4 post lift, what would you change?
- Thread starter Nexussian
- Start date
Don't bolt it to the floor! They are plenty stable and it's nice to move it around if you need to. My other tip would be to buy a 2 post! I just sold my 4 post. The only thing that a 4 post is good for is parking and welding on subframes. Everything else is way more of a pain.
I'll tell him that's 2 votes for don't bolt it down, he's determined to get a 4 post though.
Thank you.
Here's my suggestions for a 4 post Bendpak. Add a cutoff switch to the power unit. Include as an accessory sensor to prohibit lowering the lift if a car is underneath. Cutoff sensor if a car is too close to the ceiling. Another good accessory would be an LED bar light that is the width of the runways that can slide in the same channel a the jack/drainpan to provide good lighting underneath. I'm working on all these things but would be nice if they were accessories.
K dude, I gotta ask why the need for a safety when lowering the car. I would think since you're going to be standing there with one hand on the pneumatic safety release and the other on the hydraulic drain back, you JUST might notice a car sitting there.
Just saying.
Just saying.
I have a LED light with magnetic ends from harbor freight that may be long enough to stick to the runways (won't know until I try it).
I was figuring on a light switch at the pump as a safety (I've heard the pump buttons can stick).
What kind of safety can you place on the ceiling, an electric eye of some sort?
I haven't heard of any kind of safety switch to keep from dropping the lift on a car stored below, I thought you were supposed to lower the lift onto the locks when you did that, thus removing the hydraulic side of the mechanism as a potential failure point.
Thank you.
I thought you were supposed to lower the lift onto the locks when you did that, thus removing the hydraulic side of the mechanism as a potential failure point.
Thank you.
You are.
jmiller_2308
Well-known member
What kind of LEDs? Do you have pictures?
How many strips, one on each end and another in the middle?
Thank you.
I used two of these strips: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MPDA8WK/?tag=atomicindus08-20
and two power supplies (one for each strip):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NW4MTAA/?tag=atomicindus08-20
And decided to order these to connect the strips to the power supply without cutting and into the power supply cord:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Pack-DC-P...-x-2-1mm-5X-/131465191048?hash=item1e9bef9e88
The attached pictures show looking down the track where you can see the LED strips are placed in the channel of the tracks. The picture of the underside of the car is with no other lights on and no flash so hopefully that gives a good estimate of how much light there is. The red rail picture shows how I mounted a power strip to make running the power supplies (left of the strip) without having to string cords all over. I use the on/off switch of the strip to turn the lights on and off.
I included a picture of the post where I have a 20 Amp power strip that powers the lift as well as feeds the power strips I have on the inside of the rails. The only cord outside the lift goes across from the top of the lift to the wall and down to the outlet that feeds everything.
Attachments
I like what you did there. Is there enough room to do this while still retaining a rolling jack? I'm not sure I can squeeze in this strip and have room to move the rolling jack on my Bendpack HD9xw. Curious if you have anything similar and if it works?
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I think we get the idea, thank you for the pics.
Does the lift seem to have any difficulty with lifting the vehicle with it off one end like that?
Nope. Not to much phases this lift since it's rated at 12K. Now put a loaded F450 with 12ft utility bed loaded with tools and you know it's picking up something.
soj
Well-known member
Don't bolt it down, it is not going anywhere, loaded or unloaded.
Get two of whatever you are going to jack with, either jack trays or rolling jacks. Think, tire rotation, 4 wheel brake job, anything else requiring all 4 wheels off.
Either flip up ramps or aluminium ramps. I have aluminum and they are light enough to be easy to lift out and store on the runners behind the wheels when storing a car.
Add an air/electrical outlet setup to at least one post. Some lift makers sell a pre-made unit, but I made up my own with oiler, regulator and shutoff valve to supply the safety release and air jacks. Also mounted a 4" square box with 2 duplex outlets. Mine (BendPak HD9WX) has a bracket on both sides of the post where you mount the power unit. The unused bracket can be used to bolt on power or air without drilling the post.
Put a motor disconnect switch just before the lift motor push button switch. There have been reports here of the push button sticking on some BendPaks, but it could happen on any brand.
This is not for working on the car on the lift, but for light under a stored car. I use two 4' LED shop lights, the kind that can be connected together. I made jumbo sized hooks from some heavy wire, and hang them from brackets, cables, exhaust, whatever I can find under the stored vehicle. That stored vehicle creates a big shadow, but these lights turn it into the brightest spot in my shop. I don't usually park a second vehicle under the lift, so having good light in that spot returns the space to usable work area. Also, when I don't have a car to store, I raise the lift to open up the floor space, and hang the lights from the channels for the rolling jacks
jp
Get two of whatever you are going to jack with, either jack trays or rolling jacks. Think, tire rotation, 4 wheel brake job, anything else requiring all 4 wheels off.
Either flip up ramps or aluminium ramps. I have aluminum and they are light enough to be easy to lift out and store on the runners behind the wheels when storing a car.
Add an air/electrical outlet setup to at least one post. Some lift makers sell a pre-made unit, but I made up my own with oiler, regulator and shutoff valve to supply the safety release and air jacks. Also mounted a 4" square box with 2 duplex outlets. Mine (BendPak HD9WX) has a bracket on both sides of the post where you mount the power unit. The unused bracket can be used to bolt on power or air without drilling the post.
Put a motor disconnect switch just before the lift motor push button switch. There have been reports here of the push button sticking on some BendPaks, but it could happen on any brand.
