I didn't really have a plan, just what I drew by hand so I could get the permit. The only thing I actually have a real drawing of is the trusses. If you are interested I can scan that and post it?
24'x60' garage addition build
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- Start date
I didn't really have a plan, just what I drew by hand so I could get the permit. The only thing I actually have a real drawing of is the trusses. If you are interested I can scan that and post it?
1949 caddyman
Well-known member
I was just wondering what the roofline was going to look like.
It runs opposite of the way the original garage roof ran. I should have time to post more pictures tonight.
The following pictures are from day 2 and 3. A full truck of lumber showed up first thing in the morning.
We immediately got started framing the walls. It was nice to have the flat surface of the concrete floor to build on.
We put all the plywood and the Tyvek on the walls right on the ground and then picked the whole wall up with the Lull and put them in place. It was so nice having that machine to do the heavy lifting for us. On the back wall I put a header in just in case someday I want to put a garage door going out to the back yard. I will probably never do it, but for the price of a couple 2x10's it will save a ton of time down the road if I ever decide to put the door in. The wall height was figured so that I will have 12' 2" from the floor to the ceiling.
We did the 60 foot side wall in 2 separate pieces, it would have been too unstable to try to pick up the whole thing in one shot.
We left this wall a little short and will frame it in after. All the tubing for the radiant floor comes out less than 1" from where the wall sits on the foundation. I didn't want to take any chances of damaging that with the wall swinging around on the lift.
All buttoned up after only 2 days of framing. I was very happy with the progress!!
We immediately got started framing the walls. It was nice to have the flat surface of the concrete floor to build on.
We put all the plywood and the Tyvek on the walls right on the ground and then picked the whole wall up with the Lull and put them in place. It was so nice having that machine to do the heavy lifting for us. On the back wall I put a header in just in case someday I want to put a garage door going out to the back yard. I will probably never do it, but for the price of a couple 2x10's it will save a ton of time down the road if I ever decide to put the door in. The wall height was figured so that I will have 12' 2" from the floor to the ceiling.
We did the 60 foot side wall in 2 separate pieces, it would have been too unstable to try to pick up the whole thing in one shot.
We left this wall a little short and will frame it in after. All the tubing for the radiant floor comes out less than 1" from where the wall sits on the foundation. I didn't want to take any chances of damaging that with the wall swinging around on the lift.
All buttoned up after only 2 days of framing. I was very happy with the progress!!
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The next morning the truck with my trusses arrived and we got back to work.
We built the overhangs right on the ground, and even installed the Azek trim board.
Putting the trusses in went pretty quickly. We had left the plywood on the walls about 4" higher than the top of the sill, so it made dropping the trusses in and lining them up quick and easy. I think it took the 3 of us a total of about 4-5 hours to put them all in (not including the front and the back one).
Half done!
All done except for the last one that you can see sitting on the ground to the left. Every 20' or so, we would put a small pile of plywood in the trusses to install later as the attic floor. We also installed the front wall which was built on the ground just like all the other walls.
We built the overhangs right on the ground, and even installed the Azek trim board.
Putting the trusses in went pretty quickly. We had left the plywood on the walls about 4" higher than the top of the sill, so it made dropping the trusses in and lining them up quick and easy. I think it took the 3 of us a total of about 4-5 hours to put them all in (not including the front and the back one).
Half done!
All done except for the last one that you can see sitting on the ground to the left. Every 20' or so, we would put a small pile of plywood in the trusses to install later as the attic floor. We also installed the front wall which was built on the ground just like all the other walls.
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Next up was framing in the area where the house roof meets the garage roof, and putting the plywood and shingles on. If I remember correctly this took about 2 1/2 days, but it was really hot the day we started doing the shingles so we were going slow and stopped earlier than usual.
We put down 2 rows of ice and water shield, and then regular tar paper the rest of the way up. The shingles were the closest color match I could get to match the 15+ year old shingles on the house.
As you can see, the new shingles matched the front of the house (right side of the picture) better than the rear. The front of the house faces south, so they faded more over the years from being in the sun.
All done.
We put down 2 rows of ice and water shield, and then regular tar paper the rest of the way up. The shingles were the closest color match I could get to match the 15+ year old shingles on the house.
As you can see, the new shingles matched the front of the house (right side of the picture) better than the rear. The front of the house faces south, so they faded more over the years from being in the sun.
All done.
