door opener for 10 foot door

[lynnbilodeau]

Title says it all.

I want to install it myself.

Need a good door opener to open a 9 foot tall door (yeah, title says 10, but I just measured and it is 9). Very well counterbalanced.

Current opener bit the dust. It is an Overhead brand, Odyssey 1000.

I would buy another just like it, but can't find one without paying the company to come install it.

Any help apprecieated.

 

[Moss]

I have a liftmaster 8500 on my 10x10 door. I like it a lot.

 

[Richard Cranium]

most major brands you can buy and extender kit for.

 

[ryan20021982]

Pretty much any of the diy stores that sells openers can get one for a 9' door

 

[jstroede]

Especially for a tall door like that, don't go to a home store. Get a Liftmaster. On those taller doors, the one piece rail makes a ton of difference. I recommend the 8500.

John

 

[cajunfirehawk]

I have a liftmaster 8500 on my 10x10 door. I like it a lot.

Ditto and Ditto! MyQ rocks too

 

[Rookie2]

The 8500 is high tech. Try a 3900 for a more back to basics unit. do a search on here ,there are a few discussions about pro's and con's.

 

[Muzzy]

most major brands you can buy and extender kit for.

I have a Craftsman opener with the extender kit on a 9' door on my barn. Its been in (non-daily) use for a year and works fine, but its not very elegant. As mentioned the multiple piece rails tend to look awkward.

IIRC the extender kit was $50, and the opener itself was $140. I bought it on a free shipping deal, so for $200 delivered it was hard to say no.

 

[finn]

I've got both an 8500 and a conventional chain drive (Genie?- was $98 on sale at Menards) with an extension kit on adjacent doors.

The 8500 is definitely a cleaner installation, but they are both functional and trouble free units.

Pay your money and take your choice

 

[lynnbilodeau]

Liftmaster won't work.

Says it "Must have front mount torsion springs for compatibility"

Our door has rear mounted torsion springs.

Or maybe it won't make a difference if it is front of rear.

I will post a couple of pics that will explain my issues.

 

[lynnbilodeau]

There is a 10 x 8 steel I beam holding up the second floor.

The rail on the current opener is 12 foot. There isn't room to put the motor on the other side of the beam.

Looks to me like I could attach the jackshaft type (8500) to the beam. I have welding skills and can weld brackets directly to the beam.

Instead of placing the jackshaft motor at the right front, I would place it at the left rear. Any reason that wouldn't work? Third pic is just a reference.

One of the springs broke last year, and it was a cinch to replace them (did the pair) because with the door all the way up, I can still get to the spring and it has almost no load.

Before someone tells me I just need to replace the chain, I can ASSURE you that isn't the only problem. Something in the board caused the motor to go haywire and overheat. I took the motor apart and got it back together and going. Trying to program it, it went nuts again and broke the chain.

So, at the very least, it needs a board, a motor and a chain. I am pretty sure I can buy a new opener for less.

Any reason NOT to try the liftmaster set up on the rear mounted torsion set up?

 

[Rookie2]

too complicated ! i would just replace whith a similar style unit.

 

[lakeroadster]

Liftmaster has an alternate mounting extension kit. Using that, and a bit of enginuity, the 3800 will work in most situations.

https://www.liftmaster.com/For-Businesses/Accessories/Gate-Operators/model-480LM-(1)

 

[Chevy-SS]

I've got two Liftmaster 8500's on my 10x8 doors. The door on the 4-post lift side raises almost straight up. There is a 45 degree roof angle right at the jackshaft location. Not sure if this answers your question, but this is a custom installation, so I thought it might help.

Good luck with your project!

-

 

[lynnbilodeau]

Ordered the 8500 with extra remotes and outdoor keypad.

Will post an update either when it is installed, or I figure out I can't install.

Thanks for the input.

 

[upndown]

Yikes! Just noticed on your pics not only are they rear mounted springs, but double track low headroom as well! Not sure if that's gonna work for you. Jack shaft openers seem to work ok when mounted to front torsion Assy, where the cable runs from the bottom of the door to the drum.

