RTV Silicone for valve cover

[edcantu9]

Hello. I am changing the gasket on the valve cover on my 2003 Escape. I have these two bottles of RTV here in my garage.

The red one states that it is not recommended for head gaskets. I am confused because people say they use it for that?? Even on amazon people state they use it on head gaskets?

The blue one has no such warning. But I find it odd that people recommend the red one if it states on the back it is not for that.

Is there another one I should use? Is the blue one okay to use? I will be using it to place a small amount on the recommended corners to put it on.

 

[rohartman]

either one will work for valve covers. i use permatex cooper spray-a-gasket for head gasket.

O

 

[trukkins10]

I used the blue on my Saturn

 

[WhiffySpark]

Pretty sure those are rubber gaskets aren't they?

 

[ZRX61]

Doesn't that engine use a rubber v/c gasket? why would need to use any of that **** on it?

 

[edcantu9]

There is 4 spots it's required in according to Haynes manual.

 

[Dustball]

Hello. I am changing the gasket on the valve cover on my 2003 Escape. I have these two bottles of RTV here in my garage.

The red one states that it is not recommended for head gaskets. I am confused because people say they use it for that?? Even on amazon people state they use it on head gaskets?

The blue one has no such warning. But I find it odd that people recommend the red one if it states on the back it is not for that.

I think you're a little confused- head gaskets are not the same as valve cover gaskets.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Modern engine head gaskets usually require nothing.

Valve cover gaskets are a matter of preference and gasket type...

Tommy

 

[AdamD87]

Personally I would go get some permatex ultra black.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

 

[Richard Cranium]

I have used the blue stuff on valve cover gaskets.

 

[rlitman]

I think you're a little confused- head gaskets are not the same as valve cover gaskets.

Exactly. You're not going to find an RTV that claims to be ok for head gaskets, but that's not a problem here.

Personally I would go get some permatex ultra black.

I believe that would be the best choice for this use.

Also, I wouldn't use RTV of unknown age on something where failure can cause you grief.
Especially that unsealed tube of red where the cap failed. That's a sure sign it's trash.

 

[383 240z]

I think the head gasket disclaimer is there from back when steel shim head gaskets where common, The ones you spray with red hi-tack. Maybe they didn't want people thinking, "hey they are both red, must be the same stuff" Keith

 

[csargents1546]

The permatex. is good. Don't need it all the way around. Those engines use a rubber gasket. They are cheap enought to not replace them. Also you will need intake gaskets. Pm me if you need any help. Done a whole bunch of those over the years.

 

[ssentt]

Wife's 4banger escape had rubber valve cover gasket. No rtv needed per ford dealer.

 

[edcantu9]

Which one would be better to use the red or blue one?

 

[Dustball]

There is 4 spots it's required in according to Haynes manual.

You must be reading the wrong section. It seems like you're reading the section for replacing head gaskets. If you're doing valve cover gaskets, use no RTV at all.

 

[Falcon67]

I run rubber valve cover gaskets on both race cars. No RTV used, no leaks. Clean the mating surfaces and keep the gasket clean and dry, install gasket and cover, tighten to specs.

 

[WhiffySpark]

Which one would be better to use the red or blue one?

Neither. You have a rubber gasket. I use a dab of weather stripping glue to hold it in place in the valve cover, but that's it.

And I would use black or copper rtv for anything motor related, but not this application

 

[theoldwizard1]

I have never had good luck with ANY kind of RTV in place of a valve cover gasket.

Some people swear by

 

[Daedalus]

Also, I wouldn't use RTV of unknown age on something where failure can cause you grief.
Especially that unsealed tube of red where the cap failed. That's a sure sign it's trash.

+1 Read up on shelf life from the manufacturer. I think it's only a year or 2 unopened, and less once it's opened.

RTV is often used in the corners on solid gaskets because the mating surface (head) is not continuous. There is going to be a very fine "crack" where 2 pieces come together, such as at cam sensors or plugs.

