VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

[drivesitfar]

MR: there are many pin changes for Wilton in this thread and i think KMScott showed his version on the vise thread last week. do a search for Wilton bullet vises and some should come up. not sure why Wilton didn't make them easier to remove and replace in the first place. once you change them so you can screw the pins in and out it makes it very easy to clean and re grease. good luck

Jeremy: the Wilton C0 pipe jaws you need look like this, but sorry haven't found a measurement yet.

 

[mroneeyedboh]

Yeah I found that but that requires me to turn down the set screws on a lathe. I don't have access to one anymore.

 

[Mohawk Dave]

Yesterday I picked up my very first big vise. I posted pics of some of the others I saw on the vises post. This is the one I bought. Mostly bcuz it was the only one he was selling.
I know it to be a 182#, 7" swivel jaw. I believe it is a Prentiss (thx to Crsinmich for help with ID), but it has no brand marked on it.
My question is : How do I repair the swivel jaw? The seller was unaware that it swiveled until I pointed it out to him. The pin hole goes thru to the inside. I plan to make a custom screw Jack to apply some force to the bottom of the pin. The top of the pin is so mangled that I cannot tell if it is welded or just hammered beyond recognition. I am considering building a big electrolysis tank (garbage can sized) and stripping it. Will that loosen a stuck pin? Has anyone attempted a loading the pin with a screw jack and putting the body in the tank with the pin under pressure? Did Prentiss even use a tapered pin? I know some brands threaded the pins...is the vise even a Prentiss?

The last 6" swivel we did: we couldn't use one taper punch as it was too cockeyed coming through the bottom. So we placed a correct sized chunk of steel (cylinder) at the pin, and then used a punch to hit the side of that one. It worked with a couple swings of a single jack.

But that wrench turner is mo betta!

 

[Jcrapola]

Yeah I found that but that requires me to turn down the set screws on a lathe. I don't have access to one anymore.

forgive me, I have not had one apart... but I think i have the gist of it. Have you considered dog point set screws? Tap the holes all the way thru the body, and let the point engage the end part...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#dog-point-set-screws/=118yj8f

scroll down for extended point... Might work without a lathe (Realize I have no idea what I am talking about... but, what the hell, this is the internet!)

jeremy: I have a 1970s era C0. If you do not get an answer, I will dig out the pipe jaws and measure them this weekend.

 

[JeremyBurke]

JC: thanks for the offer. Hopefully someone has a print, but I would appreciate anything. Come to think of it I will need the clips as well.

 

[KMScott]

Re: VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the trick...

Does anyone have a print /drawing of Wilton C0 pipe jaws they could share with me? Specifically the kind that are held in with a spring. I have an opportunity to trade for one that is missing the jaws. I would like to see if I could make them. Unfortunately rev Scott doesn't seem to sell that style and I am cheap and have access to an mill.

Hey Jeremy, Here is what I use when I make the small pipe jaws. The Reeds and Wiltons are real close to the same specs and pretty sure built by the same company back in the day. I just adjust my position when picking up the 1/2 inch roll pin. Use a regular end mill and hit the numbers. The spring should be centered and tied in with a 1/4:20 screw. Good luck.

 

[Hemi49]

Does anyone have any suggestions for new Wilton rear pins that hold the rear large cap on? It's the two that you have to drive out using a pin punch.

Mr
I just bought a length of drill rod and cut my own....if they turned out a bit loose in the hole, just whack the side of them in a few places with a ***** punch and tap them back in.....
Hemi

 

[drivesitfar]

MR: you should be able to search this thread and see where guys have just chucked a allen head screw in their DP and used a file to make a pin out of the end. or a few just took the threads off on their grinder. that way you can screw in and out the pin the next time.

good luck

KM: thanks for the drawing and i saved to my laptop in case i or another member needs them later.

 

[JeremyBurke]

Re: VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the trick...

Hey Jeremy, Here is what I use when I make the small pipe jaws. The Reeds and Wiltons are real close to the same specs and pretty sure built by the same company back in the day. I just adjust my position when picking up the 1/2 inch roll pin. Use a regular end mill and hit the numbers. The spring should be centered and tied in with a 1/4:20 screw. Good luck.

Thanks so much rev. Scott. Just to be sure the vise I am looking at getting is a Wilton C0 does it have the same jaws as the c1 and 2c that you shared a print for? Again thank you for your help.

