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vintage ratchets - any good ones?

T45

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what are some good user ratchets from earlier eras?

ie, not snap on f80, 120xp, Armstrong 88T etc

maybe also looking at sizes like 1/2 where the technology matters less

just curious for under-rated and over-looked user-tools
 
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four.cycle

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Indestro 3275 1/2" drive RHFT ratchet
52-tooth, 10½" length
used
$12.99 + $9.75 shipping "buy now"
http://www.ebay.com/itm/j953-Vintag...622070?hash=item2a627773f6:g:JLsAAOSwU~FWDVLi

==

Indestro 6472 1/2" pear-head ratchet
30-tooth, 10¼" length
used
$12.00 + $6.00 shipping "buy now"
http://www.ebay.com/itm/INDESTRO-64...:g:P48AAOSwDuJWxdqc&item=131731001717&vxp=mtr

==

Duro-Chrome 675 1/2" drive RHFT ratchet (same as 3275 Indestro)
52-tooth, 10½" length
used
$21.24 incl. shipping "buy now"
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DURO-CHROME...:g:ZgkAAMXQlgtSv4tM&item=322040526946&vxp=mtr

==

an old Penens 1661, in spite of its low tooth count, is surprisingly smooth if you have it lubricated properly. they seem to be abundant in the second-hand market.
> 7 of them on Ebay right now: $18 - $20

here's another member's opinion on the 3275 Indestro (above):
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5595443&highlight=indestro#post5595443
 
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AndypCT

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you can get some fantastic Bonney ratchets on ebay for a song. USA Made and the fine tooth version is amazing. Cant go wrong with some old craftsman usa made ratchets either for the price.
 

cgrutt

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Sorta related but apologize if it's a little off track. Back in late 80's early 90's my friend's grandfather passed away and he received some of his tools. Included in it was a pre WWII Snapon 1/2" ratchet from probably 1920s or 1930s. It didn't work so I brought it into my Snapon guy and he had the parts to repair it right on the truck. Worked good as new after about 5 minutes work. I was amazed. Not sure if they still keep the parts to repair some of those old ratchets but they were built to last a lifetime. Good luck.
 

Allaround

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Old Williams Supperratchets. Anything S-K.#77 open or round Thorsen.
Older ? 5449 Plomb-early Proto.
Waldens are tough and surprisingly nice if you find clean ones.I have a trio on my pegboard I like to use at my bench vice just"because". They wow me for their age.
It's fun to think about how old they are while using them. Yeah. I'm strange LOL

walden_12dr_1160_ratchet_f_cropped_inset_w560_h272.jpg
 

gdocktor3

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I know earlier models can be had, but in the 1950's Williams S-52 round head Superratchet's were ahead of their time when they came out. The key is the use of dual pawls with an odd number of gear teeth, so that the pawls are always a half step out of synchronization. This allows the ratchet to get another "bite" with only half the angular displacement, effectively doubling the gear pitch. Now, I know they are still made, but they're not the same. If you can find a vintage one at a flea market for cheap, I'd grab it. These things are tough!


I also recommend this ratchet. The only thing better is my 1/4" SK round head.
Easco 1/4" Drive QR Ratchet 711106 - tough little fine tooth qr release ratchet.

Maybe I can make this easier for you. Check out this website. Not only does it give you a history lesson on every USA tool brand ever, it lists every tool they ever made, and it has pictures of every one of them. Its really quite amazing people took the time to do this for us. http://alloy-artifacts.org/
 
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woody 73

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Wow all great replies so far.:thumbup::thumbup::rocker:

This is my take for what it is worth on the GJ; I enjoy using the old cornwell ratchets because I like a smooth handle in my hands. Now don't get me wrong I also own every ratchet from above but for some reason the other handles hurt my old hands and I don't use them very much any more. Now they have their place with the old knurling grips when your hands are covered in sticky goo so it is your call.

Like the others have pointed out those ratchets are very cheap on the used market because today everyone wants the best of the best with a high tooth count. I don't blame them with working in very tight quarters any little bit helps today.
 

ecally

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I have always love using New Britain 3/8 round head ratchets. They are a strong design and nice to use. I picked up a NOS flex about 2 years ago but NOS is hard to find. You can still get ones in very good shape though if you are patient and look closely at the pics associated with the list to determine how much the ratchet has been used. They are easy to take apart and clean.
 

Packard V8

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Surprised no one has mentioned the S-K round heads. Yes, they're large, a bit heavy, but stronger and smoother than most anything back in the day.

Cant go wrong with some old craftsman usa made ratchets either for the price.
My opinions and results vary. Craftsman are so thick on the ground, I will use the sockets for my storage garage set and basement set, but only after subbing in an S-K, Williams or other quality rat.

jack vines
 

Sam'sAutoParts

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Another Vote for New Britain and its kin (old Husky, Sparta, Mac), pictured below is my New Britain made Mac 1/2" drive long and short handle.

