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Dewalt keyless chuck - am I missing something?

ynned

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I have a Dewalt XRP 18v cordless. The clutch is slipping badly, and I see online that the parts are available. So again online, every instruction I can find refers to a set (locking) screw inside the chuck at its base. Mine does not have a screw. I've tried unscrewing the chuck itself using a large Allen wrench chucked in and hitting with a hammer (not real vigorously).
As the title asks, am I missing something? Anyone else encountered this?
 
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Know Wosad

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Open the jaws. The retainer is down inside. Left hand thread. I don't recall if its Allen or Torx
 

koditten

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Its an allen head.

I'm betting that you have rounded out the internal hex. When you chuck up a drill bit smaller than 7/32, the bit shank will fit inside the allen head bolt. If you use the bits with flat sides, the flats will round out the inside of the allen head bolt.

Its happened to me twice. Both times I had to use a thin disc and slice off the chuck from the shaft of the drill motor. Major pain.

In addition, if the screw had been removed, yet the chuck was still solidly attached to the drill motor shaft, You have to really whack the heck out of the allen wrench chucked in the drill. Hit that wrench with a hammer like it owes you money!
 

B_Bimmer

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I had an air drill once where every source said there should be a retainer, there was not and once I got it off I found there never had been. Most do have something though, and depending on how tight you make your bits they can be pretty chewed up.
 
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ynned

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Its an allen head.

I'm betting that you have rounded out the internal hex. When you chuck up a drill bit smaller than 7/32, the bit shank will fit inside the allen head bolt. If you use the bits with flat sides, the flats will round out the inside of the allen head bolt.

Its happened to me twice. Both times I had to use a thin disc and slice off the chuck from the shaft of the drill motor. Major pain.

In addition, if the screw had been removed, yet the chuck was still solidly attached to the drill motor shaft, You have to really whack the heck out of the allen wrench chucked in the drill. Hit that wrench with a hammer like it owes you money!

There isn't a depression. The bottom of the chuck is flat and shiny. I've scraped it with a number of small picks and scrapers.
You think just whack the hell out of it? Assuming no locking screw, are the threads of the main chuck left or right (backwards or forewards)?
 

LB-1911

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It ain't there. I've scraped and cleaned looking for it. It ain't there.

There isn't a depression. The bottom of the chuck is flat and shiny. I've scraped it with a number of small picks and scrapers.
You think just whack the hell out of it? Assuming no locking screw, are the threads of the main chuck left or right (backwards or forewards)?

:dunno:

N422782 Conversion Kit #12
This kit is used to replace the special chucks without a chuck screw. Includes a chuck, screw and a spindle/shaft.


Which I guess is what you have -
629828-00SV Chuck and Spindle Assembly
Part Number: 629828-00SV #35

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/dewalt-dc925-type-hammer-drill-parts-c- 1009_9661_3871.html


Replace Dewalt dc901 chuck with upgraded kit
Was unable to remove the chuck using a vise to cut off the chuck and shaft with a cutoff tool which exposed the three screws retaining the collar and old shaft. Only took a few minutes to reassemble with the new parts. Very simple to install. New chuck is a much better design.

Repair Stories
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/conversion-kit-p-225192.html
 
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rlitman

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I had an air drill once where every source said there should be a retainer, there was not and once I got it off I found there never had been. Most do have something though, and depending on how tight you make your bits they can be pretty chewed up.

Retainer screws only serve a purpose on a reversible drill. Was your pneumatic drill reversible?

...You think just whack the hell out of it?...

I've had luck using an impact wrench. I have a T60 socket that most chucks can grab tightly, and then I can pulse the trigger on an impact wrench in reverse. Beats the heck out of beating on an allen key.
 
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rlitman

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I guess I wasn't clear. The reversible question was in reference to B_Bimmer's pneumatic drill, because many pneumatic drills are not reversible. I know your cordless Dewalt is reversible, which is why I'm surprised to hear it does not have a keeper screw.
 

zmaxmotorsports

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I had an 18v dewalt a while back that had nothing but problems with the chuck from the say I bought it,I think the stupid screw fell out 2nd or 3rd day after I had it.
So I got pissed off and bought anot her Milwaukee set since I used to have decent luck with them,they've gone down hill in the quality department also over the years.
So now I've got a brushless 20v dewalt hammer drill and impact combo,let's see how long it lasts me.:dunno::lol:
 
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ynned

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I guess I wasn't clear. The reversible question was in reference to B_Bimmer's pneumatic drill, because many pneumatic drills are not reversible. I know your cordless Dewalt is reversible, which is why I'm surprised to hear it does not have a keeper screw.

Obviously I didn't read your post very thoroughly. You clearly stated pneumatic drill. Sorry for the confusion.
 

neophyte

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Not all hand drills have a retaining screw.

Retaining screws are usually common on older USA made drills, and are still common on some drills made by US companies, but the screws aren't always standard. The screw head type can also vary if the drill has a retaining screw. I've seen hex head screws, slot head screws, and phillips screws, used to retain different drill chucks, or included with replacement chucks.

