Best way to shoot angle screws or nails?

[weatherby460]

I need to install a bunch of 2x4's flush mounted in a pole shed going between the poles. (I think its called toenailing) What is the best way to do this? I am guessing a nail gun would be the fastest, but I have never used one before so I will have to purchase one. If I use screws, I almost will need to predrill holes so the wood doesn't split.

Please advise me what I should be purchasing for a nail gun if that is the best option and also what type of nails.

Thanks

 

[PeterT]

One option would be to buy a bunch of these,, if you shop around they are about .50/ea

 

[JBradley500]

I was going to make a joke about shooing them in with your .460 (because I want one) but I'm not going to! Good luck in your search.

 

[gdocktor3]

Well, do you have a compressor to power the nail gun? Do you do stuff like this often? I bought a Bostitch framing gun from a pawn shop for about $40 a few years ago and used it commercially for a long time. You can go that route, buy new, or rent one from Home Depot. You would be crazy drilling and screwing them. You can probably rent a Paslode nail gun which is battery powered or runs on tiny fuel cells, but they're really expensive to buy and for professionals. Buy whatever you can afford. Dewalt, Ridgid, Bostitch, Porter Cable, Senco, Makita and even Husky make decent nail guns for the DIYer. Generally want to use a 3" long 8d or 10d nail.

Instead of me explaining everything, just read this http://www.framingnailerhub.com/how-to-toenail-with-framing-nailer/

 

[zendriver]

I have "toe-nailed" 2x4's with screws, successfully, with out pre-drilling.

They just have to be fairly long, so you can start higher up the board.

They were 3" construction screws. Easier to Start them at about 90 degrees, then angle them down and drive the rest of the way in.

 

[Thumper68]

For an inexperienced guy toe nailing with a nail gun you are very likely to have issues. If they are new 2x4's screwing them in with a construction screws should not require pre drilling.

I buy the torx drive in the big bucket from Menards and have no issues with splitting, as long as the wood is new, old wood you are going to split either way.

 

[gdocktor3]

For an inexperienced guy toe nailing with a nail gun you are very likely to have issues. If they are new 2x4's screwing them in with a construction screws should not require pre drilling.

I buy the torx drive in the big bucket from Menards and have no issues with splitting, as long as the wood is new, old wood you are going to split either way.

To touch on this, square drive screws are the way to go. Its very difficult to strip a square drive.

 

[manwithtools]

Pre-drilling is easy and fast if you get in a rhythm. Good excuse to buy a cordless drill / impact combo. Get the torx drive construction screws from the big box store in the 5 lb box and off to the races.

You may need to devise a way to hold the 2x4's flush to the face of the posts while you "toe screw" them in place. It could be as simple as a scrap screwed to the 2x4 to prevent it from pulling inward beyond the face of the posts. This is an issue wither using screws or nails. I prefer the screws because there is more control of the process.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

To touch on this, square drive screws are the way to go. Its very difficult to strip a square drive.

Robertson, not square drive. Don't disrespect our beloved canadian invention lol. I agree though, toe nailing with construction screws is easy with an impact driver, and doesn't need to be pre drilled.

 

[DekeT]

Fast? If you had started at the time of posting you would be done by now.

 

[weatherby460]

The joist hanger is a good idea...but not gonna work for my application because of how it will be mounted.

I have all the stuff for screwing...but not nailing. I just hope I can get the right angle when I'm screwing.

 

[drink]

I need to install a bunch of 2x4's flush mounted in a pole shed going between the poles. (I think its called toenailing) What is the best way to do this? I am guessing a nail gun would be the fastest, but I have never used one before so I will have to purchase one. If I use screws, I almost will need to predrill holes so the wood doesn't split.

Please advise me what I should be purchasing for a nail gun if that is the best option and also what type of nails.

Thanks

Will you post some pictures of the pole shed and how you plan to install the 2 x 4's in it? Knowing the application and purpose of installing the lumber is a must. I am confused about flush mounting them. What exactly do you mean? What grade of lumber are you using and what is it supporting?

 

[Thumper68]

To touch on this, square drive screws are the way to go. Its very difficult to strip a square drive.

I prefer the torx to the Robertson, with the torx if you get the angle a bit off it still drives well with a Robertson it will cam out and strip the head.

 

[drink]

The joist hanger is a good idea...but not gonna work for my application because of how it will be mounted.

I have all the stuff for screwing...but not nailing. I just hope I can get the right angle when I'm screwing.

