Inspecting and moving a used drill press

[pendragon1998]

I'm driving out later today to inspect a Craftsman 150 pedestal drill press. Can y'all give me any tips for inspecting it and them moving it if I buy it? I'm going to have to lay it down in the back of my 4runner and drive it for 2.5 hrs so I don't want it to crack under it's own weight.

Things I was planning on checking for:

• Cracked castings.
• Listen to the bearings when it runs.
• Return spring on quill.
• Use a square to check for vertical square against the table on a bit chucked in the quill.
• Drill a hole with a good bit, then compare the bit to the hole to check for runout.
• Drill into some wood with just the tip at full extension to look for runout.
• I don't have a dial indicator, but I was planning on chucking in a straight round rod or drill bit and turning by hand against a block of wood to see if I could visually assess any runout.

What else?

 

[454ragtop]

When I move a drill press like that I lay it down on the side opposite the handles, after moving the table up as high as possible and swiveling it to that side. This way it rests on the side of the base, and the front of the table, with nothing touching the head. This also allows you to work smarter not harder, one person can tip it into the bed resting on the table, then lift the base and slide it in.

 

[dutchgray]

That above is how I moved mine, I had another person to help as there was no way I could have safety lifted mine myself. You can shuffle them about pretty easily when they are upright.

 

[454ragtop]

I cringe when I see a drill press laying on it's side. Too many things can break. Take it apart.

Check here for my procedure:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5362688&postcount=184

Bring a box or bucket for small parts and a variety of basic tools including a set of allen wrenches.


That looks like a nice one.
Possibly one broken or missing feed handle. Possibly missing the head frame lock handle. Nice X/Y vise.

Moved at least a dozen this way, everything from a Clausing 22" to a Delta 17's to Craftsman 150's, never took one apart, never did any damage. Take it apart if you want, seems like a lot of extra work to me.

 

[Cruzan80]

These are stupid easy to take apart. The only place you need two people is getting the head off the pole. So much easier to not risk anything breaking.

 

[pendragon1998]

Can these be retrofit with a vari-slow (I imagine they're hard to find)?

 

[Zeke]

I just sold one of those. Nice DP. Don't over think the condition. It's just an average machine. I think you can retro fit them with the HTF speed reducer. But the one I had would turn slower than the CM I replaced it with. Slow enough to use the biggest bits it will power.

 

[Davefr]

These are stupid easy to take apart. The only place you need two people is getting the head off the pole. So much easier to not risk anything breaking.

I agree. I'd at least remove the head from the column.

Tip the DP and rest the column on a sawhorse or some blocks. Now just loosen the head and slide it off. Easy one person job but two would be easier.

You can also eyeball runout pretty good just by chucking in a very small drill bit and then turn on the drill at high speed.

 

[pendragon1998]

Well...I bought it. The seller's storage area was pretty dark, and I got it home after dark, so i will have to wait until tomorrow to see how I did. I believe it is a 100, based on the tilt table feature, not a 150 like I said earlier. I only see a model number on the motor (115.6962). It is a 1/2 HP Craftsman (Packard) motor from 1953. Missing one feed handle and the head stock handle has been replaced with a nut and bolt, I guess. Table is pretty clean, with a minimal arc of shame. The vise was Taiwan made Buffalo, and was included. The base is pretty wobbly, but it is probably the floor. Not sure if I overpaid at $200, but hopefully not by too much, depending on how it looks when i clean it up. This might finally force me to buy a blasting cabinet.

 

[Cruzan80]

Drill model should be on the base, right before the pole. The head handle should have one side threaded and the other is just a hole.

At $200 you are a bit on the high side, but not crazy if you needed a floor model. Feed handles will occasionally show up on eBay. Overall,if it runs well, and you are happy, good job!

 

[pendragon1998]

There it is, under the dust on the base! 103.23141 Thanks!

 

[Cruzan80]

No problem. Finding another head handle shouldnt be too hard if it is the ball design. The same one is used forthe table and head, doubling glyour chances.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

That is a nice find. I've been watching CL around me for a while, and have found nothing of interest. Only DP's I see are benchtop models, or HF that are priced about the same as new. No old iron so far! Good Luck!

Phil

 

[pendragon1998]

Yeah, we have virtually no good tools locally. Surprised you don't have better stuff in Indiana. I look on your Craigslist pretty regularly since I have family there and they seem to have a lot of good things, at least between Indianapolis and Louisville.

 

[Cruzan80]

Thanks for the corrections Frank. Both my early 40's and 60's have the same style connector, like the one on the right. Never thought about the size of the lock cylinders, on the 150 they appear to be the same size for the handles (though one may be longer threads, never compared).

 

[pendragon1998]

Here it is running. I am thinking new bearings?

 

[paulsomlo]

Here it is running. I am thinking new bearings?

Before you replace the bearings, try greasing the splines of the spindle.

 

[pendragon1998]

I am planning on stripping it down and doing a deep clean for starters.

 

[thebeekeeper1]

Lube the poor thing--and I'd highly recommend a foot switch. Reaching back there is a dangerous PITA.