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Carport style garages

marcusicp

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Jan 29, 2010
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494
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NC
I am going to be building a small shop to do hobby automotive work out of with a lift etc. I am pricing buildings and it looks like the carport style buildings are the cheapest option. I am curious of every ones opinion on this style and if you have any wisdom related to them you could share with me.

I'm looking at buildings specifically from this company since they are local to me. Link: Carolina Carports


Thanks
 
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stage20

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Nov 5, 2013
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pcola FL
some people are going to tell you they are 100% ****. others may tell you your building will fall over in a 30mph wind. i might agree to a point. but if cheap and fast is the way, its an option. my suggestion would be to upgrade to 12 ga framing. (its a must!!!) and also get your frame work spaced at 2ft apart instead of 5ft. the whole building is put together with thousands of #10 self drillers. there are no bolts in the building whatsoever.

i opted for one of these buildings through a deal i couldnt passed up. saved a few bucks , but even at their website price its not bad if you dont have the means or the time to do it yourself.

they put up a 20x26 in my backyard in 4 hours.

ive tied my building together completely with a big U shape loft type shelving. its not a cookie cutter anymore. its very strong and stable, if it wasnt before.

i would have loved to build one out of sticks, but at the time, i was working 7 days a week and no time to build a building. couldnt afford a contractor.
 

Stickboy

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Jan 9, 2010
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243
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Byron, GA
I have a 24x36 12ft wall carolina carport shop with 2 10x10 doors. I love it. The only absolute I would tell you is budget for good insulation. It was in my plans when I had mine built 3 years ago, but it took a few months to get the spray foam insulation people to come out. It was MISERABLE in just the April/May heat in Georgia. I can't imagine how bad it would have been without insulation in July/August.

I am in mine with slab, insulation, pallet racking/mezzonine, and electric/lighting (ran it myself) for well under $20k.

The open-truss ceiling structure of that type of build is PERFECT for a lift. With my 12ft walls, I've had a Mercedes S class on the lift with the hood open full 90 degrees up (and it is a LONG hood), and wasn't anywhere near the peek. I think the peek is about 15 ft.
 
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marcusicp

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Jan 29, 2010
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494
Location
NC
I have a 24x36 12ft wall carolina carport shop with 2 10x10 doors. I love it. The only absolute I would tell you is budget for good insulation. It was in my plans when I had mine built 3 years ago, but it took a few months to get the spray foam insulation people to come out. It was MISERABLE in just the April/May heat in Georgia. I can't imagine how bad it would have been without insulation in July/August.

I am in mine with slab, insulation, pallet racking/mezzonine, and electric/lighting (ran it myself) for well under $20k.

The open-truss ceiling structure of that type of build is PERFECT for a lift. With my 12ft walls, I've had a Mercedes S class on the lift with the hood open full 90 degrees up (and it is a LONG hood), and wasn't anywhere near the peek. I think the peek is about 15 ft.

Good to hear a positive experience. Do you remember what options you selected when buying the building? Is there anything you wish you would have changed? Also, do you have any pictures or maybe a build thread? Thanks!
 

21bubba

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116
I have a 24x36 12ft wall carolina carport shop with 2 10x10 doors. I love it. The only absolute I would tell you is budget for good insulation. It was in my plans when I had mine built 3 years ago, but it took a few months to get the spray foam insulation people to come out. It was MISERABLE in just the April/May heat in Georgia. I can't imagine how bad it would have been without insulation in July/August.

I am in mine with slab, insulation, pallet racking/mezzonine, and electric/lighting (ran it myself) for well under $20k.

The open-truss ceiling structure of that type of build is PERFECT for a lift. With my 12ft walls, I've had a Mercedes S class on the lift with the hood open full 90 degrees up (and it is a LONG hood), and wasn't anywhere near the peek. I think the peek is about 15 ft.

I've got almost the same exact building. I had six inches of concrete poured with a 12X24 pad along side for parking and a 8X12 pad outback for a lean to and compressor room.

I had mine upgraded to meet code for my area in regards to wind and snow load. Insulated, sheeted with 3/8 OBX, and 200 amp service. What more can you ask for?
 

Stickboy

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Byron, GA
Good to hear a positive experience. Do you remember what options you selected when buying the building? Is there anything you wish you would have changed? Also, do you have any pictures or maybe a build thread? Thanks!

