Above 1200 Sq/FT Cleaning Up My Shop

[oldironfarmer]

Rain last night! Water, the ultimate leveler, slab base looks ok.

The existing exterior wall at the far end will have the sheet metal removed, but there is insulation underneath so that needs to wait. But the new slab will come right to the bottom of the steel, so I need to remove the lower couple of inches to give the finishers room to work. You can see the top of the new form on the left, and can't see the concrete the slab will abut.

Here is the other end. New form on right, this last sheet was a little shorter. These sheets were reused several years ago when we closed in the north 20 ft of the west shed to make a planer room. You can see where the concrete came under the forms for that floor. The new slab will be just above the bottom of the old form.

This morning I marked out the elevation to cut the tin and sawed it off. Really nasty work in the wet and almost too close to the grade to cut. But, got it done!

You can see the old form line and new top of form almost line up. I would rather there was more overlap, but this will work.

Inside the shed the floor mismatch is worse. It's hard to get a picture of both elevations.

The existing floor is about three inches lower than the threshold on the white door. The new floor, on this side of the wall will be about the elevation of the bottom of the ragged concrete under the door.

The wildfire that burned my shop in '88 or so (I really don't remember), left me with a 24x60 floor. The shop I had built was 24x60 with two 20 ft sheds, making it 64x60. It was timber framed with 1x12 oak siding, built in '85/'86. After the fire I was working too much to rebuild, so I cleaned up and hired the current pole barn built on the existing slab. I had it built 30x60 with standard 15 ft pole barn sheds so the new poles would not match the old pole foundations. That left me a 3 ft gap on each side of the slab to the wall (old 24, new 30).

I poured the gap without rebar knowing it was at the edge of the slab and would not have any real load on it. The ragged edges you see are where the forms and soil under the edge of the new pole barn were filled in from the inside. The 3 ft pour has held up well.

Here's a view of the concrete strip inside that door, the new concrete (1990) is whiter than the old slab that burned.

 

[oldironfarmer]

I need a curb on top of the new slab to cover the base of the old adjacent slab. I have stewed over how to accomplish that, thinking I would build a low concrete block or brick wall, but being concerned over water seepage through a joint. The building is on a high point, but ground water could be present in wet periods. If I build a block wall, I have to hand mix and pour the space behind it full. This morning as I was cutting the sheet metal off the outside wall, I decided to form a curb wall for the concrete finisher pour monolithically with the slab.

That required cutting the bottom of 40 ft of sheet metal to above the top of curb elevation. I picked the top of curb to be the bottom of the existing wall sill plate (bottom treated nailer).

Marked it off and cut. Have to wear ear plugs, face shield, welding gloves, and jacket, it was about like welding on a hot day with high humidity. Had to stop twice to cool off but it is done.

Going to use a 2x8 for the curb form, making it 7" high. This will cover and fill in the gaps under the existing slab edges. I plan to hang the form from the wall, toenailing it to the bottom treated 2x6 and the next nailer up. Last thing I did today was make seven braces to accomplish that (the seventh one is outside for test fit).

The braces should space the form 5 inches from the existing wall.

 

[Bigdukaaa]

The other thing I dug out of the chicken coop from history was my old bud's parts washer. he had told me years ago to use it, he wasn't going to, but I had my yellow bucket (which is portable).

That's the brush hanging from a wire on the rim. Same yellow bucket since about 1990.

Here is his old parts washer

Remember it has been in storage since 1982 or so, that's what, 34 years? Older than some posters here

So today in my effort to clean I needed to move it, it was right in my way. So I cleaned out the corner where I wanted to put it, moved it there, and since it was clean inside, I put some diesel in it.

Plugged it in, turned on the switch, and nothing. Who says "If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem, mate!"? Well, I rattled it by switching several times fast and it started working

Dirty switch. Why would a switch get dirty in 400 months?

I know, GJ decorum is replace the switch, clean up the box, repair the broken lid stay, repaint (or powder coat), and install casters. Maybe even paint the raw sheetrock behind the unit But NOOOOOO! I had to get it out of the way and keep cleaning I'll fix it right later, after I wipe it off

I did sweep under it first

Its not older than me. Nice place

 

[oldironfarmer]

Its not older than me. Nice place

Thanks for the visit!

 

[oldironfarmer]

This morning we had an inch of rain in an hour. Flooded the pad under the plastic but it drained out quickly.

But I was working inside the shelter so I was able to get the curb form supports up.

The 2x8 form is not yet up, I got distracted by an opportunity to buy a K.O. Lee S718 manual surface grinder. Went and looked at it, loaded, and hauled it home. Sucker is heavy, maybe 1,000#, 7"x18" grinding capability. This picture is in the seller's shop (clean )

 

[1/2 Cup]

Andy, just what you don't want is that mush rain at this point glad to hear it drained well.

Great score on the Surface Grinder I might add.

Regards

 

[Terrick down Under]

A, I used to work a Jones and Shipman about the same size when I worked at the Royal Australian Mint. Lovely precise machines, I am jealous.

