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Installing air lines in the garage

MFortie

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Aug 9, 2010
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901
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San Diego County
I just finished my airline system in my 40'x60' shop. I opted for an AIRnet system (Atlas Copco) using the PF fittings. Very easy to work with and looks cool! ;)

I suspended mine from the purlins around the perimeter with five drops, a drain leg, and the riser from the compressor - I haven't bought the compressor yet but did my pressure testing with a little pancake compressor.

It's certainly not the least expensive solution, but this is my 'dream shop' and part of my retirement (in about six years) plan so I figured I'd go ahead and splurge.
 
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JCQuick

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Nov 29, 2008
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Apopka Fla.
To each his own, but I don't know why anyone would consider anything but black pipe for air. It's cheap and easy to work with, and although it will rust, it probably isn't going to lose it's integrity in the user's lifetime. The factory I work in has tens of thousands of feet of it, mostly running at 120 psi, and most of it has been in place since the early '80s. I would never use pvc, cpvc, or a soldered copper joint for air.

Yep blk pipe is what I plan to use. I worked for a petroleum company and we did large installs and black pipe was all we ever used
 

vision8

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Jan 19, 2012
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Southern Ontario Canada
The ratings for any plastic pipe are for constant pressure ; if you have heard water hammer in copper pipes that is nothing compared to 100 psi on a quick action shut-off valve or any air tool that requires maximum cfm to drive it ! When the trigger is released the line is subject to maximum pressure no accumulator to cushin the line pressure.
I would beware of using anything but black pipe !
I do have my 'gas ticket' and installed Oxygen , Coke Oven and Blast Furnace lines in a former life.
 

SgtHawkUSMC

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US
Think twice about black pipe. I know a lot of guys use it, but it's a big mistake. Take a six inch piece and run some water through it a few times and leave it out. Guess what you'll find pretty quickly. Scaled rust every time. I had one small piece connected to my compressor then to copper. When I pulled it apart, it was a mess. Imagine what that does to filters or air lines etc. All compressors create a ton of condensation. That's why people make air driers/condensers and add drains at every drop. Copper is the only way to go in my book.
 

WhiffySpark

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Oct 22, 2009
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I worked in a shop that ran 150 psi line pressure through 3/4 PVC everywhere. They never had an issue

We had 175 on a one inch PVC line for the 1 inch gun. Different compressor never any issues

But I'm going the rapid air way in my garage
 

checkthisout

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I think rapid air is the cheapest unless you're able to get copper or black pipe below market value.
 

Rossco

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Great White North
I ran Black pipe. 3/4 main line with 1/2 drops. Cools the air good. The system I built is Modular. Can be pulled apart with an Allen key.

Just need a full pressure filter before the regulator. Point of use.
 

stang2007

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Sep 20, 2013
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Lincoln CA
I got the rapid air Kit in 1/2 for my garage but I only have Basic Air tools running, impact, air ratchet etc... nothing that is a BIG CFM user.


Was easy to install, I would recommend it to anyone looking to add air line to the garage
 

plow

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Feb 12, 2013
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Louisiana
Tell ya what. When you get it pumped up to a crazy pressure, smack it hard with a 2x4. Try to make it look like an accident, ya know, cause we're trying to be realistic. Oh, and take a vid of it.



Why would I do that? I never said it would NEVER rupture. I am saying I've run it for years with zero problems.
 

BD1

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north side
Just because the PVC manufactures state it is not to be used for air lines, doesn't mean anything. PVC or BUST. USUALLY it will BUST ! :lol_hitti
 

WhiffySpark

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Just because the PVC manufactures state it is not to be used for air lines, doesn't mean anything. PVC or BUST. USUALLY it will BUST ! :lol_hitti

Does any manufacturer actually say that? They say not to use pex but the stuff that is 4-5 times more expensive is fine. Plenty of people run pex

I'm not a fan of PVC either. But I wonder if the issues caused are user error. Bad joints, pull on the pipe where it connect to your airline, etc :dunno:
 

RayBob58

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Jan 1, 2015
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St. Louis, MO
Why would I do that? I never said it would NEVER rupture. I am saying I've run it for years with zero problems.