I'll see if I can round up some pictures tomorrow. I did find the invoice for options...
24x36x12 (it is actually 35 on the footprint and overhangs 6" on each end, something they don't really explain well). Boxed eaves. My area does not require certified plans. All sides enclosed (2 sides, 2 ends). 2 10x10 rollup doors, 1 on side (was $100 extra to install on side), 1 on end (pictures will explain layout a little better). 1 windowless man door. All in was $7,860 from Carolina Carports.

Paid $3500 to have slab poured, including cement. 4" everywhere except one 12x24 bay that was poured 6" for the lift.

$1850 for stud depth open-cell spray foam insulation. It is tight as a full tick except for gaps at the top of the rollup doors. Perfectly bearable even in the hottest summer conditions, especially with both doors open and a cross-wind coming through (one of the reasons I did my rollup door configuration the way I did).

I had about $1300 in electrical materials and trenching (with a bunch left over to run more circuits as needed later), and paid $150 for 14 used t8 light fixtures from a coworker who was going to throw them out. It did take a FULL weekend and then some to wire it, but electricians were asking $5k to wire it. So I learned (with help and guidance of an electrician friend and the internet) how to wire it myself. Comes in handy when I need to add circuits.

As far as the build goes, there really isn't anything I would change for what I purchased. I would add some sort of interior wall covering like painted OSB or something for the bottom usable space (and still plan to do so). Insulation is a MUST, and I highly recommend and endorse the spray foam variety. My biggest snafu was not installing electrical right away. Waiting just a couple of months to get bids, then waiting on insulation, then planning out my own electrical install when the bids gave me a heart attack... The shop quickly filled up with stuff, and that made running the electric a nightmare. Stuff was constantly in the way, and we had to get creative with running conduit.

The shop was a game changer for me and my friends. Combined with the 4 post lift, there isn't much we can't/haven't been able to do. It is not a showcase, it is a working, very functional garage. Combine the fact that me and my friends enjoy working on mechanical things with being incredibly frugal (OK, that's too nice, I'm CHEAP), the shop has served me perfectly.
 
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marcusicp

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NC
Thanks for the information Stickboy! I can't wait to see the pictures. I do have one question though. It sounds like you ran electrical after the spray foam. How were you able to attach the conduit to the structure? Is your steel frame exposed?
 

Stickboy

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Jan 9, 2010
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Byron, GA
Thanks for the information Stickboy! I can't wait to see the pictures. I do have one question though. It sounds like you ran electrical after the spray foam. How were you able to attach the conduit to the structure? Is your steel frame exposed?

Yes, exposed steel frame, conduit just attaches to it with the standard conduit clips.
 

Stickboy

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Jan 9, 2010
Messages
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Byron, GA
Outside showing door configuration

20160528_105734.jpg

Front shot
20160528_105802.jpg

From back corner towards lift
20160528_105921.jpg

from lift looking at workshop bay/mezzonine
20160528_105948.jpg

back wall of shop
20160528_110008.jpg

lighting
20160528_110048.jpg
 

Gidteup

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Mar 13, 2010
Messages
7
Location
Chesapeake, VA
Stickboy, thanks for the good detailed information on your build. I have been considering the same size build in Virginia. How was your experience with Carolina Carports?
 
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marcusicp

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Jan 29, 2010
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494
Location
NC
Thanks for the pictures. Helps me get an idea of what to expect if I go this route. As far as the slab goes, did you have to pour a footer or anything around the perimeter for the weight of the building?
 

cory58

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Dec 23, 2015
Messages
234
Location
Charlotte, NC
I am also in NC, and my metal garage is supposed to be delivered/erected in approx one week. In case you haven't done it already, research complaints filed against any company you are thinking about buying a prefab building from. I found that there seems to be plenty of complaints for all the companies, mainly related to very long lead times and leaks after installation.

Based on a personal reference and my Internet research, I chose Capitol Buildings. They are near Winston-Salem. The process has been relatively painless so far, but I have no feedback on their buildings yet.

