Floor Finish Brand New Shop

[BadMannerz]

Hi everybody........ Ive been cruising around the forum checking things out. In a few weeks my new shop addition will be complete. Its a pole bar construction 40x50x12 with 3 10x10 role up doors. I will use it for automotive repair, as well as maintenance of my sled pull truck, building/modifying other customers trucks, machining tools....... My question is about experience with floor coatings, epoxies, sealers, polishing...... I'm leaning towards epoxy but am wondering about others experiences. I'm a DIY guy. Just go out to lowes and get a two part and knock it out? Never had a coated floor before... And the ease of cleanup, and the wow factor of a nice clean shop with an good looking floor when a customer shows up to drop off their VERY EXPENSIVE pull truck is what I'm after. At 2000sq ft I'm obviously thinking about cost as well. But now is the time. Nice virgin concrete and nothing in the building yet. What are the opinions of the products that are pout there and the costs as well. Looking forward to getting some input!

 

[Garage Flooring]

Hi everybody........ Ive been cruising around the forum checking things out. In a few weeks my new shop addition will be complete. Its a pole bar construction 40x50x12 with 3 10x10 role up doors. I will use it for automotive repair, as well as maintenance of my sled pull truck, building/modifying other customers trucks, machining tools....... My question is about experience with floor coatings, epoxies, sealers, polishing...... I'm leaning towards epoxy but am wondering about others experiences. I'm a DIY guy. Just go out to lowes and get a two part and knock it out? Never had a coated floor before... And the ease of cleanup, and the wow factor of a nice clean shop with an good looking floor when a customer shows up to drop off their VERY EXPENSIVE pull truck is what I'm after. At 2000sq ft I'm obviously thinking about cost as well. But now is the time. Nice virgin concrete and nothing in the building yet. What are the opinions of the products that are pout there and the costs as well. Looking forward to getting some input!

The wow factor of your epoxy floor will quickly turn to frustration if you are not careful to use the right product and get some good advice. If you decide to do an epoxy system, you want to do it right.

• Quick Moisture Test
• Grind the floor
• Repeat Quick Moisture Test
• Prime it
• High Solids too 100% Solids Base Coat
• Desired flake (another discussion)
• Appropriate top coat (chemical resistance.... abrasion resistance.... you will want to get very specific).

There are also a wide variety of sealers that have less wow and less work and can be more friendly to the wallet. Solutions like Rust Bullet fall in between from a cost perspective.

 

[BadMannerz]

Thanks for the input. Just trying to see what is out there and what is worth the money. Ive been reading on here and it seems that even if you spend the big money sometimes it doesn't work out. I'm hoping some others will post up about their personal experiences with there diy floor coatings. I would rather leave them bare than to risk a product that will cause problems. I know it may be taboo in the professional epoxy world but, I'm still curious about the Rustoleum stuff.... I have a friend that went that route and is very pleased.

The wow factor of your epoxy floor will quickly turn to frustration if you are not careful to use the right product and get some good advice. If you decide to do an epoxy system, you want to do it right.

• Quick Moisture Test
• Grind the floor
• Repeat Quick Moisture Test
• Prime it
• High Solids too 100% Solids Base Coat
• Desired flake (another discussion)
• Appropriate top coat (chemical resistance.... abrasion resistance.... you will want to get very specific).

There are also a wide variety of sealers that have less wow and less work and can be more friendly to the wallet. Solutions like Rust Bullet fall in between from a cost perspective.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Leaving them completely untreated is not a good option. Using a sealer might be. I think you would be surprised, apples to apples how little difference in cost there is between some of these systems -- and to be fair in some cases how much people charge.

Sounds like this project is really important to you. I don't think you will find a guy in an orange apron who can really help you through it and you will find tons of them here.

Quote out the box store system you are thinking of and list what's in it. Then give the pros a chance to help.




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[BadMannerz]

Leaving them completely untreated is not a good option. Using a sealer might be. I think you would be surprised, apples to apples how little difference in cost there is between some of these systems -- and to be fair in some cases how much people charge.

Sounds like this project is really important to you. I don't think you will find a guy in an orange apron who can really help you through it and you will find tons of them here.

Quote out the box store system you are thinking of and list what's in it. Then give the pros a chance to help.




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Once again, thanks. And you are correct, this is important to me. I will do just that. I will check out some box stores and post back some option from them. Then I will see what input I can get from the pros on here and compare.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Our Nohr-S polyurea is tough stuff.
Much tougher and easier to use than the big-box materials.

You had me at "Pull Truck"!!

 

[BadMannerz]

Our Nohr-S polyurea is tough stuff.
Much tougher and easier to use than the big-box materials.