 

[mroneeyedboh]

Thanks all.

 

[KMScott]

Jeremy, I screwed up and added the C1 jaws drawing instead of the C0. The cutting sketch is what I use for both Reed 1C and Wilton C0. Reed and Wilton are real close to the same size and teeth geometry.

 

[Outlawmws]

Yeah I found that but that requires me to turn down the set screws on a lathe. I don't have access to one anymore.

Get that set screw and:

• a round sleeve threaded the same thread
• screw in the set screw and lock it in with a jam nut
• chuck it into a drill, (careful if you try this with a DP - chucks on a taper don't like side loads)
• run the treads to be removed with a flat file while its spinning until the threads are gone...
• And Bob's your uncle.

 

[Hemi49]

Straightening Vise Handles

I have wanted a good way of straightening bent vise handles......A few weeks ago I bought a HF 20 ton shop press which I finally assembled today.....It was about $159.00 with a 20% off coupon.....Assembly was uneventful with everything lining up and working properly......I'll repost pictures when I straighten some handles......I have some 40 odd vises and a fair number have handles that need attention......
Hemi

 

[GETRIDAONE]

I bought a little 6 ton one at a garage sale for $20 bucks. I have only used it on 1/2" and smaller. I guess the bigger ones are not as easy to bend so l haven't had a need to try it on anything larger. It got used today to straighten this small one.
Your vise count is going up, your are going to have to build some more shelves

 

[mroneeyedboh]

Does anyone know how to remove the dynamic jaw on a Chas. Parker? Is mine just stuck?

 

[Outlawmws]

It should just unscrew, and out.

Pics of the slide (looking for abuse/damage), or are the threads on the end of he main screw buggered and holding it up?

 

[Mohawk Dave]

Straightening Vise Handles

I have wanted a good way of straightening bent vise handles......A few weeks ago I bought a HF 20 ton shop press which I finally assembled today.....It was about $159.00 with a 20% off coupon.....Assembly was uneventful with everything lining up and working properly......I'll repost pictures when I straighten some handles......I have some 40 odd vises and a fair number have handles that need attention......
Hemi

Read up on this. http://www.swagoffroad.com/Arbor-Press-Plates_p_7.html

 

[mroneeyedboh]

It should just unscrew, and out.

Pics of the slide (looking for abuse/damage), or are the threads on the end of he main screw buggered and holding it up?

All looks well. It's an 804 1/2, so it's pretty old. It can with the old wilton from Delaware, so it's been sitting and slightly abused in terms of care.

I may use some wood and a hammer to drive the slide out.

 

[Outlawmws]

Close the jaws, and wire wheel the slide. then look for high spots. (use a straight edge)

If you find any, flat file or stone them flat before you try to muscle it.

If you DON'T find any, use calipers to see if the thing is the same width/height all the way.

If it passes all that, clean the threads and try it upside down and see if you can find a bad spot in the screw.

DON'T start pounding on it, You risk breaking something...

 

[mroneeyedboh]

I'll report back tomorrow

 

[Hemi49]

Read up on this. http://www.swagoffroad.com/Arbor-Press-Plates_p_7.html

Mohawk
Thanks for the information.....HF, to my knowledge, has discontinued using cast iron press plates.....the two plates that came with mine are flame cut from steel plate....I concur with your message....I worked around presses up to 2,750 tons and when something lets go it is disastrous....

Get
I hear you.....I had no room in my garage for the press....So I assembled it in the basement......When I have to straighten a handle I'll have to lug it down there...
Hemi

 

[Shiftless]

Close the jaws, and wire wheel the slide. then look for high spots. (use a straight edge)

If you find any, flat file or stone them flat before you try to muscle it.

If you DON'T find any, use calipers to see if the thing is the same width/height all the way.

If it passes all that, clean the threads and try it upside down and see if you can find a bad spot in the screw.

DON'T start pounding on it, You risk breaking something...

Outlaw knows what he's talking about.