Cory
 
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Moose364

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Oct 21, 2014
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282
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East Texas
I also have the Carolina carport 24 x 36 x 9" tall that was put up to be a shed for my tractor and equipment, with building a shop later, well with the oilfield going to the crapper, I decided to start closing it in and doing the electric work to make it into a shop, but as far as a solid shop building I have no complaints. Its been up now 4 years and seen some bad weather and 100 mph winds. With no problem, the only thing I would have changed would have been to install the Vertical roof like Stickboy did, I did start welding a lean to shed off one side that will be closed in after I get the concrete work done, I still need concrete to be poured but with the last pay cut that may be a little while down the road, I have 4 Carolina carports up with no problems with any of them,
I will post you some pics after while.
 

readhead

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Dec 8, 2012
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6,187
Location
Durango, Co.
I was a metal building supplier and erector for fifteen years but decided to get out of the business a couple of years ago. At the first of this year we changed our business model and let go all of our employees and sold all of our equipment, cranes, skytraks, trucks etc. We set up a couple of our ex employees in their own business as installers and erectors and got back in the metal building business.

So where is all this going? One of the reasons we got out was affordability. For small buildings we were just to expensive. With the recession cutting back on commercial work sales dried up pretty quick. When we got back in I noticed that carport style buildings had picked up a large market share of the business so we started to investigate. We signed up with a supplier and quickly realized we had a problem. We started looking into complaints and were shocked at how bad it was. I had a hard time justifying the complaints with the growth of this segment.

The largest number of complaints seemed to center on installation. We decided that we needed to control the install and not be at the mercy of the company subcontractors. I started looking again for a supplier that would just supply material and came across Portal/Grace. It is a heavy duty version of the carport style building.

We now have an affordable alternative to red iron and sales have picked up. The point of all this is that you need to be very careful about who you choose. Will they provide engineering? Are stamped plans avaliable? Are they set up to install on a concrete slab sized for the building? If they can't install in the promised window will they return your deposit? That is a big one. The way this works is when the dealer takes your deposit that is their commission. The company doesn't have your money the dealer does. If you want to kill the deal you have to get your money back from the dealer who sold you the building. The building company has no skin in the deal untill about two days before install. All the components are stock sizes and if you kill the deal they don't care. All the heat is on the dealer.
 

Stickboy

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Jan 9, 2010
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Byron, GA
Thanks for the pictures. Helps me get an idea of what to expect if I go this route. As far as the slab goes, did you have to pour a footer or anything around the perimeter for the weight of the building?

I'm not fully up on concrete pouring terminology, but I think what they called it was a monolithic slab, and they did dig deeper around the perimeter, but it was all done in one pour. Keep in mind, I'm in a very mild Georgia climate, so we don't have to really worry about frost lines, etc.

Mine was a Carolina Carport brand, and they were great to deal with. In fact, "I" was the delay for install, not them. Due to several days of consecutive rain, we had to delay pouring the slab. They were very accommodating and easy to work with.

As an interesting aside, that may matter to some (didn't to me)... The install group was a trio of Trump targets (that did an excellent job in the install). As they were completing the install, the lead (the only one who spoke English and the only one that could drive) received a NASTY cut to his forearm, severing an artery. I had to rush him to our local hospital and wait several hours for him to be stitched up. When he finally came out he said "The steeches were no problema, but that tetinus shot HURTS!". I got a pretty good laugh out of that one.
 

zcar751

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Apr 15, 2013
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Knoxville, TN
I did a 26 x 40 Carolina building and overall am very happy with it. Stickboy is right about insulation is very important. I only did 2" on the ceiling which combined with ventilation makes the shop usable in the summer and during rain storms. With out insulation you can't be in the build in a mild rain storm:scared:. I am finishing the walls out slowly with glass batting and stick walls covering in dry wall and painting, but that's more hobby than necessity:D. I'm still in the building for under $20K but that doesn't include any of my labor. I had electricians run the 100 amp sub panel then I set all the outlets and lights. I also added a 10 x 20 carport on one side along with a small pad for the compressor.

Things I would change if I was doing it over. When I poured the slab I would have added two runs of block to set the wall on. I would had studded the walls, run the electrical and then had them foamed as well as increasing the ceiling foam thickness to 3". (I hate fiberglass batting) I would have also deleted the rollup doors and source insulated ones with whether shields, and maybe motorized.

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Know Wosad

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That type of engineering is one of the reasons we Yanks whupped up on the south in the 1860's.
And another reason why insurance is so damn high in storm territory. Are y'all responsible for house trailers too ? LOL
Maybe it's time for a re-match ;-)
 

readhead

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Dec 8, 2012
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Durango, Co.
During my research for a new supplier Carolina Carports had some of the best reviews. I talked with them about a dealership but they didn't want to come this far west and they weren't sure they could accommodate the snow loads we have here. Overall I was impressed with my contact with them.
 

minytrker

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Sep 19, 2012
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Brenham TX
I have a 24x40x12 I just had done. I had the walls and ceiling spray foamed, covered the walls in OSB, and put epoxy on the floors. Im adding AC next. For the money I have in it I couldnt have even got the shell of of an red iron building built. If I was doing a 40x60 or 60x80 I would have went red iron but it wasnt in the budget.
 