Laracar
Active member
I have to say it's just perfect!!Thanks for the pics,keep the updates.
toolman82
Well-known member
Very nice!!
Keep the pics coming
Keep the pics coming
polexican23
Banned
that created a lil space that is begging for a little courtyard makeover. maybe a fountain/fire pit between the back door and the garage back door.
Bib Overalls
Well-known member
Plan ahead, sweat the details. Your a man after my own heart. Is the workmanship in the house up to your standards or will you be taking a chain saw to it next?
I agree, it is the perfect space to put something. After the garage is 100% done I will do something with that area.
I have a whole list of things to do in and to the house, which I will start working on after I get the garage finished. I won't be taking a chain saw to it though, that would be too messy!
Next up was the garage doors and walk out doors. The garage doors are 9'x9' and I got the Overhead Door "Thermacore" R17.5 2" thick doors with commercial style tracks.
The walk out doors are from Harvey, and they are steel insulated outswing doors.
I went with ASSA deadbolts for a little extra security, and I also went with lever style handles, so the door can easily be opened with an elbow if your hands are full carrying stuff.
The deadbolts came with these reinforcement cups that go through the frame and actually a little bit into the 2x6 stud framing. There are 2 holes in the bottom of the cup to drive screws through into the wall framing.
I even went a little further with that idea, and made up a steel plate that I screwed to the side of the door framing. After the door was all installed, I drove several 4" screws through the door framing, the steel plate, and into the 2 studs of the wall. The deadbolt reinforcement cup goes through this steel plate as well. I feel comfortable that the doors can't be easily pried open.
The walk out doors are from Harvey, and they are steel insulated outswing doors.
I went with ASSA deadbolts for a little extra security, and I also went with lever style handles, so the door can easily be opened with an elbow if your hands are full carrying stuff.
The deadbolts came with these reinforcement cups that go through the frame and actually a little bit into the 2x6 stud framing. There are 2 holes in the bottom of the cup to drive screws through into the wall framing.
I even went a little further with that idea, and made up a steel plate that I screwed to the side of the door framing. After the door was all installed, I drove several 4" screws through the door framing, the steel plate, and into the 2 studs of the wall. The deadbolt reinforcement cup goes through this steel plate as well. I feel comfortable that the doors can't be easily pried open.
rpenterics
Well-known member
awesome addition, Update?
anuccite
Well-known member
Excellent Work.... And Having that machine made for a ton less lifting.... I get additional ideas for my planned garage every time I visit this site.....
And I also am getting insight on how to make the projects I can do myself eaiser
And I also am getting insight on how to make the projects I can do myself eaiser
MrBalll
Well-known member
Just found this topic and must say, you pay close attention to detail.
The last set of pictures looks good. Hopefully you have finished the inside.
Curious to see what's in it.
The last set of pictures looks good. Hopefully you have finished the inside.
Curious to see what's in it.
Thanks for the interest. The garage is further along, but not finished yet. I got frustrated with a poor quality pull down attic staircase about 6 months ago, and I was kind of burned out from almost 3 years of working on the garage, so I had to walk away from it for a little while. I will be back on it again soon. I do have more pictures, and I will try to post them up in the next couple days.
swflge8
Active member
Sometimes a break is needed, its looking great btw keep up the great work
Next up was the electrical. I used a Square D QO series 42 circuit 200 amp main panel as the sub panel in the garage. The reason I did this was to have a main breaker in the garage so I could shut down everything at once from inside the garage if necessary. I chose the Square D brand because it was made in the USA. The breaker feeding the panel from my main panel in the house is 125 amps.
I have 9 50 amp 220 outlets. Each of those outlets is wired with 6/3 Romex, all are home runs back to the sub panel. There is currently almost 600 feet of 6/3 wire in the walls. Even though I could have run 6/2, I decided to run 6/3 instead, that way if the day ever comes where I need to have a neutral for something, its already there. I used all Hubbell made in the USA 50 amp outlets.
I ran an excessive amount of 110 outlets that are spaced a maximum of 8' apart. I also put outlets high up by the garage doors for possible future garage door openers. I am into my 4th 250' roll of 12/2 wire so far.
The feed cable from the main panel is 2/0 SER aluminum wire, and its about 80' long.
Your probably wondering why I ran all the wires out the bottom of the panel. I did this because I am going to put as many runs of smurf tubing as I can off the top of the panel and into the attic. I figure that some day down the road I am going to need to get more wires into the panel after the garage is sheetrocked, and this will make my life easier when that happens.
