What is the best budget battery analyzer / tester?

[impactsocket]

What is the best budget battery analyzer / tester? What is the best for under $100?

Solar BA9

The BA9 tests 12 Volt batteries with an operating range of 40-1200 CCA and is optimized to test four distinct battery types: Conventional Flooded Acid, AGM Flat Plate, AGM Spiral Wound and Gel Cell batteries. The tester provides accurate assessment of both charged and discharged batteries (down to 7 Volts) and features a variety of safety features, including reverse polarity and over-voltage protection, to make testing safer for the operator and equipment being tested.

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Harbor Freight Cen-Tech

Con: The unit has a frustrating interface, and it is hard to get the digits to advance. Also, when you connect to the battery, there are noticeable small sparks at the terminals, since it powers up immediately. Not good. We all know batteries produce hydrogen when charging.

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Ctek

Con: Only gives the state of the battery as good, recharge and retest, or bad. The Solar BA9, which is in the same price range, gives much more information about the condition, charge, and health of the battery.

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OTC 3183 Digital Battery Tester

Con: Bad review from Amazon: I had to send this back. It would not work on any kind of battery I tried it on. I called the manufacturer and they said it was not reliable for testing AGM or any deep cycle marine battery. It even gave me a false test on a known good battery that I was using. It would only test ok on that battery if I changed the setting to below 32 degree's when the temp in my garage was at 60.

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Midtronics PBT300

Question: Is the Midtronics PBT300 better than the sub $100 battery analyzers???

 

[jallyn]

This one is interesting to me since I don't have any. What about a "dumb" tester...just the old resistive load and ammeter type?

 

[impactsocket]

Many on this board have stated Carbon Pile Battery Testers are bad for modern cars.

 

[isr2kba]

Many on this board have stated Carbon Pile Battery Testers are bad for modern cars.

I don't doubt it.

-However-

If you use any sort of load test on a battery while that battery is in an unknown charge state and/or hooked up to any sort of load besides the tester, the results are useless and the test is pointless.

In other words the only valid conditions for a battery load test are full charge AND disconnected.

 

[Fedwrench]

The best budget one is to bee bop down to your local parts store and have them test it for free

Seriously though, many of the lower priced battery testers really only display open cell voltage and neither load test the battery or use conductance to test the battery. You could get the same results with a DVOM.
I think you would have to pony up more money and invest in Midtronics made tester. Check Ebay though.

 

[gdocktor3]

I know you want under $100, but for just a few more you can get an obd2 scanner and battery tester combo. Unless you already have a scanner then Nevermind. I know Autel, actron and others make them. Here's an example 2 I found
http://m.aliexpress.com/item/323334...539B-auto&tracelog=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091DJWKG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[impactsocket]

OTC Tools 3200 Smart Battery Tester

This is an advanced battery analyzer unlike all the ones above but it cost $287.45

The first Battery Tester allowing you to print, save or email a comprehensive, full color data report.Near-instant test displays Battery Health along with Charging and Starting system health.

Compatible with both iOS and Android devices, including smart phones and tablets.

Videos:

https://www.otctools.com/products/3200

 

[impactsocket]

Fedwrench. Most budget sub $100 battery analyzers do use conductance to test the battery.

gdocktor3. I have an obd2 scanner and dvom already but they don't tell you what the CA and CCA is on the battery.

 

[sberry]

I don't doubt it.

-However-

If you use any sort of load test on a battery while that battery is in an unknown charge state and/or hooked up to any sort of load besides the tester, the results are useless and the test is pointless.

In other words the only valid conditions for a battery load test are full charge AND disconnected.

This thing is worth every penny and one of my H F top pickc. Yes it should be charged but after a couple uses a guy gets a feel forr what he is doing,. Pays for itself near every time it's used.

 

[zakmartin]

I have a Solar tester and honestly, it's only good if you know what kind of battery you're testing and what the CCA is supposed to be. It's been my experience that many OEM batteries don't list their CCA number because selling a battery with more CCAs isn't a motivating factor. I find myself going back to my old carbon pile load tester all the time, so my simple answer is that it's good to have more than one testing option available.

