Good digital multimeter that won't break the bank?

[Bennylava]

Hi all. Thought I'd stop buy and ask what you guys think is a good digital multimeter, that won't break the bank. My recent electrical issues with a certain car have highlighted the shortcomings of my current multimeter. Which, is a $12 cheapo from Wal-Mart.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/GE-Digital-Multimeter-17-Range-6-Function-Yellow/17117739

But hey, up until this point, it has served its purpose just fine. I've used it for everything. Verifying voltage, checking resistance, checking continuity, you name it. But when I went to check for a 10amp (or under) power draw, it failed. It just gives no reading. It says 0.00 amp draw, and all modern cars will have something, usually under 50 milliamps.

This is of course with the probe plugged into the right hole.

It said 0.00 power draw, when running the ground from the battery, through the meter. Try as I might I couldn't get it to take a reading, and plugging the probe into the hole was difficult. As opposed to the other probe port, it was difficult to get it to go in. ... Waiting for all the incoming jokes..

So anyway, which one should I get, if I don't want to pay hundreds of dollars for something like a Fluke brand one? Especially when some of the more expensive ones, seem to be lacking certain functionality. Some of the expensive flukes seem to have no setting for resistance or continuity. For that price, no thank you.

 

[WhiskeyRanger]

Does the Fluke 116 cover your needs?

 

[SantaAna12]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JQ4O2U/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Showkey]

Ben........sounds like the internal fuse protection is blown in old meter. This fuse only protects the amp circuit.

 

[Brownsfan]

Klein MM2000. In my opinion the best sub $100 Multimeter you can buy. http://m.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tool...02521275?keyword=Klein+mm2000&searchtype=text

I have had one for the last 4 years. Used daily and still holding up.

 

[Derek1387]

In so I can watch this....need one myself for general use.

 

[FigureItOut]

I have a Fluke 115 at around $130 that will give you just about any functionality the average person could need and you get 20 amps current reading. Extech also makes a good product. I also have an Owon B35 which is not I my favorite meter for several reasons but it has Bluetooth, which comes in incredibly handy. I think I paid around $50 for it.

Klein like Brownsfan said and Greenlee would both be reasonable choices as well. I too wonder though if you couldn't just replace the fuse in yours. I think a cheap meter is just fine occasional use.

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[Can I try?]

Ben........sounds like the internal fuse protection is blown in old meter. This fuse only protects the amp circuit.

^^^This.

Before you go dropping money on a new meter, did you test your current meter?

It's easy to check. Set the meter up for resistance. Put the probe of the test lead that is plugged into the volts/ohms/mA port into the 10A current port. Make sure the probe tip is contacting the metal connection point in the port. If you read high resistance, than the fuse is blown. I would expect a 10A circuit with a good fuse to read less than 2 ohms.

It's very easy to mistakenly blow the current fuse in a DMM. If you try to check voltage while the meter is set up for current then that fuse will pop. You may not necessarily hear it pop, either. It's so easy to do that even pros do it occasionally. This is why Fluke starting designing their meters to beep if the the test leads are set up for current, but the dial is set to voltage.

 

[oldtools]

If you cannot afford a Fluke, look into Brymen.

 

[BMack37]

Check the fuse...then I'd still recommend buying a Fluke, even if you buy a used Fluke from a pawn shop for under $100 it will outlive and be more accurate than anything even close in price and often even more expensive. I've bought other brands and if you use multimeters everyday you can see the shortcomings in the other offerings. The refresh rate is my biggest pet peeve but I've seen meters read dead shorts when there isn't a short or unable to read a dead short completely. Get a Fluke and don't worry about whether your meter is right or not, it will save you time and frustration...and even retail cost over the 20+ years you'll get out of a Fluke is a bargain.

 

[Ilikeike]

Of Course Fluke,which I have at work,
but cheap for home,I went to Home Depot around the corner and picked up the "Klien" multimeter. I'm building and completely rewiring and modifying the wire harness of a classic car, the klein works fine.
HD has two versions,both under $100. one is true RMS like linked above,one is not.