This is not for working on the car on the lift, but for light under a stored car. I use two 4' LED shop lights, the kind that can be connected together. I made jumbo sized hooks from some heavy wire, and hang them from brackets, cables, exhaust, whatever I can find under the stored vehicle. That stored vehicle creates a big shadow, but these lights turn it into the brightest spot in my shop. I don't usually park a second vehicle under the lift, so having good light in that spot returns the space to usable work area. Also, when I don't have a car to store, I raise the lift to open up the floor space, and hang the lights from the channels for the rolling jacks
jp
Nope. Not to much phases this lift since it's rated at 12K. Now put a loaded F450 with 12ft utility bed loaded with tools and you know it's picking up something.
Ok, thanks.
c39er
Well-known member
Earth Quake country... better bolt it down.
jmiller_2308
Well-known member
Unfortunately I don't have a rolling jack but my jack tray rolls over it just fine.
The lift is an advantage lift and the channel is quite deep so I suspect that a rolling jack for my lift should roll just as well as my jacking tray does.
Wow, that's a ton of light, thanks.
Not a ton but pretty good. It is easily enough light for me to see almost everything under the car but I still use a magnetic, rechargeable, LED worklight when I have to see further up into the vehicle. For example, up into wheel wells or into the engine bay. I had a nice work light until I used the wrong charger on it; now I use this one and it isn't bad for the price.
http://www.menards.com/main/work-lights/led-rechargeable-100-lumen-work-light-with-100-lumen-spot-light/p-1444436710840-c-7546.htm?tid=4939929480965427271
OOOPS.
My apologies, the relation with the garage is in Arizona.
I thought I had mentioned that in my first post.
I'll edit that presently.
It is definitely a valid concern for here, thank you.
Good point, I always hated how working under a vehicle was like working in a cave though, so removing the need for additional lighting for something like 90% of the underside of the vehicle is awesome in my book.
Thanks for the links and thank you for your posts.
lane meyer
Active member
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2013
- Messages
- 34
The one piece of advice that I read on here, that I'm glad I took, was to make sure the lift's max rise height is over my head. I didn't consider it when initially looking, but I'm so glad I bought one with a max rise of 82". I'm able store my car at roughly 72", so when cleaning, or working under it, I never have to worry about hitting my head, because trust me...I would.
tfalk
Well-known member
Given you don't have a height issue to worry about, get the tallest one you can find that will still allow you to fit the tallest vehicle you need on top...
If there is a wall on either side, put the lift as far away from the wall as you can. I have a wall less than 2 feet from the left side of my lift and it's PITA to do anything on that side.
While plastic drip trays may crack, they also won't leave a nice gouge in the hood of the vehicle underneath should something land on them hard enough to drop them onto said vehicle underneath. Ask me how I know
Wherever you locate the lift in the garage, put a couple of tall mirrors on the wall in front of the lift in front of the runways... makes it easier to drive on and position the car...
If there is a wall on either side, put the lift as far away from the wall as you can. I have a wall less than 2 feet from the left side of my lift and it's PITA to do anything on that side.
While plastic drip trays may crack, they also won't leave a nice gouge in the hood of the vehicle underneath should something land on them hard enough to drop them onto said vehicle underneath. Ask me how I know
Wherever you locate the lift in the garage, put a couple of tall mirrors on the wall in front of the lift in front of the runways... makes it easier to drive on and position the car...
The coating on my Bend Pak runways is terrible, however, it is wearing off quickly and will be smooth. I will weld something else on at that point.
GET BRIDGE JACKS!!!!! What use is the lift (other than just storage) if you cannot lift the car off of the tires/wheels. It costs more $$ but it is the way to go. Also, get the wheels to move the lift around before you bolt it down. I have (4) four-post lifts and have never bolted one down.
GET BRIDGE JACKS!!!!! What use is the lift (other than just storage) if you cannot lift the car off of the tires/wheels. It costs more $$ but it is the way to go. Also, get the wheels to move the lift around before you bolt it down. I have (4) four-post lifts and have never bolted one down.
laser3kw
Well-known member
a little hi jack or help.
I hear a lot of guys say they "roll there 4 post around". I imagine that means they have put wheels / casters on them? Can anyone post pictures?
Do you move it loaded? unloaded? up or down?
I hear a lot of guys say they "roll there 4 post around". I imagine that means they have put wheels / casters on them? Can anyone post pictures?
Do you move it loaded? unloaded? up or down?
Many of the Hobby / storage lifts have a caster kit available so you may relocate the lift, unloaded, at your leisure.
A few posts ago Jmiller posted a link that showed a caster kit included.
http://advantagelifts.us/4-post-lifts/SS-9000-Four-Post-Lift
Given you don't have a height issue to worry about, get the tallest one you can find that will still allow you to fit the tallest vehicle you need on top...
If there is a wall on either side, put the lift as far away from the wall as you can. I have a wall less than 2 feet from the left side of my lift and it's PITA to do anything on that side.
While plastic drip trays may crack, they also won't leave a nice gouge in the hood of the vehicle underneath should something land on them hard enough to drop them onto said vehicle underneath. Ask me how I know
Wherever you locate the lift in the garage, put a couple of tall mirrors on the wall in front of the lift in front of the runways... makes it easier to drive on and position the car...
Hmm, taller seems to be popular today.
Okay, plastic trays to prevent damage.
Mirrors, excellent idea, thank you.
Wearing off?
How long have you had it?
Bridge jacks are the preference.
3 for "don't bolt it down."
Thank you.