For "vintage" pear heads I prefer Cornwell although they are still being made.

If your a craftsman fan their is the RHFT (round head fine tooth) ratchets, expensive on eBay but can be had from flea market for OK prices. They are nice ratchets for sure, but I prefer the New Britain, and usually flip all the Craftsman RHFT I come across.
 

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Sam'sAutoParts

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Surprised no one has mentioned the S-K round heads. Yes, they're large, a bit heavy, but stronger and smoother than most anything back in the day.



My second favorite, and possibly most used since I have two of them is the SK 40170 long handle 1/2" drive. I'm still looking for a tuff1 version, but those are pretty rare.
 

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Gmonkee

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Current vehicles are leaving 1/2" behind somewhat and the older guys are giving up on tools all the time.
This puts a lot of older tools on the market every year.

Older usually means low tooth count and bigger but....My mid 20's SO Milwaukee has a small head profile and is still very usable. Not bad for 1927 technology.
 

Davefr

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My favorite oldies for real work would be the CM RHFT versions. (best ratchet CM ever offered IMHO).

CoolPix013.jpg

I'd also say SK, but vintage SK = modern SK. It's a proven design that holds up well and SK gives out rebuild kits like candy.

The oldies that I would avoid would be Proto/Plomb. I absolutely hate those little tin selectors that's simply peened onto the cam. It always comes loose and then can't disengage the pawls.
 

gdocktor3

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Basically all vintage and newer round heads are based on the same SK design. I have Husky USA, Klein, Wright, Proto, Thorsen, Easco and 20 Taiwan round heads that all look the same and are probably interchangeable.
 

MShaw

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"Basically all vintage and newer round heads are based on the same SK design."

Not so. Vintage New Britain, Husky, Sparta, Penncraft, etc were made to the Kilness patent design and are not the same as S-K. I know because I worked there at the time.
 

gdocktor3

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"Basically all vintage and newer round heads are based on the same SK design."

Not so. Vintage New Britain, Husky, Sparta, Penncraft, etc were made to the Kilness patent design and are not the same as S-K. I know because I worked there at the time.

The Kilness Patent Ratchet

In the early 1950s New Britain licensed a patent for a new ratchet design that promised great strength in a very small head. The ratchet design and a later improvement were developed by Luther Kilness, and the patents were issued as #2,554,990 in 1951 and #2,981,389 in 1961. These are basically second-generation improvements on the original round-head fine-tooth patent #1,981,526 developed by S-K's Theodore Rueb in 1934.

Like I said, they are based on the original SK design.
 

DSLTRK

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Another Vote for New Britain and its kin (old Husky, Sparta, Mac), pictured below is my New Britain made Mac 1/2" drive long and short handle.

For "vintage" pear heads I prefer Cornwell although they are still being made.

If your a craftsman fan their is the RHFT (round head fine tooth) ratchets, expensive on eBay but can be had from flea market for OK prices. They are nice ratchets for sure, but I prefer the New Britain, and usually flip all the Craftsman RHFT I come across.

Add another for New Britain. Fine tooth, small head, low drag, USA Made, strong design.

what's not to like?:drool:
 
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MShaw

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I was not wrong. Read your own post. They were BASED on the same design. The Kilness patent was granted because the Kilness design was significantly different from other existing round head designs. When they were manufactured they were not the same as all other round head ratchets. I was not wrong!!!!!!
 

winlinmac

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The only aspect preventing me from buying a vintage ratchet is lower tooth count. If anyone has a particular suggestion, feel free to let me know, thanks :)
 

gdocktor3

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Here is a brand new SK 3/8" round head and an older Klein USA 3/8" round head. They are exact in dimensions and they are interchangeable. The Husky USA is indeed a different design and does not fit. But in my defense, my statement was that they are "based on the same design" which is factual. I also said they are "probably interchangeable." I do my best to make true statements and if I am unsure of something I am sure to include the words - I think, might, maybe, probably, etc. Husky USA and Vintage New Britain ratchets are probably interchangeable because they share the updated Kilness Patent. This whole thing got a little out of hand. I was merely trying to make an overall general statement. I would like to consider this a draw.
 

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Packard V8

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The only aspect preventing me from buying a vintage ratchet is lower tooth count. If anyone has a particular suggestion, feel free to let me know, thanks :)

There's considerable marginal utility cost at work here.

Those of us who've been using vintage ratchets since they were new don't really see what's the BFD with the fine tooth. Yes, nicer to use, but generally at ten to a hundred times the price, are they going to get that much more work done?

Same with fixating on roller bearing slides in tool boxes. Again, those of us who've worked out of friction slide boxes our whole lives don't see how they've suddenly become scrap metal.

Bottom line - the most productive guy I know has the mangiest, hardest-used tools and boxes you'll ever see. I buy random stuff at yard sales, bring it to him, he works it hard and never stops to contemplate the tooth count.

