VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

[Shiftless]

LX, I'd say go for it, since it sounds like you can do the work yourself. Minimal cost, and it would be a working vise again done right. If you can't use it maybe someone else in the family or your kids?

Outlaw is right. Restore it for somebody else if you have the time and the inclination. I have worked on at least 4 vises that I have bought and then given away to deserving people. What goes around comes around.

If you want to get rid of it, I will be in L.A. next weekend. I have possibly interesting trades. PM me if you want to go that route instead.

 

[daxjenson]

Good Sir
Are you still looking for a Chas Parker 978?
I just happen to have one. I see you live in Three Rivers Mich. I used to live in Kalamazoo. I also used to play in bands at a bar called "Sam's place" in Three Rivers on the out skirts of town. I doubt Sam is still alive as she was old when I played there but you never know. I have a lot of great memories of that crazy place. Anyways. Let me know. Douglas

 

[Shiftless]

Good Sir
Are you still looking for a Chas Parker 978?
I just happen to have one. I see you live in Three Rivers Mich. I used to live in Kalamazoo. I also used to play in bands at a bar called "Sam's place" in Three Rivers on the out skirts of town. I doubt Sam is still alive as she was old when I played there but you never know. I have a lot of great memories of that crazy place. Anyways. Let me know. Douglas

That is certainly a tantalizing first post.
Welcome to the board but you should really post some pictures of that monster 300 pound Parker.
Be aware also that it is against the regs to offer stuff for sale here. Classified is the place to go and you have to have 100 posts or more to participate.

 

[mroneeyedboh]

I ended up getting the dynmaic jaw out. I messed with it for a while and said he'll with it. I used a 2x4 and banged it out, it came out and to find out, the slide was mushroomed a hair. Juussst enough to hand it up within the static jaw/ slide area. All in all its good now.

I got all 4 layers of paint off via glass bead and tomorrow is polishing and etch primer.

Does anyone know the correct color of an 804 1/2 Charles Parker?

 

[Shiftless]

I ended up getting the dynmaic jaw out. I messed with it for a while and said he'll with it. I used a 2x4 and banged it out, it came out and to find out, the slide was mushroomed a hair. Juussst enough to hand it up within the static jaw/ slide area. All in all its good now.

I got all 4 layers of paint off via glass bead and tomorrow is polishing and etch primer.

Does anyone know the correct color of an 804 1/2 Charles Parker?

Risky move to use the BFH but it looks like it worked and the vise survived. Parkers are certainly tough!
As far as color goes, my Parker 956 seems to have traces of original dark bluish green or is it greenish blue?

 

[unashamedlaborer]

I currently own a Wilton 450sj vice that is is working order, and have a line on a second one. Trouble is the acme thread nut and retaining pins are missing...... Is this part available or is it going to have to be machined? I am not sure of the interchangeability since these swivel jaws are a bit of a rare bird.
Thanks.

 

[Evergreentree]

unash-- I have a Wilton sj I needed help with. Mines a little older, and different, so I won't be a help, But these pros walked me through everything. Good luck!

 

[Evergreentree]

Internals of my sj if it helps that part of your journey

 

[Evergreentree]

http://www.wiltontools.com/us/en/home/

They do have some available repop parts. I'd inquire there at some point, after the pros chime in!

 

[CwazyWabbit]

Hello folks,
Wilton tech support sent me here. They can't find my vise in their books and they said you guys are geniuses. I have two identical rotating Wilton vises. Probably from the mid 60s. One side is a flat 7" wood vice, roll it around and there is a 4 " pipe type vice. There are three horizontal parts in the rotating bearing, a screw and two rods. On the bearing housing there is a 1.5" x 2" cube in the casting. On both of these vises I'm missing the part/mechanism that fits in that 1.5" x 2" through hole that I assume keeps the vise from rotating. In that cube there is a large hole that you can see in the pics. On the back side of the cube there is a small threaded hole.
I don't see how it might work because the interior seems to be smooth but I'm hoping some of you may know. Maybe some kind of expanding screw of some kind? Do you have the parts or even a picture that I can possibly fab them myself? Thanks. Each casting has a different # on it. The bearing housing has 181081 10 on it.
Thanks

When you rotate the vise are there any notches visible through the hole where the missing bits go? I only ask as an old advert I saw said it was lockable in two positions ...... which made me wonder.