I tried very hard to use all American made supplies while building this garage. One thing that I had a very hard time finding was tamper resistant GFI outlets. The best I could find was "assembled" in the USA by Hubbell. Unfortunately, the electrical code forced me to use tamper resistant outlets, otherwise I would have had more options.
I made it so the bottom of the faceplates of the 110 outlets are a little over 4' off the floor. I did that so I could lean a piece of plywood or sheetrock against the wall and not block the outlets.
And here is a reel I made to help dispense the RG6 COAX, CAT 6a network cable, 12/4 copper speaker wire, and 18/4 alarm cable. I also have HDMI cable to run as well.
I have 9 50 amp 220 outlets. Each of those outlets is wired with 6/3 Romex, all are home runs back to the sub panel. There is currently almost 600 feet of 6/3 wire in the walls. Even though I could have run 6/2, I decided to run 6/3 instead, that way if the day ever comes where I need to have a neutral for something, its already there. I used all Hubbell made in the USA 50 amp outlets.
I ran an excessive amount of 110 outlets that are spaced a maximum of 8' apart. I also put outlets high up by the garage doors for possible future garage door openers. I am into my 4th 250' roll of 12/2 wire so far.
The feed cable from the main panel is 2/0 SER aluminum wire, and its about 80' long.
Your probably wondering why I ran all the wires out the bottom of the panel. I did this because I am going to put as many runs of smurf tubing as I can off the top of the panel and into the attic. I figure that some day down the road I am going to need to get more wires into the panel after the garage is sheetrocked, and this will make my life easier when that happens.
I tried very hard to use all American made supplies while building this garage. One thing that I had a very hard time finding was tamper resistant GFI outlets. The best I could find was "assembled" in the USA by Hubbell. Unfortunately, the electrical code forced me to use tamper resistant outlets, otherwise I would have had more options.
I made it so the bottom of the faceplates of the 110 outlets are a little over 4' off the floor. I did that so I could lean a piece of plywood or sheetrock against the wall and not block the outlets.
And here is a reel I made to help dispense the RG6 COAX, CAT 6a network cable, 12/4 copper speaker wire, and 18/4 alarm cable. I also have HDMI cable to run as well.
This is an awesome build! your attention to detail, pre-planning, and ability to not just rush to get it done is great. all of the little details will make this a building you can enjoy for quite a while. Congrats! cant wait for more updates.
vonpahrkur
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2008
- Messages
- 32
Yes, nice work. would love to see some exterior shots of the front etc. keep up the good work!
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Wow, I don't know how I missed this build. Looking forward to seeing more of it. Great job!!!
For the siding I used Certainteed Monogram 46 vinyl which was a slightly off white color called "Snow". I trimmed out all the doors with solid white vinyl brick molding, which will hopefully never need any maintenance in the future. I also put up vinyl mounting blocks for lights by each door, and a couple vinyl weatherproof electrical outlet enclosures. My neighbor and 1 of of his workers came over and gave me a hand doing the actual siding.
In the front I made it so the vinyl siding on the garage met up with the wood clapboards on the house behind where a downspout is so you don't see the transition. For some reason I don't have any finished pictures of the front. I will take some soon and post them.
In the front I made it so the vinyl siding on the garage met up with the wood clapboards on the house behind where a downspout is so you don't see the transition. For some reason I don't have any finished pictures of the front. I will take some soon and post them.
themiller
Well-known member
At first I was like "gah" the transition is tacky - but then I read your description and thought "man - what a smart guy".
Thanks! I will get a picture with the downspout installed, it looks much better. You don't even really notice the transition at all.
vonpahrkur
Active member
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2008
- Messages
- 32
looks good!
1970montess
Member
Awesome attention to detail, and great craftsmanship. I love seeing people trying to buy all USA made products, I make it a point to buy USA made products on every purchase I can. 
Awesome attention to detail, and great craftsmanship. I love seeing people trying to buy all USA made products, I make it a point to buy USA made products on every purchase I can.
Thank you!!
1949 caddyman
Well-known member
Thanks for the post, looks nice!
SiGmA_X
Well-known member
Fantastic build sir, looks great.
Press_Corpse
Well-known member
Subb'd ! Love all the detail you put into your posts, so please keep up with that!
Pathfinders
Well-known member
Garage looks great.