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1 High Value Cordless Impact Wrench for all Drive Sizes

Bleugrass

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Dec 15, 2015
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So If I wanted an all-in-one cordless impact wrench, to use with 1/4, 3/8 & 1/2 in. drives; should I get a 3/8" impact and use adapters, since its a step away from 1/4 & 1/2? Or get a 1/2" with adapters for more torque?
For mid-price can't really beat the snap-on with sep on value there, only a little more than IR costs for 3/8. 3/8 Snap on 320$, 3/8 IR about 270$.
But looking at the IR 1/2 in. cordless impact wrench, for 360$
http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemD...jPv-iDo4YTgf15Z-f2eaKxhASkdGZxXf9PRoCulDw_wcB

it has a lot more torque than the snap on 1/2 offers. Also theres no difference between snap on's torque in 18 volt 1/2 and 3/8. Shouldn't 1/2 be stronger?
https://store.snapon.com/CT8810A-Se...8V-Compact-Lithium-Impact-Wrench-P760541.aspx

https://store.snapon.com/CT8815A-Se...MonsterLithium-Battery-1-2-Drive-P805838.aspx

Now on low-price the Craftsman C3 heavy duty 1/2" is 160$ and has 300ft-lbs.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-c3-1...ct-wrench-kit/p-00945195000P?TecPara=159_4555
They might be enough torque for me for now, but does anyone have this tool? Does it actually have the torque it says, and will it last through a year of semi-pro use? ( I'm in school for small engine repair, but I want something I can use to work on cars a bit too.)
So in everybody's opinion, whats the best way for me to go here? Best value impact wrench?
 
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morgantm

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It really depends on your needs. For example the Milwaukee high torque 1/2" is rated up to 700 lb/ft but will not fit in all the places the 3/8" impact that is rated up to 210 lb/ft but is much more powerful. So its really boils down to a power/size debate for your use scenario.

In my opinion I would always rather have more power than I need but that power is of no use if you can't get it to the bolt. Adapters will also decrease the total power so thats something to keep in mind.

The Milwaukee line of cordless impacts has great reviews as well so I would include those in your comparison between the Snap-On and IR lines.

None of your links worked by the way.
 
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Bleugrass

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It really depends on your needs. For example the Milwaukee high torque 1/2" is rated up to 700 lb/ft but will not fit in all the places the 3/8" impact that is rated up to 210 lb/ft but is much more powerful. So its really boils down to a power/size debate for your use scenario.

In my opinion I would always rather have more power than I need but that power is of no use if you can't get it to the bolt. Adapters will also decrease the total power so thats something to keep in mind.

The Milwaukee line of cordless impacts has great reviews as well so I would include those in your comparison between the Snap-On and IR lines.

None of your links worked by the way.

Thanks I think I fixed the links. Since I'm working on small engines I'll probably be in tight places a lot, I guess I'll go with a 3/8 impact.
 

stikman56

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Thanks I think I fixed the links. Since I'm working on small engines I'll probably be in tight places a lot, I guess I'll go with a 3/8 impact.

Yep, 1/2" is too big for that stuff, won't fit in a lot of spots. In that case I'd get a very strong 3/8" so it will get done most of what you need to.
 
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Bleugrass

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Yep, 1/2" is too big for that stuff, won't fit in a lot of spots. In that case I'd get a very strong 3/8" so it will get done most of what you need to.

Will do. The Milwaukee's specs are better than IR, and cheaper at 260$ and 200ft-lbs. Great warranty too.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...rench-Compact-Battery-Kit-2654-22CT/203807309

Now its just down to Milwaukee or snap on. If its well worth the 60$ price difference on SEP, I'll have to get it. I'll check it out more in a few hours.
Thanks for the help.
 

MrGiggles

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If you'll just be whipping covers off small engines like in your other thread, I would consider an M12 3/8 Fuel impact. It's under 200 bucks, and has a 5 year warranty.

You will still likely need an air impact for things like blade nuts.

The M18 impact has a lot more power, but it's really not necessary for small engine work, and the big battery adds a lot of bulk.

Additionally, Snap-On batteries are stupidly expensive compared to M12 batteries which are ~25 bucks each.
 
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CNGsaves

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^ ^ ^This. For small engine repair, get the smaller more nimble cordless impact.

There is absolutely no need for max power 1/2" Snappy or IR.
 