Are you trying to enclose the shed with some siding? Do you want to do something similar to what is in the picture or does your shed already have similar framing?

http://www.polebarn.com/static/images/mesre2.jpg

 

[manwithtools]

I prefer the torx to the Robertson, with the torx if you get the angle a bit off it still drives well with a Robertson it will cam out and strip the head.

 

[drink]

What type of material are your poles? Are they pressure treated? Will you be nailing into the poles? Is the floor dirt or concrete? Will you be nailing in concrete? What'cha doin?

Oh well, maybe you should contact these people and they should be able to help you.

http://wickbuildings.com/

http://www.schleybuildings.com/

http://clearybuilding.com/

 

[weatherby460]

I will post a picture soon as I get home...it will make a lot more sense then.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Depending on how many I had to do and high up I'm going, would make the difference between grabbing the framing nailer or impact driver.

 

[shoot summ]

For screws get a drive guide, they work great...

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-6-in-Drive-Guide-with-Bit-Tip-DWA2099/204785810

 

[Deej-79]

I prefer the torx to the Robertson, with the torx if you get the angle a bit off it still drives well with a Robertson it will cam out and strip the head.

I also find the torx bits last longer than the square drive

 

[weatherby460]

Here is what I am trying to do. I want it on the inside to maximize interior room. This it to hang an interior metal for walls.

 

[510ebl]

Look into Kreg kits to predrill holes for robertson (SP?) drive screws.

http://www.rockler.com/kreg-jig-hd-heavy-duty-pocket-hole-system

 

[CNGsaves]

Here is what I am trying to do. I want it on the inside to maximize interior room. This it to hang an interior metal for walls.

What is GOAL again ??

Your 2x4's going flat against what you already have ??? Are you adding more insulation ?? Surely you are moving out all the electrical boxes ??

 

[weatherby460]

I am hanging 3'x12' metal panels vertically. Yes I will need to more the electrical boxes when I install each panel...I just se a 2x4 in place for simulation.

 

[weatherby460]

ttt......where can I buy that angle screw thing

 

[billp603]

Just clamp it on, and use the screws with flanged head and don't overdrive them

Pocket Hole Jig

 

[CNGsaves]

What about vapor barrier ???

You going to use plastic ??

 

[petee_c]

I've found that screwing with an impact driver and Robertson 3" no8 screws was easier to do then with a pneumatic framing hammer. I have a cheaper Campbell hausfeld nailer, and it never got the nails flush when toe nailing.


Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk

 

[weatherby460]

yes...after I get the horizontal nailers in, then I will install the plastic across everything

 

[logical]

Why aren't you nailing through the existing vertical studs into the endgrain of the horizontal nailers you are adding? You can just offset the next one over up or down the width of the board so you always have a clear straight shot at it.

-l_l-l_l-

 

[signcrafter]

Ok this really isn't as complicated as some are making it. You don't need pocket holes to do this. Nails or screws will work just fine toe nailed. If it was me I would nail just because it's faster and I have the nail gun already. But screwing is fine if you don't want to buy a nail gun.

Are you putting these ever 24" or so all the way up the posts? If so start on the bottom and install your first board. Then cut two 2x4s that length that you want to space your boards. On one end screw a piece of plywood scrap to each side of the 2x4. Picture a "Y". The plywood will go over the board you ust nailed on and hole your spacer in place. Now set the next board on top of your spacer boards and screw or nail in place. The spacers will prevent the toe nailing(or screwing) from pulling the board and moving it. Then move up until all the supports are toe nailed in. Repeat for all the bays between the posts.

Remember these are just for bracing to attach your metal panels. You don't want them to be an inch off but they also don't have to be perfect. You should see how some of the "pros" put in bracing.

 

[buening]

Just be sure to zip the screws down far enough so the heads are flush with the 2x4, so that your steel sheeting will sit flush. The Kreg pocket jig is available at Lowes and Menards, but I think they are made for Kreg fasteners (have a large diameter head IIRC). You can predrill the 2x4 on the workbench and even start the screws on the workbench, but if you have a lot just be aware it will take more time. Predrilling will minimize splitting.

Just be aware that toenailing/screwing often times will **** the board in the direction of the angle, so if you want the 2x4 flush with other 2x4s you may want to fully predrill both boards or clamp them in place.

I too prefer the yellow cad plated torx bit construction screws, and would recommend 3" or 4" long screws, depending on the angle you use. Obviously watch out for the electrical nearby

 

[OhioGuy]

I always use the bit to drill a sort of pilot hole at the angle I want to go before drilling, try it. I find it works well for me.