 

[unnet]

Hello folks,
Wilton tech support sent me here. They can't find my vise in their books and they said you guys are geniuses. I have two identical rotating Wilton vises. Probably from the mid 60s. One side is a flat 7" wood vice, roll it around and there is a 4 " pipe type vice. There are three horizontal parts in the rotating bearing, a screw and two rods. On the bearing housing there is a 1.5" x 2" cube in the casting. On both of these vises I'm missing the part/mechanism that fits in that 1.5" x 2" through hole that I assume keeps the vise from rotating. In that cube there is a large hole that you can see in the pics. On the back side of the cube there is a small threaded hole.
I don't see how it might work because the interior seems to be smooth but I'm hoping some of you may know. Maybe some kind of expanding screw of some kind? Do you have the parts or even a picture that I can possibly fab them myself? Thanks. Each casting has a different # on it. The bearing housing has 181081 10 on it.
Thanks

 

[Shiftless]

unnet:
welcome!
You've come to the right place for help.
If you're curious about vises in general, I recommend you check out the main vise thread. It is over 2000 pages long by now.

And add your location to your profile. It is amazing how often guys are close enough to make trades or help in some other way. I live in the San Francisco Bay Area.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44782&page=2077

 

[CwazyWabbit]

Hello folks,
Wilton tech support sent me here. They can't find my vise in their books and they said you guys are geniuses. I have two identical rotating Wilton vises. Probably from the mid 60s. One side is a flat 7" wood vice, roll it around and there is a 4 " pipe type vice. There are three horizontal parts in the rotating bearing, a screw and two rods. On the bearing housing there is a 1.5" x 2" cube in the casting. On both of these vises I'm missing the part/mechanism that fits in that 1.5" x 2" through hole that I assume keeps the vise from rotating. In that cube there is a large hole that you can see in the pics. On the back side of the cube there is a small threaded hole.
I don't see how it might work because the interior seems to be smooth but I'm hoping some of you may know. Maybe some kind of expanding screw of some kind? Do you have the parts or even a picture that I can possibly fab them myself? Thanks. Each casting has a different # on it. The bearing housing has 181081 10 on it.
Thanks

Just guessing here but it is probably missing a cylinder with a chamfered end that would be the diameter of the large hole. As you tighten a bolt into the threaded hole it would pull the chamfer of the cylinder against the rotating part of the vise and lock it. I've probably explained that very badly ... it's similar to some bench drill quill locks.

 

[CwazyWabbit]

Found a picture of one on an old eBay auction which sort of shows what I was on about, obviously you can't see the chamfered end in the picture.



BTW pretty certain that is classed as a patternmakers vise.


EDIT 1960's sounds about right, this seems to be the patent for that design http://www.google.co.uk/patents/US3007358

 

[CwazyWabbit]

Seems there are at least 3 members of the forum with them, Tedsters, Rancherbill and Fugio. From the weird wilton thread http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=271403

Couple of other pictures of the handle ....

 

[ssdave]

Hello folks,
Wilton tech support sent me here. They can't find my vise in their books and they said you guys are geniuses. I have two identical rotating Wilton vises. Probably from the mid 60s. One side is a flat 7" wood vice, roll it around and there is a 4 " pipe type vice. There are three horizontal parts in the rotating bearing, a screw and two rods. On the bearing housing there is a 1.5" x 2" cube in the casting. On both of these vises I'm missing the part/mechanism that fits in that 1.5" x 2" through hole that I assume keeps the vise from rotating. In that cube there is a large hole that you can see in the pics. On the back side of the cube there is a small threaded hole.
I don't see how it might work because the interior seems to be smooth but I'm hoping some of you may know. Maybe some kind of expanding screw of some kind? Do you have the parts or even a picture that I can possibly fab them myself? Thanks. Each casting has a different # on it. The bearing housing has 181081 10 on it.
Thanks

I have an identical vise, couldn't find any info or parts for it a few months ago, so I built some parts for it myself. Here's the link: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4875089#post4875089

One picture shows the lever on mine to lock it. Unfortunately, it's packed up and I don't know where it is at the moment in my storage. I can look when I start unpacking some stuff.

Here's another link to a different page I posted on it, but it doesn't show the critical view either. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4861401#post4861401

 

[CwazyWabbit]

I'll just carry on spamming away here

Here's a picture of the quill lock from my drill, you need to make the left hand part (of the one at the bottom of the picture) in suitable size for your vise..... this is just to give you an idea of what I was rambling about earlier

 

[CwazyWabbit]

I have an identical vise, couldn't find any info or parts for it a few months ago, so I built some parts for it myself. Here's the link: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4875089#post4875089

One picture shows the lever on mine to lock it. Unfortunately, it's packed up and I don't know where it is at the moment in my storage. I can look when I start unpacking some stuff.

