Well Pump sizing/model question.

[acer66]

Hi,

My well pump just stopped working properly, just a small drizzle is coming out.
I do not know much about pumps and a more experienced guy who helped me to pull the pump said it is done.

The old pump is a submersible 4" SB Bruiser 5-18 GPM model which according to what I read is not longer offered which to me means it has worked good for some longer time now but I can not buy it anymore.

Just to check if the on I replace is the right one and I am remodeling anyway so I think it is a good time to recalculate and I did the math according to this site.
http://www.flotecpump.com/residentialpage_resource_starthere_4inSub_SelPump.aspx

Guest bath shower 1
toilet 1
sink 1
Master bath shower 1
toilet 1
sink 1
Washer 1

Kitchen Fridge 1
sink 1
dishwasher 1
2. sink (?) 1
exterior faucets 3

total 14

So the size of the pump seems to be correct but my big question now is what new brand of pump to buy.

A little more info, the pump is around 220' deep in the ground and the water table in the well is around 35' from the ground level.
The well pipe is metal and the water is red from the abundant heavy red clay we have around here in western North Carolina.
Property is around 1 1/2 acres and I plan on doing a lot of gardening in the future and growing my own produce etc. which were the outdoor faucets come in.

Any pointers of to what features in a pump to look for are also appreciated.

Thank you

 

[Jackfre]

Check out the Grundfos DC pumps. Excellent for PV solar water pumping. I'm looking into that for my water system.

 

[Tim Kennedy]

Agree with Jackfre --- Grundfos --- expensive but a quality product.

 

[pcmeiners]

Be careful in picking out a GrundFos. Purchase one a few years back, looked great, stainless pump body. Well, I am not sure who engineered it, but they mated the stainless with a back-plane of epoxied aluminum. They backplate started to have galvanic action year 1, by year 2 it became major, by year 3 I had to get another pump. Who ever released this pump into production should have been fired. After that I would not buy another Grundfos. I suppose I am harsh, aside from the back plate, it was engineered well, just verify there is NO aluminum in the pump.

 

[58Yeoman]

I just had my pump replaced a couple months ago. The local company has been in business since the 50's, and the guy and his son were very knowledgeable. He installed a Goulds pump model 10GS05442, 1/2 HP, 4.7 amps, 220 Volt. He said that it was all stainless steel and should last for many years.

My casing is slightly bent and had a lot of rust, and he had trouble getting the old pump out, and the new one in. He said that he put it into his computer that the next time, he will install a 3" pump, which would put out the same number of gallons. I'm planning on being out of the house by the time it needs another pump.

 

[larry_g]

If you intend to do a lot of outside irrigating then you have to plan in for that. One thing that will kill a pump is the constant start and stopping of the pump. So when watering you should get enough sprinklers going to keep the pump running constantly, not cycling. If you check specs some will give you on/off cycles per hour.

When I built this house I went with a constant pressure pump. Basically a VFD controlling the speed of the pump where it just turns fast enough to maintain pressure. A second advantage to this pump is that it has no big inrush of current on startup and is easily run by a a generator. It's worked for me and I recommend it.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[pstnbly]

Call your pump supplier and they will size the pump for you based on well depth, recovery, static level, and expected delivery needs. Around here with common well recovery you'd be looking a 1/2 horsepower pump. But the suppliers will have a chart. I have a Grundfos variable output DC drive pump which I love but they are big money. Most common here are Goulds which I have personally seen last 50+ years and are bullet proof, second is Meyers.

 

[acer66]

Thanks for all the info, need to do more research and oh boy are GrundFos pricey and it would really **** if they have an issue like mentioned in post #4.

 

[texas webb]

I would advise going back with schedule 80 grey pvc and brass couplings.Use the old iron pipe for garden fence.Myers makes a good pump.

 

[Trey T]

How big your storage tank?

 

[aircommuter]

I 2nd the Grundfos constant pressure system, the pump I got was all stainless. They use far less electricity. The flow is so even it is like municipal system. The power useage has been about $7.00 per month.

 

[acer66]

I would advise going back with schedule 80 grey pvc and brass couplings.Use the old iron pipe for garden fence.Myers makes a good pump.

Sorry, I was not clear with my description the pump is connected via pvc pipes and cast iron (?) connectors, the well casing is metal, rusty I might add.

 

[acer66]

How big your storage tank?

I got nothing except for a pvc pipe coming into the basement,
the house was stripped and everything of any value was removed before I bought it.

But you bring up a good point since I have not thought about the size of the storage tank or filters.

 

[sberry]

I would be wanting a 1 hp though in a 4 inch casing.

 

[acer66]

I 2nd the Grundfos constant pressure system, the pump I got was all stainless. They use far less electricity. The flow is so even it is like municipal system. The power useage has been about $7.00 per month.

