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50 amp to 110V adapter?

sberry

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Another way to "roll your own"

Bussman SCY on 4" work box;

Capture1.JPG Capture2.JPG

Bolt a second 4" box on the back with two 5-20R.



I will leave the details of how to connect the 10 gauge wire from the 50A plug to the fuse/switch/outlet up to the experts.
Where did the 10 wire come from? But they make that assembly with no switch and a recept
 
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Sal Bandini

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It has a breaker, this is true but it cant be plugged in to 50A service. The cord is too small, it needs to be a number 12.
We built a cooler on a truck. The mechanic used some 16 cord for a couple controls and the unit pulls about 10A or so. I used a 12 cord to it and wanted to use it on welder circuits so we added a couple 20A breakers, to protect the cord ahead from over load but also to cover the smaller control wires and I don't recall what the supply wire was for the unit, I believe 14 @ 20, maybe 30, don't recall but this is similar, we wanted to be able to connect smaller loads and wires to a 50A circuit. We had to add additional protection and a cord capable of short circuit for 50.

14ga is all that's required for 15A.

I know it can't be plugged into 50A. Everyone keeps saying you need a breaker, well here it is. Of course you have to put adapter plug on the end.

At this point OP is probably looking at Milwaukee M18 line.
 

Falcon67

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Well - yes, technically. Practically - how hard will it be to connect a 50A load to a 15A 120V receptacle. A cheap azz socket is probably going to fry before a 20a breaker trips anyhow. If was going to run a drill or a skill saw a couple of times at a remote with a 50A 120V socket I'd think nothing of whipping up a jump cord to just get it done. If it was an on going thing, like for building something large or working in a shed on the property - then yea, convert to a small breaker box.
 
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Voi

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At this point OP is probably looking at Milwaukee M18 line.

Lol. I was already looking at M18 line.

I got very lucky and found an electrician who was going to be doing work in the area. As such I was able to avoid the driving time charge and the second labor charge.

Ended up with two 20 amp, GFCI protected circuits wired to my pedestal for about 50% more than what the adapters would've cost me.

Interestingly enough he had an arsenal of Milwaukee Fuel 12v and 18v tools. He raved about the full sized reciprocating saw.
 

sberry

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Lol. I was already looking at M18 line.

I got very lucky and found an electrician who was going to be doing work in the area. As such I was able to avoid the driving time charge and the second labor charge.

Ended up with two 20 amp, GFCI protected circuits wired to my pedestal for about 50% more than what the adapters would've cost me.

Interestingly enough he had an arsenal of Milwaukee Fuel 12v and 18v tools. He raved about the full sized reciprocating saw.
The original post really didn't include that this was somewhat an idea to work around putting in a recept to a service you actually owned which was a real solution vs at least a good portion of half baked ways to do it.
Stupid of us not to extract basic info as simple as there is a breaker space available. Duh
 
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Voi

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The original post really didn't include that this was somewhat an idea to work around putting in a recept to a service you actually owned.

I mentioned that the pedestal was at our lease and the idea of wiring a receptacle to the post. Sorry if that wasn't complete enough. I was still interested to hear about the adaptors.
 

sberry

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I probably didn't read it well enough. The discussion about adapters is good though as it does bring up a lot of points which are obviously over looked in circuit design especially by the diy crowd and seeing some of the responses its obvious we got a ways to go.
 
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