Safety of Arc Welding Helmets

[baugh009]

The "Old Newbie" is back, still trying to learn what I have forgotten from high school metal shop some 55 years ago. (Just bought me a low-end Lincoln stick welder.) Of course, back then all we had were "stick" welders, and opaque visor helmets. Now, apparently, the common ones only go dark when "lit-up."

Are these "automatic" helmets 100% safe to use, especially if not bought new?
(Given, I guess, what appears to be near universal usage, this question may come under the rubric of, "If not dumb, then very close to it.")

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I'm not a pro by any means, but have been playing with my welder for a few years now. I've used cheap *** auto dark helmets and they seem to work just fine. But do look for ones with more than two sensors as when welding in awkward locations I would get a flash if the sensors are obscured.

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[gdocktor3]

I am taking a metal fab class one day a week. I bought a miller elite for $285. I think its the elite, All i know its there bigger auto dark viewing window. Went from Harbor freight to that. I don't go home with with spots in my eyes now.

So you were using an auto darkening helmet from HF and you would see spots?

 

[Zeke]

The cheap helmets work fine for SMAW. If not adjustable for shade, they seem to default at about #10 which is good for stick. When doing TIG, I suggest a better helmet with more features and faster.

The thing is, don't buy a 40 dollar helmet for $100. It happens all the time that retailers sell the same 40 buck unit and pass it off as something better. To me, helmets come in 2 groups: bottom of the price range, all being about the same thing, and better helmets which will start at a buck fiddy and go to 600. For those yon need to do research.

But don't toss your old static helmet. It could come in handy.

And make sure any helmet you have allows for the addition of magnifying lenses and inside lens protection. Wear your safety glasses whether prescription or plain while wearing your helmet.


PS, I love my gold static lens.

 

[Superbec]

best protection you will ever have is from glass , depending on how good you still see you will have to choose between shade 9 and 13, the higher the number the better protection but you'll see less.

you only have to see the arc,puddle and a few millimeters in front of the pudle

I think you will be fine with any helmet that WORKS (safety wize)

There were a couple of instances students had auto darkening that didn't actually work and they didn't even know that, that's why the glass is the best option for the newb or 2 times a year diy-er

 

[Crazyjake8493]

Four sensors vs two makes a world of difference. I always test mine quick with a flint striker, just a quick spark to make sure the helmet will darken. Better safe than sorry.

 

[Robert Haas]

MyMiller rep explained the the big difference in the cheap units and the Pro level is the actual time it takes to darken. Our eyes operate at around 20 Hrtz. and these auto units from HF are in the 30 to 60 Hrtz range. however the Pro stuff is 4 or 5 times faster then that, the damage to our optic nerve is permanent and exposure to the flash even at 1/30th of a second is dangerous.

 

[ritestuff]

MyMiller rep explained the the big difference in the cheap units and the Pro level is the actual time it takes to darken. Our eyes operate at around 20 Hrtz. and these auto units from HF are in the 30 to 60 Hrtz range. however the Pro stuff is 4 or 5 times faster then that, the damage to our optic nerve is permanent and exposure to the flash even at 1/30th of a second is dangerous.

So the data provided by the Miller rep is suggesting that HF is willfully, knowingly, selling a product that is factually causing it's consumers permanent eye damage. Either there is a flaw in the data, or HF should be preparing for billions of dollars in potential lawsuits coming their way.

 

[rockinacummins]

best protection you will ever have is from glass , depending on how good you still see you will have to choose between shade 9 and 13, the higher the number the better protection but you'll see less.

you only have to see the arc,puddle and a few millimeters in front of the pudle

I think you will be fine with any helmet that WORKS (safety wize)

There were a couple of instances students had auto darkening that didn't actually work and they didn't even know that, that's why the glass is the best option for the newb or 2 times a year diy-er

This, exactly. I use an auto darkening for doing exhaust or if it's really tedious work. Otherwise, I use nothing but a #10 gold lens.

