What size level?

[Kilgore Trout]

So, due to a leaking drain pipe, I am going to get to redo a bunch of drywall in a half bathroom and figured I might as well update the bathroom while I'm at it (new tile, new drywall, new vanity/sink, new light fixture). This combined with a fence build I will do once it cools down has me in the market for a new level. I will also be framing in our basement and hanging drywall eventually (probably a winter project)

Figured I would go stabila and buy once, cry once. So what size (or sizes would be most useful. It looks like I can get a 48/16 combo, a jamber set (32 and 78) or a 59/24 combo. I already have a magnetic empire torpedo level for small stuff.

Thoughts on the best size combos? Also any thoughts on the R series vs the 196? If i go r series, i would probably just get one length.

 

[themiller]

Jamber set IMO and get a laser level for finishing the basement.

I use my small and mid size levels the most, but when I need a long straight edge or a long level - well - not much else will do.

Laser level will be worth it for the basement project - especially since they're cheap now.

I bought my 78 on Amazon for half of the local retailers.

 

[Big Bad Pete]

I own both the 48/16 and the 59/24 combo sets. I would go for the 59/24 if I could only have one due to the versatility. The 48/16 is nice but the 16" just feels like an over sized torpedo level to me.

 

[Richard Cranium]

I either use my 2 foot or my 4 foot most of the time.

 

[FMC1959]

The 196 is what you will see most often used by contractors versus the R series. I am sure the R are bullet proof, but the 196 are also heavy duty and easier on the wallet. I have a couple of 196's and find they are top of the line.

If you do a Google search for "stabila level versus", the majority of results will be "versus Sola". Not sure if you are familiar with these, made in Austria and top quality like Stabila. I have couple of these also and I find the vials are easier to read, great for my ever worsening vision. If you check the results on the Google search you will find both brands rated highly, with those liking Sola more, is due to the vials. I think the Solas are slightly less expensive but not by much. (Their Big Red are the equivalent to the Stabila 196) Either brand you will be very happy.

For the size, I like my 16", more solid than a torpedo but still fits tight spots. I would go 16/48*@#$personally.

 

[gdocktor3]

I have a large assortment of levels from vintage Craftsman, Empire to Pittsburgh and even some from Ocean State Job Lot. I've used the cheapo levels side by side with the Empires and they work just fine. I'd say spend the money on a quality smaller level that you will use the most, then pick up a large 48"+ from HF and slap a small 24" or torpedo level on top the first time you use it just to confirm it is plumb.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

If you do a Google search for "stabila level versus", the majority of results will be "versus Sola".

Funny, that search got 3 results, this thread being one of them.
Also only 3 ads.

 

[nh_yota]

I have a large assortment of levels from vintage Craftsman, Empire to Pittsburgh and even some from Ocean State Job Lot. I've used the cheapo levels side by side with the Empires and they work just fine. I'd say spend the money on a quality smaller level that you will use the most, then pick up a large 48"+ from HF and slap a small 24" or torpedo level on top the first time you use it just to confirm it is plumb.

I have plastic 2' and 4' levels and they work just fine for me. Not the cheapest ones but the ones you can get for under $20 at the box stores. My house is 200 years old so the only thing level in the house is the water.

 

[Know Wosad]

There's not much difference in a level.It's a liquid filled bubble in a frame.
Get a couple of Stanleys 2-4-6' at the box joint and forget it.A magnetic on comes in handy once in a while. If its something critical and large distance use a transit combo and a good yard stick.Medium distance or high up I have a real expensive rig. A 20 foot piece of clear tubing and a tube of blue food coloring(red is more accurate)

 

[nh_yota]

Be careful when you buy a new level because they can be warped right off the shelf, especially the wood ones.

 

[pcmeiners]

Have a few empires, bs on the accuracy statement. When I buy a level I check them out at the store. Last time I purchased an empire 6', I created a level base on a shelf, went through 9 levels before I found one up to my specs. Once you have a good level (4-6'), they are far better then you typical laser. Agree with Wosad, a 20-100' water level is good to have, very accurate if you know how to use it. You need a minimum of a very accurate 2' and 4' level for a typical home owner; I will take that back, a typical homeowner generally needs a warped, inaccurate level 2' level, as that goes along with his ability and quality of workmanship.

 

[Casey69]

I will take that back, a typical homeowner generally needs a warped, inaccurate level 2' level, as that goes along with his ability and quality of workmanship.

LOL, as a "typical homeowner", i've had to repair plenty of farmed-out "professional" jobs.

that said, i have a torpedo, 3' & 4' level. 3' is a USA stanley & the 4' is an empire. both are fine. i need to get a 78".

 

[jallyn]

My house is 200 years old so the only thing level in the house is the water.

^ love this ^

 

[PelicanPines]

3" to 84"... they all have a use. 9" and two footer get the most use. 36" for patio work.

 

[rlitman]

There's not much difference in a level.It's a liquid filled bubble in a frame....

Un huh. Guess you haven't looked at the differences then.

