Bead roller to create lip on edge

[Whiskeymike]

Never used a bead roller before and I'm trying to figure out if it's the right tool for the job. I'm trying to put a 90 degree lip that is 1/8"-1/4"- or 1/2" deep on the outside edge of a 2' circle of 16 gauge. Depth really depends on the radius of the bend. If it's tight then 1/8" is fine. If it's soft, I'd probably need a 1/2".

Is it the right tool? Is it a particular die that would make a lip on the edge?

 

[Guster]

If the edge is curved, if the profile of the lip is not a straightforward bend/curve or if the edge is longer than can fit in a brake then a beadroller is one of the better tools for the job. A metalworker/scotchman can do all kind of profiles with custom dies but has clearance issues with some setups and can handle thicker material. Pan brake/folder can also be set up to roll an edge but only for a straight sections. Plannishing hammer can do thin material with limited profile depths and so can an english wheel with the right wheels. A simple die made for a hydraulic press will do in a pinch and can manage thicker material but is tedious for doing long edges.

 

[csp]

A tipping die is what would be used in a bead roller.

 

[kerrynzl]

You'll need to shrink the flange or it'll be wavy.

The best way is to make a former to the same radius from steel [ it only needs to be a segment]
Clamp the item to the former and tap it around with a soft hammer.

A soft hammer will "thicken" the material whereas a hard hammer will thin and stretch the material

 

[gahrajmahal]

If you are making one use a hammer die. Cut a 2 ft. Round disc of hard wood. double stick tape or glue your 16 ga. to it. For a 1/8" lip you will have very little shrinking to do. Your excuse to buy a nice body hammer.

 

[jimgood]

If you are making one use a hammer die. Cut a 2 ft. Round disc of hard wood. double stick tape or glue your 16 ga. to it. For a 1/8" lip you will have very little shrinking to do. Your excuse to buy a nice body hammer.

This is what I would do. The metal has to shrink; very little at the radius of the bend and a lot at the outer edge. It will do this naturally.

I swear I have seen a YT vid of Ron Covell doing exactly what you want but I can't find it. I did find the one below. It's not exactly what you want but it demonstrates what happens to the edge of the metal as you form the flange and how you get rid of the wrinkles where the metal needs to shrink. In the vid, the guy is shrinking by working the hammer on the inside of the flange (about 5 minutes in). This is called tuck shrinking. You would be doing the same thing over the edge of the wood but from the outside of the flange. You just have to be careful not to smash the edge and stretch it out again once it's folded over. It think that's why the soft wood and hammer.

Edit: Here's another short one:

 

[astroracer]

Using a tipping die to make a flange around some tunnels I built for the floor of my Astro Van.

Very little distortion on straight sections.

A little warbling as we tipped this compound curve but still not real bad.

This was quickly straightened out with a body hammer and some off dolly work.

It fit very well after a couple minutes of "sweetening".

If you go slow and sneak up on the full tip I think you can do it with very little distortion.
Mark

 

[gungatim]

old school way is to take a piece of 1/4" flat stock and cut a notch in it the depth you want. use it by hand to slowly bend the lip a tiny bit at a time until you are done. I tried it and it's not that hard but I never got perfect at it. just search for some hand metal forming videos/posts on some of the metalworking forums and you'll see guys show how to do it. pretty simple process, I think the guys on the HAMB have posts on how to do wire edges on fenders that way...supposedly if you are careful and go slow there is not much shrinking to be done.

but a tipping die made from a large washer and a roller skate wheel mounted on a bead roller I have seen done as well.

 

[astroracer]

Another way to approach this is to make a hammer form. Cut a circle out of plywood and clamp your sheet to it. Work the edge down over the plywood with nylon or wood hammer (to keep from stretching the material) until you get it rolled over.
Similar to this method I use for making wheel tubs for model cars. You will be working in the flat, as opposed to mine in the round but the principle is the same.

Work the edge over slowly. This picture shows a small brass hammer I use to planish the edge. All of the forming work is done with a small nylon hammer I made for this job.

The nylon hammer doesn't stretch the aluminum.

A little bit of sanding and it all levels out.

Mark

 

[Whiskeymike]

Thanks. I'm trying to make a sign similar in structure to this...

Thanks to Doubleup for the idea and picture.

But instead of the seam of the flat disc and the wrap around coming together at that edge, I thought it would be nicer if there was a flange to either go around the wrap, or inside it. I'm thinking it could be cleaner. But I'm am wondering if I should flange the disc or the wrap.

 

[rsanter]

If it was me I would either use the hammer form method or just kind of copy what they did by welding the hoop to the round, however you could silver solder the two together and when sanded out a bit it would look like it was one piece

Bob