The VISES of Garage Journal

[drivesitfar]

NJ: thanks for the kudos and best of luck with the tests. i'm heading to my daughter's graduation this weekend.

Jake: i think we both forgot the members that don't put a location where they live in their GJ profile. i'm pretty sure they live on the internet, but not for certain because they might be aliens.

JZ: check out all the Cadets Balane has posted if you want ideas for colors or see how one with BLO or that bright Snap On green looks. nice find

 

[CRSINMICH]

CRSINMICH: Quite the opposite - "studying" for finals.

NNJ: Ah yes, finals. That would explain the thoroughness of your response. As I remember, my apartment was never so clean, my plants never so well tended, my correspondence was never so up to date as they were during FINALS. Somehow those took precedence over sitting down with a book. Good luck!

And what are you doing reading this? Hit those books young man!

 

[noisenormajean]

NNJ: Ah yes, finals. That would explain the thoroughness of your response. As I remember, my apartment was never so clean, my plants never so well tended, my correspondence was never so up to date as they were during FINALS. Somehow those took precedence over sitting down with a book. Good luck!

And what are you doing reading this? Hit those books young man!

CRS: Not soo young.. I'm getting a post-bac in a related field. Still, I should probably study more.

 

[BassProCamaro97]

In my normal searches I found a Monarch in Norhtern Indiana if any of you are from around there. If it was closer I would check it out.

https://southbend.craigslist.org/tls/5332368000.html

 

[drivesitfar]

Bass: the dynamic and the static both have damage to them (missing chunks), but it would be a good parts vise and probably still work.

 

[BassProCamaro97]

Ah missed that. The pics were pretty crappy.

 

[drivesitfar]

Bass: maybe it's because i'd like a few more Monarch vises and i know since they are about 100 years old and made by Prentiss to look for some issues. look at the top of the back of the static where an imitation anvil is on some vises and you'll see it doesn't go straight across and looks like it has a bite out of it. also the dynamic in the back shouldn't have a huge hole missing. just saying even my old eyes could see them, but like i said i've seen a broken vise before.

keep looking and hope you find one you like for yourself too.

 

[mali]

Few words about FPiU Bison-Bial S.A.

FPiU means (with no Polish characters) Fabryka Przyrzadow i Uchwytow

history
http://www.bison-bial.com/history

in logo you can see zubr (bison)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/European_bison

European bisons live for instance in Bialowieza National Park
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Białowieża_National_Park

Bial is a part from the city name Bialystok
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Białystok

You can be sure that Bison produces high quality vises
http://www.bison-bial.com/products

Here is a link to local adverts with vises in Poland (vise - imadło) something like Craigslist
http://olx.pl/oferty/q-imadło/

by the way
maybe some of you tested Polish vodka zubrowka in English known as bison grass vodka

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Can anybody tell me about this vise? I know it is a Chas. Parker, but not sure of the model number, and cannot tell if it is all there, I can't tell if its missing a swivel base, or if that is a bolt sticking through for mounting it. I was told it has 4" jaws and opens to 4.5". Also, if you could give me an estimate on it's value. Thanks

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Looks like a Parker 88 1/2 It swiveled on a plate and bolt going through the bench with a big wing nut on the bottom. It is missing the pipe jaws as usual and the mounting. It is pre 1900 and the jaws are not replaceable. Hard to say on price ?? $25 - $50 It might be better than it looks.

 

[BassProCamaro97]

Thanks.
I've actually done pretty good this month picking up a pretty abused Parker and a pretty clean Wilton. Not bad for my first two vises. I'd like to grab a Monarch at some point. This thread hasn't helped me though since I keep looking for extras.

Well either my eyes or my attention span are to blame. I'll bet it was the attention span...

 

[JZiggy]

Continuing the discussion about Paramo vises, here is an Eron 150 vise which is almost the exact same casting as the Paramo #6. I think Eron is Japanese? There are some subtle differences like the cover over the back of the slide

eBay Link

 

[CRSINMICH]

Bass: maybe it's because i'd like a few more Monarch vises and i know since they are about 100 years old and made by Prentiss to look for some issues. .

Drives: few more Monarchs?, a FEW more Monarchs??, a FEW MORE Monarchs??? Oh man, if only I was able to write such a phrase.

