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VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

GETRIDAONE

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May 21, 2013
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Auburn, GA
I got my vise from a guy in north Georgia that deals in blacksmith equipment. He got the vise in Pennsylvania where he bought a whole bunch of blacksmith stuff. It was in OK shape and I just took it apart and cleaned it. I made a pin to keep the head from rotating but I think it involves a spring of some sort ? I haven't tried to figure it out yet.
Google "The Iron Hand" Go to photos on the menu and then "other emmerts". There are a few pictures there and one with detailed photos. I think there were small changes as time went along. I did find an old 1940's catalog where they were still being sold so it might not be as old as you think.
 
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CRSINMICH

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I made a pin to keep the head from rotating but I think it involves a spring of some sort ? I haven't tried to figure it out yet.
Google "The Iron Hand" Go to photos on the menu and then "other emmerts". There are a few pictures there and one with detailed photos. I think there were small changes as time went along. I did find an old 1940's catalog where they were still being sold so it might not be as old as you think.

GET: Joe has an Emmert too. He told me about how to repair/replace that pin. I think I followed what he was saying but you should ask him directly. I got most of my information about Emmerts from The Iron Hand too. If I have anything other than that I'll pass it on. The place where I got it was in operation from before the patent date on the Emmert until sometime in the late 1980's so it could be any age. It doesn't have a center post mount so it's not one of the oldest ones.
 

GETRIDAONE

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I remember Joe said he got it fixed. I sent him measurements / pictures for KMScott to make a new handle and long carriage bolt for him.
 

CRSINMICH

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Do you use yours or is it just a showpiece? It's way more vise than I need but I'm getting a kick out of a historical restoration. I stumbled onto an Emmert Tiger last fall so now I'm going to have to get a pattern maker's vice to complete the set.
 

GETRIDAONE

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It just sits on the floor gathering dust. I have a pattern makers vise that I restored but it is missing the rod and bracket that goes under the bench. I have three cast iron leg work benches that I have no room for right now. I will make the bracket if I ever get the benches in place. I have a 1972 GTO frame in the way at present.
 

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CRSINMICH

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Did you paint yours or leave it natural? I'm thinking ahead to when the vise is ready to reassemble. So far I've found traces of three colors on it. There was a battleship gray and a green that I call shop green. Way underneath everything is a layer of black that looks like japanning or the paint on a Model T, which might be the same thing. If I do paint it I won't do anything dramatic except highlight the lettering.
 

GETRIDAONE

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CRS, The paint is black and has been spray bombed at some point to cover surface rust. The anvil and handles both have paint on them.

VA, The jaw width is 5 1/4" and 80 to 90 lbs. I'm guessing.
 

ganymede

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When removing stubborn jaw pad screws i used to take a small drag link bit, put it on a breaker bar and sandwich it between the jaws. That way the bit couldn't cam out.
I don't have any bits that will fit my 4 1/4 jaw Simplex so I took some steel stock and filed it to fit the screws nice n snug. Sandwiched it between the jaws and used an adjustable.
 

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McBrownie

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When removing stubborn jaw pad screws i used to take a small drag link bit, put it on a breaker bar and sandwich it between the jaws. That way the bit couldn't cam out.
I don't have any bits that will fit my 4 1/4 jaw Simplex so I took some steel stock and filed it to fit the screws nice n snug. Sandwiched it between the jaws and used an adjustable.

Great idea! Use the vise to fix the vise. :thumbup:
 
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drivesitfar

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Gany: great idea.

Get: you share a ton of your vise and tool stuff with us and wondering if you have a garage gallery thread started to show off some of them with all those cars in your garage. i think you said you have 7 Plymouths in your garage and by the looks of that one in the last picture i'm guessing some are a little more complete.

my actual garage at my house is half of a 2 car because my wife's car and craft stuff takes up the other half.

i'm guessing yours is in the basement of your house with maybe one or more garage doors to access it?

anyway you don't have to share, but i for one would love to see your set up and i'm sure the other guys that go to the threads in garage gallery section would too. your choice and thanks again for sharing what you do.