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Bleugrass

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If you'll just be whipping covers off small engines like in your other thread, I would consider an M12 3/8 Fuel impact. It's under 200 bucks, and has a 5 year warranty.

You will still likely need an air impact for things like blade nuts.

The M18 impact has a lot more power, but it's really not necessary for small engine work, and the big battery adds a lot of bulk.

Additionally, Snap-On batteries are stupidly expensive compared to M12 batteries which are ~25 bucks each.

But the M12 only has about 125ft-lbs torque. I also need it to be able to work on cars, and small engines to include tractors and zero-turn mowers. I am getting the 3/8, for the small size. Snap on's has 30lbs more torque, but whichever of the M18 or the snap is more compact is gonna be my choice. Although the M18 is brushless.
Why get an air impact, if I could get the 1/2" IR with just as much torque? Price?
 

MrGiggles

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But the M12 only has about 125ft-lbs torque. I also need it to be able to work on cars, and small engines to include tractors and zero-turn mowers. I am getting the 3/8, for the small size. Snap on's has 30lbs more torque, but whichever of the M18 or the snap is more compact is gonna be my choice. Although the M18 is brushless.
Why get an air impact, if I could get the 1/2" IR with just as much torque? Price?

There is no do-all impact.

If you primarily want maneuverability, M12 is the answer. If you want more torque at the expense of maneuverability, go M18. Aside from the big battery, the M18 is not much larger than the M12, so it will still fit most places the M12 will. You still won't bust lug nuts or blade nuts with it though.

It's just my preference, but when tearing down a chainsaw or pulling the shrouds off a small engine, I would rather use a lighter more nimble tool. If I run into any fasteners bigger than 9/16, the air tools come out.

BTW, all of the Fuel impacts are brushless, M12 or M18.

I don't know what specs you read, but no cordless impact out there can touch an IR 2235 or similar, if you get enough air to it.
 

jipps

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High value means different things to different people, so this might not be to your taste, but:

Makita DTD146 + Milwaukee Shockwave adapters in 1/4, 3/8 & 1/4 sizes.


Does everything that I need, and to be honest I sometimes find it surprising when guys on here are talking about their battery impact guns not breaking wheel bolts - this thing always shifted the lugs off my Land Rover Ninety, and it's a nice neat size gun at a great price :)
 

TN_Mopar

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Dec 6, 2015
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I just bought the Milwaukee M18 fuel set
1/2 impact, 3/8 Impact, flashlight, two 5.0 Li-On batteries, charger, and free Impact Drill
I got an amazing price $599 with free shipping
They are amazing
I gave my mac tools set to my son
There is a 5 year warranty and 3 years on the batteries
I picked up a barely used 1/4 Impact, battery, and charger for $100

Milwaukee are the best going currently
I have even read some grumbling from the snap-on guys on other forums
they are way more powerful than my old Mac's were

I'd go Milwaukee all over again in a heartbeat
 

ttpete

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There is absolutely no way you are going to have a universal impact wrench that can do everything from 1/4 to 1/2 inch drive.

If you're going to be working with small engines, a 1/4" hex drive impact will be the one you'll use most. It's what I use most for motorcycle work. It'll handle screws as well as small bolts. A 3/8" would be handy for the larger stuff. I wouldn't worry about the heavy work on automotive right now, you're not making a living by it.
 

MacMcMacmac

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000346463330_ca.jpg



Bosch IDH182-02 18-Volt



You can fit the 1/4" drive down inside the 1/2" drive snout. The power output is three way selectable.
 
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Bleugrass

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There is no do-all impact.


I don't know what specs you read, but no cordless impact out there can touch an IR 2235 or similar, if you get enough air to it.

The specs I read off IR's site say the 2235 has a max of 1,350 ft-lbs torque, and the cordless IR W7150 has a max of 1,100 ft-lbs. Pretty close IMO.
The main thing I wanna do with the impact is remove nuts quickly on 1/4, 3/8 & 1/2in drives. I think I'll start with a 3/8 cordless, move up to a 1/2 when I need the torque and go from there. Most likely be a 3/4 in. air impact with a monster torque at that point, but thats too down the road to think about now.
 
