Show us your compressor plumbing and manifolds
- Thread starter beater74
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OK, I am actually right at this point in the new shop. I came up with a zillion ideas, ways to overcomplicate it, etc.
I have a 5hp, and a 7.5 hp compressor. Both will run at the same time. Same on/ off pressures. I will run 1" air piping. The cool looking blue alum tubing. The compressors have 3/4" pipe outlet fittings. I will T these into the 1" tubing. I will run though some finned tubing to cool a little, in and out of this filter, then on to the rest of the shop.
To complicate, I have compressors in non cooled area, shop is air conditioned. Probably will have to install a second dryer.
Wags
You guys have more in copper tubing than this cost. HAHHA
I have a 5hp, and a 7.5 hp compressor. Both will run at the same time. Same on/ off pressures. I will run 1" air piping. The cool looking blue alum tubing. The compressors have 3/4" pipe outlet fittings. I will T these into the 1" tubing. I will run though some finned tubing to cool a little, in and out of this filter, then on to the rest of the shop.
To complicate, I have compressors in non cooled area, shop is air conditioned. Probably will have to install a second dryer.
Wags
You guys have more in copper tubing than this cost. HAHHA
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radrush
Well-known member
Use of finned cooper tubing requires some planning. The spacing of the fins dictates whether it can be used in a passive condition or if it will need a fan to move the air through the fins.
I was debating fan, but I'm not painting stuff...
So, I will have 5' of flex line to wall, about 15' of finned tubing, mounted horizontally (with slope) to filter, then go.
OH, and my compressor tanks have timed water drain timer things, so tanks pretty dry.
Wags
Mitheral
Member
This is my partially completed system cobbled together from leftover bits I had hanging around.
Air comes into the manifold via the coupler on the T on the left hand vertical. The plan is for a ring loop around my shop off the stub at the top left of the zig zag. The half dozen drops around the 24x28 shop will be up and overs like the current drop into the reel.
The manifold is fed from a 60 gallon single stage via 5m of 3/4" rubber flex; compressor is going to move a couple times until shop layout is finalized. Once the compressor is in it's final place the feed will be via ~6m of 3/4 copper matching the rest of the pressure piping.
The piping to the separator and low pressure regular has been extended since this picture to avoid dumping directly in front of the outlets.
Air comes into the manifold via the coupler on the T on the left hand vertical. The plan is for a ring loop around my shop off the stub at the top left of the zig zag. The half dozen drops around the 24x28 shop will be up and overs like the current drop into the reel.
The manifold is fed from a 60 gallon single stage via 5m of 3/4" rubber flex; compressor is going to move a couple times until shop layout is finalized. Once the compressor is in it's final place the feed will be via ~6m of 3/4 copper matching the rest of the pressure piping.
The piping to the separator and low pressure regular has been extended since this picture to avoid dumping directly in front of the outlets.
493mike
Well-known member
goodysgotacuda
Well-known member
Pretty basic, some 1/2" copper to the reel and blast cabinet. 
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52wrench
Well-known member
Duck tape Bill
Well-known member
could we get a link to this?
I seen a cooler that someone made, it looked pretty over thought, it was all resouced though, so that was impressive, he used an old computer tower case, he mounted a fan to one side and a slotted register on the other for air flow, inside was the coil respurposed from a tankless water coil out of an oil boiler... It worked, looked good too...
the coil looked like this, so the front plate was on the face of the tower, and he painted it all black, it looked like something someone would sell..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Domestic-Ho...962001?hash=item1c5dedfc51:g:nIAAAOSwo6lWNPU-
the coil looked like this, so the front plate was on the face of the tower, and he painted it all black, it looked like something someone would sell..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Domestic-Ho...962001?hash=item1c5dedfc51:g:nIAAAOSwo6lWNPU-
52wrench
Well-known member
Here's the link. It goes into a heater that is 12" wide so has about 4' of 1/2" copper. I'm upgrading my system to parallel an add'l pump into my 60 gal. CH so I think I'll plumb a few of these in. May have to cut that U off and silver solder a new one on by the looks of the joints.
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/hvac/heaters/hydronic-baseboard/embassy-hav-48-3-heating-element
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/hvac/heaters/hydronic-baseboard/embassy-hav-48-3-heating-element
So, while browsing youtube on this subject, a guy installed a cooler very similar to this BEFORE the tank. He came out of his second stage pump, through cooler, through water trap and filter, then into tank.
He had some very solid ideas.
SO... since he was significantly lowering the temperature of the air in his tank, this significantly reduced the amount of moisture said air could hold. He also said motor and compressor head were much cooler (as the tank was not acting like a huge heat sink)
THIS cooler was simply mounted on the opposite side of the compressor fan/ pulley guard. It had air pulled through when compressor was running, just like it blows on compressor fins.
I AM going this route. I have a timed drain on the tank. I probably will put a cheapie water trap on the inlet side also. Then to tank, out, then through my main line filter/ water trap.