I remember you posting a few pictures of your Prentiss 98 jaws before pictures here and did you post the afters or a bunch of during pics?

thanks

Shift: now that i'm back from the Oregon Coast i'll try to find a few more pictures of cannons to post on your new thread. looks like it could be fun and maybe post a few youtube videos if I (we) can find some.
 

GETRIDAONE

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I had seen that ad before but didn't recall where. Thanks for posting it and J for sending it to you.
I decided I wound fix the pin in the rotating head. I started by cutting the head off a 3/8" carriage bolt then rounding it off. It just needs a slight shoulder so it won't fall in the hole. The other end was cut 1/4" longer to form the round end on the grinder with it mounted in a drill. After 3 - 4 grinds & test fits I smoothed the end with fine sandpaper. The round end had to be just long enough to hold but be able to ride up the shoulder against the spring tension.
 

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bagged89s10

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CT
When removing stubborn jaw pad screws i used to take a small drag link bit, put it on a breaker bar and sandwich it between the jaws. That way the bit couldn't cam out.

I don't have any bits that will fit my 4 1/4 jaw Simplex so I took some steel stock and filed it to fit the screws nice n snug. Sandwiched it between the jaws and used an adjustable.


That's a great idea!
 

02superduty

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Aug 3, 2014
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LI, NY
I just ordered some Kroil for frozen rusted jaw screws. This is the first time I couldn't get them out. I guess I been lucky and easy outs always worked for me. Any advice with the kroil.
 
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drivesitfar

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02: you still might need to drill the screws out by taking either a hand drill or DP and just drilling off the heads. then pull jaws and then take vise grips and un screw the studs. Fretters showed it earlier in this thread and he actually uses a breast BY HAND drill.

for the Kroil maybe best to have the jaws facing up so you'll need the dynamic and static aprart. then spray in a little so it can soak in for an hour or two and apply a few more times every few hours and in a couple days you might give the screws a try. others may have different usage and success with Kroil, PB or the Acy/****** mix and i'll let them post their favorite.

good luck
 

Shiftless

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02: you still might need to drill the screws out by taking either a hand drill or DP and just drilling off the heads. then pull jaws and then take vise grips and un screw the studs. Fretters showed it earlier in this thread and he actually uses a breast BY HAND drill.

for the Kroil maybe best to have the jaws facing up so you'll need the dynamic and static aprart. then spray in a little so it can soak in for an hour or two and apply a few more times every few hours and in a couple days you might give the screws a try. others may have different usage and success with Kroil, PB or the Acy/****** mix and i'll let them post their favorite.

good luck

I had good luck soaking stuck jaw screws (straight slot) with penetrating oil for a few days, squirting in a bit every few hours. Then I cut new oversized slots with a tiny little Dremel ball end cutter. Then I used a cordless impact driver with the right sized straight bit to remove the screws.
Although it is hard to get, I like Kroil the best. But I have also used PB Blaster, Seafoam, and the ATF/acetone mix. Seafoam seems best at surviving high heat.
 

02superduty

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DRIVES and SHIFT Thanks I already drilled out the heads of screws on one side and its been soaking with PB. I like the dremel and impact idea will try for other side. Acy/****** mix interesting. Yeah I broke down and bought the kroil today 8 oz. with shipping $14.99. The rust behind the jaw is the worst I have come across. I will leave it soaking with PB, and try to resist the urge to loosen them until my kroil arrives next week.
Thanks John
 

KMScott

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Daufuskie Island, South Carolina
Sometimes you got to fix them this way. I never used the stuff you guys talk about. My first choice is heat and if it does not work then I do it this way. Does Kroil melt rust?
 

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Shiftless

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Sometimes you got to fix them this way. I never used the stuff you guys talk about. My first choice is heat and if it does not work then I do it this way. Does Kroil melt rust?

Kevin:

I can't really say that Kroil "melts" rust, but it definately loosens up formerly moving parts! Used a lot in industry by guys who can order anything they want using the boss'es money.
 

