ID this Grinder

[sld961]

Can anyone ID this grinder. It's posted on a semi-local craigslist for $100. They don't give any info about it, other than it's an industrial grinder that came from a local factory.

 

[pcmeiners]

Older Baldor, switch going horizontal is a tip off. If it startup I would buy it, this era are the best made, real Hp amperage, heavy cast parts. As to actual model, take Ohm reading of coils, note capacitor specs, some parts are marked with part numbers, research Baldor manuals. If you lucky you may have a diagram in the motor mount.

 

[rsanter]

Older Baldor, switch going horizontal is a tip off. If it startup I would buy it, this era are the best made, real Hp amperage, heavy cast parts. As to actual model, take Ohm reading of coils, note capacitor specs, some parts are marked with part numbers, research Baldor manuals. If you lucky you may have a diagram in the motor mount.

I agree

Bob

 

[sld961]

Ok. He said he'll take $70. It's an hour a a half drive, one way, but I think I'll go get it. What all should I/can I check on it? It doesn't have wheels, so I won't be able to really see how smooth it runs?

 

[Provincial]

Make sure it isn't 3 phase, if you don't have that type of power. The larger grinders aren't always made to run on household current.

 

[sld961]

He said it's 120v. Is $70 a smoking deal, warm deal, or the going rate? I'll have 3 hours in the car, I don't want to drive 3 hours for an OK deal.

 

[Voi]

Is $70 a smoking deal, warm deal, or the going rate? I'll have 3 hours in the car, I don't want to drive 3 hours for an OK deal.

Do you know what wheel size it is? IMO it's a better than okay deal even if it's 6".

 

[sld961]

He said he thinks it's 6".

 

[Voi]

He said he thinks it's 6".

I think the 6" back then had 1/2" arbors and the 7" had 5/8" arbors. That's one way to tell if you don't want to pop the wheel guards off while you're there or have him do it.

But look that up and confirm first.

 

[notlob]

Ask him for the info from the ID tag hiding under the "Abrasion Wheels" sticker. If its only 1/3 hp, $70 plus 3 hours travel plus gas is not much of a deal, especially for a grinder that appears to have a lot of hours on it.

 

[sld961]

I asked him, he hasn't got back to me yet. Guess I'll go check it out and hopefully it's bigger than 1/3hp.

 

[rsanter]

That's a good price, the three hours would really kill it for me

Bob

 

[pcmeiners]

Three hour travel is a bit much; if it was a 3/4hp 3 hours would not be so bad. Even if it is a lowly 6", 1/3 HP, it still would be approx double the hp of the new units. Other factors, possibly the cast iron is cracked, seen a few with cracks as many are abused, possible bearing would need replacement, run cap could need replacement.

 

[sld961]

 

[Voi]

I have a 7306 that came out of a local high school. I like it a lot.

It's a 7" grinder as is the one pictured.

I paid more than $70 but it has the more desirable lighted eye shields and came with a homemade stand. And I didn't have to drive far at all to get it.

 

[sld961]

Are 7" wheels easy to get? Are they expensive? I'll likely get one grinding wheel and one brush? How much do they cost, does the missing wheels make it a bad deal?

 

[Voi]

Are 7" wheels easy to get? Are they expensive? I'll likely get one grinding wheel and one brush? How much do they cost, does the missing wheels make it a bad deal?

There have been some threads on this. Unfortunately I lost those bookmarks.

I need to get a wire wheel for mine so if I find something I'll post back.

BTW, yours has double the RPM's as mine. I think that's a good thing. I wanted to get a belt grinder attachment for mine but was convinced by others here one of my other grinders would be a better candidate due to greater speed.

I still believe this is a good deal. Whether the drive is worth it or not is another question.

 

[kunkernator]

I would go buy it. Especially with gas being so cheap. But $70 is a great price!

If you need a little more info, check out the thread of the restoration I recently did (in progress) on an 8" Baldor of the same era.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=321420

7" wheels are hard to find locally, but a plethora of them are available online. Try Enco, they list them by specific sizes and dimensions.


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[sld961]

I would go buy it. Especially with gas being so cheap. But $70 is a great price!

If you need a little more info, check out the thread of the restoration I recently did (in progress) on an 8" Baldor of the same era.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=321420

7" wheels are hard to find locally, but a plethora of them are available online. Try Enco, they list them by specific sizes and dimensions.


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Thanks. I told him I'll take it, now I just have to find a time to go get it, and I hope the price doesn't go up, now that he knows the make and model.

I read through your thread a few days ago. Great write up. How much do you have into your rebuild, in case this one needs it?

