall off; I only ever really trust it for low-voltage (automotive) uses.
 
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Aceman

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Are the terminals U/L listed for 120v?

I can't say I've ever looked at a package of crimp connectors for a voltage rating. I've got a whole Klein case with assorted terminals connectors too. Now you have me curious...

Just looked it up, it seems the 3M and T&B styles I've been using are 600V.:)

But, if the terminals he installed are now completely covered with 600v tape, I don't think I'd get too worked up about it regardless of the rating.
 
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pendragon1998

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I am only going to have the fan installed for 6 to 8 months, then I am replacing it with a lamp. I don't see anywhere whether the nylon insulated terminals are rated for 120, but I have used them before in my bench grinder with no problem, fwiw. The tape was super 33 .
 
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rlitman

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I would use a wire nut. Some of those crimp terminals are rated for 120v, though many are 12v only, but that still just doesn't sit well with me. Tape will ultimately get gooey and fall off; I only ever really trust it for low-voltage (automotive) uses.

The terminals you buy at HD are all rated for line voltage (they actually carry decent stuff). It's not printed on each terminal (though they do have identification stampings), but it is on the packaging. I would not trust crimp terminals from HF...

That being said, if I were doing this, I would have bought the ones that come fully insulated. No tape necessary in that case.

images


As for tape going gooey, I've never seen that in Scotch 88 (my preference), 33+ (also good), or 35 tapes (same as the 33+, but in colors other than black).
Other premium tape brands may be good too (I forget what I bought at an HD in the Denver area once, but it seemed as good as 88).
 

nadogail

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Ring lugs with nut and bolt connecting them together have been accepted for both marine and industrial work.

I like to connect motor and generator leads as follows:

Scotch Fill, covered with cambric tape and then a layer of 33+ or Scotch 88 insulates and protects the splice.
 

theoldwizard1

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As for tape going gooey, I've never seen that in Scotch 88 (my preference), 33+ (also good), or 35 tapes (same as the 33+, but in colors other than black).
Other premium tape brands may be good too (I forget what I bought at an HD in the Denver area once, but it seemed as good as 88).

I was referring to the cheap stuff (10 for a $1). The plastic isn't too bad but the adhesive is terrible.
 

APEowner

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I'm more concerned about whether or not they're designed for solid wire than the voltage rating.. Most aren't and an improper crimp on solid wire can overheat and cause a fire no matter how much or what kind of tape you've got on there.
 
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