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Bleugrass

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I'm going with the M12 Fuel 12-Volt Brushless 3/8 in. Impact Wrench Kit for now. Not much torque but it'll fit into a lot more places. And 185$ sounds like my budget. With the GRE1128A adapter for 7$, 3/8 female to 1/4 male.
Most likely later on Ill go with the M18 Fuel 18-Volt Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 1/2 in. High Torque Impact Wrench with Friction Ring Kit, or maybe the IR because its cheaper. But Milwaukee seems like the best choice for impact wrenches to me. Killer warranty too.
 
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the1nonlyjl

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M12 v too weak. Budget friendly would be craftsman. Very nice compact size not too big not too small. There are two drives available 3/8 and 1/2


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

alpaca

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Mar 13, 2014
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The 1/2" high torque isn't practical for small stuff.

Honestly if I could only get one I'd probably go for the m18 or m12 3/8" fuel impact wrench or m18 fuel impact driver. As far as the m12/m18 impact wrench go in 3/8" they are pretty damned close to each other in power I've tested them side by side. The m18 is a bit shorter but has larger batteries.
 

Skin

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There is zero need to get a 1/2" drive impact for small engine work. More power is nice but not at the expense of a lot more weight and substantially larger size. The only thing small engine related that I ever used 1/2" on is really stubborn blade bolts (rare) and in conjunction with pullers. 12V screw guns and newer 3/8" impacts with an output of 100-120 foot pounds will be your work-horses. An 18V 3/8 is still going to be required for things like blade bolts though.

8815 is just the 8810 with a 1/2" anvil. Everything else is the same. Torque will be just a little higher due to the better transfer of power (larger the anvil and meatier the sockets the harder the blows from the same output-but you lose accessability). The Snap-On 1/2" high torque impact wrench is the 8850.
 
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rice rocket

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The torque rating is changed w/ the new Metabo LiHD batteries; they are a new chemistry that are capable of more output under full load. It's in the first bit of the review article.


In the case of the Metabo SSW 18 LXT 400 BL Impact Wrench, LiHD batteries took the torque rating from 295 foot pounds to 325.
 
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Bleugrass

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There is zero need to get a 1/2" drive impact for small engine work. More power is nice but not at the expense of a lot more weight and substantially larger size. The only thing small engine related that I ever used 1/2" on is really stubborn blade bolts (rare) and in conjunction with pullers. 12V screw guns and newer 3/8" impacts with an output of 100-120 foot pounds will be your work-horses. An 18V 3/8 is still going to be required for things like blade bolts though.

8815 is just the 8810 with a 1/2" anvil. Everything else is the same. Torque will be just a little higher due to the better transfer of power (larger the anvil and meatier the sockets the harder the blows from the same output-but you lose accessability). The Snap-On 1/2" high torque impact wrench is the 8850.

Sweet thanks for clearing that up. I wonder why the Snap on high torque 1/2" is 600 bs torque, while the milwaukee and IR have 1,100 ft-lbs. Snap on is falling behind on the impacts.
 
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Bleugrass

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So I decided to go with lower torque and higher maneuverability for now. Later on I'll get something with really high torque.

Got a question: I hear when you use socket adapters on impact wrenches that you lose torque. How true is this and how much torque are we actually losing? Specifically, using this wrench: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...-4-in-Hex-Impact-Driver-Kit-2453-22/203807396
With these adapters: http://www.sears.com/grey-pneumatic...-SPM2408808914?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1.
Thanks buddies.
 

Skin

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Sweet thanks for clearing that up. I wonder why the Snap on high torque 1/2" is 600 bs torque, while the milwaukee and IR have 1,100 ft-lbs. Snap on is falling behind on the impacts.

Break-away torque is a marking number, wouldn't pay too much attention to it. 8850 will stand with the best, the issue is its insane price and terrible warranty.

By the way get some ear protection. Cordless stuff is deafening when impacting.

So I decided to go with lower torque and higher maneuverability for now. Later on I'll get something with really high torque.

Got a question: I hear when you use socket adapters on impact wrenches that you lose torque. How true is this and how much torque are we actually losing? Specifically, using this wrench: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...-4-in-Hex-Impact-Driver-Kit-2453-22/203807396
With these adapters: http://www.sears.com/grey-pneumatic...-SPM2408808914?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1.
Thanks buddies.