 

[impactsocket]

zakmartin, you can find out what your OEM CCA is at this url:

http://www.autobatteries.com/en-us

 

[sberry]

The HF tester is even better,, ha, cost 50 instead of 100.

 

[Showkey]

I have a Solar tester and honestly, it's only good if you know what kind of battery you're testing and what the CCA is supposed to be. It's been my experience that many OEM batteries don't list their CCA number because selling a battery with more CCAs isn't a motivating factor. I find myself going back to my old carbon pile load tester all the time, so my simple answer is that it's good to have more than one testing option available.

Or just guess on the CCA............if it's in the ball park the tester will give you a a actual tested value. Europe uses EN sizes and ratings which the Solar can use.

 

[geartow]

I have 2 midtronics an older pbt200 and a pbt300 they both work wonderfully and would recomeend them highly. Had the oldcarbon pile tester my thought is you are just dead shorting a battery. I have a toaster one also but it is no better that the carbon pile tester.

 

[impactsocket]

I was considering the Midtronics PBT300 but the Solar BA9 seems to do everything a Midtronics PBT300 can do.

Solar BA9 is $71.54 at amazon.com

Midtronics PBT300 is $235.48 at amazon.com

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Solar BA9 can also give you the alternator voltage and ripple voltage for the alternator diodes


Video on the Solar BA9:

BA9 Solar Battery and System Tester Review:

http://www.jeffsreviews.com/ba9-solar-battery-system-tester-review/

 

[Ed ke6bnl]

I have a carbon pile and the Harbor Freight one, I like the no drain down of the HF one seems to be accurate and gives me a good idea of the batteries capacity
I don't put in the cca of the battery just see what it comes out to, if not more then 500cca its not good for me.

 

[theoldwizard1]

In other words the only valid conditions for a battery load test are full charge AND disconnected.

This thing (HF battery load tester) is worth every penny and one of my H F top picks. Yes, it should be charged, but after a couple uses a guy gets a feel for what he is doing,. Pays for itself near every time it's used.

I am glad to see what I was taught about lead-acid batteries almost 50 years ago has not changed (and neither has the chemical reaction that goes on inside one )

The "quick and dirty" method is

• Run the car at high idle for 5-10 minutes making sure that the voltage at the battery hits at least 13.8V for some period of time (it could be for only a few seconds after cranking)
• Turn the engine off; if the battery voltage is NOT > 13V the battery is not fully charged or is bad
• Turn the headlight with high beams on for 5-10 minutes
• If the battery voltage is below 11.5V, the battery is bad

A carbon pile load tester does the last 2 steps in less than 1 minute !

 

[Schurkey]

The "quick and dirty" method is

• Run the car at high idle for 5-10 minutes making sure that the voltage at the battery hits at least 13.8V for some period of time (it could be for only a few seconds after cranking)
• Turn the engine off; if the battery voltage is NOT > 13V the battery is not fully charged or is bad
• Turn the headlight with high beams on for 5-10 minutes
• If the battery voltage is below 11.5V, the battery is bad

A carbon pile load tester does the last 2 steps in less than 1 minute !

Nice. A reasonable, no-cost battery testing method.

This strikes me as remarkably similar to on-board computer interfaces: Consumer-grade equipment is junk, used professional-grade equipment doesn't cost much more but does ten times as much.

When it was my money, I bought a used Snap-On carbon-pile clamp-ammeter job. Shops all over the country were unloading these wonderful units in favor of hand-held "conductance" junk that won't test alternators or starters, and may not even do voltage-drop testing.

Far as I'm concerned, the shops went backwards in their ability to locate starting/charging/storage team testing. But there it was, eBay was loaded with all different brands and models of testing equipment.

It's certainly possible to diagnose starting/charging problems without one...but it takes longer and the results aren't as definitive.

