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Any Ford techs out there?

onecheck

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My mom has a 1998 Grand Marques keyless entry system. Her front passenger side window will not lock or unlock using the key pad or the lock control switch. I ripped the door panel off and measured the voltage at pin 5 on the right lock control switch it measured 12V so the switch is getting the correct voltage? Does anybody know what resistance spec is and what pins to check to test the lock & unlock feature? I understand the lock motor is also called the (power door lock actuator motor and it operates in reverse bias) How do I voltage drop the actuator (confused because there’s two terminal and the motor works in reverse bias is the voltage drop spec .2V. Or can I do a resistance check on the motor and what’s the spec on the resistance test on the motor? I'm thinking because I hear the motor working on both the keyless pad and the door locks on both the driver’s side (master switch and passenger’s side switch) there is high resistance some where is the circuit. Thanks for your help. I do not have Alldata or Shop Key. :headscrat
 
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onecheck

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New York
Thanks for the wiring diagram. My mom has the keyless entry sysytem. This diagram is for the non keyless entry.
 

ozzy214

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OOps my bad. Not enough coffee. Here it is. Its a xps file. You need to open it with internet explorer and have the free xps viewer installed. I couldnt make a image due to it being pretty big.

http://rapidshare.com/files/257568302/ggg.zip.html

I zipped it up thinking I could attach it to the post, but the forum wont allow me to. So I put on rapidshare instead. If you can come up with a better way to post it let me know.
 
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onecheck

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New York
OOps my bad. Not enough coffee. Here it is. Its a xps file. You need to open it with internet explorer and have the free xps viewer installed. I couldnt make a image due to it being pretty big.

http://rapidshare.com/files/257568302/ggg.zip.html

I zipped it up thinking I could attach it to the post, but the forum wont allow me to. So I put on rapidshare instead. If you can come up with a better way to post it let me know.

Thanks helps alot :thumbup:.

Do you have the rf/window /door lock control switch with keyless entry and the master door/lock control switch testing procedure on Mitchell. I think the ground is supplied at either or both switches. (Diagram does not show the ground of the circuit)

Thanks
 
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ozzy214

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yes the ground is there. Black wire. It says it leads "behind the right kick panel". Circuit 0203. The same ground supplies trunk release switch, seat switch, and some others if Im interpreting it correctly.


Are we talking bout the door locks not working or window wont go down..Im getting confused..LOLZ.:headscrat

Well anyway complete test of the system. I guess windows, locks, and trunk release is all tied together. Im not familiar with the system, but maybe it will help. Let me know.

http://rapidshare.com/files/257582635/test.zip.html
MD5: 4D5E4F5AF8987CE6025A38A4FBBB1BD7

Again its xps and needs to be open by IE.

Edit. I see why I keep thinking window. You said her window wont unlock...IM thinking of those child safe buttons so the window wont roll down. You must have ment her door wont unlock right?
 
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onecheck

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Dec 27, 2008
Messages
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Location
New York
yes the ground is there. Black wire. It says it leads "behind the right kick panel". Circuit 0203. The same ground supplies trunk release switch, seat switch, and some others if Im interpreting it correctly.


Are we talking bout the door locks not working or window wont go down..Im getting confused..LOLZ.:headscrat

Well anyway complete test of the system. I guess windows, locks, and trunk release is all tied together. Im not familiar with the system, but maybe it will help. Let me know.

http://rapidshare.com/files/257582635/test.zip.html
MD5: 4D5E4F5AF8987CE6025A38A4FBBB1BD7

Again its xps and needs to be open by IE.

Edit. I see why I keep thinking window. You said her window wont unlock...IM thinking of those child safe buttons so the window wont roll down. You must have ment her door wont unlock right?

The problem is the door locks they won’t go up or down using the keyless entry pad, master switch (left side) or the right side switch. However you hear the motor working on all switches and keyless pad. I’m thinking high resistance in the circuit or broken linkage to the door knob
 

ozzy214

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https://t.me/pump_upp
If all doors wont unlock, then I doubt linkage. That be pretty rare for the linkage to come on all doors at once. :bounce:

Run through the test procedure I gave you and should fix it. Remeber Mitchell often talks of dealers tools, but you can improvise without them. Shouldnt need nothing more than a couple paper clips and a dvom. Good luck. Looks to be a lengthy test.:bounce:
 
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knudsen

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Cobblers Knob, IN USA
God I hate those doors. I've dug the window regulators out three times.

I think it's a solenoid. Those locks and windows are way under-powered. I suspect the linkage or gummed up plunger if it's the one door. Mines a 93, so YMMV.
 
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onecheck

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New York
FOUND THE PROBLEM.

High resistance in the right front door motor/actuator. I bought a new door motor/actuator know having a hard time connecting the door lock actuator rod. I don’t know where the actuator rod connected too. What a pain does anybody know where the rod hooks to. It’s almost impossible to see inside the door?
 
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onecheck

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Dec 27, 2008
Messages
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Location
New York
To the door latch as quoted from Micthell. Did you pay att when you took it off? :wtf:

ozzy214 you have been a great help and I appreciate it :thumbup:. The Mitchell information explains how to test the system. I need the removal, installation and diagram of the right front door lock actuator. I tried to pay att on how I uninstalled the actuator but It’s hard you can’t see because the window track is blocking the view :mad:. I removed the actuator by wiggling it. I even took a picture with my camera phone and the picture came out blurry
 
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ozzy214

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Sorry man.. No pics. All Mitchell says is

Remove door trim and watershield. Use a 1/4 drill to remove rivet attaching actuator to door. Disconnect door lock auctor connector. Disengage link from door latch. Remove door lock actuator. To install, reverse removal procedure.

That is 100% verbatim of what it says and no pics. You may have to pop the latch out to find the connector. Only thing I can think of. Searching on Mitchell it doesnt seem to have a procedure for removing the latch. Nor does it have a blown up schematic of the door in anything.
 
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