Replace load center with lightly corroded bus?

[reader2580]

I am moving circuits from my main load center to a new sub panel that is fed by a generator transfer switch. Main panel is ITE Gould from 1980.

I almost couldn't get an old 20 amp breaker out of the main panel. It turned out there is a light layer of what looks like rust on the aluminum bus bar. The main wires coming into the box had not had duct seal installed and moisture probably got into the box. (It has duct seal now.) The bus bars are not pitted or corroded that I can tell. It doesn't look like some I have seen with most of the tab gone.

Do I need to replace the panel because of the minor corrosion? I would rather not due to all the work to replace it, but I also want to be safe. I am going to replace the old breakers. I already put in new AFCI breakers where required in 2014.

 

[rockwithjason]

Buff up the stabs with a scotchbrite pad and apply a new dab of nolox. No need to replace

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Buff up the stabs with a scotchbrite pad and apply a new dab of nolox. No need to replace

This is a bad idea especially if the buss bars are plated.

OP- is the main panel outside or inside and flush/semiflush or surface mounted?

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Pictures?

 

[reader2580]

Here is a picture. I don't know how rust forms on aluminum unless the breaker contact is steel. You'll notice the main breaker also has some rust on it.

I'm not sure it is a big deal, but I really don't know. All I know is I really had to beat on the breaker to get it out. I reused the breaker in my sub panel as I didn't have another one, but I will be replacing the breaker ASAP.

 

[Cmreschke]

This is a bad idea especially if the buss bars are plated.

OP- is the main panel outside or inside and flush/semiflush or surface mounted?

Why a bad idea. I would do the same, it has been recommended by GE and DTE (poco) for connections on their equipment.

 

[reader2580]

Sorry, I forgot to answer some of the questions:

Load center is mounted inside in the basement. It is screwed to plywood that is attached to the concrete block. It wouldn't be horrible to replace the load center, but it is still a pain to pull all of the wires out of the load center and then put them all back into the load center.

The biggest hassle would probably be reattaching the wires from the meter. The entrance wires are so tight that if the terminals are not in the exact same place on a new load center that they wouldn't reach. (I suppose terminal location is standardized.) This could be an opportunity to replace the aluminum with copper wire I guess.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Why a bad idea. I would do the same, it has been recommended by GE and DTE (poco) for connections on their equipment.

I generally consider any equipment or advise the comes from GE to be a good reason to run like hell myself anyway.

 

[ishiboo]

Minor cleaning of connections like that is fine, as long as it makes a good strong physical connection when you're done. Dielectric grease will prevent corrosion of the bus if you did take plating off it. If the whole panel was a mess I would say definitely go ahead and replace it, but that is a VERY minor issue which I'm sure is common to those panels at that age.

You probably want to pull them all and take a look and grease them.

 

[reader2580]

Most of the breakers were replaced in 2014 with new breakers and I don't remember seeing issues with others at the time. Many of the breakers are currently being moved to a sub panel to work with a whole house generator.

The breaker in question was an original from 1980. It was originally for electric heat and was reused for central A/C in 2014. (Electric heat replaced with gas furnace.)

 

[checkthisout]

Condensation corroding the insides of the breakers which is then running down ever so slightly onto the buss

 

[gregtwojeeps]

From the appearance of the rust water spot on the main breaker's lower right side in the pic, I wonder about the reliability of the main to function properly ? I'll put it this way, I would be reserved about turning it off ....while not knowing if it will reset to normal position. Rust caused from either external water entry or sweating, plays havoc on a breakers movable internal parts.... making them unreliable to do their job. JMO though

 

[reader2580]

I didn't think about the internals of the main breaker maybe being rusted. I assumed the internals are metals like copper and aluminum that would not rust. I turned off the main breaker this weekend and it turned back on just fine.

I doubt I can get a replacement main breaker new. The current Siemens main breakers appear to be a different size than what I have in my ITE Gould panel. I have a 28 space load center and the closest 200 amp load center Siemens makes is a 30 space. (I don't need more breaker space since I added sub panel for my generator.)

I was thinking I wouldn't have to do anything with the load center, but the main breaker could be a reason to replace the load center.

 

[gregtwojeeps]

I didn't think about the internals of the main breaker maybe being rusted. I assumed the internals are metals like copper and aluminum that would not rust. I turned off the main breaker this weekend and it turned back on just fine.

I doubt I can get a replacement main breaker new. The current Siemens main breakers appear to be a different size than what I have in my ITE Gould panel. I have a 28 space load center and the closest 200 amp load center Siemens makes is a 30 space. (I don't need more breaker space since I added sub panel for my generator.)

I was thinking I wouldn't have to do anything with the load center, but the main breaker could be a reason to replace the load center.

If you turned the main off and then back on and did not notice any lights flickering or heard any sizzling noises emitting from it, then you are probably o.k. No guarantees really though, whenever dealing with possibly water damaged electrical equipment. JMO