Trimming MIG welding nozzle?

[dmw16]

I just started teaching myself to MIG weld and I've been watching a lot of videos on youtube. The ones I've really been getting a lot from are the welding tips and tricks series.

Jody, the guy that makes the videos, makes multiple references to trimming the nozzle of the weld gun so that the tip is flush with or even sticking past the end of the nozzle.

Is that something you guys find yourself doing or is it overkill? He seems to really know his stuff, so I don't really doubt his advice. But I'm curious if it's something a lot of people do?

 

[ishiboo]

I've never needed to. Are you having issues getting proper stickout length with your current setup? There may be a shorter nozzle you can buy.

If you are doing FCAW it might be fine, but if you're doing MIG I would keep the factory nozzle length.

 

[zmotorsports]

This is a two part question. First, does the stickout from the contact tip make a difference? Absolutely. Second question, do you need to trim the gas nozzle? That depends on the position of the gas nozzle in relation to the contact tip.

I have found that when purchasing generic nozzles, they can end up being too long which results in the contact tip being tucked quite a bit up inside the nozzle, also resulting in too long of stickout. If you purchase the correct nozzles you shouldn't have to trim them down as they will be the correct length.

That said, I have had to trim down some at work that were a bit too long keeping the contact tip tucked up too far. I just kissed them on the disc sander to bring them to the correct length, not a big deal. Just make sure to put a slight chamfer or debur the inside or it will impede/disturb the gas flow coming out of the nozzle.

Mike.

 

[dmw16]

I'm not having issues, at least not that I'm aware of, but it's something he comes back to and I wasn't sure if perhaps I was too green at this to know if I was or wasn't having issues...if that makes sense?

It seems in the case of welding tips and tricks he trims them so the contact tip and nozzle are flush. I'd say my tip is about .1-.125" inside the nozzle.

 

[ovrrdrive]

I think the video's he did that in were where he was in a tight area and wanted to get more shielding gas to the weld.

 

[countryroad82]

I've never had issues with feeling the need to trim my tips. But in the world of bodywork I prefer my nozzle to be a little longer due to some of the weird angles I have to maneuver in to get junk welded up if my tip sticks out it can cause me problems.

 

[rsanter]

The only time I have trimmed MIG nozzles is when I needed to weld in a confined V area and I trimmed the cone back on two sides so I would not have excessive stick out

Bob

 

[LumpyMusic]

I've never had issues with feeling the need to trim my tips. But in the world of bodywork I prefer my nozzle to be a little longer due to some of the weird angles I have to maneuver in to get junk welded up if my tip sticks out it can cause me problems.

I'm confused...You like the nozzle LONGER because of the weird angles you weld in?

I'm exactly the opposite. I like the nozzle SHORTER because of the tight quarters.


Sgt Lumpy

 

[MJD1]

A lot depends on what's available for the gun your using. Many of the higher end guns have a vast selection of nozzles that are available. I prefer a 1/2" opening flush tip for most mig. 5/8" flush for dual shield wire. I have a nozzle I cut into a V shape for corners that are tight, but mostly use the 1/2" flush. Belt sander or cutting disc works well for trimming.

 

[oldmxracer]

Must have seen the same video You did.

Have a junk pos 120v Craftsman 90 amp mig welder on gas, had it for too many years (past time to upgrade ) but I cut Mine down now and somehow, It helped Me !

 

[countryroad82]

I'm confused...You like the nozzle LONGER because of the weird angles you weld in?

I'm exactly the opposite. I like the nozzle SHORTER because of the tight quarters.


Sgt Lumpy

Yes. When welding say inner rockers panels while upside down, in a dark spot with my light being a pita, and dodging hot sparks from either burning through and burning my bald head or running down my sleeve to burn my armpit or whereever it goes, I like my nozzle a little long or not level because it gives me the right amount of slack in my wire to get a good weld. If it's level I can't hold my arm straight enough and I tend to either weld the wire to the tip or birds nest the welder if I'm not paying attention. Got to remember in the bodywork world it's not long nice beads of weld but lots and I mean lots of short bursts. What would take 2 minutes to weld up if I could run a straight bead, takes hours of multiple tacks. You get a little tired if you've got a rusty car you're working on.