I did a quick search and that is expensive as far as I can tell but I need to do some more research.

 

[acer66]

I would be wanting a 1 hp though in a 4 inch casing.

The more hp the better?

 

[sberry]

Up to a point, you cant try to pump more than the well can provide but that ius a big casing with lots of standing water. 1/2 is kind of small for that depth and most new ones that size now use 1 hp.

 

[58Yeoman]

My well is 191' deep, and it's got a 1/2hp motor, and does fine.

 

[Chaznsc]

Your storage tank is based on fixtures, the pump on the well depth and capacity. I have used Myers in the past.

 

[tymbo]

Check out this cycle stop valve. Very ingenious mechanical valve to reduce pump start/stop cycles. Allows use of MUCH smaller storage tank.

http://www.cyclestopvalves.com/index2.html

 

[Trey T]

I got nothing except for a pvc pipe coming into the basement,
the house was stripped and everything of any value was removed before I bought it.

But you bring up a good point since I have not thought about the size of the storage tank or filters.

You might to do some forensic to determine if there was a tank, whether it was buried or located somewhere in the home. Home w/ a basement, I assumed you're in a freeze-and-thaw area?

Just keep in mind that you'll need a pressure-tank to maintain the water pressure. You can run w/o one but only if you want to wait until that pump build enough pressure to the faucet, which isn't something people are accustom to these days.

If you believe the condition of the water well is good, stick to the pump size that was installed and the depth of the pump it was placed at. Otherwise, you need to test your well to determine the water yield (gpm), water level (which you already know), and drawdown to size your pump.

 

[larry_g]

Another thing to consider; if you plan on lots of outdoor watering is to tap off the supply line before the house and run a outdoor system. No use to run this into the house where it will have restrictions, filters, and water softener. On my system I've Tee'ed off of the main line to a shutoff and then a couple of lines out to the gardens and barn. The outside lines are all 1.25" or 1" laterals. No problem with water supply for the sprinklers. This way I can shut off the outside lines during the winter when not needed.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[csp]

Just keep in mind that you'll need a pressure-tank to maintain the water pressure. You can run w/o one but only if you want to wait until that pump build enough pressure to the faucet, which isn't something people are accustom to these days.

That's a really bad idea to run without a pressure tank. Deadheading the pump like that is a good way to shorten the life of the pump.

 

[acer66]

You might to do some forensic to determine if there was a tank, whether it was buried or located somewhere in the home. Home w/ a basement, I assumed you're in a freeze-and-thaw area?

The investigation is completed and the water heater and everything else was in the basement which is like 10' away from the well.
Evidence was the incoming pipe, water came out the second the pump was on and all the remaining cut off pipes in the basement.

And yes I am in a thaw and freeze area.

Just keep in mind that you'll need a pressure-tank to maintain the water pressure. You can run w/o one but only if you want to wait until that pump build enough pressure to the faucet, which isn't something people are accustom to these days.

I might have damaged the pump that way because I let it run for a while filling up numerous 5 gl buckets for doing concrete.

If you believe the condition of the water well is good, stick to the pump size that was installed and the depth of the pump it was placed at. Otherwise, you need to test your well to determine the water yield (gpm), water level (which you already know), and drawdown to size your pump.

I might have to do that because as much as I like to put a good system in, like mentioned here, money is an issue and since I can pull the pump with the help of some friends it is not such a big deal to upgrade the system later.

 

[acer66]

That's a really bad idea to run without a pressure tank. Deadheading the pump like that is a good way to shorten the life of the pump.

Looks like I did exactly that.

 

[acer66]

Just so I understand this, when I use the spigot on the well head, that water comes back from the pressure tank and not from the pump?

 

[MagKarl]

Yes, assuming pressure is still above the low set point, water will be running "backward" from pressure tank to spigot in that case. Once the well pump kicks in, water flow would be split between the spigot and pressure tank going the "normal" direction.

 

[acer66]

Your storage tank is based on fixtures, the pump on the well depth and capacity. I have used Myers in the past.

I have to do more research on how to size everything and what all is involved.
I am on a budget but I also want to do it right

I was stopping by a local store and he recommended Myers.
But I had to swallow by the price tag of $645 for a 1hp version which he
said I should get.

 

[mexi-albertano]

the pressure system on your house should consist of a pressure tank made of steel or fiberglass, the bigger the tank the better as a 40 gallon tank will only store a third as useable capacity at your set pressure usually 50 psi, then as you open a faucet an there is demand for water the presure drops and the pump kicks in to replenish the tank, also you should use quality fittings say brass or stainless steel stay away from plastic or galvanized.

https://goo.gl/photos/kwJ9sUtub2WiZGwg9

I drill wells and replace pumps and pressure systems for a living here in Alberta, Canada.