Which torque wrench to buy

[Sugarfryz]

In the market for a torque wrench, I am currently able to get one half of from snap on through school. So I'm pretty set on getting a snap on one. I need to know which is better a "split beam" main advantage as far as I know of is you don't have to set it back down to zero after using it. Or should I go for a micrometer dial type torque wrench. Will post links to which ones I am talking about. Concerned about accuracy, how long it will be accurate, and reliability in general.

Split beam
https://store.snapon.com/US-Reading...d-Ratchet-40-250-ft-lb-1-2-drive-P642560.aspx

Micrometer dial type (click type)
https://store.snapon.com/US-Torque-...orque-Wrench-50-ndash-250-ft-lb--P874542.aspx

 

[DrkMtnDew]

Personally I started with micrometer and switched to split beam because 1) Its accurate enough for me 2) faster to set. got annoyed always setting a micrometer style 3) holds calibration better and its more forgiving if its roughed up 4) don't need to set to zero, although I do anyway 5) you can always get something later on if you do need absolute accuracy.

Mine is the Snap On. really like all its features including the flex head. can't go wrong with it.

 

[rlitman]

The split beam has a better regard with respect to maintaining accuracy in a drawer (since it returns to zero torque every time you put it down).
This is what I primarily use, for just this reason.

Note that if buying at retail, you'll save a bundle by buying the Precision Instruments version of that wrench (they're the OEM):
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKE65M/?tag=atomicindus08-20
You pay a LOT for the SnapOn label.

Micrometer torque wrenches are sometimes available in higher precision than split beam, and if this extreme precision is required, AND kept regularly calibrated (which is why the split beam says it is not for aviation use), it can satisfy exacting requirements that may be necessary for aviation or other special uses where this might be needed.

 

[Adam.C]

How will you measure angles? More and more manufacturers are specifying angles on all sorts of parts of cars, not just head bolts.

The answer to so many of these question on this board should be, what do you need, not what we personally recommend. If you don't know what you need, ask.

If you intend to work on passenger cars, you need a torque wrench that measures angles, or a plan to accomplish this requirement.

 

[one9gt]

Note that if buying at retail, you'll save a bundle by buying the Precision Instruments version of that wrench (they're the OEM):
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKE65M/?tag=atomicindus08-20
You pay a LOT for the SnapOn label.

I thought CDI made snap-on torque wrenches?!

 

[Banshee365]

Half off is probably still more than CDI or PI...

 

[vga]

Proto torque wrenches have served me well for many years.

 

[Adam.C]

Half off is probably still more than CDI or PI...

The Snap On is $380/2 =$190.
The PI is $173 + $11 shipping = $184.

BTW, CDI is not the OEM for Snap On torque wrenches. Snap On owns CDI. Like they own Williams, Bahco, etc.

 

[DemoFly]

If you're a professional you're really going to need a torque and angle torque wrench.

 

[country83]

The Snap On is $380/2 =$190.
The PI is $173 + $11 shipping = $184.

BTW, CDI is not the OEM for Snap On torque wrenches. Snap On owns CDI. Like they own Williams, Bahco, etc.

Huh? CDI makes SO's torque wrenches, and yes, SO owns CDI.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

If you're a professional you're really going to need a torque and angle torque wrench.

You need a torque wrench... but you don't need an angle torque wrench. TTY hardware can be torque using dial adapters that tell you angle. Been using this for 20+ years:

Granted, something like a techangle is more convenient because its all in one package. Not that I recommend it, but when I was younger I did my W124 HG with 90* + 90* tightening procedure and just used a breaker and eyeballed it. Car ran for 200k+ miles.

 

[crewchief888]

You need a torque wrench... but you don't need an angle torque wrench. TTY hardware can be torque using dial adapters that tell you angle. Been using this for 20+ years:

Granted, something like a techangle is more convenient because its all in one package. Not that I recommend it, but when I was younger I did my W124 HG with 90* + 90* tightening procedure and just used a breaker and eyeballed it. Car ran for 200k+ miles.

i absolutely hate them things...

i bought one years ago when i 1st ran into torque turn engine hardware.
it lasted through 1 rebuild before i went to the "mark on the socket" method.

 

[Qualitytools]

You should check out NORBAR T. Wrenches they have a 3% accuracy vs the standard 4%, excellent quality precision tool. Ask me how I know I own 2 of them and they come with a certificate of calibration. You will not be disappointed and your wallet will Love you!

 

[one9gt]

Are you expecting to work in a shop or is this more diy? If it's a shop, then most likely you'll have a tool truck and with that you have face to face contact with a driver that will give you way more than anyone else you buy off online. Most drivers can check accuracy of your torque wrenches on the truck and if it needs major repair or calibration you can always contact your driver and he can be at your place in no time compared to buying from a manufacturer where you'll have to package it, ship it and then wait for them to repair and ship it back. My driver generally will let me borrow a loaner if my specialty stuff needs to go in for repair. You pay more but also get more...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[anndel]

Precision Instruments is a separate company from Snap On and does not make their OEM torque wrenches. Maybe in the past they did and rebadged it Snap On until SO bought out CDI which makes OEM Snap On. CDI is a Snap On Industrial Brand along with Williams and Bahco. CDI, Precision Instruments both are excellent brands and you can't go wrong with either. I have a CDI 1/2" with the resin (plastic) handle and a cheap Tekton 3/8". I'm planning to upgrade the 3/8" to a CDI and use the Tekton for my bicycles.

 

[skruft]

Except when I was first starting to work on cars, I have always used the micrometer (click) type. I think that in cases of low torque any would work. Sometimes I have to pull very hard and my position is not convenient to watch a dial.