T1-11 debris/fire traps behind trim boards

[jmarkwolf]

The interior walls in my new detached garage/shop are covered with T1-11, and sealed with a minwax product. I've trimmed it out with rough sawn spruce 1-by-6 & 1-by-4. Looks nice.

I admit, however, that I didn't anticipate the little debris and fire traps formed between the T1-11 grooves and the horizontal trim boards at the floor (see photo).

Ordinarily, I think it won't be an issue in most places around the 28ft by 30ft room, however the hot oily chips thrown from my Bridgeport milling machine, and sparks from my pedestal grinder, and dust from my DeWalt compund miter saw, are a different story. They could get trapped in the grooves and smolder.

I will have my local HVAC shop fold the bottom edges of some 4ft x 8ft galvanized sheet, like ledger board drip edge flashing, which will keep any debris out from behind the bottom trim boards. But this only moves the hazard to the top edge of the same galvanized sheet.

Anyone have some slick ideas for blocking off the T1-11 groves short of caulking?

 

[maxpower_hd]

What about ripping some scrap stock in your table saw and tapping them down into the grooves? The could be cut to fit pretty tight and no need for caulk. Although you may still want to run a bead around the perimeter.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Short of cualking, nope, that would have been my recommendation.

 

[finn]

Caulking seems like an easier and obvious solution.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

I have T1-11 inside my garage. I stopped it about 6 inches above the floor, so there is no trim board. That was 2006. No problems so far.

My foundation comes one block above the floor level, so what you see looking at my interior walls is concrete block exposed in that 6-inch gap.

My concern was getting water and such back under the siding and rotting out the edge.
Phil

 

[Fishplate]

What's wrong with caulk? And if you cut the top edge of your trim board at an angle, not much would collect on top.

 

[DenisG]

There's intumescent caulk, but it's usually used with drywall or other fire-resistant barriers.

 

[CKS1955]

I have T1-11 inside my garage. I stopped it about 6 inches above the floor, so there is no trim board. That was 2006. No problems so far.

My foundation comes one block above the floor level, so what you see looking at my interior walls is concrete block exposed in that 6-inch gap...
Phil

Ditto. I did the same in my shop.

Jay

 

[tcianci]

How about stop worrying?

 

[rsnip988]

I'd use Fire resistant Caulk personally, as it's pretty cheap and not too difficult to install...
However a thick paint with fire retarder added would plug up the tiny gap I would think... at least by a second coat should be pretty sealed..

 

[matt_i]

I don't worry so much about swarf from a milling machine unless its throwing sparks...and on a Bridgeport your edge tool is shot at that point.

However..mig welding, stick welding, torch cutting, and using the metabo 6" cutoff disk are on the "do not do inside a wood trimmed/wood framed building" list. Would do in a pinch but after exercising great care. Tig welding doesn't produce a lot of rolling spatter. Howver things considered "hot work" are better done outside.

 

[kaymccampbell]

How about stop worrying?

Naaah. I've been to this well before and it tastes bad. Smells like smoke, too. I have experienced the smoldering **** caught behind lose trim thing and after I hosed it down I vowed I'd never go there again. I ripped the fire resistant drywall at 6 inches and put concrete board all the way around the shop. Eventually there will be a thin tile baseboard over it to look nice, but in the meantime sparks have quit a struggle to find a place to hide and grow.

 

[404]

Naaah. I've been to this well before and it tastes bad. Smells like smoke, too. I have experienced the smoldering **** caught behind lose trim thing and after I hosed it down I vowed I'd never go there again. I ripped the fire resistant drywall at 6 inches and put concrete board all the way around the shop. Eventually there will be a thin tile baseboard over it to look nice, but in the meantime sparks have quit a struggle to find a place to hide and grow.

Excellent!

 

[cat06]

Naaah. I've been to this well before and it tastes bad. Smells like smoke, too. I have experienced the smoldering **** caught behind lose trim thing and after I hosed it down I vowed I'd never go there again. I ripped the fire resistant drywall at 6 inches and put concrete board all the way around the shop. Eventually there will be a thin tile baseboard over it to look nice, but in the meantime sparks have quit a struggle to find a place to hide and grow.

Kinda have to laugh at this, worried about fire , but installed wood

Anyway, mark the top of the baseboard on the t1 siding, then remove the trim base and cut the siding along the line and remove, then install the base so that the siding sits on top of it, flush would be best, then anything hitting the wall and falling would not go behind or rest on the base board

 

[rsnip988]

Naaah. I've been to this well before and it tastes bad. Smells like smoke, too. I have experienced the smoldering **** caught behind lose trim thing and after I hosed it down I vowed I'd never go there again. I ripped the fire resistant drywall at 6 inches and put concrete board all the way around the shop. Eventually there will be a thin tile baseboard over it to look nice, but in the meantime sparks have quit a struggle to find a place to hide and grow.

I am concerned about this as well, I made an enclosed "lean-to"/carport (25'x14') to use as a blacksmithing shed/welding room when it's cold or windy outside. I was trying to decide between Concrete board (did you mean Hardie boards) or corrugated metal siding for the interior walls. that way the sparks/slag/red hot steel getting dropped won't set any walls alight... Or just line the endangered area walls with nailed up welding blankets?
The forge is on a jutted out slab and fully bricked along the short wall in the back, so as to disarm any of the "safety police" we have running around here, Using tried and true designs from smithy's standing for hundred's of years I feel pretty safe with the Forge part, it's all of the flying debris from grinding/hammering & welding that you can't keep track of...