 

[matt_i]

A better rocker cover/valve cover gasket is necessary if you can find it. I try to get the blue FelPro gasket wherever I can. Depending on your exhaust manifold port location it can lead to a lot of heat in that area. GM ran into a problem on the old ironhead 3800 with the composite rocker covers above the exhaust ports.

That said, both mating surfaces I would always clean to "surgical cleanliness" meaning that a solvent laden lint free cloth produces no visible grime. Let dry, and apply the RTV. Once cured you will not need to worry as it will leak somewhere else.

 

[edcantu9]

Thanks for the tops on expiration! I read a good test is to put some one some cardboard and see if it hardens within 24hrs.

 

[rlitman]

Thanks for the tops on expiration! I read a good test is to put some one some cardboard and see if it hardens within 24hrs.

Yes, that's a start. But hardening isn't everything. I've seen old RTV harden with a slimy film on the surface that hurts adhesion. Stickiness is more important, and from what I've seen that's harder to test.

I can be accused of using old tubes of caulk around the house from time to time, but on something where I do not want it to fail (like a water pump for example), I'll buy a tube and count it as part of the cost of the job. It's like brake fluid. Sure, you can finish a can if you're in the business and are pouring the rest out in the next few days, but don't reseal a bottle and put it back on the shelf for years.

 

[Cars&Quads]

The absolute best thing to use as tacking material is the black 3M weatherstrip in the tube for cork gaskets, not sure on the rubber as I haven't used it on rubber but would. I've used it on all gaskets of a sbc and haven't had a leak issue, but warning if you do right it's booger to get off, as I bent a v/c that I sealed with it trying to removing it.....lol

 

[WhiffySpark]

Thanks for the tops on expiration! I read a good test is to put some one some cardboard and see if it hardens within 24hrs.

Everyone is telling you NOT to use it. Yet you insist. Why?

 

[edcantu9]

Everyone is telling you NOT to use it. Yet you insist. Why?

You shut your mouth when you're talking to me!

I agree though. I am glad I posted my question. Learned a lot about this stuff.

I will be using the 3M black weatherstripping stuff. I do not want to do this job over again that is for sure!

 

[WhiffySpark]

You shut your mouth when you're talking to me!

I agree though. I am glad I posted my question. Learned a lot about this stuff.

I will be using the 3M black weatherstripping stuff. I do not want to do this job over again that is for sure!

The weather stripping glue is just to hold it in place while you install the valve cover. I run a very very thin bead in a few spots on the valve cover and then install the gasket. Let it sit for a few seconds then install cover on engine.

Don't try to use it like silicone for an extra seal

And I use yellow. It will hold anything together

 

[SMKS]

You must be reading the wrong section. It seems like you're reading the section for replacing head gaskets. If you're doing valve cover gaskets, use no RTV at all.

There are applications where valve cover gaskets also require a few dabs of RTV silicone.

In my Sonata, the factory service manual specifics you should add some silicone on top of the head where the timing cover meets the head. Then install the rubber valve cover gasket on top of that.

The fact that the OP says there are "four spots" where the manual says to use it makes me think he may be right.

 

[ssdave]

In amongst the gems you're getting a LOT of bad information here. SMKS, among others, have it right.

I've rebuilt several of these escape engines in the past couple of years. The RTV is to seal the uneven edge where the front cover and such overlap on the heads and might make a pre-formed seal have a leak. Your manual should show you the places, or you'll be able to see them yourself. It takes a dab about the size of a pea at each spot. You use a pre-formed rubber gasket as the main seal. Either type of sealer you have should work fine, if it isn't too old. You can test it, and if it sets up and has a good consistency, it should work. Or, buy a new tube if you want the best assurance. Do not use the RTV to tack down the whole gasket, or in place of it. Do make sure the gasket seating surfaces are scraped clean and wiped oil and grime free. Place the dabs of sealer at the indicated points, and then place the valve cover with gasket immediately, and torque down to spec, in the bolt sequence indicated on the manual. Go with the advice in the manual over what us unknowns on the internet tell you!

 

[Dustball]

There are applications where valve cover gaskets also require a few dabs of RTV silicone.