 

[Robert Haas]

So the data provided by the Miller rep is suggesting that HF is willfully, knowingly, selling a product that is factually causing it's consumers permanent eye damage. Either there is a flaw in the data, or HF should be preparing for billions of dollars in potential lawsuits coming their way.

Being that it is HF. I seriously doubt the helmets do not come with a disclaimer telling the user they are not rated for welding

However the data is correct and the operating cycle is much lower then the Pro stuff.

 

[Todd.Brock]

I have a Jackson Nexgen 4 sensor that gets used infrequent at best. It gets confused if I am in the garage but it's really bright and sunny. Sometimes it won't clear up so I can see. It's weird. I replace the battery before I use it and it seems fine. I am a poor metal gluer so not having to flip my hood up and down a bunch is helpful.

 

[PSYKO_Inc]

If you already have a fixed hood, you can buy drop in auto dark lenses. I'd avoid the cheap imported stuff, but I've heard good things about Miller and ArcOne lenses. I don't do a ton of welding, but for me a flip-up fixed shade works just fine.

 

[Tim37]

I borrowed a HF hood a few days ago it worked fine but I did notice that it didn't seem to react very fast and my eyes where fatigued that evening. The hf eanst nearly as good as my arc one and that is by no means a high end hood.
A old timer once told me to blink right as your striking your arc that way your eyes are closed during that flash. I think with the newer better quality hoods you don't need to do that. But might not be a bad idea with a HF or some other cheaper hood.

 

[dr_clyde]

I weld professionally, and I use a #10 gold lens fixed shade in a $40 Jackson Shadow helmet.

The optical clarity is far better than auto shade helmets, allowing me to better see the temperature gradients better on thinner stainless.

Plus they're cheap so I can have like 5 of them and I don't get upset if they get dropped off a scissor lift or submerged in a tank of water or some **** like that.

Pretty much all helmets will protect you from UV light and infrared heat. Where the cheap helmets fail is the lack of sensors, tendency to not darken quickly or at all, lack of features, comfort, weight, yadda yadda. Better quality helmets protect your retinas better.

For the $300 or so to buy an auto darkening, I can buy a nice fixed shade or two and never have to swap batteries.

Disclaimer, I do have a Jackson NexGen autoshade helmet. I like it for weird position welds where you can't nod easily. The other 99% of the time, its fixed shade all the way.

 

[gdocktor3]

I knew HF welding masks weren't as good as the rest. I never understood why people would cheap out on something that protects two of your most important body parts. A Lincoln auto dark helmet can be had for around $100 +/- and the save phace masks for about the same. The HF is $55. I'd rather pay the $50 more and know my eyes are safe.

 

[Mohawk Dave]

I would see spots with my HF, now I have a nice Jackson and no spots plus better view.

Don't cheap out on your eyes. I thought the HF was good until I tried a good one.

I bought the Jackson BH3 for $240, and that was not the best price ever, but I wanted it right then...http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AAQ4ZPK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[CNGsaves]

^ ^ ^ Good Advice guys to avoid the cheapie HF welding helmet !!

Not worth messing your eyes up when plenty of affordable quality helmets out there.

 

[gdocktor3]

I would see spots with my HF, now I have a nice Jackson and no spots plus better view.

Don't cheap out on your eyes. I thought the HF was good until I tried a good one.

I'm glad to hear you say that. I don't weld much, but often advise against the HF helmets when I see people ask on here. It's obvious that a $54 welding helmet isn't going to be good. That's just ridiculous that people buy stuff like that from HF. I won't buy anything mechanical from HF, let alone something that is going to protect my eyes!!

 

[Mohawk Dave]

I'm glad to hear you say that. I don't weld much, but often advise against the HF helmets when I see people ask on here. It's obvious that a $54 welding helmet isn't going to be good. That's just ridiculous that people buy stuff like that from HF. I won't buy anything mechanical from HF, let alone something that is going to protect my eyes!!

Yea, I read pretty good reviews on the HF helmet, and now I think those must be from people that haven't used a good helmet.

It wasn't extremely bad with the HF, but even the smallest amount IS bad for your eyes, so after using it maybe twice, I bought the Jackson and now completely advise against the HF.

