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Recommendations on what to coat my new gate with?

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Kzguy2

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Just fabbed up this 7ft high 12'8" wide gate out of mild steel. (Wish i used stainless or galvanized) I used 3 cans of flat black primer and then 3 cans of flat paint and after couple rains, its already starting to rust in a couple spots likes some welds. I was thinking of maybe using Rhino liner or a similar product on it. I just don't want to have to fight rust for the life of the gate and have rust stains on my driveway. Any recommendations? Looking for an ultra tough thick coating that will adhere properly and last a lifetime! Thanks guys!

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schmelpboy

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In my experience, any area that receives wear, like the hinges, will rust no matter what you put on it. Each time you open the gates, things rub, and will take paint, primer, rhinoliner, etc right off. The metal is just going to scrape away at it. The best way to keep the hinges on my gates from showing rust is to immediately grease, and overgrease them. That way even though the hinges rub things, it just moves the grease back and forth each time the gates open and close, and water doesn't get to any bare metal. I can't speak for the rest of the gate, as mine are aluminum with steel hinges.
 
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astroracer

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Your issue is the flat paint. Flat paint doesn't seal the metal. It allows moisture to wick though to the base material. You need to strip it down and use a good quality epoxy primer, black would work well, followed by a good quality epoxy top coat. Sandblast the rust to get rid of it and then clean the metal with laquer thinner prior to priming.
Look at Eastwoods site for some quality chassis black paint. That is about the best thing you can get out of a spray can.
Mark
 
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Kzguy2

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404

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Where do you live that a padlock is needed on your heating oil fill?

That is a really nice gate. Well done.
 
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Kzguy2

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404 said:
Where do you live that a padlock is needed on your heating oil fill?

That is a really nice gate. Well done.
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Lol, good question. Morrisville pa. Its not a bad area, i just put it on for piece of mind. Two possible scenarios that i could see happening: Some ******* that has beef with me pouring sugar/ water in it. Or somebody backing into my driveway with a van and pumping out all my oil. In either case they could just cut the copper Fill tube. However at least I would know somebody tampered with it versus having a screw on cap I would never know. I also installed a couple pins in the pipe in the basement to prevent siphoning or pumping out. Haha. I tend to overkill everything

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LXCam

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I'm with Astro on what happens with the flat black. But I used Krylon semiflat black on all my iron work and the finish lasted several years before I started getting rust thru and fade. Matter of fact most of it has been in place for going on 15 years and it's finally time to repaint all of it.
 
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Kzguy2

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LXCam said:
I'm with Astro on what happens with the flat black. But I used Krylon semiflat black on all my iron work and the finish lasted several years before I started getting rust thru and fade. Matter of fact most of it has been in place for going on 15 years and it's finally time to repaint all of it.
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Yea i totally agree with you guys on the flat black paint. I thought it looked better and covered up the imperfections in my welds, so i went with it. But after seeing slight surface rust in areas already I'm definitely going to take the boards back off and recoat it with probably Rhino liner since I have a couple gallons laying around.

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Angelfire

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My own personal experience shows the POR15 route to be ****. I used it on a number of pieces for my jeep and followed every step including their metal prep....the **** peeled off in sheets. I also have not had very good luck with the Eastwood chassis paint (I used their ceramic version)....seems tough enough but it oxidized and is now a dusty mess. Contacted them and there was very little useful help from them. Personally, I'd be in the mind of using an epoxy primer and possibly an epoxy topcoat of some sort but make sure the topcoat is UV proof/resistant. I've used epoxy primer and was well impressed but haven't tried a top coat in it. The other option is to hit up a place like tractor supply and use their farm implement paint or similar. I'm not sure you'd be happy with a rhino line type of coating....it'll be tough for sure but will collect dirt and is difficult to clean.
 
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Kzguy2

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I definitely agree with you on the por15. Comes off in sheets is right! Im leaning toward good old fashioned Rustoleum flat black or satin. And yea your right that rhinoliner would def get dirty.

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Colin Len

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Sorry that this is off topic... but I was wondering how you attached the wood boards to the metal frame - just pilot holes in both the metal and wood then secured with self taping screws? I have an existing metal gate that I want to re-face with wood for a new (better) look and am unsure of the best plan of attack.
 
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Kzguy2

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Colin Len said:
Sorry that this is off topic... but I was wondering how you attached the wood boards to the metal frame - just pilot holes in both the metal and wood then secured with self taping screws? I have an existing metal gate that I want to re-face with wood for a new (better) look and am unsure of the best plan of attack.
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I used winged steel self tap screws

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Nexussian

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Kzguy2 said:
I dont have alot of experience with powder coating. Does it protect the metal as good as a thick oil based paint?

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If it's done right, yes.

If they talk about only needing the color coat and no etch or primer (preferably zinc rich) then you are talking to the wrong people for what you want.

By the time you blast, etch, prime and color it may be beyond your desired budget.

Cost and the inability to repair the coating in place are the only downsides I've found with powder coating.

If there isn't mechanical damage (piercing or abrading through the coating) you should not have any need to repair it.


Nice looking fence. :)


Only time I had problems with the POR products was when I tried painting with the part too cold.

Below 70° F and the stuff comes off just like you mention (I've found it flows and sticks best above 80° YMMV).
 
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Randy in Maine

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Kzguy2 said:
I dont have alot of experience with powder coating. Does it protect the metal as good as a thick oil based paint?

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Powdercoating works well until it gets a scratch, then the bond is broken.

I think I would use a wheel paint.
 
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