HF 20 Gallon Parts Washer Mods

[jsmirabal]

I was long overdue in adding a parts washer to my arsenal so I went to HF and bought the ubiquitous 20 gallon job. I originally planned on adding mineral spirits and being done with it, but my plans changed real quick once I saw the cost of mineral spirits.

After reading more about alternative parts washer solutions, I decided to stick with an aqueous solution, not only for cost's sake, but for fire safety, health and environmental reasons, as well. The problem with aqueous cleaners is that most are lye based, which is corrosive to aluminum. Luckily, Home Depot also carries one that isn't-Simple Green Pro HD. Apparently its the same formula as the Simple Green aircraft cleaner (aluminum airframe safe) but with color additive.

As I see it, one massive shortcoming with the architecture of the HF washer is that the tank holds a bunch of dirty fluid and sediment and the pump just cycles it. I researched other people's remedies to this issue and ended up with this beast.

First, I fitted the drain with a 1/4" pipe extension, ball valve and nylon hose barb. I used 3/8" vinyl tube for the drain line into the "resevoir."

The resevoir is a 5 gallon bucket placed under the tank. Actually, it's a bucket within a bucket. The white top bucket houses the pump and has numerous small holes drilled in it's bottom. The white bucket is placed in a clear bucket.

The vinyl tubing drain line runs straight through a hole in bottom of the white bucket and empties into the lower clear bucket. This allows liquid to percolate up into the white bucket where the pump is, while trapping the sediment in the lower clear bucket.

The pump then pumps fluid up to the remote oil filter, again via 3/8" vinyl tubing (hose barbs are 1/2" nylon)...

...Part#15728, fits Fram oil filter PH5 equivalents...

...and then through side of the tank to the gooseneck. The gooseneck is screwed into a female 1/4" brass hose barb.

I moved the power switch to one of the legs.

I had to extend the pump electrical cord a bit so it would reach.

I also attached the parts washer to a 1/2" ply base with 2" casters for mobilty.

So far I've cleaned a few things and the set up seems to work well. There are no over-powering chemical fumes, the fluid is staying clean and it does a more than adequate job degreasing. I am using 2 1/2 gallons of cleaner and 2 gallons of water.

Hope this helps someone.
-jloc

 

[06 DIESEL]

That is a nice modification to that parts washer.

 

[WILD-BILL]

I just might have to steal that idea.

Well done sir.

 

[jsmirabal]

Thanks fellas.

Bill, steal away, brother! That's what it's all about!

 

[Cryptic1911]

hmm, pretty cool setup. Might have to do ours this way

 

[devoncoolman]

not too shabby. I used a large remote fuel filter setup off of a detriot diesel on my snap on parts washer. works very well plus the fuel filter is more effiecient and wont possibly break down.

 

[Rhyno]

Thanks for the read....

Here's my contribution.....

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=202435

 

[Tre900]

VERY great thread. I got this Parts washer with my house. Switch was broke, pump is cracked off the base but it seems to work. Going with PSC 1000 Solvent from Tractor supply.

Adding my pics here too: In the tank Klemm Fuel Furnace filter with a #40 mesh strainer.

Did a test in the utility sink..then dropped it in the tank.

I will update this will my killer Knife switch mod once completed.

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp54353%3Evq%3D3357%3E%3B%3B2%3E742%3EWSNRCG%3D39624769%3B%3A337vq0mrj

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp54397%3Evq%3D3357%3E%3B%3B2%3E742%3EWSNRCG%3D39624894%3C8337vq0mrj

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp543%3A9%3Evq%3D3357%3E%3B%3B2%3E742%3EWSNRCG%3D39624933%3B%3B337vq0mrj

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp543%3C4%3Evq%3D3357%3E%3B%3B2%3E742%3EWSNRCG%3D39624894%3C9337vq0mrj

 

[jerryd68]

I was long overdue in adding a parts washer to my arsenal so I went to HF and bought the ubiquitous 20 gallon job. I originally planned on adding mineral spirits and being done with it, but my plans changed real quick once I saw the cost of mineral spirits.

