Mark in Indiana
Well-known member
For my needs either works fine. I use aluminum because I had plenty of stock to make soft jaws. I also use strips of conveyor belt material for softer material.
The VISES of Garage Journal
- Thread starter mjozefow
- Start date
For my needs either works fine. I use aluminum because I had plenty of stock to make soft jaws. I also use strips of conveyor belt material for softer material.
Evergreentree
Well-known member
Bagged-the look of copper on an old vise, just can't beat it. I'd like to put some on A yost I have. What are the nuts called on your resto that you attached the vise to the base with? I'd like to get some for a vise of mine.
Mark-I've never owned jaw covers, but I'm thinking brass will stand up way better then copper. So brass is just as durable as aluminum?
Mark-I've never owned jaw covers, but I'm thinking brass will stand up way better then copper. So brass is just as durable as aluminum?
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bagged89s10
Well-known member
Evergreen. They are called high crown acorn nuts. I order them from zoro.com.
http://www.zoro.com/search?q=High+crown+acorn+nut
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Evergreentree
Well-known member
Thanks bagged. And again, that Wilton has some great style!
joe.striper
Well-known member
You guys have ANY idea what it will be like for me to deal with Veeps going forward?? Please tone it down! Its not like he delivered a baby in the back of a cab or anything. Holy Cow!!
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Haha Joe. Over restored, could be, but It was worth it on a vise for a repeat customer. Thanks for the tips you've given me on vise restorations.
Nice work as usual on your Wiltons!
bagged89s10
Well-known member
You guys have ANY idea what it will be like for me to deal with Veeps going forward?? Please tone it down! Its not like he delivered a baby in the back of a cab or anything. Holy Cow!!
Hahaha.
I'm ordering some 5/8" rod to make more handles. I sold 3 vises this week and cleaned up my bench. I need to make a handful or more new handles.
Fretters
Well-known member
Nice work on the restorations/refurb's chaps. 
Durability isn't necessarily what you're after. You want something fairly soft too, to save marking the metal being worked. Brass may be just a tad too hard for some things. Copper, lead, wood, leather or aluminium are the safest options, and easily replaced when needed.
Durability isn't necessarily what you're after. You want something fairly soft too, to save marking the metal being worked. Brass may be just a tad too hard for some things. Copper, lead, wood, leather or aluminium are the safest options, and easily replaced when needed.
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You guys have ANY idea what it will be like for me to deal with Veeps going forward?? Please tone it down! Its not like he delivered a baby in the back of a cab or anything. Holy Cow!!
Maybe he will come over and show you how to use a belt sander while keeping sharp edges and not convexing the surface.
sandman54
Well-known member
Hello Rileysan Sandman here, not to but in but that anvil is simply a baby. if u are serious about an anvil check out Greenwood Ironworks. if nothing else you will enjoy what u see. it would be comparable to seeing a 3 inch vise vs a 8 inch .
markbugno
Well-known member
Just finished this craftsman 5170, 3.5" jaws. Bought it at a garage sale for $10. Stripped it down and painted it. I didn't go crazy polishing the metal, but I'm pretty happy with it. Wish I would have taken before photos. This was my first restore / repainted of a vice (or any tool for that matter). I'm sure it won't be my last. This ones gonna be my new daily driver.
Mark
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mark
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Mark in Indiana
Well-known member
According to the Mohs hardness scale:
Aluminum: 2 - 2.9
Copper: 2.5 - 3
Brass: 2 - 4
The Mohs scale is one that rates scratch resistance. IMO: The copper jaws are more aesthetically pleasing, especially the polished, vintage ones. However, I use aluminum because I have a lot of raw stock in my shop. Also, it's a lot cheaper than copper. Looks like if you want a harder material than aluminum, brass is the way to go.
Here's a link to the Mohs hardness scale:
https://www.tedpella.com/company_html/hardness.htm
Shiftless
Well-known member
Markbugno:
Nice job on that classic Craftsman and welcome to the group. Be careful about that bit of restoring old vises and other tools. It will gradually or not so gradually take over your life.
Others who have ignored the warnings will caution you as well. Your substantial 3 1/2 inch wide vise will soon see big brothers join the family. Four, then five and a half inch jaws and bigger will appear. Whatever bench space you now have will begin to be covered with tools outsiders would call redundant.
It happened to me...
Bagged:
Let me add my name to your list of admirers for the magnificent job you did on that Chicago era bullet. Not over restored if that was what the customer wanted and paid for. If buffing gets you lots of extra bucks, then buffing it shall be!
Nice job on that classic Craftsman and welcome to the group. Be careful about that bit of restoring old vises and other tools. It will gradually or not so gradually take over your life.
Others who have ignored the warnings will caution you as well. Your substantial 3 1/2 inch wide vise will soon see big brothers join the family. Four, then five and a half inch jaws and bigger will appear. Whatever bench space you now have will begin to be covered with tools outsiders would call redundant.
