Show Me Homebuilt Storage Cabinets

[sledneck32!]

Ok Ive been doing a lot of browsing and having a hard time finding what Im looking for.

I want to build cabinets in my new shop. Roughly 22-24" deep so that i can fit storage totes inside. Havent decided if theyll start from the floor and go up, or if theyll start a couple feet off the floor and be supported from the ceiling. That would allow me to store misc stuff like gas cans underneath. I have my stuff piled up haphazardly on shelves for now, but it drives me nuts looking at clutter and everything having 1/4" of dust on it.

I don't want regular cabinet boxes. I want passthru from one box to the other. Like u could crawl in one end door and come out the other. That way it'll be able to fit long items in there such as the stand for my miter saw.

Im debating building the frame outta plywood and regular 2x4. Then face it off with nicer wood and "store bought" doors, maybe face mount.

Or else I could build the frame maybe outta "select 2x4" and then mount the doors directly on that.

Looking for ideas, examples, recommendations....

Can I get cabinet doors 24x48 that wont warp in a shop environment? How about 24×96? Itd be nice to have a couple tall doors for hanging coveralls, snowmobile clothes etc.

Ideally I would like to use top grade Blum hardware, with softclose like I have in the house. My plan is to put the cabinets going between the windows, its roughly 25 feet. Ill use the space to the right (going to corner) for hanging brooms, shovels, jacks etc. And lastly, would like to use pine so that everything matches what I have already for woodwork.



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[cgrutt]

I just made some boxes out of plywood with simple locking rabbets cut on table saw. You can make them any size you need and leave the backs off if you want to (although the backs add strength).

Faced them off with some cherry boards. Nothing fancy, just glued and stapled directly to the plywood.

And topped it off with some curly maple.

Did same thing for top but just not as deep. Ran some channels in the top for shelf hangers.

Still haven't finished it, LOL...

 

[dadsEH]

Nice 'kitchen'

but seriously... we just renovated our kitchen and i saved all of it as cupboard and shelvingfor my shed...

 

[rayra]

sledneck, sounds like what you want / need are some wall to wall floor to ceiling 2x3 framed shelves sized for your totes, but faced with cabinet doors. That will give you the thru-shelving you seek.

I have such shelves, but built long before plastic totes were a thing, so the sizing doesnt' work and I have no doors on them yet. Getting prepped to rebuild a good portion of that wall with a sliding compound miter saw / cutting station and some other woodworkign related improvements.

To that end I've been re-organizing the rest of the garage and recently built some cabinets. But they're modular / stand-alone (for other project reasons) and were built from a lot of leftovers, so they aren't that grand.

This one is 3'W x 2'D and ~7' tall. The doors are framed with 1x6 planks, rabbeted with an OSB skin insert. The doors are my clamp racks.

The other shorter cabinet on the left holds my compressor. It's skirted and topped with pegboard for ventilation. I did it mostly for noise control, it's obnoxiously loud. Same kind of 1x6 door and it is outfitted with shelves and holds my air tools and related equipment. All the doors have casters on the bottom to help bear the weight of what is in them.
Have a lot of spacing and clearance issues in this suburban garage, so things are a little funky. Different size and types of pieces to accomplish what I want to do, which was finally get most of my trades tools on one wall.

 

[rayra]

Here's a full wall I built for a friend, he skinned the shelves left and right of the workbench with OSB sheet doors.

did some quite similar to cgrutt's, at a mountain house about 8yrs ago. Wish I'd known about 'french cleats' then, hanging those was a hassle, wall studs were uneven, wall was FULL of plumbing and electrical lines.
Plywood boxes face-trimmed with recycled cedar from that house, so they'd match. Doors framed with the same cedar, but centers are just pine beadboard tediously stained to match.

 

[Dreaming]

While I have not built anything like this, I would think building the frame floor to ceiling and then using sliding closet door would work decent enough. For the internals if looking to use storage totes I would just find a strong tote that I could built slots for and then only really need framing.

Found this picture online:

 

[Mr. Roboto]

Here are the ones I built:

 

[machsnell]

Here are the ones I built:

Nice work that is very attractive. Love the lights also. Really nice!

