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Straighten vise handle ideas

BBC71Nova

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So I picked up the 35th anniversary Wilton 5 1/2" Tradesman vise from Zoro. Actually it arrived last week. Unfortunately UPS must've had a field day with the box because the vise base wore/tore through both the heavy Wilton box and the outer box Zoro placed it in. Other than some minor worn paints spots and scuffs (no biggie it IS a vise after all) the vise seems ok with the exception of the handle which is bent. It isn't a severe bend but it does totally **** to purchase a new USA made vise and it arrive in less than perfect condition. Due to the placement of the bend, it can slightly impact the sliding back and forth of the handle as you go through the tightening process. :sad:

I'm debating whether or not I should just return it. Part of me just doesn't want to deal with the hassle knowing that it is fairly likely that the replacement may suffer similar - or worse - fate since I can't control how it is packed.

Zoro spoke to Wilton and they aren't willing to ship out a new handle assembly. If I keep this vice I'd like to attempt to straighten the handle.

I have a shop press but that'll require dissasembly. Any ideas for straightening the handle without dissasembly? How much force is it gonna take? I haven't attempted it because I haven't yet decided if I am gonna return it or not.

vise_zpsei7k4j41.jpg
 
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lilredex

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If it was bolted down securely, you could slip a long pipe over that handle and bring it back in line.

If it were mine, I'd send it back....for a new one.
 

astroracer

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Like lilredex said. Bolt it down and use a piece of pipe to straighten it. It will take longer to bolt it down then it will to fix it. :)
Mark
 
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BBC71Nova

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I was under the impression that removal of the handle was more involved than removing the 3 screws. I think there is a pin in the rear holding cap on, c-clips, etc that is removed as well?

It isn't a matter of ability to do that. It's currently more about going through that effort as an attempt at correcting it. I'm not sure it will straighten very well even in a press. Regardless, once I attempt that I'm for sure stuck with it. A new handle leaves little unknown. Simply R&R and move on.
 

Shiftless

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I was under the impression that removal of the handle was more involved than removing the 3 screws. I think there is a pin in the rear holding cap on, c-clips, etc that is removed as well?

It isn't a matter of ability to do that. It's currently more about going through that effort as an attempt at correcting it. I'm not sure it will straighten very well even in a press. Regardless, once I attempt that I'm for sure stuck with it. A new handle leaves little unknown. Simply R&R and move on.

Remove the 3 screws in front holding the horseshoe shaped washer. Rotate handle counterclockwise which will pull the spindle all the way out. You don't need to drive out the pins in the tail unless you need to remove the main nut.
The long spindle screw and handle will then be free and you can take it over to your press. The stationary and moveable jaws will stay put.
Good luck with your repair if that's what you decide to do.
 

BD1

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Cut a piece of angle iron that the bent part will fit in , as long as possible, not the ball end . Rotate the handle so the bent part is up and clamp. Now use another clamp to pull the upward part down. I did this with pipe but depends on the handle steel content. Won't hurt to try.
 

JZiggy

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I have had good luck straightening "kinks" like that by sliding the handle into a position where the kink is positioned just out the outside of the spindle, so it will take the most torque. Hit the end of the handle with a deadblow hammer in the direction you want it to bend. A few moderate hits will probably do it. All this must be done with the vise bolted down of course.

It may help, but the handle will never again be totally straight, no matter what you do.
 

Shiftless

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I have had good luck straightening "kinks" like that by sliding the handle into a position where the kink is positioned just out the outside of the spindle, so it will take the most torque. Hit the end of the handle with a deadblow hammer in the direction you want it to bend. A few moderate hits will probably do it. All this must be done with the vise bolted down of course.

It may help, but the handle will never again be totally straight, no matter what you do.

Maybe that's reason enough to return the whole thing for a refund and buy a restored vintage vise from one of the guys on the vise thread. It will look like new and be less expensive too!
 

Mohawk Dave

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I pull handle out with lead screw. Heat handle with Mapp gas. Use heavy brass hammer on anvil. Little unwieldy as lead screw is still on...but I get them to 99% or better.
 

My Old Tools

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I straightened my 5" Wilton machinist vise handle with my arbor press. Just unscrew it as directed above and take it to the press. Took about a minute in a 5 ton arbor press. No heat required.
 

jakemac

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As others have said, remove the screw and take it to the press.

DO NOT use the pipe method mentioned by others. Doing so risks stretching or stripping the main screw or main nut, or worse, breaking the dynamic jaw tower off the slide.
 

lilredex

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As others have said, remove the screw and take it to the press.

DO NOT use the pipe method mentioned by others. Doing so risks stretching or stripping the main screw or main nut, or worse, breaking the dynamic jaw tower off the slide.