You were trying to prove a point by pumping it up to a crazy pressure. I just thought I'd prove a point by showing what happens when you accidentally smack a pvc air line under pressure. Because accidents happen.
 

Rossco

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Great White North
Yeah. Black pipe if correctly installed is self supporting and real real tough.

Just pressurized my install up today and had zero worries about failure.
 

BD1

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Does any manufacturer actually say that? They say not to use pex but the stuff that is 4-5 times more expensive is fine. Plenty of people run pex

I'm not a fan of PVC either. But I wonder if the issues caused are user error. Bad joints, pull on the pipe where it connect to your airline, etc :dunno:

Here is some info, OSHA and from the PVC industries.
https://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html

http://www.usplastic.com/knowledgebase/article.aspx?contentkey=787

http://www.aircompressorworks.com/blog/index.php?mode=post&id=34
 

Schurkey

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Oct 27, 2011
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The Seasonally Frozen Wastelands
3/4" Copper double-loop from compressor tank to regulator/moisture filter. to reduce metal fatigue. 3/4 Black iron from there, vertical section with another moisture trap, and a quick-coupler. The horizontal section at the top of that vertical is set at an angle so it drains to the vertical section. One drop at the end, with moisture trap at the bottom (never any water there) and a quick-coupler. I have surprisingly little water in this system. My old compressor would spit water out the tool exhausts, but I had a single-stage compressor and no metal pipe at all--just a long hose from the tank to the tool.

All my original quick-couplers are replaced with Milton "V" couplers.
I have a pull-to-activate moisture-expeller valve that I haven't installed yet. Easier to operate than the brass draincock in the bottom of the air tank. If I like it enough, I'll get two more for the other water traps.

Things I forgot when I built the air system:
1. I should have installed ball valves here and there to isolate various sections. In fact, I was thinking I should add ball valves instead of the quick-couplers directly on the iron pipe. I could just semi-permanently screw the air hose to the ball valve, and eliminate the restriction of the quick-coupler. This seems less-important now that I have the high-flow "V" couplers.
2. I should have installed a ~20-gallon air tank at the far end to act as an accumulator (and to just plain add capacity)
3. I like the idea of installing a pressure gauge at the far end of the system, as described in an early post.
4. On-off switch for the compressor OTHER than the circuit breaker.






Again, the Milton V-style couplers and plugs are AMAZING.




Now you guys have me thinking I should pull the system apart to fix a persistent leak in the DAMNED CHINESE IRON PIPE THREADS, and to add a few of the "missing" features. I could also look to see how much rust has accumulated in the iron pipe over the last ten years. Yay. Another "project".
 
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Rossco

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Great White North
3/4" Copper double-loop from compressor tank to regulator/moisture filter. to reduce metal fatigue. 3/4 Black iron from there, vertical section with another moisture trap, and a quick-coupler. The horizontal section at the top of that vertical is set at an angle so it drains to the vertical section. One drop at the end, with moisture trap at the bottom (never any water there) and a quick-coupler. I have surprisingly little water in this system. My old compressor would spit water out the tool exhausts, but I had a single-stage compressor and no metal pipe at all--just a long hose from the tank to the tool.

All my original quick-couplers are replaced with Milton "V" couplers.
I have a pull-to-activate moisture-expeller valve that I haven't installed yet. Easier to operate than the brass draincock in the bottom of the air tank. If I like it enough, I'll get two more for the other water traps.

Things I forgot when I built the air system:
1. I should have installed ball valves here and there to isolate various sections. In fact, I was thinking I should add ball valves instead of the quick-couplers directly on the iron pipe. I could just semi-permanently screw the air hose to the ball valve, and eliminate the restriction of the quick-coupler. This seems less-important now that I have the high-flow "V" couplers.
2. I should have installed a ~20-gallon air tank at the far end to act as an accumulator (and to just plain add capacity)
3. I like the idea of installing a pressure gauge at the far end of the system, as described in an early post.
4. On-off switch for the compressor OTHER than the circuit breaker.






Again, the Milton V-style couplers and plugs are AMAZING.