 

[sberry]

It might be a bright flash but there is a UV filter on the lens. But my Hobart hood crapped out and am using an HF I bought as a backup and I like it as good or better.

 

[Schurkey]

I had a "name brand" auto-darkening helmet. I think it was a Hobart.

Fukkin' thing had a "rechargeable" , non-replaceable battery and a "solar cell" to do the recharging. The only adjustment was for the shade of darkness.

As soon as the arc stopped, it would immediately lighten. Then the arc re-starts, and I'd get the flash. I HATED that helmet.

 

[texasfiremedic]

I have been welding for many years professionally. I have had Fibremetal, Huntsman, Miller and Jackson. I will admit that I have used a HF hood a few of times when my hood was not available. The main hood that I use now is a Miller digital elite. I have a Jackson elite which I used for several years. I do believe in switching time and the quantity of sensors. The lowest witch time and 4 sensors. I can say that I do miss my old pipeliner and a good glass lens. On the other hand i can say that I will not go back unless I feeling nostalgic that day. I like the miller's headgear and optics but, I just don't like how cheap the hood feels. It seems like I paid how much for this and where is the rest of it but, I have been getting over that.

So in conclusion don't buy a HF what ever you do. They are junk and will always be junk. There are too many options out there that won't hurt you eyes.

Here is a couple.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/North-110PW...801065?hash=item1a03512c29:g:pYQAAOSwMmBVsHVF

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jackson-Saf...960393?hash=item5682a3cd09:g:frYAAOSwKtVWyewE

 

[Moose364]

To me it depends on which HF you have the blue one you will get the flash sometimes when striking a arc. The Red one is much better of a hood plus you can switch it to grind mode. I keep the red one for a back-up, my main hood is a snap-on large view. The down side is to put the snap on in grind mode you have to take it off to get to the switch, the red HF its on the outside so you can switch it and never have to raise your hood.

 

[Mark in Indiana]

I just stay with the static helmet. Mainly because that's what I used when I learned to weld + years later, it's fine for the few times a year that I weld, and I fully trust it.

 

[Jim Diesel]

We use auto shut of helmets at work. We just ensure the visor filter is suitable for the type of welding and that the helmet meets Australian standards. If after welding you are seeing spots or your eyes are sore, something is amiss.

 

[Roberts210]

I do a fair amount of welding some times. I've been doing a lot the last 4 weeks on a project revamping old steel casement windows. I use the old-style, fixed-shade helmet--the kind you give your head a nod and it comes down. Sometimes I use a small LED flashlight to illuminate where I want to strike the arc.

 

[txbonds]

Not as nice as some of the big names models but the kobalt one at lowes is reasonably priced, has 4 sensors, and plenty of settings. I've been using mine for a few years in home and hobby use with good results. Never had a flash problem and always get good, quick response even in tough light and angle situations like having the sun behind you when outdoors or having your head off center or at funky angles.

Item: 396400
Model #: SGY-A11

http://www.lowes.com/pd_396400-47120-SGY-A11_1z0vjn5Z1z0wchw__

 

[crewchief888]

i have no experience with the HF hoods, i had (cheap) one from northern tool a few years ago, every time i used it, i'd end up with burning eyes and a headache.

the damn thing flashed me really bad at work one day, and i nearly lost my mind.


the hood went flying, when it stopped bouncing, i got in a loader and ran it over several times before i tossed it in the dumpster.

i have 2 miller pro hobby hoods now, one in the garage, and one in my service truck..

along with 3 or 4 more "vintage" fixed shade hoods, and a hood that was a gift from the wife our 2nd year together.

 

[not-required]

I got a speedglas at work that I love. Great clarity, comfortable head gear and really light. At home I have a Lincoln viking that it's awesome also but heavy and a fixed shape pipeliners hood. Use the viking for tig and the fix shade for heavy mig and stick. The speedglas handles everything at work

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[baugh009]

My question has been answered: It either will be an "upper-end," 4-sensor, auto-darkening, or an "old style" opaque. probably the latter. Thank you all for responding.

baugh009