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02superduty

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So I couldn't wait and was able to free screws after a second night of soaking. Now part of the screw head is rusted inside jaw. Its soaking. Right now I am working on a set of 100 year old iron legs I got from joestriper to make a desk. If I have time I will try shifts dremel idea on the other side.
Thanks guys
 

Evergreentree

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Nov 24, 2015
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Montgomery County PA
Drives-They are dry now, just don't want to post until I get copper rivets,tomorrow. They are still on the vise. (Untrimmed mind you)
 

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Evergreentree

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But here's a question. Never had to repair a ?swivel lock handle?

Just picked up this Hollands, my first. How do you guys make replacements? My idea is heat up round stock, then use a press to flatten the ends....not exactly ascetically pleasing.
 

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drivesitfar

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EG: thanks for posting the leather jaws and looking forward to see the finished product.

as far as you swivel pin goes Joe Striper posted how he made some in this thread maybe 6 to 9 months ago and i'll let him say if you can't find it. Balane and KMScott have made some too and either posted here or on the big vise thread.

good luck and i love Holland's vises.
 

KMScott

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But here's a question. Never had to repair a ?swivel lock handle?

Just picked up this Hollands, my first. How do you guys make replacements? My idea is heat up round stock, then use a press to flatten the ends....not exactly ascetically pleasing.

EverGreen, I wrote a blog on how I do mine. after a couple years of peening swivel handles I just hammer the ends under heat with out a radiused punch. after a while you can get them pretty close. Making a rod clamp is a good idea so you can hold the clamp arm with out bending it. Then spin the handles in a lathe and file the knobs to a shape you like.
Joe showed a different method using a bolt that would work if you do not have lathes. A search of his post and maybe you can find it.
LINK to blog.
 

stitan06

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Dec 31, 2012
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Is there any hope for this vise it used to be my grand paps on his farm in went to look at it today and wanted restore it for myself but found it like this kinda upsetting. Friend of mine said maybe it could be brazed. I don't wanna spend a lot of money on it but what's my options



uploadfromtaptalk1454769379267.jpguploadfromtaptalk1454769395275.jpguploadfromtaptalk1454769415727.jpguploadfromtaptalk1454769428820.jpg


Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
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drivesitfar

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Stitan: one of GJ's members bought my Holland's 15 from me and made a very cool bench for it. he won't sell the vise back to me and i've asked a few times because i haven't found another Holland's 15, 16, 17, 18 or 19 yet.

now that said you should grab grampa's old vise and try to find somebody that has a good static jaw and a broken dynamic jaw that is more common to break. you might have a good dynamic, screw and vise nut so you've got a good start. if you know or can find somebody to braze the static then you'll have a working vise with some good history to use while you are waiting to find a static that isn't damaged.

good luck
 

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Evergreentree

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No km quality, but eg functional. Matches the vintage..

That's what heat, anvil, washers, frame rack, and a hammer does!haha coated with blo

Km-thanks for altering my thought process with it from your blog. I was originally imagining the end product differently then what you suggested, so thanks again!
 

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CRSINMICH

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EG: Here's a picture of my 23 1/2 for comparison. I think you did a pretty dang good job. Quick one too. BTW this is my current fab fave vise. It just feels good using it. Very solid. When the weather warms I think I'm gonna give it a Fretters style finish.
 

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Evergreentree

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Thanks crs, it's no big ash hammer fix...one step up! Haha. By the way, I acquired a copper hammer...

I really dig the little holland. Tight clearances, really great base, and made in pa!

Thanks for the compliment. It only did take 10mins. This vise is no super model. Blue collar worker!
 

stitan06

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Stitan: one of GJ's members bought my Holland's 15 from me and made a very cool bench for it. he won't sell the vise back to me and i've asked a few times because i haven't found another Holland's 15, 16, 17, 18 or 19 yet.

now that said you should grab grampa's old vise and try to find somebody that has a good static jaw and a broken dynamic jaw that is more common to break. you might have a good dynamic, screw and vise nut so you've got a good start. if you know or can find somebody to braze the static then you'll have a working vise with some good history to use while you are waiting to find a static that isn't damaged.

good luck

thanks it moved freely so all that good and i was talking to my mom she said shes pretty sure its her grandpaps so my great grandpaps so a lil more history there im def gonna get it and clean it up see whats there
 
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