Seriously, your post brought up something I have noticed and I wondered if you had any ideas about it. You pointed out that the rear of the dynamic jaw has a corner missing. I've seen a lot of vises that have a corner of the slide missing. I've got a Parker like that myself. It's not hard to imagine dropping the vise or just the dynamic on a corner of the slide and having it break. What I think I have noticed is that more times than not it is that same corner not the one on the opposite side. I have seen some like that but most of the breaks I have seen are on that same side. Have you noticed anything like that? Any idea why that side may break more often?

"a few more Monarchs" he says

 

[Shiftless]

Drives: few more Monarchs?, a FEW more Monarchs??, a FEW MORE Monarchs??? Oh man, if only I was able to write such a phrase.

Seriously, your post brought up something I have noticed and I wondered if you had any ideas about it. You pointed out that the rear of the dynamic jaw has a corner missing. I've seen a lot of vises that have a corner of the slide missing. I've got a Parker like that myself. It's not hard to imagine dropping the vise or just the dynamic on a corner of the slide and having it break. What I think I have noticed is that more times than not it is that same corner not the one on the opposite side. I have seen some like that but most of the breaks I have seen are on that same side. Have you noticed anything like that? Any idea why that side may break more often?

"a few more Monarchs" he says

CRS:
Yes, it's true! Drives' collection (hoard?) of vises is enviable indeed. But Prentiss is a good brand. Even though my personal collection (hoard) only numbers 10, three of them are Prentiss. (But no Monarchs as of now)

 

[CRSINMICH]

mali: Thanks for the information. I followed all the links. Now I wish I had bought that vise. I haven't tried that vodka but my brother-in-law is Polish. I'll ask him about it. For some reason I knew about the bison and the park. Thanks again.

 

[thursday]

noisenormajean: thanks for the detective work.

 

[anndel]

Definitely got inspiration from a lot of the vises here. Picked up some good tips while searching through the threads.

What did you use to clean it? Looks like glass bead blasting, it's so clean.

 

[oldldh]

OLDIE: i haven't asked in a while and hoping your ticker and your health are in as good of shape as your personality. YES??

As one ages, pieces of your once, magnificent body start to wear out...

At least, that appears to be what's happening to mine...

I've got some brilliant Doctors, and they are taking real good care of me...

I've decided that I'm going to "Hang in there, like a rusty fish hook"!!!...For a long while, yet...

(The strange part is, now I've got different medicos for each different part of me...Pump guy/Pipe guy/Sugar guy/Allergy guy/Eye guy/Joint guy/etc --- When I was younger, I had "A" Doctor that cured everything --- Not so much any more...)

Many thanks for your good wishes, they are much appreciated...

 

[sz0k30]

Few words about FPiU Bison-Bial S.A.

FPiU means (with no Polish characters) Fabryka Przyrzadow i Uchwytow

I wish I knew how to get the hooks under the a or over the o's.

 

[jipps]

Few words about FPiU Bison-Bial S.A.

You can be sure that Bison produces high quality vises
http://www.bison-bial.com/products

by the way
maybe some of you tested Polish vodka zubrowka in English known as bison grass vodka

Those vices look interesting... have seen one or two on eBay in the UK.

 

[trijeff]

Have any of you gents used 2K Epoxy Primer for restores/flips? I've been using a self-etching primer but some reading I did indicated that might not be the best bet. The epoxy primer is about 6X more cost than other types of primer, wondering if it's worth it? If you don't use either epoxy or self-etching, what type do you use? Do you use a primer sealer at all? Is a primer even necessary at all if I am doing multiple color (3+) and clear (2+) coats?

I haven't been using primer. I've been using BLO after electrolysis as a primer and to stop flash rusting. Actually the last vise I finished, I think I just wire wheeled, then wiped down with tsp substitute before painting. The last time I used primer was on an aluminum housing for a bench grinder. Not sure if my process is correct or not but it seems to work. I know some of the rustoleum, krylon colormaster and hammerite spray paints don't require separate primer. I think the regular rustoleum spray can paint recommends primer though.

Come on guys! Its a vise not 1 $20,000.00 paint job on a custom car.

I never bother with primer personally.