I've hardly seen a 48" wooden level not warped. They're pretty, but not all that useful. Avoid these.

The current crop of extruded I beam levels are so paper thin that they twist by just looking at them (the old cast aluminum ones were solid, but their glass vials were oh-so fragile). It's well worth the extra couple of bucks for a box beam level.

As for the vial, my Johnson box beam level uses spring steel ring inserts to form the marking lines (same design as Stabila). I much prefer this to the painted lines in the Empire levels (not that painted lines cannot be done right, Starrett sure knows how to do this).

Other things I look for on a longer level (48" and up)
solid box construction
good rubber padding on the end caps
a machined edge (makes for a better straight edge than a corner that may have paint chipped off)
a vial that's well attached to the beam (look at how Stabila does this)

Being magnetic is a plus. The newest and best use inserted neodymium super magnets. That is far better than the magnetic tape strip most of mine have.

As for what sizes I have and use.
8"-14" torpedo levels, good for picture hanging, aligning outlets, small stuff.
24", I use this for door lintels because I don't have a proper jamber set.
48", aligning shelves, etc.
72", bigger shelves, and for jambs (again, because I don't have a proper jamber set)

I will say that a 72" level is adequate for door jambs (you don't absolutely need a 78"), but a 48" is NOT.

 

[pcmeiners]

"My house is 200 years old so the only thing level in the house is the water."

Mine is only 112 years old, entire house is 2" down to the right; during Sandy it went the other way, about 1" to the left for a month, guess it had something to do with the 8 feet of water in the house.

 

[Pig In A Poke]

There is a huge difference in quality v. cheap pretenders. Crick levels are best and will last generations.

Here

 

[Know Wosad]

Here's a cool plan.1" x 2.5" 6061 T-6 in various lengths and this
Mill slots for effect !
Make sure the two by four(1.** x 3.**) is good when "leveling". LOL

 

[FMC1959]

Funny, that search got 3 results, this thread being one of them.
Also only 3 ads.

I just did this search and got this
http://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&r...94551203&action=devloc&q=stabila+level+versus

My search defaults using Google.CA, which might make a difference. I did this search a week ago, pretty the exact same parameters and there were more Sola responses. The link above from my search a few minutes ago has the first 3 with Sola, then the rest a bit of all the popular brands, BUT curiously enough, not this thread (I only scrolled down about 25-30 responses)

I have 4 Empire True Blue, a Stanley, and a few lesser brands. The Empires and Stanley are just as accurate and effective as my Stabila and Sola, but the latter two feel more solid and I always reach for them first. They all have lifetime guarantees, but that is usually for the vials. None will guarantee a fall that loses their straight edge or similar accident or abuse.

I have a 72 Empire which was great, but since I got my 78 Sola, I use the Sola for measuring level, and the Empire more for screeding. I just love the feel and visibility on the Stabila and Sola

 

[Kilgore Trout]

Thanks for all of the replies. It looks like the sola levels (at least the big red) are the same cost as stabila, particularly in sets (singles are a bit cheaper). so, the question is really on sizes.

Any other thoughts on most useful size?

 

[77Mini]

I use may 24" and 48" all the time. Picked up a 72" recently that should come in handy now and then.

 

[davethorik]

I do a lot of home repair and find my 48" to be most used. It's the basic Johnson I beam extrusion, gold in color, bought at TSC for $24. It was the most accurate of all the levels in the display when I was in the store.

I also have an Empire True Blue 24" that is a bit thicker of an extrusion, it was once again the best of about 16 on display at HD.

I have one of the HD $5 Empire torpedo levels, it's ok but the magnet is a joke. Feels cheap, duh. Then I had to make a trip to Ace Hardware to buy c-clips, and found an aluminum bodied Johnson with glow in the dark vial surrounds and neodymium magnets, freaking love that thing. Once again, I got best out of 6.

I don't see the need to spend a lot because my tools see abuse at hands of coworkers and sometimes customers. I always buy levels in person and choose best of group. I'm not fun to go level shopping with lol

 

[KnurledNut]

You'll get a lot of versatility with a 48 and a 72.

Don't discount the 80a-2 series. They are basic and accurate.

 

[ADSR]

48" is the bread and butter of the trade. Start there, and add more later.

 

[FMC1959]

Of your 3 combo sizes in your first post; a 78 is great to have but if you are have to just 2 levels, eliminate the 36/78. The other 2 combos, the 48 & 59 are very close and either will do well. So it comes down to the shorter level in each combo and the 16 is a better choice.

These choices become very personal but I feel that with a 16/48 combo you have the most bases covered.

 

[T45]

What do you guys do to test levels?

Are there some good advice/tips that are reliable and repeatable? Is it safe to mail order levels, even good ones//?

Sorry for the newb queston on this.

 

[FMC1959]

What do you guys do to test levels?

Are there some good advice/tips that are reliable and repeatable? Is it safe to mail order levels, even good ones//?

Sorry for the newb queston on this.

I have ordered many through the mail and no problems yet.

