OK, I've broken a few bits, but WTF??
- Thread starter krehmkej
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chadster1
Well-known member
That is that new right angle drill bit that I have been hearing about.
His200HerScout
Well-known member
nate379
Banned
A few years ago I bought a nice Cobalt bit set. Cost me well over $200. The FIRST hole I go to drill in some 1/4 mild steel I snapped 3 bits.
Back to the store those went!
Back to the store those went!
Major Ramifications
Well-known member
I have had a cheap chinese (Performance Tool) bit untwist completely. I should have taken a picture. It was just flat.
fatfillup
Well-known member
That is sad and hilarious at the same time. Some folks don't care about country of origion but I believe in general terms, COO speaks to quality more often than not.
Certainly there are plenty of exceptions, but not in this case.
Sorry for you misfortune but thanks for sharing, that pic is great!
Certainly there are plenty of exceptions, but not in this case.
Sorry for you misfortune but thanks for sharing, that pic is great!
Uncle Buck
Banned
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43249
I posted the following just the other day regarding cheap drill bits, please see my thoughts below. You can find the same post in the thread above ^^^^^
All right, remember this lesson. "I will not buy cutting tools, bit, taps & dies, lathe cutters end mills, easy outs, bandsaw blades, hack saw blades, or even sand paper from Harbor Freight." Now, before anyone thinks I am pooping on HF parade, I am not. I have some tools from Harbor Freight that have performed flawlessly through the years for me, and I would and do highly reccommend those tools. Cutters and abrasives are not part of those materials. Never ever buy these supplies from HF or you will either F up what you are working on, or injure yourself. Leave cheap cutters alone and buy only quality cutting tools. Even used and re-sharpened cutters are vastly superior to any cheap or budget priced cutters. You can even skimp on the drill or drill press or other such machine that drives the cutter, but never the cutter. Buy the very best you can afford. Cheap will always perform to it's standard of quality, particularly in cutting tools and abrasives, there is zero room for **** there.
BTW: That also includes Northern, Enco, MSC, Travers, Grainger etc. cheap **** is cheap ****, it will not matter who sold it to you.
Stick with the better known brands such as Norseman, Greenfield, Cleveland, Triumph, and several others I should have here that are escaping my ol memory at this moment.
I posted the following just the other day regarding cheap drill bits, please see my thoughts below. You can find the same post in the thread above ^^^^^
All right, remember this lesson. "I will not buy cutting tools, bit, taps & dies, lathe cutters end mills, easy outs, bandsaw blades, hack saw blades, or even sand paper from Harbor Freight." Now, before anyone thinks I am pooping on HF parade, I am not. I have some tools from Harbor Freight that have performed flawlessly through the years for me, and I would and do highly reccommend those tools. Cutters and abrasives are not part of those materials. Never ever buy these supplies from HF or you will either F up what you are working on, or injure yourself. Leave cheap cutters alone and buy only quality cutting tools. Even used and re-sharpened cutters are vastly superior to any cheap or budget priced cutters. You can even skimp on the drill or drill press or other such machine that drives the cutter, but never the cutter. Buy the very best you can afford. Cheap will always perform to it's standard of quality, particularly in cutting tools and abrasives, there is zero room for **** there.
BTW: That also includes Northern, Enco, MSC, Travers, Grainger etc. cheap **** is cheap ****, it will not matter who sold it to you.
Stick with the better known brands such as Norseman, Greenfield, Cleveland, Triumph, and several others I should have here that are escaping my ol memory at this moment.
Jeez. Just another reminder why as long as drill bits are made in Sheffield, wherever possible my drill bits will be made in Sheffield.
'Twist drills' were once all made like that, hence the name.
'Twist drills' were once all made like that, hence the name.
fordbroncodave
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i broke a 1/2" bit in 6X6 once. that was a really bad day for me. snapped off inside the wood and i had to drill in from the other side (with a different bit) to punch it out so i could finish the hole. botched the whole project. thanks northern tool and equipment for the POS bit set
Give one of these a try. Chicago-Latrobe are well worth the extra money.