You had me at "Pull Truck"!!

Thanks Scotty. Truck Pullin is my thing!!!!! I do metal fabrication on the side. CNC Plasma, mig, tig, general fab as well as custom parts for other pullers local and nation wide (even though I'm a one man operation lol)........... I'm building a new tube chassis, fiberglass tiltbody truck for NTPA/Lucas Oil Pro Pulling League/Dragon Motorsports classes. The larger shop has been needed for a long time. Finally pulled the trigger and got the ball rolling. This is the first new shop Ive ever had so a virgin concrete floor is new to me. My friends are telling me to coat it before I move anything in at all. Just do it. They have a done the box store kits on their two car garages. This is obviously larger than that so funds are a concern for me. Good lighting alone is ridiculous! Glad I'm getting some input. I'm new on the forum so is there a floor finish vendor section I should be checking out, or just see who adds input on this thread? Any info that can be provided by vendors or shop/garage owners will be very appreciated! I want to do this right the first time (within reason)!!!!!

 

[Shea]

Something you need to consider. Most of the stuff you can buy from the big box stores are really designed for residential use. While those products may do fine for someone who uses their garage to just park their cars and do the occasional maintenance work, it's another story entirely when you are talking about a full size working shop. I believe Lowes still carries Epoxy-Coat, which is a much better quality product, but it's really the exception. The problem however is that you can't get a primer or high performance top coats to go with it, nor do the nice people at these stores have any specific knowledge or real world experience in application.

You may want to read this article about the home improvement center epoxy coatings. They do serve a purpose, but they are your typical DIY residential coatings. You would be better off applying a densifier to the bare concrete followed by a good oil repellent sealer than spending money on a coating that will only last a few years at best in your environment.

Both Garage Flooring LLC and Legacy Industrial are steering you in the right direction. A commercial quality coating is going to cost more money, however, it's going to last for years and give you the performance and look you are trying to achieve.

Customer service is another issue. Most of the vendors here offer great customer service and are available on the weekends as well. It's great to know that someone is there to help you along when questions pop up. Try calling Rust-Oleum customer service on a weekend for example.

You are doing the right thing by asking questions and doing your research. Keep reading and you will get a better idea of what you need based on your needs.

 

[EdT]

Since this is apparently an actual working shop as opposed to a showplace (nothing wrong with showplaces) I will offer a couple of thoughts. Just another opinion, worth no more than you paid for it.
1) Epoxy floors with dust on them are incredibly slippery. So, if you go that route plan on some kind of anti slip additive. We put epoxy on the floor in a room where we built and crated specialty machines and with sawdust on it, it was dangerous to walk on. Probably the same when wet
2) Epoxy and any other floor coating that I know of is not impervious to welding slag or the flame from an OA torch. So, if you go that way, just be prepared for the floor coating to be damaged by some of the stuff you do. You will have to decide whether you have to "Take it outside because it might damage the floor". It's a shop, not a ballroom.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Something you need to consider. Most of the stuff you can buy from the big box stores are really designed for residential use. While those products may do fine for someone who uses their garage to just park their cars and do the occasional maintenance work, it's another story entirely when you are talking about a full size working shop. I believe Lowes still carries Epoxy-Coat, which is a much better quality product, but it's really the exception. The problem however is that you can't get a primer or high performance top coats to go with it, nor do the nice people at these stores have any specific knowledge or real world experience in application.

You may want to read this article about the home improvement center epoxy coatings. They do serve a purpose, but they are your typical DIY residential coatings. You would be better off applying a densifier to the bare concrete followed by a good oil repellent sealer than spending money on a coating that will only last a few years at best in your environment.

Both Garage Flooring LLC and Legacy Industrial are steering you in the right direction. A commercial quality coating is going to cost more money, however, it's going to last for years and give you the performance and look you are trying to achieve.

Customer service is another issue. Most of the vendors here offer great customer service and are available on the weekends as well. It's great to know that someone is there to help you along when questions pop up. Try calling Rust-Oleum customer service on a weekend for example.

You are doing the right thing by asking questions and doing your research. Keep reading and you will get a better idea of what you need based on your needs.

Better advice, you could not find.

 

[BadMannerz]

Upon doing more research and more reading it looks like a product like the TLPPC by Garage Flooring LLC would be a better choice for my application. I love the look of the epoxy coatings but, for my grinding, jack stands, rolling loaded jacks, welding slag, plasma dross etc I don't think it would be a lasting option. I certainly don't want to have the decisions to work on something outside the shop just because I don't want scratch my floor or worry about chipping the epoxy. What are all my options as far as a product that will give me a little bit of that wow factor with my floor as well as help with oils, fuels, and other spills as well as giving me the ability to mop the floor from time to time to keep it clean? I think this is the direction I might need to go... Anybody have pics of their finished floor with using this type of products? Yes, I have used the search button and have seen some pics. lol Just trying to gather all the info I can before making a final decision! Everyone has been a big help so far!!!!!