Here's another link to a different page I posted on it, but it doesn't show the critical view either. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4861401#post4861401

Yours seems to be slightly different in that the main housing is split and the bolt/handle pulls the two halves together to lock it whereas the other type doesn't have a split housing.

 

[unnet]

Cwazywabbit,
Yup, that looks like the vise. Is the picture of the quill lock what is in the vise? Do you have a picture of what's in the vice or is that a sealed enclosure?
Thanks for your help

 

[CwazyWabbit]

unnet the picture of the quill lock is what I think is in the vise, well the left half of quill lock.

I've not been able to find a picture of the actual parts.

 

[autopts]

I don't remember if I ever mentioned it but many of the Wilton parts are interchangeable for example there was a EBay listing not long ago on a Wilton 450sj without the threaded nut in the housing. I sold him one from a 9400 with no problems. Spindles and nuts and front collars are all interchangeable for the 9400,9450' 101028/101033, 400S, 450S. And C1 and If memory serves me right, even the 1760 & 1765 all take the same parts. The only difference is the length of the threaded spindle. And of coarse, all the swivel bases are the same except on the Tradesman 1755' 1760 & 1765 which take the cleats below and not a center ring. Also the newer style base assemblies will replace the very old180 degree swivel bases on Chicago vises. Thought I'd mention all this before I forget it. Hahaha

 

[Fordriver6]

I don't remember if I ever mentioned it but many of the Wilton parts are interchangeable for example there was a EBay listing not long ago on a Wilton 450sj without the threaded nut in the housing. I sold him one from a 9400 with no problems. Spindles and nuts and front collars are all interchangeable for the 9400,9450' 101028/101033, 400S, 450S. And C1 and If memory serves me right, even the 1760 & 1765 all take the same parts. The only difference is the length of the threaded spindle. And of coarse, all the swivel bases are the same except on the Tradesman 1755' 1760 & 1765 which take the cleats below and not a center ring. Also the newer style base assemblies will replace the very old180 degree swivel bases on Chicago vises. Thought I'd mention all this before I forget it. Hahaha

Good to know. I'm looking for a swivel base for a Wilton 840 and asked a question about newer bases in the Vise Parts Interchange thread. Thanks for the info. [emoji106]

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[KMScott]

Thanks Nick, very useful info.

 

[LXCam]

Welp fella's, I need some guidance here. I'm sure the answers are already posted in this thread, but I hope you'll forgive me for not combing through 2700 posts.

This was a hammered Athol my deceased FIL had at home. As you can see she's got a nice crack on the support and ya it goes all the wat through. Is it worth fixing?. I can remove and pin it and weld it with nickel rod and peen the finish so it looks ok. But am I wasting my time or do any of you have a better suggestion?.

Thanks, Cam

And if I go down this road I'll need Kevins help once again. The jaws are gone and the handle has seen much better days.

 

[Shiftless]

autopts:
Yes, useful info indeed. I saved your post to my hard drive for future reference.
I have only one swivel base but have 4 bullets. 3, 3 1/2, 4, and 5
And a big base that fits the 4 or the 5.

LX:

Athol vises are some of the most rugged ones around. Somebody musta been beating on that poor guy awfully hard to crack the shelf.
Unless there is tremendous sentimental value, I wouldn't go too far. You could do a cosmetic fix and leave the jaws alone and consider it a display piece. It is a pretty vise. I have one (unrestored 614) in my modest little collection.

 

[drivesitfar]

LX: if you are able to do the braze or weld to put that crack in order i'd say go for it. it looks like the swivel pins are missing so check your FIL's bench for them because odd to have them both gone. also are the jaws missing or just smooth and used? since the vise will be a user and not worth a lot as a collectable or seller i might not replace the jaws and just make or buy jaw covers.

yes old Athols are some of the best made vises like Shift mentioned and he must have had a BFH after something in it's jaws to cause that break.

AutoPts: thanks for the heads up and information on the Wiltons.

 

[LXCam]

Yes one of the pins is missing and the jaws are gone. It really doesn't hold any sentimental value to anyone to be honest. And I have no use for a vise I can't use. I barely have enough room for the tools I do use. The swivel base is in perfect shape. If someone is interested in the parts, please let me know. I'd rather it be an organ donor then just a meer corpse with lipstick.

 

[Outlawmws]

LX, I'd say go for it, since it sounds like you can do the work yourself. Minimal cost, and it would be a working vise again done right. If you can't use it maybe someone else in the family or your kids?