I am surprised nobody has posted pictures of the missing parts yet, perhaps post your question in the main vise thread as it has many more eyes on it

 

[Shiftless]

Regarding Wilton swivel jaw locking pins

I just found an excellent picture of one on a vise for sale ($500) on C/L somewhere in Delaware.
I assume this is all original.

 

[Provincial]

I apologize for not reading through all 137 pages, but am going to ask a question that may have already been answered:

Has anyone used an induction heater, like a Mini Ductor II, to try to unstick the locking pin on a rear swivel jaw? It seems like that might be a pretty good application for this tool.

 

[Outlawmws]

Not that I've heard, but I think I agree...

 

[CwazyWabbit]

Any risk of the expansion of the pin cracking the jaw?

 

[Outlawmws]

Possible? Yes. Probable? I doubt it, as the surrounding metal will also get some of the heat (no way to avoid it...) we are talking maybe 10 thou or so, and assuming the surrounding cast didn't change with...

 

[Z3K3Y]

Hello everyone. new to this forum. Ive read a bit on restoring vices. but dont have electrolysis .. just sandpaper and elbow grease. I bought this Woden 186b 1 this morning and im looking for pointers on where to get started with it. http://imgur.com/a/w3yxJ

Can anyone confirm this is pre 1960 ? and from my research it was originally dark blue. im going to get some hammered finish paint today at crappy tire

 

[kerr]

Lots of good stuff . Enjoy the help threads alot .

 

[Outlawmws]

Hello everyone. new to this forum. Ive read a bit on restoring vices. but dont have electrolysis .. just sandpaper and elbow grease. I bought this Woden 186b 1 this morning and im looking for pointers on where to get started with it. http://imgur.com/a/w3yxJ

Can anyone confirm this is pre 1960 ? and from my research it was originally dark blue. im going to get some hammered finish paint today at crappy tire

Sandpaper is NOT the way to prep as-cast and machined surfaces on a vise, you will do more damage than good.

If you don't want to use an E-tank, you can use paint stripper for the paint a hand wire brush on the more resistant paint, and there are lots of options for the rust, like a Molasses and water solution (Slow), Evaporust (Faster, but not instant), Wire wheel on a min grinder and or drill, Phosphoric acid (Jasco metal etch)...

 

[CRSINMICH]

Here is a blast from the past – literally. From the May, 1917 issue of American Machinists magazine this article is how to make a Cannon for Removing Rusted Bolts. They mean an actual cannon. It’s a little hard to make out some of the words so I typed it out. Finally, a foolproof method for dealing with stuck swivel pins. Caution: Remember to use this method ONLY during lunch break.

CANNON FOR REMOVING RUSTED BOLTS.​

By Joseph K. Long
American Machinist May, 1917​

When repairing locomotives in the shop, it is necessary to remove dozens of bolts, take frames apart, cylinders off, etc. Some of these are in so tight that they cannot be driven out with a sledge, and often they have to be drilled out.

The cannon, illustrated herewith, will take tight bolts out in a hurry. To the left of the diagram are shown a top and sectional view of the device, the fuse hole, and the depression at the bottom. The plungers are 1/16 in. less in diameter than the bore of the cannon, which is 2¼ in. Paper is wrapped around the plunger to make it airtight.