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[Mr. Roboto]

Nice work that is very attractive. Love the lights also. Really nice!

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Thank you!

 

[crooklyn]

Here are the ones I built:

WoW!
Looks great. What kind of peg board is that on the walls? I might have to copy

 

[Mr. Roboto]

Here are the ones I built:

WoW!
Looks great. What kind of peg board is that on the walls? I might have to copy

It's the horizontal metal pegboard from wall control. I despise traditional pegboard, but I love this stuff! Though admittedly, I haven't really loaded it up yet. I'm in the organization phase of my garage build now.

https://www.wallcontrol.com/

 

[sni-per]

Here are the ones I built:

That's a beautiful work area, but I have to ask.....do you ever do anything there?? I don't see a scratch or anything out of place!!!

 

[x95braat]

Mr. Roboto,

I see the pegboard appears to be behind the counter with a gap. What happens if you drop a tool? Is there a ledge to stop them from falling or no backs on the cabinets for access?

I have considered the same basic design with the metal pegboard, but I'm unsure of your cabinet positioning with the gap, since I know I would be trying to retrieve lost tools all the time.

 

[ADSR]

I just made some boxes out of plywood with simple locking rabbets cut on table saw. You can make them any size you need and leave the backs off if you want to (although the backs add strength).

wow! must be nice to own that saw!

 

[Mr. Roboto]

That's a beautiful work area, but I have to ask.....do you ever do anything there?? I don't see a scratch or anything out of place!!!

I actually just finished building the work area haha. Check out my build thread if you want, It's just finally coming together now. It wont stay looking this nice for long!

Mr. Roboto,

I see the pegboard appears to be behind the counter with a gap. What happens if you drop a tool? Is there a ledge to stop them from falling or no backs on the cabinets for access?

I have considered the same basic design with the metal pegboard, but I'm unsure of your cabinet positioning with the gap, since I know I would be trying to retrieve lost tools all the time.

Right now, yes, there is a gap there. I just built the bench, so it's still a work in progress. I am planning on adding a horizontal shelf to the "backsplash" for exactly this reason. I have already dropped a few things down there

 

[cgrutt]

wow! must be nice to own that saw!

Thanks. It's a decent saw for the money. Still within reach for DIYers like me without going overboard, LOL.

My friend owned a $60K saw in his cabinet shop and uses this same saw at home. That's when I knew it was decent (about 15 years ago).

 

[jevoy]

LORDDiESEL.....where did you buy the table saw? How much if you dont mind me asking?

 

[Kpaige]

 

[Terranova]

View media item 43765


View media item 43862

 

[crooklyn]

View media item 43765

Great idea for using that space.

 

[LesserSon]

I was tripping over boxes and I needed a better way to store my handsaws. I wanted shelves and I wanted pegboard. I wanted something modular enough that I could change it as my needs developed. So I hauled out some book cases I had salvaged and bought some pegboard. My space is cramped below-grade and has concrete walls - no studs, just joists about 74" above the slab. So I needed to stiffen the pegboard before attaching it to the back of the unit. I'm using wood glue and zip ties to hold 5/8" x 5/8" strips ripped from old floor boards.

 

[LesserSon]

And the strips cinched down. The panels are 38-1/2" wide so the shelves inside the 3/4" plywood sides can be 37" wide. That's about right for two 18" tool boxes side by side without interferring.

 

[LesserSon]

Next, I rolled on two coats of white ceiling paint. It's what I had, and I figured it would dry rapidly and help to block the brown tannnins from leaching through to the surface. I topped that with a coat of water bourne polyurethane. I feel this combination makes the pegboard more reflective of light, more resistant to moisture, and easier to clean. It is best to install pegboard when the humidity is highest, because it buckles as it expands inside a fixed frame. However, I cannot wait, so I'm hoping the paint and poly cause a bit of swelling that will do the same thing.

 

[jd_1138]

Totes are heavy and bulky. I'd probably just frame out 2x4's vertically and horizontally. Using a 1/4" impact driver and torx fasteners. Install a 2x4 ledger along the wall screwed into the studs, and then frame out the legs/sides. And then use plywood for the shelves to rest on the 2x4's. You can pretty them up with some less heavy duty wood for doors/trim.