 

[theoldwizard1]

The most important feature of a DMM in the $20-$30 range is having a rubber boot to protect it from drops/falls. There are a lot of them out there in this price range AND LOWER !

#2 feature is an audible continuity tester.

#3 feature is a 1.0-1.5V battery tester (voltage under a modest load).

Sears usually has a Craftsman model on sale for less than $20. Plenty adequate.

 

[Rubiman14]

Like others I don't think the Klein can be beat for under $100. I beat the hell out of that thing and it's still ticking right along at work. The next step up I'd grab a Fluke 117 for about $150. I tend to use that more than my Fluke 87V.

 

[alpinewhite]

Fluke

 

[bcradio]

It said 0.00 power draw, when running the ground from the battery, through the meter.

Were you trying to check current from positive to ground on your battery? If so, your fuse will need to be replaced.

 

[ddawg16]

I have a Fluke 179....great meter.

I also have the HF multimeter. I think I paid $5. I use it all the time. Makes a great little meter to keep in the house.

 

[Showkey]

If the fuse is not blown and the old meter is toast ......then a DC inductive ammeter is the tool of choice for parasitic draw testing. There many choices in a wide price range that will get the job done.

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[Danglerb]

Craftsman 82369 if my memory is working, I have one, its great, not a Fluke, but does what I need down to about 10ma on the DC clamp which is a world easier to use on current and safer.

 

[Bennylava]

Does the Fluke 116 cover your needs?

It seems that it would.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JQ4O2U/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I like the price, and I like the amount of good reviews and the rating. Not sure I like the korean writing on the box though lol

Before you go dropping money on a new meter, did you test your current meter?

I'll check it out, but this would be the very first time I even tried to use the 10amp function. So I'm not sure what would have blown the fuse... and I'd kind of like to have something more reliable on hand. Somebody mentioned "occasional use", but I'd say that mine is more along the lines of frequent use. So it would be nice to have a good quality one that I can count on. I don't think the cheapest one walmart sells is ever going to be able to fit that bill.

I'm bidding on an Open Box fluke on ebay, hopefully I'll win. It does have all the desired functions. Anyone know what the story is with the Fluke numbering system? Its a 117. Are higher numbers better? They have a whole boatload of different models.

 

[theoldwizard1]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JQ4O2U/?tag=atomicindus08-20

This Mastech MS8261 got a very poor review by this YouTube reviewer.

 

[Mechanical Noise]

I don't think these inexpensive meters have a fuse on the 10A range. I have an identical looking yellow meter, no fuse for 10A.

50 ma should still give some indication, so you might have a bigger problem.

Easy test is with a AA cell. Maybe an amp, more or less.

 

[Danglerb]

Half your budget or more should go to good test leads, they are far more likely the weak link with any modern meter.

Fluke numbers relate to function, not quality.

DC current clamp is essential for diagnostic work on cars.

 

[Fedwrench]

Fluke is the preferred DMM for most techs and automotive OEMs but, there are other excellent DMMs out there.
This new Powerprobe unit is gaining popularity at work but, it may seem expensive compare to your $12 Wal Mart model but, it isn't for a quality unit.
http://www.tooltopia.com/power-probe-ppdmm.aspx

Also consider DMMs from PDI, ESI, Lang, and Extech.

Good luck in your budget quest,

 

[ClineWrench]

I echo what Brownsfan said. - Klein MM 2000. Great multimeter that doesn't break the bank.

Plus it comes with decent leads.

 

[millstream]

My thoughts:
Sounds like Fluke would be overkill for your described needs. But if you don't want to consider your multimeter as a throw-away disposable every year or so, then go with the quality of a fluke or similar.
Also, probes are often the weak link. Recommend keeping a new pair of probes on hand. When you start getting flaky readings; e.g. you short the two probes together (in DC Ohms setting) and you get higher resistance, or fluctuating readings, try your new probes. If that remedies the issue then throw the bad probes out and immediately by a new set to keep on hand.
And try to take care of your probes too.
Agree with checking for blown fuse for your DC current issue.