 

[rlitman]

If you are doing FCAW it might be fine, but if you're doing MIG I would keep the factory nozzle length.

Huh? I thought you didn't use a nozzle at all with FCAW.

 

[ovrrdrive]

I think some of you are confusing the tip with the nozzle...

 

[dr_clyde]

I have trimmed my nozzles for short arc MIG when needed. I feel like it does make a noticeable enough difference to go through the effort. I just use a grinder or belt sander. They make different length contact tips, but when you're on a job and can't go to the welding supply you do what you gotta do.

 

[BigMike782]

I use Bernard Centerfire on the Magnum 100 on my SP-135 and Bernard does not offer a flush copper nozzle so I trimmed mine down so it is about 1/16 to flush and I like it much better that way.

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

I might be misunderstanding the issue as the nozzle on my Hobart is adjustable for position?

 

[dr_clyde]

I might be misunderstanding the issue as the nozzle on my Hobart is adjustable for position?

Some are and some aren't. My old tregaskiss gun on my lincoln didn't have nozzles available that got the tip anywhere near the end of the nozzle. I had a modified one that was light years better than the factory length one.

 

[petee_c]

reviving an old thread....

I finally got gas for my Hobart Handler 120, and I took about 8 classes of a evening MIG course at the local college before it was shut down due to COVID.

My HH120 is old, I bought it used, and AFAIK, I'm at least the 3rd owner. It is hard to find the right thread contact tips for it, but I did find some on ebay that were the right thread, but only about 7/8-15/16" long.... I think that the right size would have been 1" long.

My 1st practice welds, the contact tip was recessed into the nozzle at least 1/8" to 3/16". This matters if the material i'm welding is thin, and I only am supposed to be having a 5/16" stickout.

If I thread the nozzle insulator all the way, I still have an innie contact tip (but that's hard on the insulator, as I really have to reef it on.). I am happy with it now, but I might trim the insulator a little bit (like 3/32" or so). If I trim back the insulator a little bit, I can push the nozzle on further...

I am having difficulties getting the following 3 things right in my amateur welds:
- the right stickout
- the right contact tip to work distance
- seeing my work around the nozzle.

I figure if I can get the contact tip almost flush or flush or even protruding 1/16" out of the nozzle, I will see the welds better, and get flatter welds as I am running pretty low amps most of the time... ( I am working on mostly thin stuff right now)

Most of my practice weld beads are sitting up pretty high and getting good penetration, but I need to get the bead flatter. I only have 4 settings for voltage on this machine, and the standard potentiometer for wire speed.

 

[dr_clyde]

reviving an old thread....

I finally got gas for my Hobart Handler 120, and I took about 8 classes of a evening MIG course at the local college before it was shut down due to COVID.

My HH120 is old, I bought it used, and AFAIK, I'm at least the 3rd owner. It is hard to find the right thread contact tips for it, but I did find some on ebay that were the right thread, but only about 7/8-15/16" long.... I think that the right size would have been 1" long.

My 1st practice welds, the contact tip was recessed into the nozzle at least 1/8" to 3/16". This matters if the material i'm welding is thin, and I only am supposed to be having a 5/16" stickout.

If I thread the nozzle insulator all the way, I still have an innie contact tip (but that's hard on the insulator, as I really have to reef it on.). I am happy with it now, but I might trim the insulator a little bit (like 3/32" or so). If I trim back the insulator a little bit, I can push the nozzle on further...

I am having difficulties getting the following 3 things right in my amateur welds:
- the right stickout
- the right contact tip to work distance
- seeing my work around the nozzle.