 

[BadMannerz]

Our Nohr-S polyurea is tough stuff.
Much tougher and easier to use than the big-box materials.

You had me at "Pull Truck"!!

I this Nohr-S polyurea similar to the TLPPC by Garage Flooring LLC? Just a sealer type produce but not an epoxy that might chip? In the pics it looks like it has some thickness to it like an epoxy....... It says that the product is available in colors. I would like to have a light grey vs the wet dark grey concrete look. Better light reflective and easier to see dropped fasteners on the floor.Some more info on the products that you would recommend based on my needs would be great!
Thanks
Brandon

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi, you might want to look at our SPGX clear coating. Its a one party polyurea hybrid. It's very low cost, easy to apply and virtually impervious to most common auto fluids and such.

 

[Richard Cranium]

One thing that G.j. has over the big box stores, We have at least 3 professional that really work with the stuff and can give you very good advise.
You will pay more for the professional stuff, But you will get years more use out of it, It will pay you back the difference many times over.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

I this Nohr-S polyurea similar to the TLPPC by Garage Flooring LLC? Just a sealer type produce but not an epoxy that might chip? In the pics it looks like it has some thickness to it like an epoxy....... It says that the product is available in colors. I would like to have a light grey vs the wet dark grey concrete look. Better light reflective and easier to see dropped fasteners on the floor.Some more info on the products that you would recommend based on my needs would be great!

Thanks

Brandon

No it's not like anything on the market.
Epoxy like thickness, epoxy like gloss, 100% more flexible than epoxy, 50% more flexible than urethane. Unlimited pot-life with 2 hour recoats!!

We have Clear, Gray, White, Black, Tan and Orange. White and gray can be mixed to form light gray.

Here is a recent install from a gj member, Skip. Tan with our system 3 chips.

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[BadMannerz]

What about welding slag and things like that? Jack stands, rolling jacks.... Obviously I wont be placing a torch directly to it....... Just wondering. I'm guessing this is a cross between epoxy and a sealer? I know it sure looks good!

 

[ClintNZ]

Quite interested in this too - we are just doing a deal on a new place with a nice shed & a garage floor coating will be one of the first things we need to do. Like the OP durability & resistance to welding sparks, trolley jacks etc will be more important than outright bling factor.

Not sure what will be available in NZ but it seems a lot of the industrial grade stuff is distributed internationally.

Cheers
Clint

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

What about welding slag and things like that? Jack stands, rolling jacks.... Obviously I wont be placing a torch directly to it....... Just wondering. I'm guessing this is a cross between epoxy and a sealer? I know it sure looks good!

Jacks and stands are no issue.
Slag is no good for any coating, even untreated/uncoated concrete can burst from slag.

It is a Polyaspartic/urethane derivative with a proprietary development that allows the unlimited pot-life.


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[BadMannerz]

So Ive taken all the advice from the pros on here about the coating and make numerous calls. I found out a friend of mine is re-opening his local concrete polishing business. I called him up and we worked out a price and I'm bartering off some metal work for him as well. I think the polishing will serve me better in the long run with a working shop. Ive been doing some searching on the GJ and am surprised to find little info on polishing compared to coatings. Why? Is it because of cost?

 

[Armorpoxy]

Generally speaking concrete polishing is too expensive for many garage users. In addition for efficiency the polishers we use are very large and need 3 phase power which is rarely available in residential homes.

Also the sealers that get burnished in and used for polishing are not as resistant to common auto fluids, salts, and such so polishing is usually not used in those types of applications.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

So Ive taken all the advice from the pros on here about the coating and make numerous calls. I found out a friend of mine is re-opening his local concrete polishing business. I called him up and we worked out a price and I'm bartering off some metal work for him as well. I think the polishing will serve me better in the long run with a working shop. Ive been doing some searching on the GJ and am surprised to find little info on polishing compared to coatings. Why? Is it because of cost?

Polishing is not chemical resistant and will get eaten up by road-salts.
That is why many folks steer clear for garages, especially in the snow-belt.
We have taken many polished garage floors back to coatings because of this.

It is important to note that these floors require ongoing maintenance. A treatment of our HD40 Concrete Stainguard, post polishing is one way to help preserve the good looks and give it a fighting chance against all the nasties you will drag in.