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=2132675&PMT4NO=0
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=2132675&PMT4NO=0
Look at the positive side. At least they were so ductile they won't shatter and fling sharpnel across the shop.
+10 charactersfordbroncodave
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anyone try irwin bits? the ones that come in the fancy blue and yellow case for about $120
Underdog
Well-known member
+2 on the Chicago-Latrobe, bought the 29 pc set awhile back local industrial supply house, top notch. Side note, always bought single small drill bits when needed at local Ace Hdw, Ace brand US made, probably re badged Hanson's, well now they are chicom unless your lucky and dig in the back and find some nos US ones.
rsanter
Well-known member
you misused the drill bit
it is only for drilling into chineese steel
bob
it is only for drilling into chineese steel
bob
I have irwins, they're made in china.
That being said they are the m42 cobalt drill bits. I use them lightly and I've broken 3 of the smaller ones in aluminum the first time out using oil and being careful not to burn them up. I've replaced the broken ones with snap-ons and noticed a significant difference.
That being said they are the m42 cobalt drill bits. I use them lightly and I've broken 3 of the smaller ones in aluminum the first time out using oil and being careful not to burn them up. I've replaced the broken ones with snap-ons and noticed a significant difference.
-B-
Well-known member
That is operator error, cobalt shatters if you do not use them correctly using them in a had drill is a big no no unless you can hold it as well as a drill press.
nate379
Banned
My brother is a machinist and some of the China stuff isn't bad.
I got a nice Silver and Deming set 9/16 to 2" on 1/16" increments through him. The USA made set was close to $500, China one was ~$150.
Might not be quite a good, but sometimes that's ok. I'm on a beer and fish stick budget, not champagne and caviar!
I got a nice Silver and Deming set 9/16 to 2" on 1/16" increments through him. The USA made set was close to $500, China one was ~$150.
Might not be quite a good, but sometimes that's ok. I'm on a beer and fish stick budget, not champagne and caviar!
nate379
Banned
What steel isn't from China these days?
DiStOrTiOn
Well-known member
I got one of the Made in USA (no brand name on them) sets from Enco a while back, paid 60 bucks for the 1/16 to 1/2" by sixteenths set when it was on sale, worth every penny. I've put those bits through American steel, wood, drywall, MDF, plastic, and copper. Still sharp as the day I got them, and all are still intact, even the 1/16" bits. I got the black oxide set because it had the 135 degree tips instead of the 118, huge difference in walking if you ask me.
Merkava_4
Banned
I agree, with few exceptions. HF step drills seem good, usually use them on fairly soft materials for aftermarket auto equipment installs. HF cobalt bits are good for general use. I have had good luck with Vermont American via the tool truck. I paid something like 280 bucks for a set of cobalt bits from Cornwell (VA) but the warranty is good. I never had any luck drilling through steel, with anything but quality cobalt bits.
The jury is still out on Irwin for me, anyone use the "turbo bits"?
I will look up, some of UB's brands, I am always looking for some serious cutting tools for the tough cutting jobs.
Merkava_4
Banned
If you guys ever want to get some serious drill bits, get MORSE. 
alex71
Well-known member
Really? That's such an odd statement. Are you sure you're drilling with the pointy end?
Uncle Buck
Banned
If you guys ever want to get some serious drill bits, get MORSE.
That is very true, high quality to be sure.
Merkava_4
Banned
That is very true, high quality to be sure.
Between Gordon Industrial and Johnston Industrial, plus all the welding supply stores in town, I got access to all the good stuff.
OldSchoolSS
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I just bought a harbor freight bit set about a month ago.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32925
I used a bit for the first time this weekend, I figured if it sucked for steel I'd just use them for wood. The bit cut great and made nice long chips. I was really impressed. This was drilling on my drill press at 700 rpm(slowest speed) through .5" thick mild steel. I used some MMO as the cutting fluid since that's all I had lying around. I took my time and would drill a ways then turn the drill press off and come back in a few minutes to make sure i didn't overheat the bit because the speed was too high.