It happened to me...
Bagged:
Let me add my name to your list of admirers for the magnificent job you did on that Chicago era bullet. Not over restored if that was what the customer wanted and paid for. If buffing gets you lots of extra bucks, then buffing it shall be!
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Evergreentree
Well-known member
Thanks for the info mark and fretters!
bagged89s10
Well-known member
Just finished this craftsman 5170, 3.5" jaws. Bought it at a garage sale for $10. Stripped it down and painted it. I didn't go crazy polishing the metal, but I'm pretty happy with it. Wish I would have taken before photos. This was my first restore / repainted of a vice (or any tool for that matter). I'm sure it won't be my last. This ones gonna be my new daily driver.
Mark
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
nice restoration!
thanks shiftless. It's always better to under promise and over deliver.
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
My brother, mbsinmich, and I went to an estate sale this morning. Even though we knew this vise was there, we weren’t able (or willing) to pull off our regular early E-A-R-L-Y arrival. The sale started at 9:00 am. but we didn’t get in until about 9:45. Miraculously, this Parker 239X was still there and priced at $50.
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bagged89s10
Well-known member
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
bagged:I was hoping someone here would know what it was used for. If you turn it down tightly, it stops the slide from sliding. I can't think of why anyone would want to lock the slide so it probably does something else. I think I read something about that recently but I can't quite remember.
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Jcrapola
Well-known member
joe.striper
Well-known member
[SIZE=day . Shiftless please don't take my comments of Veeps Vice being over restored as a criticism. It was meant as a compliment. I
I think Veeps does magnificent work and I'm ashamed that I cannot bring my work to his level so that I can finally make Zkling happy for at least one day.[/SIZE]Troyh200
New member
Bagged that Wilton looks awesome. Great job!!!
GETRIDAONE
Well-known member
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CRSINMICH
Well-known member
I bet it didn't come that way. 39X is the same with no swivel base. Nice find
Thanks GET: I'm beginning to think you're right. I haven't found any pictures of any of the Xs that have a screw on top so it's probably user modified. The question still remains as to why someone would want a stop on the slide of a vise. Anyone have ideas?
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Good morning all. A few questions from the knowledgeable minds on this forum. A friend of mine saw the 600S that I had got and redid and decided that, he too, was in need of a large vise to restore
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-1941-W...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
Any ideas? Could Wilton have taken it in for repair and added a new key with a new warranty date? It's also missing the dust cover and I was curious what people have done about that. I saw the wilton parts website sells them for $45, but that seems steep to me.
The one picture of it at the auction has a lever hoist next to it. He picked the hoist up for me at $22. Couldn't beat that for a Yale 3-ton.
Hey Anotherjarhead I have been reading your posts about this vise. Yes it's unusual with that date code. Check out the date database I did in my signature below.
I have not seen any Wilton's marked No 6 so far. Swivel or fixed the 5 Pat Pend 6" vises I have seen so far have been marked as No. 60's.
EDIT: As soon as I posted this went to do updates to the Wilton date thread and there was a No. 6 Pat Pend fixed jaw vise LOL.
The latest date on a Patent Pending is a swivel jaw 60 with a 1972 date. Yours is the second newest with that 1966 date. After looking at pictures of over 300 Wilton's I have seen several that don't follow the normal guidelines.
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Dave_In_NB
Member
Guys, you were right... I have not even touched the 180lb McAvity vise yet and voilà!... another vise finds a new home in my shop. -- A Prentiss No. 2.
Except for a 2" long crack in the slide where it seems nails were being straightened, it is in great condition.
I did not find any other Prentiss no. 2 in the forum; is this guy alone in the world?
Here's a picture after coming home from the auction house, and I could not resist even if the temperature is freezing here to take it apart and give it a quick clean.
What would have been the original finish on these old vises? I would assume they were sold bare metal, but I could be wrong.
Maybe if I get some heat in the shop I may tackle these vises this winter, otherwise it will have to wait till summer. I'll post the finished product in the 101 thread.
Except for a 2" long crack in the slide where it seems nails were being straightened, it is in great condition.
I did not find any other Prentiss no. 2 in the forum; is this guy alone in the world?
Here's a picture after coming home from the auction house, and I could not resist even if the temperature is freezing here to take it apart and give it a quick clean.
What would have been the original finish on these old vises? I would assume they were sold bare metal, but I could be wrong.
Maybe if I get some heat in the shop I may tackle these vises this winter, otherwise it will have to wait till summer. I'll post the finished product in the 101 thread.
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Shiftless
Well-known member
joe.striper:
No worries! You're not the kind of guy to criticize honest work.
Many times the term "over restored" is seen describing car restorations where for example you see flawless mirror shine black paint that was color sanded and polished on a Model T.
Guys doing historically accurate restorations sometimes fall into that trap and are criticized for it.
But vises are different. You and I both agree that the Wilton Bullet looks beyond fantastic.
