Need advice on correcting a poor gas line installation in kitchen

[MattVette89]

So the short story is we are doing a quick kitchen facelift. Granite countertops, tile back splash, new stove.

I removed the built in oven and found this behind it:









The house was built around 01/02. They cut the drywall and ran the gas line in the wall. They left the drywall open like you see and installed the built in oven.

I will repair the drywall, and make access covers for the electrical junction boxes.

I plan on removing the excess pipe and making it a connection near the floor for the new stove. But I thought you shouldn't run pipe in the wall like that and all joints should be accessible? Should I box it in with 2x4s and then make an access panel that can be removed?

Suggestions are appreciated.

 

[Jackfre]

Wow, in looking at that I finally got one of those flashbacks they promised me back in the 60's. Your plan to bring the gas in low is good depending upon what you are connecting to it. As long as you are going to open the wall I think I would forgo the sheetrock and put a sheet metal cover over the wall and call it good.

 

[MattVette89]

Jack....the wall is open already, that's how I found it. The brown stuff is blown in insulation. I plan on putting the gas shut off valve near the floor, it will be connected to a standard flex line for a gas stove. Basically where you can see the union at the bottom of the picture is where I will add an elbow and ******.

Can anyone tell me if I can (by code/standard) do two 90* elbows so that the valve will run horizontal along the wall?

 

[brewchief]

Jack....the wall is open already, that's how I found it. The brown stuff is blown in insulation. I plan on putting the gas shut off valve near the floor, it will be connected to a standard flex line for a gas stove. Basically where you can see the union at the bottom of the picture is where I will add an elbow and ******.

Can anyone tell me if I can (by code/standard) do two 90* elbows so that the valve will run horizontal along the wall?

Two 90s should be fine, you can have fittings in the wall but not unions, flex connector cannot pass through walls, floors, cabinets, etc.

If I understand your plan correctly you will be good to go.

 

[Jackfre]

Jack....the wall is open already, that's how I found it. The brown stuff is blown in insulation. I plan on putting the gas shut off valve near the floor, it will be connected to a standard flex line for a gas stove. Basically where you can see the union at the bottom of the picture is where I will add an elbow and ******.

Can anyone tell me if I can (by code/standard) do two 90* elbows so that the valve will run horizontal along the wall?

Ok, proof positive. Good flashback

 

[SALIV8]

You also do not want to reuse that silver flex line. You will want to get a yellow coated one that is available at most stores.

 

[Milton Shaw]

That is a mess alright. Do you have another gas appliance hooked up with a regulator going through the top corner. Looks like you might have gas cooktop and oven connections there. Are you going back with stove or separate units. A lot of stoves now are dual fuel with gas cooktop and electric ovens. Much better control of oven with electric than with gas in top of line units.

 

[MattVette89]

Thanks, guys. Correct, that is currently hooked to a gas cooktop. I will not reuse that line. We have a new gas stove that will be replacing the built in/cooktop combo.

My main concern is the gas line in the wall and if I should box it in and leave it open/access panel or if I should just drywall everything and make it sealed off with the new drywall.

 

[SALIV8]

Thanks, guys. Correct, that is currently hooked to a gas cooktop. I will not reuse that line. We have a new gas stove that will be replacing the built in/cooktop combo.

My main concern is the gas line in the wall and if I should box it in and leave it open/access panel or if I should just drywall everything and make it sealed off with the new drywall.

i would be sure to leave the valve easily accessible.

 

[MattVette89]

i would be sure to leave the valve easily accessible.

Thanks. The valve will be outside of the wall. Not sure if I should leave the pipe/elbow open or just close it in.

 

[SALIV8]

Thanks. The valve will be outside of the wall. Not sure if I should leave the pipe/elbow open or just close it in.

After you leak test the repipe, I wouldnt be worried either way. But I always leak test... soapy water.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Might as well make that receptacle legal while you're at it, too...

Tommy

 

[ambenz]

You really should add a sediment trap below the on off gas valve.

Sediment traps are intentionally installed to help prevent sediment in the gas piping from getting into the gas valve or burner area of an appliance and fouling things up. The photo below shows eighteen years of sediment accumulation at the first sediment trap at my own house, which is located on the main gas line just before the pressure regulator.

But it's really no big deal if you don't...but it could prevent sticky automatic valves down the road.

 

[MattVette89]

Might as well make that receptacle legal while you're at it, too...

Tommy

Can you expand on that?

 

[LS6 Tommy]

I suppose "legal" was a poor word choice. Maybe "right" would have been better. I was referring to the 2x4 box duct taped to the front of the 4x4 box...

Tommy

 

[MattVette89]

You really should add a sediment trap below the on off gas valve.

But it's really no big deal if you don't...but it could prevent sticky automatic valves down the road.

Thanks for the advice, I'll try to incorporate that, too.

 

[MattVette89]

I suppose "legal" wasn't a good choice of words. Maybe "right" would have been better. I was referring to the 2x4 box duct taped to the front of the 4x4 box...

Tommy

Yes, I see what you mean...pics are actually deceiving. The tape is old, must have been there to cover the opening. It has a single outlet mud ring properly attached to the double gang box under the outlet cover.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Yes, I see what you mean...pics are actually deceiving. The tape is old, must have been there to cover the opening. It has a single outlet mud ring properly attached to the double gang box under the outlet cover.

I got ya. No problem. Just being typical GJ OCD...

Tommy

 

[pstnbly]

That is a hellacious mess. A house is NY state blew up last night and killed all 6 occupants. Workmanship like this demonstrates how that can happen.

 

[MattVette89]

That is a hellacious mess. A house is NY state blew up last night and killed all 6 occupants. Workmanship like this demonstrates how that can happen.

I agree. I'm pretty pissed. It surprises me because the rest of the house is well done. This is the only problem.

To add to it...just tried to shut off the gas valve for the cooktop....and I can't because the knob hits the countertop. Unreal. Once I get the countertops pulled out I can do it but geeze.

 

[MattVette89]

I got ya. No problem. Just being typical GJ OCD...

Tommy

No, you saw something that looked wrong and pointed it out. I appreciate iate that. This whole thing is a mess. I still can't figure out the two junction boxes.

 

[CNGsaves]

Is that exterior wall ?? Does that insulation need to stay ??

 

[MattVette89]

Is that exterior wall ?? Does that insulation need to stay ??

Yes and yes.

On a positive note, when I took the flare fit gas flex line off I found pipe dope on the threads

I have it capped for now. Found the main gas valve in the basement so that's a positive. I've figured out how I want to repipe it, and it will include a drip leg (thanks for the suggestion above). I have to get to the hardware store tomorrow and pick up a few pieces.

I did make some progress on the rest of the kitchen, though. Sink and cooktop are out and all of the countertops are unattached. Hopefully I can start the drywall soon.

Thanks to everyone for the ideas.

 

[MattVette89]

Worked on the kitchen today and got a chance to fix the problems. Thanks to everyone for the helpful suggestions.