After reading more about alternative parts washer solutions, I decided to stick with an aqueous solution, not only for cost's sake, but for fire safety, health and environmental reasons, as well. The problem with aqueous cleaners is that most are lye based, which is corrosive to aluminum. Luckily, Home Depot also carries one that isn't-Simple Green Pro HD. Apparently its the same formula as the Simple Green aircraft cleaner (aluminum airframe safe) but with color additive.

As I see it, one massive shortcoming with the architecture of the HF washer is that the tank holds a bunch of dirty fluid and sediment and the pump just cycles it. I researched other people's remedies to this issue and ended up with this beast.

First, I fitted the drain with a 1/4" pipe extension, ball valve and nylon hose barb. I used 3/8" vinyl tube for the drain line into the "resevoir."

The resevoir is a 5 gallon bucket placed under the tank. Actually, it's a bucket within a bucket. The white top bucket houses the pump and has numerous small holes drilled in it's bottom. The white bucket is placed in a clear bucket.

The vinyl tubing drain line runs straight through a hole in bottom of the white bucket and empties into the lower clear bucket. This allows liquid to percolate up into the white bucket where the pump is, while trapping the sediment in the lower clear bucket.

The pump then pumps fluid up to the remote oil filter, again via 3/8" vinyl tubing (hose barbs are 1/2" nylon)...

...Part#15728, fits Fram oil filter PH5 equivalents...

...and then through side of the tank to the gooseneck. The gooseneck is screwed into a female 1/4" brass hose barb.

I moved the power switch to one of the legs.

I had to extend the pump electrical cord a bit so it would reach.

I also attached the parts washer to a 1/2" ply base with 2" casters for mobilty.

So far I've cleaned a few things and the set up seems to work well. There are no over-powering chemical fumes, the fluid is staying clean and it does a more than adequate job degreasing. I am using 2 1/2 gallons of cleaner and 2 gallons of water.

Hope this helps someone.
-jloc

I did the same thing when I priced Mineral Spirits, then I started calling around and found that one of our local oil suppliers carries it at the pump just like gas or diesel, runs about 5.00 a gallon

 

[Jagmandave]

Good job, I especially like the sediment trap, easy to clean up when it gets a little too dirty too....well done.

I had my HF tank for a couple of years and leaving the water based liquid in it took all the paint off the inside of the tank. I decided to make my own "Safety Clean" type tank. I welded a thin piece of steel in a circle similar to the way they do it, added a couple of thumbscrews, and bought a 35 gallon barrel of safety clean solvent. I hung the pump on the inside edge of the barrel and dropped the intake tube till it was about 6" off the bottom.

I've had it for over 20 years now and it still works perfectly.

 

[hoffman912]

nice call on the casters. i have been eying this one at tractor supply mainly because it had casters, but hated the $50 increase in price. http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/jobsmartreg;-portable-parts-washer-20-gal

 

[kendogg]

So, couple months in - how is the Simple Green HD fluid doing? Can it be heated safely as well? I'm considering building a parts washer from a sideways 55 gallon drum, mostly because I occasionally want to have the ability to soak long items (oil pans, valve covers, etc., won't fit in the HF one). I figured if I had it professionally cut in half long ways, it would have straight edges. Then I could put a rubber seal on both cut edges all the way around for a pretty good seal, and a simple hinge on the backside. Thoughts??


Can mineral spirits be safely heated as well, or no??

 

[arvidj]

I'll resurrect this thread to ask "Where can I get a clear 5 gallon bucket?".

I have spent several hours Goggling to find a source and have not come up with a single clue on where to beg, borrow, steal or buy a clear 5 gallon bucket. Orange, green, blue, white ... yes. Transparent, no.

Arvid

 

[cclfn]

I'll resurrect this thread to ask "Where can I get a clear 5 gallon bucket?".

I have spent several hours Goggling to find a source and have not come up with a single clue on where to beg, borrow, steal or buy a clear 5 gallon bucket. Orange, green, blue, white ... yes. Transparent, no.

Arvid

How about something like this?

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/s...food-and-water/5-gallon-water-jug-with-spigot

They also have transparent 22 quart liquid containers but they are big bucks.

 

[J Banning]

I found transparent (not totally clear) ones at Lowes in the paint department.