I tried doing one without primer and had just so-so results as compared to with primer. Glad it works for you guys and wish it did for me, too, but there were a couple of issues. First, I had to use a LOT of paint, the total was at least 1.5X more than the total amount of primer + paint than I have used in the past. Also, I had quite a few surface issues, mainly pinholes (which I have not had at all with primer jobs), even though I prepared the surface just as I always have. Those issues aside, I personally found the quality of the final finish to be more "thin" looking for lack of a better description.

I use a Rustoleum engine enamel and it says a primer is recommended, especially with bare metal, so I am going back to that route. I've always wanted to try painting color right over BLO but am just too darn nervous because of my mindset that a surface should be free of all grease/oil for the best adhesion. I know I shouldn't because I see the great results that Bagged, Fretters and others have going that route, but I guess I just have some sort of mental block. When all is said and done I just wish I had tried the primer-less experiment on something a little smaller than a C3

 

[drivesitfar]

TJ: maybe you used more paint because the C3 is a 200 POUND VISE. you've done such a good job on the other vises you've restored i don't blame you for sticking to what works. any pictures of the C3 or the Prentiss 98 to post? PLEASE?? PRETTY PLEASE??

CRS: i'm deep in the RABBIT HOLE and one vise or two or three of a brand is only enough if that's all they made in different models. YOU'LL SEE and you are well on your way so maybe you should read and memorize your own warnings TEACHER.

OLDIE: good to know you are a well medicated and running machine. i'm not looking to the day when i need to put Dr. appointments ahead of going to run look at and buy old tools so hope you stick around because i might even paint one red. cheers old buddy.

 

[Mark in Indiana]

Mali,
Glad to see another Polish vise enthusiast. I have a Bison & FPU vise and a Poland brand lathe chuck. I wish I had more.
Toolmex is an American distributor. There customer service is great.

 

[trijeff]

TJ: maybe you used more paint because the C3 is a 200 POUND VISE. you've done such a good job on the other vises you've restored i don't blame you for sticking to what works. any pictures of the C3 or the Prentiss 98 to post? PLEASE?? PRETTY PLEASE??

Good point, Drives! But alas, even after the third coat on the C3 I was still getting pinholes so I am cutting my losses and starting over on that one. Any guess as to what color it is going to be??? I've never seen a C3 in Snap On green so will be interesting to see what it sells for ... was really teetering between SO green and the near-factory Verde Green for this one but decided to roll the dice. We'll see!! Will definitely post pictures once complete.

As for the P98, it is about 90% done but still on the back burner ... need to finish up the C3 and three C1s I have (or at least two of them, may keep one) to clear up some much needed garage space. So no new pictures for now. Mainly need to decide if I am going to paint it or keep it BLO (likely) and also finish up the stand. The one thing I am really nervous about doing is fitting the new jaws from KMS - they do not align perfectly up and down (due to Prentiss, not KMS), so I need to angle grind a bit off the top of one and bottom of the other and I do not want to bungle it up. I may just use the old, repaired jaws (now smooth-faced) for the time being until I have the time/confidence to properly complete that task.



That is 34" and 8.5 lbs of jaws right there!

 

[Evergreentree]

Hey all. My client today gave me a vise that her father, and ?grandfather? (She said) as a holiday gift. I didn't think it'd be old enough for her grandfather...
Nothing to special, but a complete unabused Little Giant 5207. I like the wrench on it, Parker like. Any info?

Also, I'm trying to figure out how to fab up semi permanent leather jaw covers for my Wilton 60. It's going to be used strictly for holding my chainsaws, so I figured leather would be perfect. I thought of removing the steel jaws, making some wooden jaws, and glueing the leather to that. Any other ideas?

 

[topop101]

I tried doing one without primer and had just so-so results as compared to with primer. Glad it works for you guys and wish it did for me, too, but there were a couple of issues. First, I had to use a LOT of paint, the total was at least 1.5X more than the total amount of primer + paint than I have used in the past. Also, I had quite a few surface issues, mainly pinholes (which I have not had at all with primer jobs), even though I prepared the surface just as I always have. Those issues aside, I personally found the quality of the final finish to be more "thin" looking for lack of a better description.