Then you can get all the stuff off the floor and elsewhere, and then you can add the trim/doors at your leisure.

 

[LesserSon]

Time to frame. I have one fixed shelf at the bottom. The whole thing sits on a PT fence picket, screwed down to the concrete slab with blue masonry screws. This will reduce moisture transfer from the unsealed slab into the base.
I've got a 3/4" copper water supply with foam insulation interferring with the install, so notches in front and cut a 1-1/2" x 2-14" corner off the top back of the sides of the assembled unit. At the top is a 2x4 with twenty four 1" notches to stabilize the toes of the saws.

 

[LesserSon]

Ah, that's where it goes - behind the pipe. All plumb, level, and squared. Just screw the tops into the joists with shims to keep it from wracking, and a couple screws down through the fixed shelf into the PT picket. And a moveable shelf or two, and a rod I cut down from an old leaf rake handle (not shown). That's to hold the handsaws. I predrilled and screwed through the sides into the rake handle to attach it. It won't be elegant if I decide to remove it later, but that won't be for a while.

 

[LesserSon]

All loaded up.

 

[LesserSon]

And of course, I have to make another one right next to it for more junk.

 

[sledneck32!]

Totes are heavy and bulky. I'd probably just frame out 2x4's vertically and horizontally. Using a 1/4" impact driver and torx fasteners. Install a 2x4 ledger along the wall screwed into the studs, and then frame out the legs/sides. And then use plywood for the shelves to rest on the 2x4's. You can pretty them up with some less heavy duty wood for doors/trim.

Then you can get all the stuff off the floor and elsewhere, and then you can add the trim/doors at your leisure.

This is what Im thinking ftmp but.... Ya know how it is when u leave stuff for later lol.

My main concern i guess is designing it for easy finishing later, and being able to get doors that wont warp. If i have doors say 24" wide by 48" high can I realistically expect them to stay flat if painted/sealed properly? Im a painter btw... Or do I need smaller doors?

Also, can i get hinges that will mount well to the faceframe itself, without showing from outside?

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[MechEngPaul]

I used 3/4" MDF with Blum hinges for the plain doors. They are primed all around with topcoat on 5 sides. Have not had any warpage issues; they have been installed for about 6 years. The largest two doors are approximately 2'x3.

 

[MechEngPaul]

Also, a short wide cabinet with a door like this might work well for your miter saw stand and other longer items. Their website says it can handle cabinets up to 72" wide.


http://www.blum.com/us/en/01/10/60/

 

[ddawg16]

I built my own using gray melamine with doors from the inlaws old kitchen





And I also have a bar.....

 

[ddawg16]

Oh, and some of my storage....



But I do like how RayRa built a little cubby for his nails. I may have to try that.

 

[rayra]

I put dividers every three boxes, stack much more and the boxes start to collapse / slump.
And most of my nails are in a 3gal bucket in those clear plastic cylinders with the coin-purse style ends you can squeeze open. These boxes were the most common stuff I use all the time, various drywall screws and various lengths of coated deck screws and plated woodscrews. All the bigger or oddball stuff is in the bucket.
I used to do some house flipping and later handyman work and helping friends and neighbors build things, it was easier to grab a bucket(s) and a couple large tool bags and have everything I need.

 

[buening]

Here are the cabinets and bench I built.

 

[WanderingSol07]

I made my own garage cabinets, see http://www.wanderingsol.comule.com/Pages/GarageCabinet.html for my process. One of the features mine has is the ability to take the back off the cabinet and change the tool hangers without taking the cabinet down or doors off.

 

[jlckmj]

This is a link to my soffit cabinets. The plywood partitions could be opened up to allow passing long objects through one tothe other.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198872

Jim

 

[greasyfingers01]

Here are the cabinets and bench I built.

What paint did you use? Looks easy to wipe down. Any issues with degrading with chemical contact?

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[smalltown]

Mr. Roboto very nice work.

 

[mbaulfinger]

@Buening your cabinets and bench are nice. What are the cabinets constructed from?
What kind of paint did you use? The finish looks flawless. Thanks.

Especially love the idea of using square tubing as mount for your grinder and vice. Absolutely brilliant idea!