 

[DoyleDee]

I have two from Lowes-- as said, semi clear/white.

 

[Danglerb]

clear bucket, aka bottom of a plastic 5 gallon water jug.

 

[928'er]

I had my HF tank for a couple of years and leaving the water based liquid in it took all the paint off the inside of the tank.

Same thing happened to me with a Grizzly brand washer. I used a water based cleaner because I thought it would be gentler and more environmentally friendly.

The paint on the inside of the tank came off in sheets - clogged everything up.

 

[FunkyfullWidth]

Same thing happened to me with a Grizzly brand washer. I used a water based cleaner because I thought it would be gentler and more environmentally friendly.

The paint on the inside of the tank came off in sheets - clogged everything up.

This is why I switched to something different. The water gave my tank a layer of surface rust. With the op's set up it shouldn't be as much of a problem as it drains into the bucket. I have one tank with safety kleen in it and another with diesel. I just keep a stock of dishwashing gloves on hand.

On a side note. I hate the size of the 20 gal washers, just big enough to get most things in it, but not be able to maneuver them around without splashing cleaner everywhere. a foot wider and a two feet longer would be the boss.

 

[arvidj]

Thanks to those that suggested Lowes for the translucent pails. Regretfully the ones I saw were very opaque. The water jug looks to be the 'clearest'.

 

[Jagmandave]

Same thing happened to me with a Grizzly brand washer. I used a water based cleaner because I thought it would be gentler and more environmentally friendly.

The paint on the inside of the tank came off in sheets - clogged everything up.

Yep, mine did exactly the same thing, above the liquid level the paint is still firmly attached.....even today, 25 years later!

I use Safety Kleen solvent since that happened.

 

[kars85]

First, I fitted the drain with a 1/4" pipe extension, ball valve and nylon hose barb. I used 3/8" vinyl tube for the drain line into the "resevoir."

-jloc

Thanks for the pics jsmirabal - I'm almost finished, but at a standstill at the moment at how to go about the drain.

The drain from the HF unit I got has 9/16" fine thread, so I'm trying to figure out how to get a 3" or 4" pipe extension to fit a ball valve on there. Went to Ace Hardware and we thought drilling and tapping for 3/8" NPT would be the best route to go. It was mentioned that you put a 1/4" pipe on there, though? Wasn't that too small?

What's the communities thoughts on the drill/tap route? I don't have a 3/8 NPT tap, and Ace didn't either. So, I'm stuck going to the local machine supply store to get one. But, I also thought that if I"m there, is it possible to get them to thread a 9/16" pipe?

I'm a hack as far as being mechanically inclined, I know just enough to be dangerous, so any help on getting the 3 or 4 inch extension on there with the least amount of headache would be appreciated!

 

[WILD-BILL]

I drilled and tapped mine and I still wasn't happy with it.

I then plugged that and went with a sink drain. Much better.

 

[owenst7]

Thanks for the pics jsmirabal - I'm almost finished, but at a standstill at the moment at how to go about the drain.

The drain from the HF unit I got has 9/16" fine thread, so I'm trying to figure out how to get a 3" or 4" pipe extension to fit a ball valve on there. Went to Ace Hardware and we thought drilling and tapping for 3/8" NPT would be the best route to go. It was mentioned that you put a 1/4" pipe on there, though? Wasn't that too small?

What's the communities thoughts on the drill/tap route? I don't have a 3/8 NPT tap, and Ace didn't either. So, I'm stuck going to the local machine supply store to get one. But, I also thought that if I"m there, is it possible to get them to thread a 9/16" pipe?

I'm a hack as far as being mechanically inclined, I know just enough to be dangerous, so any help on getting the 3 or 4 inch extension on there with the least amount of headache would be appreciated!

http://m.harborfreight.com/6-piece-pipe-tap-die-set-91395.html?utm_referrer=direct/not provided

I threaded a 3/8" npt gas rated ball valve in to the drain bung on mine when I bought it. Has had diesel in it for all 6 years I have owned it and does not leak. I drain it through a spin on filter occasionally and store it in buckets while I scrape the crud out of the tank. I've only cleaned it a few times. Perhaps using petroleum based solvent allows it to separate easier since dirt is water soluble.