Now you guys have me thinking I should pull the system apart to fix a persistent leak in the DAMNED CHINESE IRON PIPE THREADS, and to add a few of the "missing" features. I could also look to see how much rust has accumulated in the iron pipe over the last ten years. Yay. Another "project".

God Dam it.

I should have added 3/4 ball valves to help with leak isolation. And maybe an extra tank. And maybe a full bore system pressure 1/2 chuck incase I need to ramp a 3/4 gun up. Extra pressure gauges. Now Iam thinking I should pull it off and paint it up.

Should 'A' Could 'A' Would 'A'
 

jloehlein

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Nov 18, 2012
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191
Location
Richmond, VA
When I researched Rapid Air, I found the 1/2" systems are inexpensive, but I wanted 3/4". The tubing for the system is comparable to copper, but all of the fittings are massively expensive. For example, every 3/4" tee fitting is $20 and each wall-mount outlet is $30. Compare that to like $3 for a copper tee and < $10 for each wall outlet (I used a tee, a 3/4" NPT adapter, and a 1/4" reducer for each outlet). I ruled Rapid Air out because of expense. If you don't need many outlets or don't mind spending the money, these systems seem nice.

I ultimately went with copper over iron pipe because I find soldering copper to be simple, and I found a deal on a bunch of 20' or 24' sticks on Craigslist. I didn't look too much into iron pipe, and am not very familiar with how to join sections and fittings, other than threading - and I didn't want to buy threading tools or have to deal with buying different lengths of pipe.

Things I learned or would do differently:

1) use loctite 567 pipe thread sealant on any threaded connections, not teflon tape
2) i put drain pipes under all of my outlets - in hindsight, this was overkill for my setup (my drops come out of the top of my pipe and my compressor has an aftercooler) - I've never had a drop of water come out of them
3) don't buy cheap ball valves. get good, full-port ball valves where air will be flowing through them to your tools (vs just the drain valves)
4) it would be best if your flexible connections have at least one swivel end. I used hydraulic hose with no swivels to attach my compressor to the air system and i threaded everything together as I built the system. I can't pull the hose out of there (to replace one of my leaky ball valves) without cutting it out. oh well, good thing that leak is really small
5) get the Milton V couplers and plugs, like Schurkey said. there are sellers on the sears website that have the couplers for ~$5 and plugs for < $1. I think I spent less on these fittings than the more restrictive ones I bought at Lowes.
 

RAYJAY

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May 29, 2006
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UNION DALE PA
all black pipe here did 3/4 for mains and 1/2 drops, used blue block pipe dope on all joints no leaks since the install in 2007 followed tp tool pdf and it work great also not galvanized pipe, its black pipe painted with silver hammer mill paint

http://cached.tptools.com/Images/airline-piping-diagram.pdf
 

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Moose364

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Oct 21, 2014
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East Texas
I have had Rapid Air Maxine full loop system installed going on 2 years and could not be happier I have stainless steel pipe coming from compressor through wall then into Maxine, copper would have been my second choice, Black pipe was never considered due to rust, I air brush so I need the clean air, and who wants rust going through air tools anyway.
 

94EG8

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Apr 5, 2015
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248
I went with aluminum Quick Line from Topring, but there are other companies that make a similar product. It's specifically designed for supplying shop air, works great, it's super light, very easy to work with, easy to change later, it's just on the expensive side. BUT, if you use the stuff I did you can save a lot of money by using Shark Bite fittings instead of the Topring/Itap fittings that go with the pipe.
 

RAYJAY

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I have had Rapid Air Maxine full loop system installed going on 2 years and could not be happier I have stainless steel pipe coming from compressor through wall then into Maxine, copper would have been my second choice, Black pipe was never considered due to rust, I air brush so I need the clean air, and who wants rust going through air tools anyway.


see previous post my black pipe is in a long time, and have no "rust" going into my air tools or when i paint with my system, however when you paint no mater what system you have you do need to filter the air , the compresser oil is more of a problem than rust ever was .....
 

Schurkey

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Things I learned or would do differently:

1) use loctite 567 pipe thread sealant on any threaded connections, not teflon tape
Loctite 567 is terrific stuff. The only instance of it NOT sealing in my experience...is my DAMNED CHINESE IRON PIPE. Fixing that leak will either require re-threading, or removing the Loctite and replacing with Teflon tape.
 