 

[kunkernator]

Thanks. I told him I'll take it, now I just have to find a time to go get it, and I hope the price doesn't go up, now that he knows the make and model.

I read through your thread a few days ago. Great write up. How much do you have into your rebuild, in case this one needs it?

I kinda went all out, replacing and refurbishing everything.... I probably have less than $100 in to it.

Realistically, if you are not missing anything, and there are no DAMAGED components, say $20 for the bearings, and $10 to give it a nice prime/paint. Plus some extra for new stones/wire wheel.

The rest is just time and labor. Stripping the paint, polishing the shaft, pressing the bearings, etc. Makes for a real good project.

Mine still isnt done, waiting for some parts back from a machinist, and then i have to source tool rests.


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[sld961]

I kinda went all out, replacing and refurbishing everything.... I probably have less than $100 in to it.

Realistically, if you are not missing anything, and there are no DAMAGED components, say $20 for the bearings, and $10 to give it a nice prime/paint. Plus some extra for new stones/wire wheel.

The rest is just time and labor. Stripping the paint, polishing the shaft, pressing the bearings, etc. Makes for a real good project.

Mine still isnt done, waiting for some parts back from a machinist, and then i have to source tool rests.


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I got the grinder for $65. It's missing one of the arbor flanges on one side. Is there something special about these flanges, that I would need to find a Baldor one, or can I find one the same size and just use it?

It does need bearings. Do you know the size of the bearings? I want to stay ordering parts before I have time to tear into it.

 

[kunkernator]

$65 dollars is a pretty good deal. I will look up all the info for you when i get off work, and provide you with some links. As for the flange, i would get a Baldor one IIRC, it is under $20. The bearings will have the number engraved on them when you take them out, but i will try to find the number for you.


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[kunkernator]

Alright, here is the product information page off Baldor's website.

http://www.baldor.com/catalog/7307D

As well as the packet, which will provide you with all the part numbers for every part that goes to that grinder.

https://www.baldorvip.com/servlet/productInfoPacket/7307D.pdf

And here is another pamphlet that has general takeapart pictures and part numbers.

It appears your bearings are #6203. I cant tell if the are single shielded, double shielded, or sealed. I would pop them out and take a look before ordering any. You do NOT have to get Baldor bearings. Just Google the bearing (6203 shielded, 6203 sealed, etc).

Amazon has the sealed variety for $7.50/piece;
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045E0E8U/?tag=atomicindus08-20

As well as shielded for $10.75/piece;
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Z2NT7C/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Both are reputable brands. Buy Japan or US made, not Chinese.

As for the wheel flange, it looks like a HA6096A01SP part number.
Radwell has it for $23 brand new;
http://www.plccenter.com/en-US/Buy/BALDOR/HA6096A01SP

Tear it apart, get those nasty stickers off of it, and give it a good prep for paint. Label the wires if they are not already, and make a little wire diagram.

If you also need to change the capacitor, McMaster Carr is a good source (they had mine).
http://www.mcmaster.com/#ac-electric-motor-capacitors/=11nl0hv

Give it a nice coat of paint, buy some new stones or wire wheel, call it new!

Enco is a great source for wheels, as you can specify your shaft size, wheel diameter, thickness, grit, etc.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=223&PMITEM=337-7313

 

[sld961]

Thanks for all the info. I'm thinking I'll paint it hammered light blue to match my Wilton vise.

All I can find on Enco is 7" wheels with 1"bore. Can I adapt them to 5/8" with a bushing, or do I need to find 7"x1"x5/8" wheels?

 

[kunkernator]

Thanks for all the info. I'm thinking I'll paint it hammered light blue to match my Wilton vise.

All I can find on Enco is 7" wheels with 1"bore. Can I adapt them to 5/8" with a bushing, or do I need to find 7"x1"x5/8" wheels?

Yes you can adapt them. I cant pull up the page on my iPad right now, but i believe it is around the same page in the Enco catalog. There is plastic bushings of all sizes, designed specific for grinding wheels.

Every stone i have ever put on a grinder has needed to have a bushing as well.

I like that color on your vise as well, i just picked up another Wilton C0 today in fact.mis it Rustoleum?


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[sld961]

Ok. Thanks.

Yep, it's Rustoleum Hammered Light Blue.

 

[sld961]

Ordered the bearings. Got everything tore down. Gonna soak everything except the shaft and windings in simple green for a while to strip the paint.

Still need to press the bearings off. Any trick, or just press them off?