The plunger with the reduced-sized end is used where a bolt is broken off flush with the frame. The diameter is such that it will enter the hole when the explosion takes place and loosen the bolt. After it is once started, the bolt comes out easily. The flat end plunger is used where the ends of a bolt protrude. Care must be taken when using this outfit to see that the plunger, when set in on top of the powder, is tight against the offending bolt. This is easily done by driving a wedge under the cannon, but it must be set squarely. No tamping is necessary, as the paper wrapped round the plunger answers the purpose.
It is best to use this cannon during the noon hour, when there are not so many men in the shop, and to put heavy blocking around it and on top of the bolt, so that the bolt will not fly or the cannon do any injury. The man using the “gun” should have a helper who will keep everyone away while the cannon is doing its work. This contrivance is a good thing to have, and I have never heard of any one being hurt, as the necessary precautions are always taken. We use smokeless powder from about ⅝ to 1 in. deep in the cannon.

 

[Shiftless]

CRS:
Love it!
"Ideas from practical men" Fantastic!
I like the understated warnings about safety precautions. The author had never heard of anybody getting hurt using a black powder blasting tool so therefore it must be safe!
Anybody on this board working with OSHA?

 

[Outlawmws]

It wasn't Black powder; Last line:

We use smokeless powder from about ⅝ to 1 in. deep in the cannon.

 

[toolferone]

I just picked up a Wilton vise on CL for $75.00. It has 101160 on the body. Looks like the 350S. I have torn it down and stripped all the old paint. There is no number on the bottom rail like I see on earlier posts. I have this on the back of the rear cap.



Does that have any useful info on it?

Here are some before and during pics.



Found this this blue under the surface dirt and crud.




Here is all cleaned up with a brass wire wheel on th angle grinder.

 

[CRSINMICH]

CRS:
Love it!
"Ideas from practical men" Fantastic!
I like the understated warnings about safety precautions. The author had never heard of anybody getting hurt using a black powder blasting tool so therefore it must be safe!
Anybody on this board working with OSHA?

Shift: There are many other Ideas from Practical Men in this article. The Bolt Removing Cannon was the first that came up. I'll comb through some more to see what might be of interest. How about a home-made forcing press?

Edit: For some reason the illustration for the Bolt Removing Cannon did not come through in the Vise thread. In case the same thing happened on this thread, here is another attempt:

 

[toolferone]

Sorry I am off by one post. I did not understand until just now what was meant.

Anyway here is my new to me Wilton vise. It is Safety Blue in color. I could not be more happy the way it turned out.

 

[drivesitfar]

Toolfeorne: what are you wanting to know? if you take a look at the bottom of the dynamic jaw on the key way it should have a date stamped on it and posting a picture of would help us on our Wilton date stamp thread we have ongoing.

what is the width of the jaws when closed will help us maybe give you a model # of the vise because 101160 just a part #.

welcome to the forum and nice first few posts and great looking restoration of that quality Wilton bullet.

 

[vertguy]

I finally got around to modifying a brass freeze plug to replace the missing dust cap on my 3.5 inch. So I scrounged around the garage for some way to put a dome into the flat plug and I found a large cap screw with a 1.25 inch head. After smoothing the head a bit on the cap screw, I started slowly tapping the inside of the plug with it resting in a large socket (36mm to be exact). Although a 1.5 inch head cap screw would have worked better, I went with what was available.

I plan to paint it later, but another fun little project complete.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Great minds think alike. !! Nice job

 

[Outlawmws]

Why paint? Just polish it with Mother's

 

[toolferone]

Toolfeorne: what are you wanting to know? if you take a look at the bottom of the dynamic jaw on the key way it should have a date stamped on it and posting a picture of would help us on our Wilton date stamp thread we have ongoing.

what is the width of the jaws when closed will help us maybe give you a model # of the vise because 101160 just a part #.

welcome to the forum and nice first few posts and great looking restoration of that quality Wilton bullet.

There is no date code stamped on the bottom like everybody else. I looked very hard for it. I thought maybe the numbers on the back cap might help. The jaws are 3-1/2" wide which makes it a model 350 I believe. Thank you!