You'd need testing for specific numbers but everything stuck on an impact, including the socket, takes power away. Impacts hammer, right? Well everything stuck to the anvil (the drive end) acts like a spring absorbing blows between the drive and the fastener. Some energy is always lost bouncing whatever you have connected back and fourth during each strike of the hammer or clutch mechanism. Softer alloys, the thinner the socket, the longer the socket, the longer the extension, every connection etc... all play a part and will rob power.
 
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jerseykat1

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You'd need testing for specific numbers but everything stuck on an impact, including the socket, takes power away. Impacts hammer, right? Well everything stuck to the anvil (the drive end) acts like a spring absorbing blows between the drive and the fastener. Some energy is always lost bouncing whatever you have connected back and fourth during each strike of the hammer or clutch mechanism. Softer alloys, the thinner the socket, the longer the socket, the longer the extension, every connection etc... all play a part and will rob power.

Extensions are the worst at taking your torque away. use them sparingly. a torque stick is simply a calibrated extension.
 

Voi

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I hear when you use socket adapters on impact wrenches that you lose torque. How true is this and how much torque are we actually losing? Specifically, using this wrench:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...-4-in-Hex-Impact-Driver-Kit-2453-22/203807396

That is an impact driver, not an impact wrench.

In addition to torque loss from adapters, many have argued that a driver will have its torque biased towards tightening while a wrench will have its torque biased towards loosening. So regardless of adapters an impact wrench will be better and loosening stubborn fasteners than a driver with similar torque ratings.

Not trying to talk you out of that driver, I think with its ability to run nut drivers, torx bits, etc. as well as sockets it would be very convenient for engine work.

But the 2nd gen M18 Fuel 3/8" (2754) impact wrench is actually a tenth of an inch shorter and will be considerably shorter when running sockets compared to the driver in your link.

In a perfect world I'd have both but if my impact driver died today I'd go buy the 2754 and a couple of the adapters MrGiggles linked to. I'd hopefully get it with a dual voltage charger and add the M12 driver in the future.

I say this as in the past year or so I've been using my driver more for socket work than I have with bits. And it seems when I am using it with sockets there is more of a premium for overall compactness than there is when driving screws. So the wrench with an adapter wins for overall convenience for me, at least now that our house remodel is over.
 
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Bleugrass

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Thanks for all the comments, got some really good answers lately. The m12 3/8 impact wrench won me over, since I'll need more torque with 3/8 than with hex or 1/4 anyways.
I gotta wonder, with the Milwaukee shockwave series, it says that it absorbs 3x more torque ( for the purpose of not stripping fasteners), but essentially that means I'm losing that much torque?
Should I get a regular impact adapter to 1/4" drive, or shockwave? And do I actually need much torque when using bit drivers? Or will this work for everything in engine work?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...-32-4052/206145274?keyword=shockwave+46+piece
Good deal btw

For the 3/8female to 1/4 male I'll probably go with GP's (GRE1128A). Cheaper than Shockwave, but lemme know if I'm wrong about Milwaukee's Shockwave
 
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ttpete

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Thanks for all the comments, got some really good answers lately. The m12 3/8 impact wrench won me over, since I'll need more torque with 3/8 than with hex or 1/4 anyways.
I gotta wonder, with the Milwaukee shockwave series, it says that it absorbs 3x more torque ( for the purpose of not stripping fasteners), but essentially that means I'm losing that much torque?
Should I get a regular impact adapter to 1/4" drive, or shockwave? And do I actually need much torque when using bit drivers? Or will this work for everything in engine work?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...-32-4052/206145274?keyword=shockwave+46+piece
Good deal btw

For the 3/8female to 1/4 male I'll probably go with GP's (GRE1128A). Cheaper than Shockwave, but lemme know if I'm wrong about Milwaukee's Shockwave

The way I work with mine for small fasteners is to run them down just snug, then manually twist the gun to final torque. The gear reduction is enough to keep the bit stationary when doing this.
 

ImStricken06

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for many years i got by with the milwaukee 3/8th, and it did an amazing job. i upgraded to their high-torque 1/2 (1200 / 700 lbs ft). the 1/2 wont fit, were the 3/8th will. also the 1/2 is VERY heavy compared to the 3/8ths.

roominess vs power. thats your decision.
 

67King

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I have an M12 1/4", 3/8", and an 18V 1/2". I use the M12's nearly daily (as a hobbyist/DIYer). I only really use the 1/2" one for wheels, and maybe an occasional suspension related job.
 
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