DpSyChO

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Sep 16, 2006
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402
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Blue Ridge Mountains of Southern Virginia
I'm looking at buildings specifically from this company since they are local to me. Link: Carolina Carports


Thanks

Where in NC are you?
I work in Surry county (where Carolina Carports is located) and kind of get the vibe that you have not had a lot of experience with this type of building before. I don't mean to imply that they are the greatest nor that they are of low quality, just pointing out that two of Carolina Carports largest competitors are also in Surry county so around here it's not hard to find a coworker, neighbor, or friend that has the type of building you are looking at.
I was close to getting this type building three years ago but went another route. If you consider yourself close to Carolina Carports I would suggest to check with their two competitors and even visit their facilities. If you find a coworker or neighbor that gives you a raving review that you value, check to see if you can find out which install crew done their install and request the same crew. I think their install crews operate sorta like independent contractors and like with any other building project a good install crew can produce a nicer product and can make the process seem a lot "easier".
 

Jd.In.NC

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May 30, 2016
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I'm in Lillington Nc.I'm planning on building a24x36 metal carport garage.Is there anywhere I can buy the frame materials by the piece?Thanks in advance
 
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marcusicp

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Jan 29, 2010
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Where in NC are you?
I work in Surry county (where Carolina Carports is located) and kind of get the vibe that you have not had a lot of experience with this type of building before. I don't mean to imply that they are the greatest nor that they are of low quality, just pointing out that two of Carolina Carports largest competitors are also in Surry county so around here it's not hard to find a coworker, neighbor, or friend that has the type of building you are looking at.
I was close to getting this type building three years ago but went another route. If you consider yourself close to Carolina Carports I would suggest to check with their two competitors and even visit their facilities. If you find a coworker or neighbor that gives you a raving review that you value, check to see if you can find out which install crew done their install and request the same crew. I think their install crews operate sorta like independent contractors and like with any other building project a good install crew can produce a nicer product and can make the process seem a lot "easier".

Thanks for the info. What route did you ultimately end up going for your build?
 

bandaidmd

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Feb 15, 2014
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Delmarva side of Md.
spray foaming the underside of an open sided carport also works great to keep the radiant heat away if using it as a patio cover. After it gets some age to it and the paint starts to get a little chaulky the condensation will rain down on your car and stain it, spray foam also eliminates that.
 

DpSyChO

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Sep 16, 2006
Messages
402
Location
Blue Ridge Mountains of Southern Virginia
I'm in Lillington Nc.I'm planning on building a24x36 metal carport garage.Is there anywhere I can buy the frame materials by the piece?Thanks in advance

You can go to Carolina Carports and their two competitors and buy materials "off the street". They may be too far drive for you though and be better off finding a local equivalent after factoring in shipping charges.

Central States also has a manufacturing facility in the same area as Carolina Carports. I have a coworker that built a pole barn and got his metal panels through a local building supply place that is a distributor for Central States, he actually went by Central States and picked up his order. I think Central States is geared more toward products for red iron type of buildings. They do not offer a "building package" themselves but may be able to offer names of who does.
 

DpSyChO

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Sep 16, 2006
Messages
402
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Blue Ridge Mountains of Southern Virginia
Thanks for the info. What route did you ultimately end up going for your build?

In the end I went with all block building with attic trusses.

If my land was flat, I would have went with a 30x40 red iron package that a semi local place offers. I went to their HQ a couple of counties away and also looked at about five buildings they had put up, one even a fellowship hall for a church in the area. My land is sloping and for the red iron building package the land has to be relativity flat. I either had to flatten out an area big enough for the building which would have a retaining wall right beside the building which I didn't want because I knew it would fill up with leaves (or snakes), or put the building on top of a stem wall which changed the wall /direction the garage doors would be on plus all kind of engineering requirements as far as footings were concerned (which added in very substantial cost). I then compared cost for laying the block for stem wall and going stick built on top of it and also all block. My front wall where the garage doors are, are level with grade but the ground slopes up around the garage, one back corner is 2-1/2' below grade and the other corner is 6' below grade.
 
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