 

[geartow]

When it was my money, I bought a used Snap-On carbon-pile clamp-ammeter job. Shops all over the country were unloading these wonderful units in favor of hand-held "conductance" junk that won't test alternators or starters, and may not even do voltage-drop testing.

The midtronics pbt200 & pbt300 will do alternator and starter tests.

 

[impactsocket]

Solar BA9 is a hand-held "conductance" that gives you the alternator voltage and ripple voltage for the alternator diodes.

Perhaps I need both a hand-held "conductance" battery analyzer and a carbon pile battery tester.

 

[sberry]

Had the oldcarbon pile tester my thought is you are just dead shorting a battery. I have a toaster one also but it is no better that the carbon pile tester.

Well yes. But regardless of what one tests it with if its dead its dead. I had lawn mower battery the other day that didnt seem to crank right. Put it against an identical one, it tested 2x, no mystery. We tossed it on the charger, came back, pulled on it again to make sure it was junk and out it went, no guessing.

 

[Schurkey]

The midtronics pbt200 & pbt300 will do alternator and starter tests.

Solar BA9 is a hand-held "conductance" that gives you the alternator voltage and ripple voltage for the alternator diodes.

None of those test alternator AMPERAGE output, nor do they measure starter AMPERAGE draw. They don't measure parasitic drain from the battery. They are not amperage testers. They're verifying voltage only. They're compact, low-priced consumer-grade junk that probably do an adequate job of testing batteries, but leave you to guess about the rest of the vehicle's starting/charging system.

Perhaps I need both a hand-held "conductance" battery analyzer and a carbon pile battery tester.

If you spring for a proper carbon-pile and amp-clamp battery tester, you wouldn't need the conductance analyzer.

 

[sberry]

I only have one, not sure more testing would help if it's broke? What do I care if it's a diode or winding or even amp draw on a start, getting a new one.

 

[Schurkey]

If the battery failure was caused by chronic undercharging, or by chronic excessive starter draw, or chronic excessive parasitic drain, the new battery will soon be as failed as the old one.

It's pointless to test one part of the starting/charging power team and then decide that you've found "The" problem. Multiple failures are common.

 

[CJM8515]

We use the midtronics EXP1000 tester at work. I use it literally all day long since I run a service truck for AAA calls. Its accurate to a degree, unless you totally drain the battery down. Then it says its bad and its really not. Usually says you have a bad cell in that situation like 25% of the time. It can however be totally fooled IF you check the battery while its being charged we found out.

truthfully the older PB300 midtronics tester is fine and works good.

 

[impactsocket]

What is a good budget 500 amp or higher amp carbon pile load tester?

The HF Cen-Tech carbon pile load tester for $52.99 has some bad reviews.

 

[impactsocket]

Can any one comment on the Auto Meter SB-300 Intelligent Handheld Battery Tester for $295.18?

Why is Auto Meter so expensive?

 

[Danglerb]

I bought a Solar BA5 for about $35 from Amazon warehouse deals. Its the stripped down to basics battery only tester, good/bad charge and CCA. It generally does what I want, and its very handy to be able to test batteries with less than a full charge.

Stuff like this will continue to get cheaper and cheaper, so unless you are a battery replacing shop find someplace else to spend your money.

I jumped on the BA5 since it was a "deal" in hindsight it would be nice to have the BA7 track and hold functions on startup, but at the time I wasn't sure I would like the meter, and it was the only one cheap via AWD.

Double hindsight, still not sure I would spend triple what I did for a couple more features, this tests batteries fine combined with a DMM.

 

[sberry]

What is a good budget 500 amp or higher amp carbon pile load tester?

The HF Cen-Tech carbon pile load tester for $52.99 has some bad reviews.

I havnt read the reviews, I spose there could be an issue, it's cheap but mine is perfect. I have a clamp on meter, we tested it. I have it a long time now, well over 10 years. Paid the same then.

