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Prices of PEX??

bimmer1980

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Joined
Feb 5, 2009
Messages
2,104
Location
York, PA
I did a search but did not find a clear cut answer.....

For those of you that have done radiant floor heat in your house or garage, where did you source your tubing from and how much was it per foot or per roll?

I'm suspecting most of you used 1/2".....

What brad did you like the most and why? PEX vs kitec, etc....

I'm planning to order at least 1500 ft of 1/2 pex for my new garage. I will be doing the work myself.

I'm curious to get your feedback!

Thanks!
Brad
 
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Mungo Park

Active member
Joined
Mar 24, 2009
Messages
26
Location
Winnipeg Manitoba Canada
I got mine local for 50 cents a foot for 1/2". You will also need a manifold to balance the flow/pressure through the loops. With this I got a some fittings to attacht the pex to the mainfold, fittings to pressurize the tubeing with air when the cement was poured. As well as a little box for the tubeing to exit the pad to keep it from kinking or being damaged. I secured the pex to the rebar with zip ties which was the cheapeast option. Also I bought re cycled insulation to put under the pad which was a big saving. Some have bought cutoffs from door factories. I got recyled 2X4 interlocking sheets which were perfect and cut my cost for this to less than half the retail price. :beer:
I bought the pex and such from Woolsely, and this was in Canuck dollars.
Cheers Ron.
 

Jeepskate

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Joined
Apr 28, 2009
Messages
218
Location
Mid-Ohio
I went Ebay as well and saved money by buying two 1000' coils instead of five 300' coils...I can sell the leftover and make some money back. I paid about $850 for the PEX, deluxe manifolds, and pressurization kit delivered.
 

walrus

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Joined
Nov 12, 2008
Messages
11,679
Location
Maine
I used Blue Ridge and bought 300 ft rolls on purpose, may cost more but when it me myself and I doing the work its alot easier to deal with
 
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rlme36

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Joined
Feb 17, 2008
Messages
331
I used a pexsupply dot com. They have the Pex A product by Wirsbo and I also used their manifolds. The connections by Wirsbo don't get any better, easy to use and no leaks. I bought 4 rolls of 300'
 

Dragster Racer

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Feb 9, 2008
Messages
1,891
Location
Morrison, IL
My understanding is that you do not need an O2 barrier if you will not be using a cast iron boiler. We will probably use a tankless.
 

custom1

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Joined
Jan 8, 2008
Messages
307
Location
Pa
I don't think you can use ferrous metal anywhere in the system. Including the pump etc.

I know someone who had radiant put in their new house and the plumber I think used regular pex. They later switched from oil to an outdoor boiler to heat with and the system clogged up. The plumber came and flushed it out and blamed it on them using well water in it but I think its the pex. If it is I don't know what he'll use for an excuse next time.

I could be wrong and I'm cheap but I didn't want to take that chance for $100. I might want to hook up solar panels someday and I don't want to have to worry about what they or any piping is made of.
 

Dragster Racer

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Feb 9, 2008
Messages
1,891
Location
Morrison, IL
From PIMCO instructions: So I think I am ok without cast iron boiler, but should be careful about using any ferrous parts probably. I think the point is that the inside of whatever is ferrous can rust with the presence of oxygen.

DURA-PEX RADIANT FLOOR PIPING DURA-PEX pipe comes in
either an oxygen barrier or standard grade. Both types of DURA-PEX offer the
same longevity and performance qualities. Typically, 1/2” inside diameter pipe is
used and is pre-cut in 250’ coils. Standard DURA-PEX is rated for potable water
and heating where non-ferrous metals are present in the system. Barrier pipe is
used where it is important to restrict passage of oxygen into the system. This is
critical when using cast iron boilers.
 
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