 

[oldironfarmer]

Andy, just what you don't want is that mush rain at this point glad to hear it drained well.

Great score on the Surface Grinder I might add.

Regards

Don't know how bad I needed the rain or the grinder, but went ahead and got both anyway. Grinder cost me $600 but I think it is in pretty good shape, and should come in handy occasionally. One of those things that nothing else quite fills the bill when needed.

A, I used to work a Jones and Shipman about the same size when I worked at the Royal Australian Mint. Lovely precise machines, I am jealous.

Thanks for the visit and comment! If you'd care to drop by I could use some operating pointers.

The seller was a previous employee of mine at an engineering company. Super nice guy, but has been out of work for a couple of months (oil business, anybody notice petrol is down a little?). He had been trying to sell the grinder for several years, and while I'm building on my shop to ease congestion, what better time to add equipment?

 

[oldironfarmer]

Sucker is heavy, over 1,000# I guess, just a little guy. Got it temporarily set in place.

Needs to be oiled down pending cleanup when I run out of other things to do.

 

[BUGTHUG]

what do the curb supports do?

 

[oldironfarmer]

what do the curb supports do?

My new floor is about 10" below my adjacent old floor. The old floor is 6", but it has strips of concrete down each side which are from 6" to 4" thick. The curb is to bring the edge of the new floor up high enough to cover the bottom of the adjacent concrete. The curb supports are to hold a 2x8 form 5" from the wall, suspended with it's bottom at the new floor elevation so when we pour the new floor we can also pour a curb tied into it so there will be solid concrete abutting the existing floor.

Thanks for the question and visit!

 

[oldironfarmer]

Tore in to the new surface grinder today. I knew the belt was broken which does the longitudinal table travel, didn't know the elevation crank support casting was broken.

One more thing to fix.

The magnetic chuck is a good brand though!

Hard to beat Brown & Sharpe in anything.

Didn't know how to remove the broken belt so I rigged up to the table and lifted it off with my engine hoist. Ways on the base look good, to me, but I'm sure no expert.

The top is floating, not resting on the base like it looks. The 5/8" bar I picked up to lift with was bent so it worked out perfectly.

A few scratches in the base but no real significant wear I could make out without a straight edge.

The bottom of the table, however, didn't look so good. Rust on the exposed ends and several nicks. Glad the belt was broken so I wasn't cranking it back and forth scoring the ways. I'm guessing a previous owner took the table off and nicked it up not lifting carefully (it's heavy, I'm lucky I was alone, with two people we might have drug it across and nicked it).

I stoned the ways on the bottom of the table to remove nicks. They cleaned up pretty quickly.

Looking for any suggestions. I don't have a reference straight edge, and probably won't acquire one unless I put it back together and don't get good results. It is also missing the nut to secure the grinding wheel, and four of eight oil slingers are broken so I need to buy or make them.

 

[Vieux]

This is really great job! I like your workshop, your equipment. Subscribe to the topic, I will follow the updates.

 

[Terrick down Under]

A, looking pretty good there! from what I can see here, the bed seems to have done a lot of short repartition work. You should be able to clean the bed down and polish out the ends and it should work well. We had one J&S that did a lot of 2" stock and thus was worn ion the centre but the rest of the bed was really good.
From your first pic of upside down, it looks pretty good as you can still see the mottling on the slide.
I wish I was closer to help out.
Big thing, patience, and if you don't want to work on it then DON'T.

 

[egnorant]

Love the new project. Now you know the appeal of the "new clean space"!

It was kinda hard for me to get my first project going because it didn't fit my initial vision of where I was going with my shop.

Looks like you are having fun!

Bruce

 

[oldironfarmer]

This is really great job! I like your workshop, your equipment. Subscribe to the topic, I will follow the updates.

Thanks for the visit and kind words! I'm hoping ot make my shop much better, not just more of the same

A, looking pretty good there! from what I can see here, the bed seems to have done a lot of short repartition work. You should be able to clean the bed down and polish out the ends and it should work well. We had one J&S that did a lot of 2" stock and thus was worn ion the centre but the rest of the bed was really good.
From your first pic of upside down, it looks pretty good as you can still see the mottling on the slide.
I wish I was closer to help out.
Big thing, patience, and if you don't want to work on it then DON'T.

Good observations. My inspection of it really does not show more wear in the middle than at the ends, by very much. The color on the ways was all from sitting in the same position with a broken belt for several years, don't know how many. Found out today it is a late 80's serial number, and I'm pretty sure it has been unused for ten years or longer. I need to look for an accurate straight edge and see if it has wear.

Ordered missing pieces and a grinding wheel today. the belt was a common timing belt

Really wish you were closer!

Love the new project. Now you know the appeal of the "new clean space"!

It was kinda hard for me to get my first project going because it didn't fit my initial vision of where I was going with my shop.

Looks like you are having fun!