 

[stg454]

I'm. Dry happy with my Fluke. Started out with a Craftsman but the battery holder broke.

 

[Stuey]

Extech, and Craftsman rebranded Extech meters offer great bang for the buck.

 

[Bennylava]

Fluke numbers relate to function, not quality.

DC current clamp is essential for diagnostic work on cars.

Can you expand a little upon these two please?

 

[Can I try?]

Regarding current clamps:

In order to check current with a traditional-style DMM it must be connected in series with the circuit. So, a location in the circuit must be opened, and the probes of the meter then connected to these two ends. Thus, the meter will be in series with the circuit. The location you open can be a termination point, connector, or, although not recommended, you can cut a wire and splice it back together when your done.

A clamp meter simplifies this process. A single conductor of the circuit is placed in the the clamp of the meter in order to read current. This can greatly speed up diagnostic work, as you don't have to take time to open up the circuit. It also reduces the chance for human error as you are not disconnecting and reconnecting the circuit.

A downside of clamp meters is accuracy, especially with less expensive models. Your current reading can vary depending on where within the clamp the conductor lies. If slight variations in current readings (tenths to hundredths of amps) will not be important in your work, then this variation is not important. On the other hand, a traditional DMM should give you a level, unvarying reading as it will be connected in series in the circuit, unless of course the current demand of the circuit is changing.

 

[Ainsley]

I have this AC/DC clamp meter from Mastech that I've been happy with:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017WRH7O/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I got it solely for the DC clamp as I already have a greenlee meter and a couple fluke meters at work.

 

[Can I try?]

Regarding Fluke's model numbering:

They number their meters in "series" based on functionality.

So, for example, my meter of choice for work is their 20 series. I started with a used 25 from eBay. When I could afford it, I upgraded to a new 28ii. The 25 and 28ii are basically the same as far as functionality. The 28ii just offers some improvements over the 25.

So, if you decide you want a Fluke you have to first decide which series you want. Then from there you can decide if you want to by an older, used model from that series to save some money, or if you want to buy the newest and latest model from the series.

 

[zkling]

What is your top end budget? I'd recommend a new or used Fluke 87 later series, as it will do everything one could ever possibly need for "general work".

Fluke 27fm is a basic, yet very accurate and rugged meter but does not have cap, frequency or back light.

Some of the craftsman pro/extech meters are nice for the money new, as well as the Kleins. Even the used bluepoint meters can be a good value.

 

[knobby]

For around the house handyman type use a tester rather than a multimeter might fit the bill. I have a fluke t5-1000 that i use for most electrical testing/diagnostics. take a look at the fluke t5 series.

 

[SantaAna12]

This Mastech MS8261 got a very poor review by this YouTube reviewer.

He sure doesn't. I will check some readings vs. my Simpson.
Thanks for that Wizard.
BTW: I looked, but did not see, the criteria for his video testing? Did you see it by any chance?

 

[Bennylava]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Learning a lot from this thread.

I lost the bid on the 117, but it seems the 8x series is their automotive one. At least according to their website. And as someone said, the 8x series is their all around, general series, so that's probably a good "starter" fluke for me. I like the Fluke 88, but its expensive! I think the top of my budget is probably $70. There will come a day when I'm ready to spend a couple hundred, but that's not right now. I know its a tall order to get a fluke for that price, but I'll be patient and see if I can pick up a used 80 series on ebay. Might be able to get a used one on ebay for that price.

I've been watching some youtube vids on multimeters, and the cheap ones are really just junk. You really do need to throw them away after about 1 year of use. I don't like that. I like to keep my tools for ever and ever! Well, if possible, of course.

 

[Rubiman14]

I'd really try to track down another 117. It's an awesome little meter that works great for around the house projects as well. Like I said earlier, I use it more often than my 87V...mostly because of the size difference.

 

[mikebaker1129]

There is only 1 brand of meter Fluke.
They have some basic and advanced models,depends on what your needs are ?