I figure if I can get the contact tip almost flush or flush or even protruding 1/16" out of the nozzle, I will see the welds better, and get flatter welds as I am running pretty low amps most of the time... ( I am working on mostly thin stuff right now)

Most of my practice weld beads are sitting up pretty high and getting good penetration, but I need to get the bead flatter. I only have 4 settings for voltage on this machine, and the standard potentiometer for wire speed.

Just grind your nozzle down on the belt grinder and run it. For short circuit mig, you can pretty much have the contact tip flush with the end of the nozzle for everything.

After this Covid thing, you can go to the welding supply house and get the right tips and a spare nozzle or two.

 

[petee_c]

Just grind your nozzle down on the belt grinder and run it. For short circuit mig, you can pretty much have the contact tip flush with the end of the nozzle for everything.

After this Covid thing, you can go to the welding supply house and get the right tips and a spare nozzle or two.

Thanks for the reply.

I'll work at getting the nozzle and tip flush with each other.

Problem with my welder, is I think it's from the late 1990's.... Hobart doesnt make parts for it. I can maybe mail order some from the states... My research / measuring states that the contact tip is a male m6x1.0 thread, or I believe 1/4"x 20 thread... I have 10 of the 0.030 contact tips from my ebay order, but they are just a bit recessed in the nozzle.

I guess grinding the nozzle is a decent solution... I believe nozzles in the home environment and low amps will last a fair length of time....

 

[dr_clyde]

Thanks for the reply.

I'll work at getting the nozzle and tip flush with each other.

Problem with my welder, is I think it's from the late 1990's.... Hobart doesnt make parts for it. I can maybe mail order some from the states... My research / measuring states that the contact tip is a male m6x1.0 thread, or I believe 1/4"x 20 thread... I have 10 of the 0.030 contact tips from my ebay order, but they are just a bit recessed in the nozzle.

I guess grinding the nozzle is a decent solution... I believe nozzles in the home environment and low amps will last a fair length of time....

Who told you that parts are unavailable?

Even if for some bizarre reason your LWS can’t get tips for that gun, they make new guns that fit old welders.

ITW, the company that owns Hobart also owns Miller, and they can still get parts for welders way older than the 90’s.

 

[petee_c]

dr_clyde,

thanks for your help....

no one specifically said parts were available, but a quick search on the web said parts were obsolete for the Piecemaker 14a gun (which I have with the welder)....

I have found out by measuring the threads that the contact tips are m6x1, or 1/4" x20T, most of the name brand stuff around here (Lincoln, Miller) has moved to the 1/4"x24T thread I believe for the contact tip.

I've only been to the LWS a couple times, but the one was not that helpful.... The Air Liquide Canada place where I bought my tank was helpful.... He said to bring in my contact tips and diffuser and he would be able to hook me up with something that would work.

The gun end of the diffuser is a 3/8"x24T male thread as best as I can measure. There are a couple off brand companies that use this size I believe.

Having fun getting this thing to finally weld.

 

[marcwert]

dr_clyde,

thanks for your help....

no one specifically said parts were available, but a quick search on the web said parts were obsolete for the Piecemaker 14a gun (which I have with the welder)....

I have found out by measuring the threads that the contact tips are m6x1, or 1/4" x20T, most of the name brand stuff around here (Lincoln, Miller) has moved to the 1/4"x24T thread I believe for the contact tip.

I've only been to the LWS a couple times, but the one was not that helpful.... The Air Liquide Canada place where I bought my tank was helpful.... He said to bring in my contact tips and diffuser and he would be able to hook me up with something that would work.

The gun end of the diffuser is a 3/8"x24T male thread as best as I can measure. There are a couple off brand companies that use this size I believe.

Having fun getting this thing to finally weld.

Take a tweco 14-35 tip and run a 1/4 x 20 rethreader over the existing threads. Cut to length and use it in your piecemaker.