You snug up the jaws first so you have a solid block. It does not take much force to straighten a vise handle.

Have done many that way with no damage to anything.
 
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transittech

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Feb 27, 2012
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I would call up Wilton and ask them how to straighten it. If I was forced to make a bet, I would bet the handle is heat treated and heating it up would destroy that.

I snapped a handle on an old Morgan one day trying to straighten it with a pipe. (It had a BIG bend) I figured if it bent the first time without heat, it would the second. Wrong!
 

454ragtop

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I can assure you that vise handle is not heat treated. I'd straighten it cold anyway, takes longer to type this message than it would to straighten it. OP needs to decide fix it or return it, and go from there. If you don't want to remove the 3 screws, just remove the dynamic jaw, that vise isn't that heavy. I prefer to straighten with a hammer, but in this case with a brand new vise, I'd use the press, with wood or aluminum between the b press and the handle so as not to mark it up, which is usually less of a consideration with a used vise.
 

PureLeaf

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Sorry to see what happened to your Vise OP.

I bought a Peddinghaus from Zoro and the handle came packed separately and had to be assembled onto it. Guess this is why.

Personally, I'd make Zoro take it back. You paid a lot of money for a vise to last a lifetime. I'd expect mine to be perfect. More than capable of putting my own dents and dings in.
 

diagnosis

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Personally, I'd make Zoro take it back. You paid a lot of money for a vise to last a lifetime. I'd expect mine to be perfect. More than capable of putting my own dents and dings in.

This:thumbup:

If it was on clearance, or you got a hell of a deal, I'd consider fixing it yourself, but you bought a new vise, not a new damaged vise. I'd either return it, or make a deal for a partial refund.
 

astroracer

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You snug up the jaws first so you have a solid block. It does not take much force to straighten a vise handle.

Have done many that way with no damage to anything.

Exactly... never hurt the vise when it's clamped up. I have also done many this way with zero issues....
If you think about it, BENDING the handle (read that as pounding on it with big hammer) is much more stressful on the vise then a little bit of gentle persaution with a piece of pipe
In fact, I have one right now that needs to be straightened... Should I take pics while doing it?
LOL... And NOW we are into two pages of speculation for a two minute job... :)
Mark
 
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Shiftless

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Exactly... never hurt the vise when it's clamped up. I have also done many this way with zero issues....
If you think about it, BENDING the handle (read that as pounding on it with big hammer) is much more stressful on the vise then a little bit of gentle persaution with a piece of pipe
In fact, I have one right now that needs to be straightened... Should I take pics while doing it?
LOL... And NOW we are into two pages of speculation for a two minute job... :)
Mark

Yep! I was just about to say the same thing.
this is GARAGE JOURNAL
:D
 
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BBC71Nova

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Thanks guys. This worked out to be pretty painless after all. Learning that removing the spindle didn't require pulling the end cap, etc was a game changer. I also expected that the handle would be much harder than it actually seems to be. Makes more sense now how it got bent during UPS Shipper Olympics.

I pulled the handle/spindle assembly. Then using a straightedge as I rotated the handle I located and marked the crown so that I could position it best in the press. After a few press, check with straightedge, press, check with straightedge iterations the handle is now very close to perfectly straight. It's straight enough that you'd need a straightedge to see it isn't perfect. That's to be expected since there's some stretching that goes on when it bent.

I guess the best part about it arriving with a little paint worn off, bent handle, etc is that it won't bother me so much the first time I add to that damage :). I have heard stories of owners that would go ahead and dent a new service truck before handing off to a tech. In the process telling them to worry about the job and not the tool/truck. Sort of like that I guess. Nay... this is GJ.

BTW Zoro did offer 10%. Not a lot but they've been very good to deal with, etc so I was good with it. Given I purchased it with 25% deal initially I'm into the vise (w/Bash hammer) for ~$270 total. Not too bad.
 

drivesitfar

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BBC: I wouldn't put a pipe on the end of a handle and have seen WAAAAAAAY too many vises broken using that method to tighten something. sure if a member or person has the skills to know how much pressure to use it could work, but taking the screw out and over to a press or just to a steel bench or piece of RR track to hit with a hammer is much easier.

handles were designed to fail before a user could do some real damage to the main screw, vise nut or dynamic so as has been said they are fairly soft. I've bent a handle on a Wilton in the past by tightening by hand so i'd say they are a bit softer than most of the vises I own.

your call as to whether you want to try and return or get a refund. also did you take pictures and document the damaged box? I might mention it to the company I bought it from and keep it and fix it so at least they know to maybe use a different shipping company for the next guy.

good luck
 
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