 

[Shiftless]

toolfeorne:
Maybe it's just a coincidence, but the latest bullet added to my collection, a 350 like yours, is also lacking a date stamping. I figured it was just worn out but your finding makes me wonder.

 

[toolferone]

I finally got around to modifying a brass freeze plug to replace the missing dust cap on my 3.5 inch. So I scrounged around the garage for some way to put a dome into the flat plug and I found a large cap screw with a 1.25 inch head. After smoothing the head a bit on the cap screw, I started slowly tapping the inside of the plug with it resting in a large socket (36mm to be exact). Although a 1.5 inch head cap screw would have worked better, I went with what was available.

I plan to paint it later, but another fun little project complete.

That came out great! Nice job.

 

[Fordriver6]

toolfeorne:
Maybe it's just a coincidence, but the latest bullet added to my collection, a 350 like yours, is also lacking a date stamping. I figured it was just worn out but your finding makes me wonder.

That C1 I just got is also lacking the date stamping. I was gonna drive the pins out and flip it over and see if somebody put it back together upside down.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[drivesitfar]

FR: I doubt your key was flipped and more likely the date stamp wore off. a lot of Wilton bullet vises were sold to government and used in public school's shops so they had a lot of use. if you want to confirm and take it off and flip it to see I won't stop you, but just saying usually the ones without a date are the old Patent or Chicago stamped ones.

Vert: nicely done. did you put the socket in the vise with the bolt setting in it and then put the flat brass freeze plug on it to put that nice shape on it. I can't quite figure how you could tighten the nuts on so maybe you can take another picture showing us if you have time.

Get: I remember you doing your brass plug, but can't recall how you made it round shaped. do tell? also I think I tried to let you know it looked awesome as is and I think you wanted to paint it. did you paint it?

Tool: if your Wilton doesn't have a date stamp i'd guess it was because it was well used like I mentioned in the above post to FR. if more pop up without dates in our date stamping thread that I started, but Bluebolt took a lot of time compiling the data then we'll maybe rethink the no date. for now i'd say just well used at some shop probably in a school.

 

[kentenn]

Emmert Patternmaker's Vise - Picked this up off CL. Approx 100 years old. Had it welded in a couple of places. Handiest vise I've ever used.

 

[kentenn]

Emmert After Competition...

 

[McBrownie]

Emmert After Competition...

Kent,

What a great job on a super nice vise. How did you attach the leather (I assume it's leather) to the jaws?

 

[kentenn]

I just used contact cement. Periodically I have to re-apply when leather starts coming loose.

 

[vertguy]

Vert: nicely done. did you put the socket in the vise with the bolt setting in it and then put the flat brass freeze plug on it to put that nice shape on it. I can't quite figure how you could tighten the nuts on so maybe you can take another picture showing us if you have time.

No pics... but I simply sat the freeze plug in the open end of the socket on the bench (cup facing up) and tapped on the carriage bolt double nut with a hammer. Not a perfect way as the freeze plug wants to move around and I had to re-center the carriage bolt head each time before tapping it. A machined convex piece of stock and slightly larger carriage bolt head or equivalent would make this real easy... especially for these brass plugs.

 

[drivesitfar]

Vert: I was thinking you put the bolt in from the other end. thinking that maybe the square fit of the bolt would fit nicely in the ratchet's spot so it wouldn't move around. you did a fantastic job and maybe it will be easier from the other side next time if you get the right size bolts.

thanks

Ken: nice looking Emmert vise and thanks for sharing. I have one that is needing my attention and a bench to use it on that is sitting in "ONE" of my storage units.

cheers

 

[kentenn]

Ken: nice looking Emmert vise and thanks for sharing. I have one that is needing my attention and a bench to use it on that is sitting in "ONE" of my storage units.

cheers

"ONE of my storage units"...Ha!*


* As an interesting twist, after all this talk about the storage unit, I got a letter in the mail today...They're raising my rent $10/month...