Moose364

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East Texas
see previous post my black pipe is in a long time, and have no "rust" going into my air tools or when i paint with my system, however when you paint no mater what system you have you do need to filter the air , the compresser oil is more of a problem than rust ever was .....

Nothing against anyone using Black pipe, But here in Texas where we have days with 100% humidity it would take a act of god to find any Brand new at the store without surface rust already inside before you even start trying to install it, and I agree 100% with a water separated and filter anytime you are slinging paint, and on my Plasma cutter air goes through 3 filters and 2 water separator before it hits the plasma cutter, and wish I could afford a inline dryer but man they are high, :willy_nil
 

plow

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Louisiana
You were trying to prove a point by pumping it up to a crazy pressure. I just thought I'd prove a point by showing what happens when you accidentally smack a pvc air line under pressure. Because accidents happen.


Why don't you go smack your wife and tell me how that works out for you.


That sound dumb right???
 

plow

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Louisiana
Nothing against anyone using Black pipe, But here in Texas where we have days with 100% humidity it would take a act of god to find any Brand new at the store without surface rust already inside before you even start trying to install it, and I agree 100% with a water separated and filter anytime you are slinging paint, and on my Plasma cutter air goes through 3 filters and 2 water separator before it hits the plasma cutter, and wish I could afford a inline dryer but man they are high, :willy_nil



I'm almost certain theirs some DIY dryers here somewhere. My search-fu is weak, otherwise I would post up a link for you. I may build one myself one day. Got a few projects ahead of that to do first tho.
 

RayBob58

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Jan 1, 2015
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St. Louis, MO
Why don't you go smack your wife and tell me how that works out for you. That sound dumb right???

Yeah, you're sounding more dumb all the time. But it does sound like you agree that pvc isn't a good idea for air, so that's two things we agree on.
 
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Divcod

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Jan 9, 2015
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319
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Pacific Northwest
Used 3/4" copper through a series of u bends to cool air as much as possible. Set pipe away from wall for additional cooling. Air is dry without using my dryer so far pretty pleased. Use the dryer line for the plasma cutter and paint. Sorry the picture is side ways.
 

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nikerret

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Kansas
Here's my black pipe air line thread:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5338523

If I were to do it, again, I would likely go with the copper. In the end, the price difference would have been negligible. I thought I could save some money, going black pipe but I lost my original plans and had to buy a lot more stuff, because, for some reason, the stuff I'd already bought didn't make a system that met my goals.

The main reason I would go copper is future expandability. I thought ahead, and capped several tee's throughout the system, in for future projects. With the copper, you don't have to plan as far ahead.
 

FIRE UP

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Ramona. CA
Here's my black pipe air line thread:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5338523

If I were to do it, again, I would likely go with the copper. In the end, the price difference would have been negligible. I thought I could save some money, going black pipe but I lost my original plans and had to buy a lot more stuff, because, for some reason, the stuff I'd already bought didn't make a system that met my goals.

The main reason I would go copper is future expandability. I thought ahead, and capped several tee's throughout the system, in for future projects. With the copper, you don't have to plan as far ahead.

Well,
That's why I went with copper. I planned it ahead but, I also knew that there may or, may not be changes in the future. If so, it's no big deal. I'd just need to unscrew some of the mounting blocks, bow it off the wall and cut away. Then install whatever the game plan called for. But, for now and, the immediate future, I'm ecstatic with the system, especially since the initial pressurization, which was over a week ago, NOT ONE POUND PRESSURE LOSS!! Yahoooooo!
Scott



 

Pwrgeek

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Oct 18, 2015
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288
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Texas USA
I'm using RapidAir. The one thing that I do differently than most is that I have mine sloped so all the water goes back to the compressor where I have an automatic drain.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

PeterT

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Jul 31, 2011
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Toledo Ohio
I stopped by my local plumbing supply house and picked up 140 ft of black pipe (MADE IN USA). I also ordered enough valves, moisture reducers & air regulators for 4 drops off the TPTOOLS website. Now I just need to make the time to plumb this puppy.

2035_L_1c34657a.jpg
 
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