 

[sberry]

I wonder why the people that build and invent it don't do this?

 

[kars85]

I tapped for 3/8 npt and was done with it. If I don't like it I will put a sink drain in, but don't see the immediate benefit?

Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk

 

[arvidj]

What's the communities thoughts on the drill/tap route? I don't have a 3/8 NPT tap, and Ace didn't either. So, I'm stuck going to the local machine supply store to get one.

My solution was ... http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-pipe-tap-die-set-91395.html ... and a drill bit.

Though I have to admit the sink drain sounds good if I ever have problems with the current setup.

 

[Keyblazer]

Any suggestions on what I could repaint or seal the inside of mine with to prevent rust?

 

[Rhyno]

Any suggestions on what I could repaint or seal the inside of mine with to prevent rust?

My advice for success is to have the best prep and curing time.

I'm sure that others will follow with "XXXX will dissolve the paint." or "water based solvent you need oil based paint."

With either one, having the best "prep and cure" will lead to more success.

Personally, I would't paint the inside. I use a petroleum base solvent, and rust doesn't bother me.

I would "Rustoleum" rattle can the outside.

Good Luck, and Post Pics!!

.

.

 

[Keyblazer]

Will do...

This is how the inside looks atm.




This washer is about 12 years old, and I have not used it for 10 years. I have a Subaru motor build on and need to wash/degrease parts.

Bought this Filtration base which arrived today for $20...




And this cheap $25 adjustable output 3000L/hr pump.


I am leaning toward using the Tractor supply fluid but am concerned about flammability as there is a restoration in my future with cutting/grinding/welding.

 

[Keyblazer]

Got a few mods done and went a slightly different was than the OP.
Hope its ok to share here.

I wanted the unit on wheels and also the lower shelf to be open and more usable...
Before...



So, I took the shelf out(8 bolts), and flipped it upside down, and rebolted it like this...



4x locking Casters from HF rated at 130lb each will do.



Just used 3 bolts thru the bottom of the leg.



Filter unit with Walmart special supertech filter($2.30).
Says 95% efficiency, which is fine I think for this.

 

[Keyblazer]

Next I cut a plate from scrap to fill the hole left by the original pump/filter box.




Bolted it in place, and added the original flex spout with a valve and adapter I had already... hope it will be able to handle the fluid.



Bolted the filter unit and plumbed it. I may need to move it later.



So the plan is to use a 5 gallon pail of TS PSC2000, sitting on the lower shelf. The pump will go in the pail, and the original drain will drop back into it...

 

[michjacket]

Awesome ideas! I picked up one of these washers for $30, already on casters. The guy wanted $75 for it, but when he went to demo it the pump didn't work. While we were standing there I looked up the price of a new pump, showed him and offered him $30 and he took it. Got home disassembled the pump, cleaned out the sludge and it works fine. One thing I hated was the lid - as built it does not open far enough. At my height I was always ducking down to see what I am doing. I modified my hinge so it now opens straight up. I will take some pics tonight for anyone who wants to take it on.

 

[michjacket]

Actually just remembered I had before and after pics of my hinge mods on my phone.

First pic is the original, restricted opening lid, which was right in my line of sight. Second is after the modifications.

 

[owenst7]

Actually just remembered I had before and after pics of my hinge mods on my phone.

First pic is the original, restricted opening lid, which was right in my line of sight. Second is after the modifications.

Just don't put anything flammable in there. The lid should have a plastic "fuse" that causes it to drop the lid shut if there's a fire. At least mine does that I bought from HF years ago.

 

[owenst7]

Next I cut a plate from scrap to fill the hole left by the original pump/filter box.




Bolted it in place, and added the original flex spout with a valve and adapter I had already... hope it will be able to handle the fluid.



Bolted the filter unit and plumbed it. I may need to move it later.



So the plan is to use a 5 gallon pail of TS PSC2000, sitting on the lower shelf. The pump will go in the pail, and the original drain will drop back into it...

