Prepping for Rust Bullet

[valkn]

I am prepping my garage floor before putting down Rust Bullet. So far, I pressure washed the floor once, then scrubbed it with a brush and some ZEP Driveway, Concrete and Masonry Cleaner (since I had it from a previous project). Then went back over it with the pressure washer with the surface cleaner attachment. I still have tire marks (not as bad as they originally were) that are not coming up. If I leave the pressure washer on the marks, it started to pit some of the concrete so I stopped.
Since I am using Rust Bullet, is it really necessary to get the marks up? Would etching or using a concrete primer coat be recommended since the remaining tire marks won't come up with the pressure washer?

 

[NewShockerGuy]

Never used rust bullet, however I did acid etch my garage, in both our houses.

I had tire marks/oil stains worse than what your picture shows from the previous owner of our house. It took me 10 times of acid etching and pressuring washing to get the concrete porous to my liking and clean. Take that for a grain of salt but when putting epoxy down it's ALL in the prep work. Don't skimp out. Personally the above picture is not acceptable level of clean to lay epoxy down....

If the concrete is pitting, make sure you are not using or holding the wand so close to the concrete and make sure you are using the right nozzle. I think I was using the 40' degree nozzle at about ankle height.

I'm sure many more will chime in shortly...

-Nigel

 

[Garage Flooring]

I am prepping my garage floor before putting down Rust Bullet. So far, I pressure washed the floor once, then scrubbed it with a brush and some ZEP Driveway, Concrete and Masonry Cleaner (since I had it from a previous project). Then went back over it with the pressure washer with the surface cleaner attachment. I still have tire marks (not as bad as they originally were) that are not coming up. If I leave the pressure washer on the marks, it started to pit some of the concrete so I stopped.
Since I am using Rust Bullet, is it really necessary to get the marks up? Would etching or using a concrete primer coat be recommended since the remaining tire marks won't come up with the pressure washer?

Rust Bullet requires a clean, dry surface, reasonably free of contaminants or sealers. If the tire marks are 'mostly removed' and there is just a little residual stain -- and water is able to penetrate the area-- I would go ahead and coat it.

If it is more of a burn out type mark where there is literally material from the tire still on the surface, it will need to be removed.

 

[valkn]

Well I was able to get 90% of the tire marks up using of all things...."The Works" Toilet Bowl cleaner and a wire brush as suggested on another Forum. However, I am going to etch the entire floor just to be on the safe side as I don't want to be doing this again in the near future!

 

[Garage Flooring]

Well I was able to get 90% of the tire marks up using of all things...."The Works" Toilet Bowl cleaner and a wire brush as suggested on another Forum. However, I am going to etch the entire floor just to be on the safe side as I don't want to be doing this again in the near future!

If you etch the floor, first and foremost make sure you do it right, clean and neutralize. We talk about this in several places but it is often over looked. If you etch or grind the floor, your first coat will soak right in and a third coat may be required.

 

[valkn]

I just used Rust-Oleum Concrete Etch - it didn't say anything about neutralizing. I would love to grind the floor but I am a 5'3" 130# female and all I can imagine is the equipment dragging me around the garage bouncing me off the walls! LOL I'm just hoping that with the 2 pressure washings, scrubbing and now the etching, that perhaps I did a little overkill for the Rust Bullet to stick since it seams to be a little more forgiving than epoxy.

 

[benwah]

Rustoleum's etch is a citric acid, not Hydrochloric.