Also, not all drills or drill chucks are manufactured to use a retaining screw. In Europe it seems more common that drills do not use a retaining screw. I've seen drills from Fein, Metabo, and AEG that didn't use a retaining screw, even when the drills were reversible. When the drills don't use a retaining screw, the drill chuch is usually secured with threadlocker on the threaded shaft. In this case you would hsve to tighten the chuck in a vise, and run the drill in reverse on low gear, to remove the chuck, or tighten a large hex key in the chuck, and tighten the hex key in a vise, to unscrew the chuck. Be carefull not to break your wrist in the process.

Some drills, particularly European made ones may also use a tapered shaft rather than a threaded shaft. I'm not sure how common this is, but some Fein drills are still manufactured with a tapered spindle, and I know some older UK made Black & Decker drills were manufactured with tapered shafts as well.


Some of the Dewalt XRP drills originally came with a German made Rohm Supra type chuck that were not designed or made with a thru hole for a retaining screw. These drills had the chuck bonded on with dome type of threadlocker. I'mnot sure how the hammer and hex key method works to remove these chucks. You may have to use the vise method.
 
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ynned

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Not all hand drills have a retaining screw.

Retaining screws are usually common on older USA made drills, and are still common on some drills made by US companies, but the screws aren't always standard. The screw head type can also vary if the drill has a retaining screw. I've seen hex head screws, slot head screws, and phillips screws, used to retain different drill chucks, or included with replacement chucks.

Also, not all drills or drill chucks are manufactured to use a retaining screw. In Europe it seems more common that drills do not use a retaining screw. I've seen drills from Fein, Metabo, and AEG that didn't use a retaining screw, even when the drills were reversible. When the drills don't use a retaining screw, the drill chuch is usually secured with threadlocker on the threaded shaft. In this case you would hsve to tighten the chuck in a vise, and run the drill in reverse on low gear, to remove the chuck, or tighten a large hex key in the chuck, and tighten the hex key in a vise, to unscrew the chuck. Be carefull not to break your wrist in the process.

Some drills, particularly European made ones may also use a tapered shaft rather than a threaded shaft. I'm not sure how common this is, but some Fein drills are still manufactured with a tapered spindle, and I know some older UK made Black & Decker drills were manufactured with tapered shafts as well.


Some of the Dewalt XRP drills originally came with a German made Rohm Supra type chuck that were not designed or made with a thru hole for a retaining screw. These drills had the chuck bonded on with dome type of threadlocker. I'mnot sure how the hammer and hex key method works to remove these chucks. You may have to use the vise method.

Thanks. The shaft threads then are right hand?
 

neophyte

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Thanks. The shaft threads then are right hand?

The threads on the drill shaft are designed to tighten when the drill is run in forward, ie. Clockwise when the chuck is facing away from you. If the chuck is fixed in a vise, or a hex key is fixed in the chuck, and the chuck fixed in a vise, you can run the drill in reverse to unscrew the chuck. Alternately you could try just twisting the drill counter-clockwise. If the chuck has never been removed it might be on very tight. Very tight could be a loud crack when the chuck brakes loose, or it could be the drill trying to tear your vise of the top of your workbench. Be carefull of your wrist, some drills have enough torque to break or dislocate your wrist. Unfortunately the Dewalt drill doesn't sppear to have flats on the spindle shank to accomodate a second wrench like some other drills I've used.
 
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ynned

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Thanks. The shaft threads then are right hand?

Yes. Putting the forward/reverse switch in the center position locks the drill, then an 18" pipe wrench turned the chuck off with no drama.
Thanks to everyone for their help.
 
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ynned

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The threads on the drill shaft are designed to tighten when the drill is run in forward, ie. Clockwise when the chuck is facing away from you. If the chuck is fixed in a vise, or a hex key is fixed in the chuck, and the chuck fixed in a vise, you can run the drill in reverse to unscrew the chuck. Alternately you could try just twisting the drill counter-clockwise. If the chuck has never been removed it might be on very tight. Very tight could be a loud crack when the chuck brakes loose, or it could be the drill trying to tear your vise of the top of your workbench. Be carefull of your wrist, some drills have enough torque to break or dislocate your wrist. Unfortunately the Dewalt drill doesn't sppear to have flats on the spindle shank to accomodate a second wrench like some other drills I've used.

Since the clutch is not gripping properly, the drill will not turn hard enough to break the chuck loose. Heck, it'll hardly set a drywall screw flush in a pine board. I was able to get it with a pipe wrench, though.
Thanks.
 

B_Bimmer

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My pneumatic without a screw was also reversible. I have also salvaged a good chuck off a old black and Decker cordless drill that had no retaining screw. Most do have them, I was just pointing out that some don't. Most times I have found that the ones that do not have a screw are more of a pain than the ones that do. I realize that you could risk gear damage, but has anyone ever tried removing a chuck with an impact? I almost think that would work well.

Glad you got it without slicing off the spindle.
 

LS6 Tommy

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At this point if it was one of the $199.00, 18 volt units, I'd replace the drill. Yours is a bit more spendy...

Tommy
 
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