The easiest test to check if your level is measuring correct is to put it on any flat surface, even if it is not perfectly level, as long as it is flat. Then flip it, the reading should be identical, if not the vials are off.

 

[Kilgore Trout]

Everyone,

Thanks for the opinions. I went ahead an ordered a 48 inch Sola since it was about 25% cheaper than the 48/16 stabila combo and I figured I didn't need the 16. I can always pick up a 24 down the road if need be. I've got a 24 inch stanley already, but it definitely isn't level anymore - I used it to set some posts on a garden fence that are visibly not perpendicular to the ground. Then again it was ten bucks and it has been getting abused for about 10 years.

Amazon delivers it tomorrow, so we shall see if it comes in level.

 

[strutaeng]

Well, I don't have anything new...

I used cheap cheap $5 Stanley I beam when I was just learning home repairs.

I worked doing ADA surveys and we used only Digital Stabilas, as selected by our architects.

For basihome rrapairs, I have an arsenal of Empire box levels. Stay in the Stabila, Empire, Johnson, Jewish family and are Golden.

Stay out of the cheap I beam and you will be happy.

Good luck

 

[timbitca]

I'm not a huge fan of wood levels but I love old metal ones.

My go-to level is my Grandfather's 50's-60's 24" level, thing is heavy as heck and still bang on accurate. I also have his old torpedo level that is just as accurate, though pretty cheaply made (Japan). I bought a 4' Stanley last summer on sale at Canadian Tire, does what it's supposed to do...

I also picked up a cast iron 18" Stanley at a yard sale earlier this summer, unfortunately it is missing a vial which I hope to be able to replace eventually, it's got a lot of surface rust and a few different coats of paint on parts of it. Normally I like to keep the patina on my older tools but this one I will eventually wire wheel and paint. The good thing about it is that if someone ever attacks me in the garage I can use it as a weapon, it's so freaking heavy.

 

[TomB19]

I either use my 2 foot or my 4 foot most of the time.

Me too. The only time I use a 72" level is when I'm installing a door.

Mine is the DeWalt with magnets. I will never use the magnets. I should have gone for the cheaper version without magnets but que sera, sera.

I've only found magnets to be useful on torpedo levels when I install conduit.

 

[TomB19]

I've got a 24 inch stanley already, but it definitely isn't level anymore - I used it to set some posts on a garden fence that are visibly not perpendicular to the ground.

If I owned that level, I would try to calibrate the plum level and, if I couldn't calibrate it, I'd either smash out the spirit vile or throw out the level. An inaccurate level is worse than not owning a level.

BTW, you can check for calibration by placing it on a stable surface, check the reading, and then rotate it 180 degrees. If the reading is identical, it is calibrated.

 

[Kilgore Trout]

So, the new sola level showed up today. Wow. What a nice piece of equipment! Tested it for "level" and it was spot on. Plus it has a very nice heft to it and the vials are super easy to read.

I'm a big fan. There is something about well made products that is just satisfying to hold. It makes my stanley level feel like a toy.

 

[Outlander]

Nothing I build is straighter than a box store level can measure. Everything is "special"

 

[sberry]

I am not that fussy, I think about 30$ buys a 48 that is ok. I tried a couple super cheap things and they knocked out easy. I like a magnet strip.
I am not building daily and my eye is super good so I dont need it fine, something not straight is super obvious to me, I am amazed sometimes how little it is once its measured but I notice it.

 

[Pig In A Poke]

Get a board longer than your level.
Put a screw in each end of the board approximately an inch in from the ends of the level.
Use one side of the level and adjust the screw in/out until the center vial reads level.
Flip over the level end over end and check the other side vial.
If both read the same the level is good.

My crick levels have survived 16 years of masonry work and a couple of 15-25 ft drops thanks to laborers. All three are still straight.

 

[PugetDude]

12"
24"
48"
Unless you are hanging doors for a living...

The new Empire True Blue Levels are a good choice, excellent value for a high-quality homeowner grade level.

Flame on, Stabila fanboys, flame on!

 

[PugetDude]

I have ordered many through the mail and no problems yet.

The easiest test to check if your level is measuring correct is to put it on any flat surface, even if it is not perfectly level, as long as it is flat. Then flip it, the reading should be identical, if not the vials are off.

If I owned that level, I would try to calibrate the plum level and, if I couldn't calibrate it, I'd either smash out the spirit vile or throw out the level. An inaccurate level is worse than not owning a level.

BTW, you can check for calibration by placing it on a stable surface, check the reading, and then rotate it 180 degrees. If the reading is identical, it is calibrated.

Get a board longer than your level.
Put a screw in each end of the board approximately an inch in from the ends of the level.
Use one side of the level and adjust the screw in/out until the center vial reads level.
Flip over the level end over end and check the other side vial.
If both read the same the level is good.

My crick levels have survived 16 years of masonry work and a couple of 15-25 ft drops thanks to laborers. All three are still straight.

What do you call a level that can't be calibrated?
........
........
........
........ a concrete screed.