I like this idea a lot. Keep us updated on how the pump works out with the filter and everything. I've been thinking about building a new machine with a holding tank and drain because mine with the stock setup splashes solvent around and sometimes I sort of "lose" parts in the ~10 gal of solvent in the bottom. I was thinking of using a fiber cloth over the drain to filter out the debris, kind of like the new bacteria/bio solvent machines.

 

[michjacket]

Just don't put anything flammable in there. The lid should have a plastic "fuse" that causes it to drop the lid shut if there's a fire. At least mine does that I bought from HF years ago.

That would be a nice feature to have but I guess mine is not new enough to have that feature. I disassembled the hinge when I modified it and don't recall any plastic parts in it. My washer has mineral spirits in it. I've never taken a flame to MS so I do not know how flammable they are. I don't smoke and since I am working by myself I won't have someone making sparks by me. Thanks for the heads up!

 

[wbrian63]

I tried the filter thing on my HF parts washer. I'm using Kerosene.

Maybe it's just the stuff I'm cleaning (lots of car parts that have a mix of oil, grease and caked dirt) but it clogged up in short order and flow went to near zero. Ended up removing it.

I'm thinking a diesel fuel filter might allow more ultra-fine particulate through?

This the pump I used (Little Giant Model 518550 PE-2YSA)

Frame to hold the pump in the bucket:

Filter installed (please ignore the horrible weld on the fitting)

I added a "T" to the outlet so I can swap between the flexible spout and a flow-thru brush.

I'm going on 3 years with this setup and the fluid, while black, still does a fine job of cutting grime.

Flow is still acceptable, the one limitation being the softness of the hose feeding the flow-through brush - if I turn the flow down too low, the weight of the hose kinks at the attachment point on the brush and cuts off. Higher volume - no problem, but then I get splashing. I just try to support the hose with the way I grip the brush for better results.

As for the drain - I cut off whatever was there and welded on a threaded fitting I got from McMaster-Carr for (I think) 3/4" pipe:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#tank-fittings/=12hs2w2

Put a ball valve below - now I can retain fluid in the washer basin if I need to soak something.

One modification I'd like to make is for a "drain board" on the side where I can move cleaned parts and allow them to dry a bit and still capture the fluid back into the tank. I can hang something off the lip of the basin, but then the lid won't close properly. Needs to be removable to reduce footprint - space is always at a premium.

 

[owenst7]

I tried the filter thing on my HF parts washer. I'm using Kerosene.

Maybe it's just the stuff I'm cleaning (lots of car parts that have a mix of oil, grease and caked dirt) but it clogged up in short order and flow went to near zero. Ended up removing it.

I'm thinking a diesel fuel filter might allow more ultra-fine particulate through?

This the pump I used (Little Giant Model 518550 PE-2YSA)

Frame to hold the pump in the bucket:

Filter installed (please ignore the horrible weld on the fitting)

I added a "T" to the outlet so I can swap between the flexible spout and a flow-thru brush.

I'm going on 3 years with this setup and the fluid, while black, still does a fine job of cutting grime.

Flow is still acceptable, the one limitation being the softness of the hose feeding the flow-through brush - if I turn the flow down too low, the weight of the hose kinks at the attachment point on the brush and cuts off. Higher volume - no problem, but then I get splashing. I just try to support the hose with the way I grip the brush for better results.

As for the drain - I cut off whatever was there and welded on a threaded fitting I got from McMaster-Carr for (I think) 3/4" pipe:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#tank-fittings/=12hs2w2

Put a ball valve below - now I can retain fluid in the washer basin if I need to soak something.

Do you think there would be any benefit from increasing the volume of the sump tank? I've been considering doing pretty much what you have but with a 16 gal gear oil drum that I have, but I've been having trouble finding a cheap lid for the drum. 5 gal would be a lot easier to strain or dispose of since I don't use mine a ton anymore.

 

[Keyblazer]

Good info.
Looks like we are all pretty much on the same page.

I thought about it and liked the idea of having the solvent drain back into the bucket below the unit when not in use.
I also was thinking with a little extra modding I could use the same tank to run "Rust Removal" fluid, just by swapping buckets and the drain hose, when I need to circulate it over a part.

The stock tank drain is smaller than I would like, but maybe it will work, with the slower return allowing a pool of solvent to dip into... tests will prove it I guess.