 

[bob15]

Something as simple as this has worked for me for many, many years:

Associated:

 

[kblee27]

I have Solar BA9 and 2 Midtronics PBT300.

Solar reading will give you different numbers, if you use it to test the same battery, multiple times.
Midtronics readings will remain rock solid, the same, most of the time.

I won't use the Solar, when I have the Midtronics handy.

Solar BA9 display also goes blank, when the charging system voltage go above 14V.
So you can't really check a charging system.
It's a flaw which I don't think they have fixed.

 

[LumpyMusic]

I have a Solar tester and honestly, it's only good if you know what kind of battery you're testing and what the CCA is supposed to be. It's been my experience that many OEM batteries don't list their CCA number because selling a battery with more CCAs isn't a motivating factor...

Really? I've never seen a battery that does not state it's type and CCA printed on the top/side. I just looked at our OEM Mopar in a 2012 Ram, the newest OEM we have. It's printed with type, CCA/CA/RC etc.


Sgt Lumpy

 

[John in OH]

The HF tester is even better,, ha, cost 50 instead of 100.

Is this the HF tester you are referring to:

500 Amp Carbon Pile Load Tester Cen-Tech - Item#91129 for $53 ??

 

[1oldtimer]

I've used both, but I always end up using the trusty Vat 40. I have a few that I've picked up at swapmeets for under $50 each......can't beat them for overall use (battery tester, charging tester and draw checker).

 

[Schurkey]

The Sun VAT-40 was the "Industry Standard" for maybe 20 years. It's what I grew-up with.

I'm not saying I'd trade my Snappy for a VAT-40, but it'd be hard to go wrong with the '40.

Thanks for the photo. I'd forgotten that the '40 would do alternator full-fielding.

One of the tricks I was taught with the VAT-40 was to take a length of primary wire--12 or 14 gauge, doesn't really matter. Coil it up into ten loops, nice and neat--and big enough to get the amperage probe into. Allow several inches of wire sticking out each end to attach alligator clips to. Tyrap the loops into a bundle. Now the VAT-40's amperage probe is 10 times as sensitive to small amperage loads--like the parasitic drain on a battery when the ignition switch is turned "Off". You have to mentally move the decimal point in your head when reading the meter--what shows up as a 2-amp drain, for example, is actually a 0.2 amp drain--but that's below the resolution of the meter. In effect, you're fooling the meter into showing 10x the actual results for the purpose of clarity.

I'd forgotten all about that. I'll have to make a ten-loop jumper wire for my Snappy tomorrow.

 

[zakmartin]

Really? I've never seen a battery that does not state it's type and CCA printed on the top/side. I just looked at our OEM Mopar in a 2012 Ram, the newest OEM we have. It's printed with type, CCA/CA/RC etc.


Sgt Lumpy

It's true. There's an OEM 350Z battery sitting on my garage floor right now and all it says on it is "NISSAN" and a manufacturing date.

 

[CJM8515]

OEM batteries generally dont state the ratings on them a lot of the time. They are also WAY below what the replacements will be.

 

[John in OH]

Anyone have any experience with, or comments regarding, this Solar 100 amp tester? It is currently at NAPA (p/n SOR1852) on sale for $30.

http://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/SOR1852#



Looks pretty basic, but if the OP is looking for a "budget" battery analyzer this might fit his needs. It may well be adequate to determine if a battery is junk or not which is often all I need to know.

 

[Schurkey]

The Sun VAT-40 was the "Industry Standard" for maybe 20 years. It's what I grew-up with.

I'm not saying I'd trade my Snappy for a VAT-40, but it'd be hard to go wrong with the '40.

...I'll have to make a ten-loop jumper wire for my Snappy tomorrow.

The bluish iridescent haze on the meter lens is a trick of my camera. It's not there to the naked eye, but it shows up through my camera viewfinder

 

[impactsocket]

What is the highest CCA battery that a 100 amp or 130 amp "hand held" battery load tester can handle?

I thought 100 amp or 130 amp "hand held" battery load tester can only test small auto batteries.