Your opinions and results may vary.

jack vines
 

MShaw

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If "I do my best to make true statements" did you tell me I was wrong when it was obvious I was not. End of discussion>
 

Maui

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I picked up this box of ratchets, wrenches, sockets, etc. yesterday at a local auction for less than $60. The vintage ratchet is a Proto, and the Craftsman wrenches are all USA made. The smaller Snap-On breaker bar is nice, and after I won this box one of the other bidders came up to me and said that I got the deal of the day. He picked up the Snap-On bar and said that alone probably cost $100. Is this right?

Maui
 

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Maui

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Let's try uploading that other photo once more.

Maui
 

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supertooljunkie

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I agree on many of the choices mentioned. I have Williams Superratchet both a new one, and the older style with a gland nut holding guts in. I much prefer the older gland nut style. Much smoother than the new one. That goes for all sizes on Williams. New Britain ratchets are nice, as well as SK. The roundhead Indestro/Duro ratchets are right up there with the Williams, and New Britain. C-man RHFT are nice. I have newer ratchets, but normally go for the older units in my box. Older tools for an older geezer like myself......
 

MShaw

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I agree also. I have Snap on from the 1960 and New Britain from the 1970s. I tend to use the New Britain's more. Their claim to fame was that when torqued to failure the failure was always that the square sheared off. Never damaged the teeth in the ratchet frame. I am not sure if other round heads share this distinction. It was the result of the Kilness design which forces the pawl into more intimate contact with the teeth the harder you pull.
 

cgrutt

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He picked up the Snap-On bar and said that alone probably cost $100. Is this right?

Maui

Nah, probably $5 but I'll give you $12.50 for it ;)

Seriously, I think 1/2" Snap-on 24" breaker bars go for about $100 new. Not sure what size yours are or condition. Ebay would probably give you good idea as to used value.

You definitely did alright though with the whole purchase. Congrats!
 

KnurledNut

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Some not mentioned yet (i dont think):

Proto 5449/5450
Wright (dual pawl) 4400
Par-X UR-71
SK Kraueter design
Gray 5297/5297L
 

Davefr

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Some not mentioned yet (i dont think):

Proto 5449/5450


I actually did mention the Proto/Plomb 5449. But as ones to avoid.

Proto used a thin sheet metal selector lever and it's only held onto the outer shaft of the internal pawl cam by being peened on. It's very common for it to loosen up and when it does you need to push the lever beyond it's range of movement to disengage he pawl. (assuming it hasn't already fallen off and got lost).

It's the worst (wimpiest) selector design of any ratchet I've ever seen. You can't always re-peen it because there's often not enough metal to re-peen.

I think Proto improved the selector in the current model.
 

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bob15

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The only aspect preventing me from buying a vintage ratchet is lower tooth count. If anyone has a particular suggestion, feel free to let me know, thanks :)

The high tooth counts are over-rated.

There are countless thousands of 50 year old ratchets still being used with their original parts inside any issues.....don't drink the kool-aid of needing a high-tooth count ratchet because a low tooth count is junk.

I for one, don't like the feel of the high tooth ratchets. They feel like they will fail of have poor tooth to pawl contact whenever I use my one high tooth Snap On ratchet. If using a "newer" 3/8 ratchet, it will be a early 1990's F830 or FL830.
 

Kev442

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All these recommendations and no one is going to talk about the sound? I find the click-click of an older 1/2" ratchet to be far superior to the zzzzzztt the newer fine tooths make.....


But I've got to have higher tooth counts when using 3/8 drive in modern engine compartments.
 

KnurledNut

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Proto used a thin sheet metal selector lever and it's only held onto the outer shaft of the internal pawl cam by being peened on. It's very common for it to loosen up and when it does you need to push the lever beyond it's range of movement to disengage he pawl.

Yes, this is a well known issue, but minor, IMHO, and i have seen more loose and repeenable, than needing a kit.
These have-been/still-are a go to in the industry.
They are strong, with low backdrag, and low profile.
Again, IMHO, the pros outweigh the cons.
 

AL`

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All these recommendations and no one is going to talk about the sound? I find the click-click of an older 1/2" ratchet to be far superior to the zzzzzztt the newer fine tooths make.....


But I've got to have higher tooth counts when using 3/8 drive in modern engine compartments.
The Williams Superratchet is the best of both worlds IMO. The only exception being that the ratchet head isn't thin like a Matco BFR88 or Snapon FL80. The Williams both feels and sounds like precision with smooth yet discernible clicks.
 

Maui

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Cgrutt, thanks for letting me know. Yeah, I think he meant $100 new.

Davefr, the Proto ratchet I showed in the closeup above shows a much beefier set-up than the example you posted. Would mine be older than the one you described, or newer?

Maui
 
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