 

[pedrodagr8]

Flukes are VERY nice (I own several, clearing out a few), but they are much like Snap-On. They are high quality and reliable offerings, but you can find better value and quality if you look elsewhere (or even from Fluke's international offerings).

The best value meter I can recommend is the Amprobe AM-510. Amprobe is a Fluke subsidiary and it shows in the quality. Even though the meter is actually manufactured by Uni-T, Fluke clearly had their hand in things and it shows. The input protection is top notch. UL-listed Cat III 600V with the large ceramic HBC/HRC fuses, multiple MOVs and PTCs, etc. This meter is damn safe and comes with LOADS of fetures, like a backlight, FAST continuity, non-contact voltage, mA and uA, etc. You get all of this for $40-50. Do not "upgrade" to the AM-520 or 530, they use a different control IC that is very lack luster.

Fluke 10x series is also a very good value but a bit more expensive. The 101 is VERY robust but it doesn't have a current function. The 107 is more expensive but nice.

Above $100 there is the Brymen BM257S, this meter is VERY full featured and nice. Brymen is the OEM for many of the higher-end Greenlee multimeters including their top of the line DM-860A (which is a rebadge of the Brymen BM869S). There are also high quality used Flukes. That being said, you can get high quality and a lot of features from companies like Brymen and Keysight.

I used to recommend UNi-T meters as a good value but in general they, like companies like Mastech, just cut too many corners and it affects reliability and quality. When you can get the AM-510 for $40-50 it just doesn't make sense. Also, typically Craftsman, Southwire and Extech EX series are all low quality meters. They are all made by the same company, CEM China, much like Uni-T and Mastech they are not known for their quality (though Extech EX series is by far the worst of the bunch).

AVOID anything made by Vichy/Vichi/Victor/Vichey, these are all the same company and you can tell because their model numbers use the formal VCxx, ie VC98, VC97+, etc. They are complete and utter garbage.

 

[BMack37]

You can probably find an old Fluke 87(The big grey one) at a pawn shop in your area and you'll probably pay less than $50. It will almost always be paired with crappy leads...but Flukes will keep going for forever if you take care of it. They also stay accurate for a long time. My current meter is going on 12 years, never been re-calibrated and is dead-on accurate with the newer or recently calibrated meters from others at my shop...and I literally use my meter 5 out of 7 days of every week but holidays. We have four non-Flukes at the shop, some are meters that retail for $100-150 and not a single one of us trust any of them because all four have been wrong at some point and have cost us time/money.

Also, I always keep at least two extra sets of leads on hand at any given point. When the leads start acting flaky or look like they're getting worn they get repurposed, generally with a clip of some sort on the end. I like using a clip for ground when I can, it frees up a hand. Or I'll use the banana plug for use with the oscilloscope or any other of my misc testing instruments.

 

[FigureItOut]

Hi all. Thought I'd stop buy and ask what you guys think is a good digital multimeter, that won't break the bank. My recent electrical issues with a certain car have highlighted the shortcomings of my current multimeter. Which, is a $12 cheapo from Wal-Mart.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/GE-Digital-Multimeter-17-Range-6-Function-Yellow/17117739

But hey, up until this point, it has served its purpose just fine. I've used it for everything. Verifying voltage, checking resistance, checking continuity, you name it. But when I went to check for a 10amp (or under) power draw, it failed. It just gives no reading. It says 0.00 amp draw, and all modern cars will have something, usually under 50 milliamps.

This is of course with the probe plugged into the right hole. [emoji14]123

It said 0.00 power draw, when running the ground from the battery, through the meter. Try as I might I couldn't get it to take a reading, and plugging the probe into the hole was difficult. As opposed to the other probe port, it was difficult to get it to go in. ... Waiting for all the incoming jokes..

So anyway, which one should I get, if I don't want to pay hundreds of dollars for something like a Fluke brand one? Especially when some of the more expensive ones, seem to be lacking certain functionality. Some of the expensive flukes seem to have no setting for resistance or continuity. For that price, no thank you.

OP, it's a long shot, but what's your location? I know of a barely used Fluke 115 in your price range.

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