Wags
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Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
Pretty basic, some 1/2" copper to the reel and blast cabinet.
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Where's the compressor? In the box?
Your blast cabinet doesn't clog due to water in the air? How many linear feet of copper do you think you have between exiting the tank and entering the blast cabinet?
Wanna Ride
Well-known member
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- Jul 28, 2010
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- 2,790
Nothing fancy, but gets the job done. I bought this compressor new at Menard's about 18 years ago, and use it every week, with no issues...
goodysgotacuda
Well-known member
The compressor is in the box.
I have not had any issues with water and the blast cabinet, the air goes through about 9' of Copper before the regulator/water trap, then another 5' before the cabinet.
However, I have not used it in humid/Summer days yet. I do expect to add some sort of after cooler and/or fan to the box to keep temps reasonable if I run the compressor for extended periods non-stop.
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52wrench
Well-known member
"So, while browsing youtube on this subject, a guy installed a cooler very similar to this BEFORE the tank. He came out of his second stage pump, through cooler, through water trap and filter, then into tank"
I question his reasoning on installing the water trap and filter before the tank. The tank acts as a big cooler and separator and will separate the water from the cooler. Def. after the tank but I think before is not necessary IMO.
I question his reasoning on installing the water trap and filter before the tank. The tank acts as a big cooler and separator and will separate the water from the cooler. Def. after the tank but I think before is not necessary IMO.
Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
Interesting. It's never (well, almost) truly humid in SoCal so maybe I wouldn't need to add more. I have a HF 60 gallon single stage upright, a used one I got from Craigslist in excellent condition for a great price. I FINALLY got the 220v electrical hooked up and the pressure switch swapped out - Harbor Freight one was total junk. I also have a blast cabinet similar to yours but I have no idea how to get it up and running? It needs new gloves, but other than that appears to be complete. I guess I'll start hooking stuff up and see what happens!
Wow, how long does it take to pump up 560 gallons?
Finky198
Well-known member
I'll have to take better pictures soon but it's an IR 2475n7.5 80gal the intake was slightly damaged so I made one out of PVC and a filter. The compressor is piped to 3/4" hydraulic hose to a secondary 44gal tank, another 3/4" hose comes out of the top of the tank. Then rises to the overhead beam approx 4 more feet and gets plumbed to 15' of 1" black iron pipe sloped downward. Its then piped to a T fitting that will eventually link to the other side of the garage. After that it continues a few more feet to first drop which contains a sharpe f88 filter and regulator with 3 quick chucks... At the regulator we're running around 110-120psi which accounts for the small pressure drop and gives us very good tool performance...so far we have not needed any additional water separating features. We got lucky the system is very simple and performs extremely well with very little moisture. The whole system is completely rubber mounted tank, pump, and motor. Tank is anchored to the floor with redheads drop ins.
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Falcon67
Well-known member
Compressor plumbing
Manifold
Manifold
Cairo94507
Well-known member
Nice manifold. 
I respectfully think you are missing the purpose. When cooling air before entering tank, tank temp is reduced. Duh. BUT, cool air can hold less moisture than warm air. So, cooler air will release more water in the pre tank water separator. This will result in a cooler tank overall. This is good. There will be less moisture in the tank, since much was removed before it hit the tank. This would prolong tank life.... theoretically.
Wags
I don't explain stuff good. He said he gets very little additional water out of air post tank.
Duck tape Bill
Well-known member
Thanks for the link. That would be a nice little radiator to put between the compressor and the tank, but I agree, those joints on that "u" look a little suspect. I wonder what PSI that is designed to handle.
A while back I was looking at the 7000 series coolers made by Derale http://derale.com/products/fluid-coolers/universal/series-7000-tube-fin2013-10-28-09-53-271281414118 I sent Derale an email and was told that the 7000 series was tested to 300psi, and that they could be used in this sort of application.
MikeJ686981
Well-known member
Mine is a bit simpler...but works for me.
52wrench
Well-known member
Totally understand the purpose, just question whether it will extend the tank life but no big deal the separators are cheap. The tank works as a great separator because of the big drop in gas velocity as the air enters the tank, any water held in suspension as the air is cooled in the cooler will drop out in the tank. Auto-drain on tank is a must.
I'd say it is totally a non issue if your compressor doesn't run constant for some operations.
I was thinking the advantage for me... is glass beading. I run 2 compressors with my blast cabinet. They only shut off for a couple minutes if I am blasting constant. The tank itself gets pretty damn warm. So, if that helps with moisture in tank overall, it would also help with moisture out.
Like you said, they are pretty cheap.
I'll see if I can find the youtube link again. The guy rambles on about other ******** for a while...
Wags
Totally with you on drop of air velocity AND auto drain. I got lazy with my manual drains. When I drained them, I would get 2 to 5 gallons of water! DOOP!
jarhead
Well-known member
Mine...