I use a Rustoleum engine enamel and it says a primer is recommended, especially with bare metal, so I am going back to that route. I've always wanted to try painting color right over BLO but am just too darn nervous because of my mindset that a surface should be free of all grease/oil for the best adhesion. I know I shouldn't because I see the great results that Bagged, Fretters and others have going that route, but I guess I just have some sort of mental block. When all is said and done I just wish I had tried the primer-less experiment on something a little smaller than a C3

Trijeff For me it really depends on what paint or paints I use. Different paints require different primers or no primers. If I use epoxy paint , I use an epoxy primer. Most hammered finished require no primer. Other enamels I use the self etching .

 

[CRSINMICH]

ANYONE: If you remember this ugly Milwaukee Tools vise that I redid so that it was a spiffed up ugly vise then you may be surprised at the vise picture my brother sent me. I was.

EDIT: Sorry, the picture is too small to see details but it is the same ugly vise painted red but with a Snap On decal.

 

[CRSINMICH]

Drives: I wanted to show you that I had Monarchs too. Raised them myself.

 

[diagnosis]

My new to me York 150 Vise (150mm = 6 in Jaws)

Hello Vise fans . . .

Picked this fellow up today; The ad simply said, "Heavy Duty Shop Vise". It's a York 150 (jaws are 150mm wide = 6 inches). If the lore on these is close to being correct some view these Yorks as being pre-Wiltons in origin, but I'm sure there's opinions on that claim. Lots to read on the subject anyway.

Thank you,

Matthew A.

Ah! you got it! I messaged and waited for a reply, with no response. It was a good price at the listed $100, but at $50, good score!

 

[CRSINMICH]

Evergreentree: I picked up one of those Little Giants recently too. I had to pay $5 for mine though. I quite like it and I'm going to keep it as part of my 30's 40's 50's homeowners vise sub-collection. I got a Scout to go with it. Keeping my eyes peeled for a Pennypincher.

 

[diagnosis]

Also, visiting my brother in laws shop, and took a few pictures of his bench vice, and Orillia,
ON. based RAE vise, 4" jaws. Most RAE's I've seen were made in Hamilton, and resemble a heavier Record/Woden.

 

[organ]

JZ:
Nice find!
Looks EXACTLY like the "taskmaster" vise I bought, cleaned up and gave away to my sister in law's husband who had no vise. Imagine that...a grown man with a 2 car garage, a workbench, and no vise at all.

Those men are called women...

 

[CRSINMICH]

Also, visiting my brother in laws shop, and took a few pictures of his bench vice, and Orillia,
ON. based RAE vise, 4" jaws. Most RAE's I've seen were made in Hamilton, and resemble a heavier Record/Woden.

diagnosis: My Canadian geography is a little shaky but isn't Orillia near Hamilton? I know they are in the same province but it's a BIG province. RAE is on my "Got to Find One" list. The best I could do was an RAE pipe vise so far. What do you suppose the wide slot in the slide is for? Access to the stop collar?

 

[diagnosis]

In the vast wilderness of Canada, it is relatively near at about 185kms away, only a 2 hour drive or so! Lately there have been a lot of RAE vises popping up on the local classifieds, or I'm just paying way too much attention lately, that could be it!
My assumption for the slot is a lubrication point for the main screw. I'll take a better look next time I'm over

 

[Nuts]

Hey all. My client today gave me a vise that her father, and ?grandfather? (She said) as a holiday gift. I didn't think it'd be old enough for her grandfather...
Nothing to special, but a complete unabused Little Giant 5207. I like the wrench on it, Parker like. Any info?

Also, I'm trying to figure out how to fab up semi permanent leather jaw covers for my Wilton 60. It's going to be used strictly for holding my chainsaws, so I figured leather would be perfect. I thought of removing the steel jaws, making some wooden jaws, and glueing the leather to that. Any other ideas?

Soak a chunk of leather in hot water and wrap one around each jaw tower. Wrap small rope or twine around them binding them to shape until dry. Makes a pretty snug fit that can be removed with a good tug.