In my Sonata, the factory service manual specifics you should add some silicone on top of the head where the timing cover meets the head. Then install the rubber valve cover gasket on top of that.

The fact that the OP says there are "four spots" where the manual says to use it makes me think he may be right.

I was wrong, you are correct. I found a scanned Haynes copy and it does say RTV in certain spots.

I wouldn't use either of the two RTV tubes that the OP has. I'd go spend a few bucks and buy Permatex Ultra Black.

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...stance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-82180-detail

 

[Nexussian]

I have never had good luck with ANY kind of RTV in place of a valve cover gasket.

Some people swear by

That's the stuff.

For valve covers that use a gasket, I include one, unless it is a taller than stock cover.

 

[finn]

RTV was pretty common in lieu of traditional gaskets on engines back in the 80s and 90s, especially for sheet metal oil pans and valve covers, The gray Walker product was best, albeit difficult to remove. Black was also common.

I personally use the blue stuff now.

Make sure the product you use is compatible with O2 sensors if you use it on a modern engine.

 

[edcantu9]

So I started the job. Wow it is a lot tougher than I thought. The front valve cover came out. I tried getting back in and wow... it seems everything is in the way on the left side like wires etc and I cannot get it in unless I force it in. So I have not done it yet.

On the back side the cover is on there tight. What is a recommendation on how to remove it easily? Just remember there is not much room.

Has anyone done this this job before any good tips?

If anyone has a link to a write up on it that would be great!

I have the Haynes manual but it is not the best. Very generic.

 

[Squankum]

Maybe just check the torque on the fasteners on the rear VC? Call me lazy, but it's worth a try, and those fasteners haven't vibrated tighter over the years.


.

 

[Nessal]

I would just buy the OEM gasket instead. It's not worth tearing it all apart again if it leaks. I believe that certain RTV reacts with gasoline so maybe that is why they advise against it.

 

[andys]

I put it on any joint, ie. timing cover joints, machine plugs, etc, that the gasket passes over. I will also put a dab on any raised corner like a cam cap. Cheap insurance and it's never failed me.

 

[sometoyotaguy]

Use the Blue. It doesn't get as stiff as the red. That's what I've used on my Toyotas.

 

[stage20]

im a fan of the grey. if you have a buddy at the gm dealer the GM brand grey is the stickiest stuff ive used but its a fortune....unless you have a hookup.

blue and red always stick out, and i like my stuff to look clean, whether show car or a beater.

 

[dave*99]

In amongst the gems you're getting a LOT of bad information here. SMKS, among others, have it right.

I've rebuilt several of these escape engines in the past couple of years. The RTV is to seal the uneven edge where the front cover and such overlap on the heads and might make a pre-formed seal have a leak. Your manual should show you the places, or you'll be able to see them yourself. It takes a dab about the size of a pea at each spot. You use a pre-formed rubber gasket as the main seal. Either type of sealer you have should work fine, if it isn't too old. You can test it, and if it sets up and has a good consistency, it should work. Or, buy a new tube if you want the best assurance. Do not use the RTV to tack down the whole gasket, or in place of it. Do make sure the gasket seating surfaces are scraped clean and wiped oil and grime free. Place the dabs of sealer at the indicated points, and then place the valve cover with gasket immediately, and torque down to spec, in the bolt sequence indicated on the manual. Go with the advice in the manual over what us unknowns on the internet tell you!

 

[Charles (in GA)]

There are applications where valve cover gaskets also require a few dabs of RTV silicone.

In my Sonata, the factory service manual specifics you should add some silicone on top of the head where the timing cover meets the head. Then install the rubber valve cover gasket on top of that.

The fact that the OP says there are "four spots" where the manual says to use it makes me think he may be right.

It took 28 posts for reading comprehension to finally show........ The OP clearly stated in the beginning he was using small amounts of it in corners, as "recommended" and later clarified that the manual called this out............

Sheesh!!!!!!!!!

Go and buy a new tube. When done, put it on the shelf and the next time you need some, throw it away, and buy another new tube. The stuff does not last long once opened.

Charles