60 gallon IR
I still have one more water trap to install.
60 gallon IR
I still have one more water trap to install.
vonhef
Well-known member
This is a simple design.... But it works.
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rick carpenter
Well-known member
Two questions for Finky198, Falcon67 (Chris), and vonhef (Hef) please...
I assume your 90* elbows plus high mounts are to reduce intake noise, so how is that working out? On my 8 gal comp, I measured my dBs with the intake filter stock (straight out), 90* up, and without. They were all about the same.
And how do y'all keep your high mounted intakes vertical? I tried to fit a 90* elbow fitting up to the intake filter on my comp. I was scared of tightening it up too tight and it vibrated loose down each time it turned on (my manual stressed that it should only be screwed in finger tight). That plus no reduction in intake noise with the elbow lead me to go back to the stock configuration.
I assume your 90* elbows plus high mounts are to reduce intake noise, so how is that working out? On my 8 gal comp, I measured my dBs with the intake filter stock (straight out), 90* up, and without. They were all about the same.
And how do y'all keep your high mounted intakes vertical? I tried to fit a 90* elbow fitting up to the intake filter on my comp. I was scared of tightening it up too tight and it vibrated loose down each time it turned on (my manual stressed that it should only be screwed in finger tight). That plus no reduction in intake noise with the elbow lead me to go back to the stock configuration.
vonhef
Well-known member
I did install the 90 to reduce noise. It may have helped a bit... seemed to take away some of what I call the "popping" noise. My compressor is what I call slow & low... it turns slow & has low noise.
The 90 is threaded into the cast iron head and is plenty tight. The compressor is a 1957 Curtis and is well built. What is yours? aluminum or cast iron? American or import? If the owners manual is warning about overtightening..... it may not be able to be tightened up like mine.
I suppose one could build a support out of angle iron or something similar that bolted down to the frame and clamped on the intake pipe to keep it from unthreading.
Sounds like yours may be a small oil free compressor? If so, It may as you have mentioned, not make much of a reduction in your noise level. That type of compressor turns fast and are very loud. The noise level isn't just from the intake air system.
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rick carpenter
Well-known member
I did install the 90 to reduce noise. It may have helped a bit... seemed to take away some of what I call the "popping" noise. My compressor is what I call slow & low... it turns slow & has low noise.
The 90 is threaded into the cast iron head and is plenty tight. The compressor is a 1957 Curtis and is well built. What is yours? aluminum or cast iron? American or import? If the owners manual is warning about overtightening..... it may not be able to be tightened up like mine.
I suppose one could build a support out of angle iron or something similar that bolted down to the frame and clamped on the intake pipe to keep it from unthreading.
Sounds like yours may be a small oil free compressor? If so, It may as you have mentioned, not make much of a reduction in your noise level. That type of compressor turns fast and are very loud. The noise level isn't just from the intake air system.
Mine is a Chinese-made oiled 8 gal Husky with an aluminum head. It's direct drive so yeah that's where the noise comes from, I had read that straight intakes kinda broadcast the internal noise some. Thanks, but I won't do the external metal bracket thing as one purchase decision was ease of and durability in transport (it's intended for worksites as well as garage duty). I'm pretty sure anything I would try, even the 90* elbow that I did try, to create a remote intake would make it less compact and more complex/fragile. Thanks.
jarhead
Well-known member
Mine is a bit simpler...but works for me.
Nice looking shop from what I can see. Do you have a build thread?
Thanks, Joe
jrsulo
Well-known member
This is a simple design.... But it works.
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Nice Curtis !!!!!!!
diver165
Member
I see a huge problem with this setup.
Access to the guns is blocked by the air compressor!
CJ7VFR
Well-known member
Mine is a bit simpler...but works for me.
I like this setup. Simple and effective! No complicated piping runs and so simple it can be placed in just about any garage or shop!
I have a small 5HP 30 Gallon compressor in my garage, and I have just been using a 50 foot hose on a reel for my air tools.
But they get condensation in them (obviously) and I have wanted to install a simple manifold setup for myself to try to get rid of some of the water.
It is funny that we always try to complicate things as others have said, that we can't see the forest for the trees!
Thank you for a simple and nice looking setup, and especially for posting a picture of it!!!!!
Jim
brianpgriset
Well-known member
I'm sorry if I missed it but why are people doing this? Are they doing it for less moisture or less heat or maybe both? I'm very close to purchasing this..... Air Compressor What will I need to do for this compressor or don't I need to do anything?
goodysgotacuda
Well-known member
The idea of cooling the air before it gets to the tank, or more importantly, the tool is to get the water to separate from the hot/humid air.
If you can put cool[er] air into the tank, the moisture is more likely to drop to the bottom of the tank, making subsequent water traps be more efficient and thus keeping water out of your air tools, or even paint.
You don't "have" to do any of it, but in the end, less moisture to the tool is always better.
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