Nuts

 

[anndel]

Dave: that's an interesting vice and a name I wasn't aware of. it looks like an old Parker, but it's had a hard life. it looks like maybe your static jaw broke so it was either repaired or replaced with weld or braze material. the handle isn't original so maybe it bent when the jaw broke. in any case those big swivel rear jaw vises are worth saving especially those with rare names.

welcome to the forum and hope you stick around. if you do want to do some restoration work just take a ton of pictures and post them on the vise repair 101 thread and if you need help just ask and we'll try to if we can.

good luck

Organ: those piles of gym weight plates used to change weekly, but i'm ready if a member might want to make a vise and needs some steel. i don't have the talent or any of the factory or machines to do so, but i do have the love for steel. i used to have up to 10,000 or 20,000 pounds most any given day in case a client(s) needed some for their gym. not the case anymore because China ships stuff so cheap and some guys lifting weights say "it's just weight" not knowing if a 45 pound plate weighs 35 or 50 or if it will crack soon.

Riley: i think you should start a thread with just BIG DAMN STEEL pictures. that bucket makes those huge links look like snow chains for a truck. nice

Anndel: just saw your post and you are welcome. post pictures of your vise and several of them and we'll try to give you as much information as you want or links to look up so you can do your own search. good luck and should be a great vise if stamped made in USA

It's stamped "Made in USA" along with an upside down 4J and date coded 121066. Wilton appears to be painted as you can see. Thanks all for solving this Scooby Doo mystery. I also plan to refinish it - usual wire brush/sand, primer and hammered paint, I'm thinking blue or red. I don't have access to a glass bead blaster anymore and if I did, boom.

 

[drivesitfar]

Nuts: will just adding water to the leather make it hard and form to the shape you want it in? or do you need to add anything else?

Anndel: it's a light duty Wilton, but a good vise if you don't abuse it or use it for more than it's rated for. one tip i always like to give new vise owners especially if the vise has an open screw is when you are filing or cutting something in the jaws you might want to put an oily rag or even a paper towel over the screw to keep the debris and junk from going in and out of the vise nut.

CRS: i don't collect or buy those kind of monarchs, but they are fun to watch if one happens to fly by. i've got about 5 hummingbirds that fly next to me when i work out in my yard and when they decide to zip by my ear i know it.

Diag: that Rae vise is cool and a little bigger than most of them that i've seen. the access hole for the main screw on it's side is something you don't see very often either.

 

[anndel]

Nuts: will just adding water to the leather make it hard and form to the shape you want it in? or do you need to add anything else?

Anndel: it's a light duty Wilton, but a good vise if you don't abuse it or use it for more than it's rated for. one tip i always like to give new vise owners especially if the vise has an open screw is when you are filing or cutting something in the jaws you might want to put an oily rag or even a paper towel over the screw to keep the debris and junk from going in and out of the vise nut.

CRS: i don't collect or buy those kind of monarchs, but they are fun to watch if one happens to fly by. i've got about 5 hummingbirds that fly next to me when i work out in my yard and when they decide to zip by my ear i know it.

Diag: that Rae vise is cool and a little bigger than most of them that i've seen. the access hole for the main screw on it's side is something you don't see very often either.

Thanks very much. I don't do machining or banging on in, maybe cutting bolts, gluing something, etc., but will cover it to minimize getting filings on the screw. For soldering wires/cables I use a PanaVise.

 

[Nuts]

Nuts: will just adding water to the leather make it hard and form to the shape you want it in? or do you need to add anything else?


Drives, Sorry I should have been more specific. You will need to have full grain saddle leather, not a split grain suede. The type of leather you would need to build a holster, which is what I do occasionally. Run the leather under hot water for a minute or so soaking both sides, makes it very pliable but when dried keeps its shape. It will wet form to the vise, or handgun in my case.

Reminds me that I'll have a couple of more vises to fit for soft faces when my shop space is finished. Sorry no pics as everything is in storage.

Nuts

 

[drivesitfar]

Nuts: id like to see a leather pair of vise jaws made like that. Good luck on the shop organizing too or are you building one?

 

[Shiftless]

Drives:
I recently acquired some leather from a drum maker. It might be too thin but you can have some to try if you want it. Soak it in water overnight should make it soft enough to work into the shape you want. Dry it is stiff.
Do you have access to exotic hardwoods? Seems a shame to wrap leather around Oak or something so pedestrian.