I can't complain since I only paid 7.99 after sale & coupon for the set. I actually thought the bit cut better than my triumph set did when new... Maybe I got lucky?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32925
I used a bit for the first time this weekend, I figured if it sucked for steel I'd just use them for wood. The bit cut great and made nice long chips. I was really impressed. This was drilling on my drill press at 700 rpm(slowest speed) through .5" thick mild steel. I used some MMO as the cutting fluid since that's all I had lying around. I took my time and would drill a ways then turn the drill press off and come back in a few minutes to make sure i didn't overheat the bit because the speed was too high.
I can't complain since I only paid 7.99 after sale & coupon for the set. I actually thought the bit cut better than my triumph set did when new... Maybe I got lucky?
Most of the time I am drilling 10.9 grade bolts out of auto suspensions, in these cases, anything but cobalt ****. With steel stock on a drill press, less than cobalt would probably work fine. With good cobalt bits, some oil, and a slow drill, I get nice long pieces of steel as I drill, they really cut through. The titanium coated ones go dull too quick.
fordbroncodave
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anyone know who warrantys drill bits for life?
i bought a $9.99 drill bit set from northern tool and equipment. have not broke a bit yet. i just lose them and can not find them.
i bought a $9.99 drill bit set from northern tool and equipment. have not broke a bit yet. i just lose them and can not find them.
Someone earlier in the thread mentioned cleveland and greenfield. These brands are chinese owned as of a few months ago, and quality is sure to go down as the new owners close the factories (this is either in progress or done) and move all the production to their factories in china.
I agree with nate379. Anyone can say "Go out and buy the best, most expensive bits made." But go and read a few machinists BB's. A LOT of these guys use less expensive drill bits. But they know to lubricate, and they know how fast to drill and the correct pressure to apply (speed and feed). You will burn up or break the best drill bits in the world if you don't use them correctly. OTOH, a cheaper drill bit can work just fine if you use it properly, and if you know how to sharpen a bit.
It's true that some of the Chinese bits are ****. There is a commonly seen 105? piece "Titanium" set that comes in a black case, that sells for about $10 to $20. Besides the fact that thay're soft, they aren't even straight! Pretty much unusable ****. OTOH, my father picked up a 15 (?) piece set of no name TiN bits for $10 at a flea market, that are the first bits he reaches for, and are now about 10 years old.
It's true that some of the Chinese bits are ****. There is a commonly seen 105? piece "Titanium" set that comes in a black case, that sells for about $10 to $20. Besides the fact that thay're soft, they aren't even straight! Pretty much unusable ****. OTOH, my father picked up a 15 (?) piece set of no name TiN bits for $10 at a flea market, that are the first bits he reaches for, and are now about 10 years old.
Cleveland and IPG aren't Kennametal companies any more?
http://www.kennametal.com/en-US/products_services/metalworking/brands/Cleveland_brands_page.jhtml
nate379
Banned
Uncle Buck
Banned
Cleveland and IPG aren't Kennametal companies any more?
http://www.kennametal.com/en-US/products_services/metalworking/brands/Cleveland_brands_page.jhtml
Nope. They were sold to something called "Top Eastern Drill Co" in china. I have posted about this a few times on the forum.
http://www.kennametal.com/en-US/com...l;jsessionid=LJEGFKFEAZKWDLAUCYOSFEVMCQFB0IV0
sold for a paltry 30 million or so. Its ok to give automakers and banks billions, but god forgive the governtment put up any money to keep manufacturing in the US. These were american brands dating back to the 1930s or something, who manufactured products used in America in almost every aspect of daily life. Try going a day without using something where a dril bit was used... /rant
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-B-
Well-known member
Get your self some center drills, start you holes with them then drill with a good HSS but machine length is best. Try to run you hand drill at the slowest speed and give the bits some lube you will be amazed at how much better you can cut though hard steel like butter.