 

[pcmeiners]

"Still need to press the bearings off. Any trick, or just press them off?"
Nothing special, I use a mix of a little grease plus telfon powder . Someone changed the bearing on this, the originals were open bearings. As suggested, change the capacitor, capacitance needs to be close but not exact, as long as the replacement is a run cap. You have a true 1/2 hp grinder. Trickier to get the replacement on, bearings have a tendency to "jump" while pressing, I did not do it but you might warm the new bearing before pressing, not hot, say 140 F . Motor interior looks far less used then mine was.The motor uses more amps then the catalogue model, the older models always used more. Plate show 4.?/2.1

Highly recommend SKF Energy Efficient bearings (low friction seals), more expensive but motors run cooler, smoother, tested them myself.....

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...kw=skf+bearing+energy+efficient+6203&_sacat=0

 

[sld961]

"Still need to press the bearings off. Any trick, or just press them off?"
Nothing special, I use a mix of a little grease plus telfon powder . Someone changed the bearing on this, the originals were open bearings. As suggested, change the capacitor, capacitance needs to be close but not exact, as long as the replacement is a run cap. You have a true 1/2 hp grinder. Trickier to get the replacement on, bearings have a tendency to "jump" while pressing, I did not do it but you might warm the new bearing before pressing, not hot, say 140 F . Motor interior looks far less used then mine was.

Highly recommend SKF Energy Efficient bearings (low friction seals), more expensive but motors run cooler, smoother, tested them myself.....

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...kw=skf+bearing+energy+efficient+6203&_sacat=0

Thanks for the info. I usually use the oven for bearings. Lowest setting is 170, so that's what I use. Planning to heat the bearings and then put them on the shaft. Then heat the ends, and slide them on the bearings.

I already ordered NSK bearings. I still have time to cancel order and switch to SKF, but I only want to spend about $10 for each one.

Would these SKF be better than these NSK?

SKF 6203-2Z Light Series Deep Groove Ball Bearing, Deep Groove Design, ABEC 1 Precision, Double Shielded, Non-Contact, Steel Cage, C0 Clearance, 17mm Bore, 40mm OD, 12mm Width, 1070.0 pounds Static Load Capacity, 2150.00 pounds Dynamic Load Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VGN1KW/?tag=atomicindus08-20

NSK 6203ZZ Deep Groove Ball Bearing, Single Row, Double Shielded, Pressed Steel Cage, Normal Clearance, Metric, 17mm Bore, 40mm OD, 12mm Width, 17000rpm Maximum Rotational Speed, 1079lbf Static Load Capacity, 2147lbf Dynamic Load Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Z2NT7C/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[sld961]

Also, should I put open bearings in it, or keep with the sheilded? Or go with sealed? I don't really know the practical difference between shielded and sealed. I'd be hesitant to use open on both sides, because there was dust packed against the bearings on the outsides.

 

[pcmeiners]

Open bearings were originally used as shields were only just developing. Opening bearings have less friction, but require cleanliness and re greasing. Metal shields generally incur more friction than non metal, except in the SKF energy seals. Shielded requires no maintenance except a change out in >12 years, they are water resistant; half the grinders I have opened get a small amount of water in one or both bearing areas. You do not want open bearings. The original open bearings had a large (wool?) fiber washer to keep the dust/etc out. Also the SKF energy efficient bearings are only more expensive due to shipping. Bearing pressed on with a pipe similar to ID

Your first bearing link is a precision C0 (tight) clearance specs, not for a grinder. Grinders are generally C3 (more clearance).

Second link, looks like an older shield type, might have been sitting on a shelf for years.

Any of the major bearing companies are usable (SKF, NSK, NACHI,NTN) . I prefer SKF but any noted are good, leery of any company having a plant in China, had a couple brands which the hardening is not done correctly. If Ebay sourced stay away from bearings which box looks 20 years old, if they are un-packaged, or little known brand.

Ebay source....
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...2.A0.H0.X6203.TRS0&_nkw=6203+bearing&_sacat=0

As to painting, I used Home Depot best stripper, then wire wheel

 

[kunkernator]

I had access to a press when I did mine. Just thread the nut on the end of the shaft and press against it while supporting the bearing. They are not on there real tight, so there is no need for an oven. When I put mine back on, I made a driver and just hammered them on the inner race.

 

[sld961]

Got the paint stripped and new bearings in. Got most new hardware for it. Ready for paint.

Put the badge on to see what it would look like unpainted.

Hopefully I can get time to paint it this week and get it assembled.

 

[exmaxima1]

Nice job on the restoration, looks great so far. I have the same model Baldor, and I have a MultiTool belt adapter on one side. Takes a while to get up to speed, but it has decent power and runs extremely smooth. You'll love that grinder.