In your case it runs up over a sheave and all the way to to the back of the horizontal tracks before it reaches the drum. I'm concerned the initial torque when closing the door will throw your cables. Unfortunately can't say for sure, I've installed many rear mounts, but never with a jack shaft opener. Welcome to the world of trial and error!

Personally I would pursue a drawbar opener similar to what you have. Alot less headaches all around!

Please keep us informed on how you make out!

 

[djjsr]

That's the most unusual shaft/spring/cable/drum arrangement I've ever seen. Is that done because of inadequate space above the door?

 

[upndown]

Not unusual at all. Low headroom situations are always a challenge! The perfect description of three pounds of **** in a two pound bag.

 

[lynnbilodeau]

That's the most unusual shaft/spring/cable/drum arrangement I've ever seen. Is that done because of inadequate space above the door?

I am sure it is result of the low ceiling compared to the door height.

Has two tracks (didn't capture it well in the pic) because there is a separate track just for the very top roller.

This set up, although odd looking is very functional. Garage door lifts with very little effort and stays where put. That's why I was shocked when the old opener went south. It worked very well and was very quiet.... until it quit.

As stated above, I will post an update... good, bad, or ugly. Worst case scenario, the 8500 won't work, I sell it on ebay, and I get another opener to match the one I just removed, & I have a bunch of spare parts.

 

[upndown]

Good attitude! Just take your time. When it pisses you off, walk away for a few minutes or throw something. Works for me.

 

[gnpenning]

Your going to need pusher springs to help keep it from jumping the cables. Not sure how your are going to mount your cable sensor or the opener as it needs to have the bottom portion supported. you may be able to mount it horizontal. As you said you can fab something up, maybe... 8500 weren't designed for this application. With time and patience you maybe able to get it to work. If you throw something make sure you know where it's going to land... If you do make it work you should be very happy with it.

 

[lynnbilodeau]

Got the opener today. Went through the box and each step involved. Can't see anything that I can't make work. Welded some angle iron to my 10 x 8 overhead "I" beam to mount the opener. Will screw a 2x6 to some overhead wood to mount the cable slack sensor.

I couldn't start the install, because the existing tube for the springs is not long enough to attach the opener directly to the tube. My brother is picking one up for me tomorrow, and we will start the install on Sat.

Like I said, good bad or ugly, it gets posted. Don't plan to throw anything on this project. I NORMALLY reserve throwing things for when:

1. I have to fix someone else's fubar,
2. I have a "new and improved" part that isn't worth chit and breaks immediately,
3. Some engineer got paid to make something that will not work long term, and I have to re-engineer the thing, usually making is simpler than the original.

and lastly,

4. I just did something so incredibly stupid, I can't believe how difficult I just made a simple job (yeah, it happens).

 

[upndown]

Ohhhh..the memories!

Not laughing at you! You shoulda seen some of the **** I did over the years.

 

[lynnbilodeau]

Laugh away buddy. You aren't going to hurt my feelings.

 

[lynnbilodeau]

Got it installed today. First opener I have installed in many years, but believe this is much easier than the traditional style.

Changed out the spring tube, reset the tension on the springs, and made some adjustments to the tracks etc. to make sure everything was moving smoothly.

Had to weld one more little piece of steel on my bracket, as I forgot to allow for the thickness of the collar. Not a big deal at all.

Almost didn't have quite enough wire on the dead bolt, but made it, just barely. Everything else was very straight forward.

Very quiet operation. Couldn't have asked that it go any better.

Will post some pics when I get a chance.

 

[upndown]

Glad to hear it worked out! They always look a lot worse at first glance. Good job man!

 

[lynnbilodeau]

I think these are mostly self explanatory.

First pic is the opener. You can see the cable slack sensor. I just screwed a 2x6 to the joists to mount the sensor.

Brackets for the opener are welded to the 10 x 8 "I" beem.

Been so long since I installed an opener, this is my first one with the safety beam!

I am really glad to be rid of chain, belt or screw. So quiet. Ordered some made in usa nylon rollers with ball bearings, and will replace those next week.

Thanks for the encouragement along the way.

BTW, didn't throw anything. Install went smoothly.