No worries! You're not the kind of guy to criticize honest work.
Many times the term "over restored" is seen describing car restorations where for example you see flawless mirror shine black paint that was color sanded and polished on a Model T.
Guys doing historically accurate restorations sometimes fall into that trap and are criticized for it.
But vises are different. You and I both agree that the Wilton Bullet looks beyond fantastic.
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CwazyWabbit
Well-known member
Perhaps it was done to add resistance to the slide?
You know how if there is nothing in the vise and the handle is out to one side it will droop down and close the vise slightly? Well if you added resistance with that screw it would stay where you left it.
Why would you do that? No idea, perhaps to hold something really delicate .... Guess I'm rambling.
Evergreentree
Well-known member
Did you by chance get that from Mattysdaddy in Augusta Georgia?
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=227704&showall=1
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
CW: I actually thought of something similar. As it turns out this vise has a feature that would take care of most of that. The spindle bar has resistance built into it so that it will stay where you put it whether it's all the way to one side, all the way to the other, or somewhere between. Now I'm thinking that screw was either for putting resistance on the slide or that it was for some kind of a jig (do you call them jigs?) and it only incidentally went in far enough to hit the slide. I haven't done much tapping but I think it's easier to tap a through hole than a blind hole. That's my working theory as of now. And you thought that you were rambling.
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anndel
Well-known member
Awesome reno bagged, you brought new life to that Wilton!
Evergreentree
Well-known member
Blue-nope, an auction/flea market down the street from my house. I actually contacted him when I first joined for some pointers on the breakdown, before some serious pros stepped in and helped me out. Your not the first to ask about the vise and mattys, they really do look exact. I went to the extent of taking a picture with my business card in it so there was no confusion. To my knowledge, he still has it when I sent him a pm.
Come to think of it, I've never shared how much I bought it for..$100. I bought it along with a parker. ,mounting ?ear? Is missing from the outer ring, swivel was all seized up, no dust cap, but my best vise purchase I think so far. I'm just enjoying actually light duty using it at the moment, in its great patina!it's functioning as it should now.
Come to think of it, I've never shared how much I bought it for..$100. I bought it along with a parker. ,mounting ?ear? Is missing from the outer ring, swivel was all seized up, no dust cap, but my best vise purchase I think so far. I'm just enjoying actually light duty using it at the moment, in its great patina!it's functioning as it should now.
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How much slack is in the dynamic jaw? Could that be a load bolt to remove a little slack?
Wow that is crazy! Wilton must have found some old castings in 1972 and shipped them out. Both vices appear to have the same date 6-72
Evergreentree
Well-known member
Blue-not like this will help much, but I contacted jpw industries to get a new outer ring (I haven't purchased yet because I'm hoping for an old one to come along with the right look, I'm not restoring in a foreseeable time frame) and they said the 60 was sold in the 60-70's. (It was I'm sure) I didn't get into it further about Chicago/patdpending because I know they just don't have a clue...but I guess their records show no 60 was "also" sold in the 60-70s. Trippy man!
Consensus from guys on here is nos so I've been told. Either way, I'm happy to have it no matter what its journey has been.
100th post, yea! It's been fun so far, vise addiction is growing. You are all a bunch of enablers! Good luck at the sales this weekend! Guess I can post on the wanted forum now!
Consensus from guys on here is nos so I've been told. Either way, I'm happy to have it no matter what its journey has been.
100th post, yea! It's been fun so far, vise addiction is growing. You are all a bunch of enablers! Good luck at the sales this weekend! Guess I can post on the wanted forum now!
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Evergreentree
Well-known member
About that doohickey on the Parker-I have a Parker 2300 that when it tightens down all the way, the tail end of the slide kicks up a bit. The jaws don't close precise on mine, which I guess causes the slide kick. Maybe someone popped it in there because his did the same? Parker made some serious jaws, and maybe his fix was quicker (not better) then filing the jaws? I'm currently spending some time here and there hand filing mine, super hard jaws!
Does the a$$ end of the slide kick up when it's tightened down all the way without the doohickey in place?
Does the a$$ end of the slide kick up when it's tightened down all the way without the doohickey in place?
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Yes, for whatever the gap is at the back of the slide cavity. basic leverage. that part lifts the front of the slide pushes down, That's why the jaw support.
Evergreentree
Well-known member
Outlaw-So then would the doohickey in question (crs's Parker)make that kick up sease and cause the leverage to pinpoint onto the jaws to tighten harder with more even jaw pressure? (and put more uniform pressure on the lead nut)?
Would the doohickey act to halt the slide kick in the gap within the slide cavity for completely even jaw pressure?
Newbie here in this world of vises...
Would the doohickey act to halt the slide kick in the gap within the slide cavity for completely even jaw pressure?
Newbie here in this world of vises...
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KMScott
Well-known member
"interesting" Parker AND stand! I imagine it has to be fastened to the ground for actual use?