Bruce

Thanks for the visit and advice! I really didn't need the grinder to work on right now, but it was the right deal and since it is in the A/C I can work on it during breaks from the sauna. I am having fun

 

[oldironfarmer]

Bent some rebar today to reinforce the curb and tie it in to the floor.

Made a Z, 6 inch offset, legs 90 degrees, to tie in to the floor rebar and top run in the curb.

Done with the curb forms and reinforcement. I'm really ready for the concrete guys! Rebar off the chairs until they're ready to pour.aving the

 

[bdbecker]

...the belt was a common timing belt...

That is great news! Too often, there's always that oddball part that is no longer available and impossible to find, glad it worked out for you.

 

[Lyndon]

Andy

You're doing some great stuff, and it wearing me out watching.

Keep up the fantastic posts.

Lyndon
Tired from all the looking.....

 

[oldironfarmer]

That is great news! Too often, there's always that oddball part that is no longer available and impossible to find, glad it worked out for you.

It is good to get original parts, I guess I could make everything except for the belt. I did ask about the broken casting, they said it was not available, it will weld. Thanks for the comment!

Andy

You're doing some great stuff, and it wearing me out watching.

Keep up the fantastic posts.

Lyndon
Tired from all the looking.....

I don't know, I'm just impatient right now, want to get on with the framing and get a building up. Measured the potential side walls and I think I can get 8'-4" in the new addition, that should be enough to get a full eight foot door in. Now that reminds me, need to add a board to the form to get a step down for the bottom of the new doors.

Thanks for the visit

 

[oldironfarmer]

Worked on the roof today. My shop is a traditional pole barn, built about 1990. I really don't remember exactly, but it was before screws were routinely used. At about 26 years of age, I have had several roof leaks. For the most part I have fixed them as they show up, but some are hard to find outside. Nails that have backed out are easy. Sometimes the nail went in a little crooked and the neoprene washer does not seal completely. It took me awhile to figure that out, looking at the nail heads from standing up, they can look OK. Here is an example of one.

That does not look like a leak source at first, but it certainly is. I have sealed obvious ones with roofing tar, but it does not last too long unprotected from the sun. A few places where the installers left nail holes or damage in the roof I repaired with roofing tar covered by a small piece of roof metal screwed to the metal underneath. Didn't get a picture of one of those

Yesterday I bought a water based paintable tar which will accept a topcoat from the same manufacturer. I spent two hours coating suspect nails in leak areas, then continued coating all nails until I got too hot.

Also sealed the holes in the shed side where I found the rotted purlin and added a new one.

Also started painting the corner trim that has rusted. Only rusted on the top, not on the face I can see from the ground. Very sneaky that rust.

Now I need a good rain so I can check for leaks inside before I topcoat the spot patches.

 

[NedNorton]

Andy,
Just used up all my GJ reading time over the last two days reading it from the start. Wow. Just, wow. You have a load of projects ahead of you and it's great to see that you have the energy, physical and emotional, to get it done.

I was thinking about chiming in on material storage or something like that and then I realized that anything I could add would probably be on to small a scale to be of much help. Makes my "little" shop rebuild look, well... little.

You have such a great space, gotten so much done in such a short time and, I'm in for the ride. Subscribed!

Cheers,
Chris

 

[oldironfarmer]

Andy,
Just used up all my GJ reading time over the last two days reading it from the start. Wow. Just, wow. You have a load of projects ahead of you and it's great to see that you have the energy, physical and emotional, to get it done.

I was thinking about chiming in on material storage or something like that and then I realized that anything I could add would probably be on to small a scale to be of much help. Makes my "little" shop rebuild look, well... little.

You have such a great space, gotten so much done in such a short time and, I'm in for the ride. Subscribed!

Cheers,
Chris

Well, thanks for the visit and the comments! Actually I have been enjoying reading your thread. I like the concept "one wall, one cabinet, one fixture at a time" I've been using that for encouragement. I get overwhelmed trying to eat the elephant in one bite.

I came to a realization today, everything in it's place, I have never had a place for every thing. My challenge is to try to figure out how to create a place for everything (of course, weeding out the things I can't have a place for) This was while I was bringing home a granite reference plate to use in conjunction with my new surface grinder, neither of which I have an immediate use for. Am I seeing a pattern?

 

[oldironfarmer]

These are beside an old building on my place, I'm not sure what the proper name is, but my MIL called them "naked ladies", so that's what we call them.

Now, tell me, who doesn't like naked ladies? Even in the weeds?

 

[Guster]

Tore in to the new surface grinder today. I knew the belt was broken which does the longitudinal table travel, didn't know the elevation crank support casting was broken.

Nice score on the grinder. No deep gouges on the table and not the dirtiest machine if seen - might have had an easy life to date. Never seen one with a belt like that before either - learnt something new. Looks like it took a bump on the handwheel. You could weld or braze that but it looks like an easy enough part to machine or fabricate with weldments.

 

[oldironfarmer]

Nice score on the grinder. No deep gouges on the table and not the dirtiest machine if seen - might have had an easy lift to date. Never seen one with a belt like that before either - learnt something new. Looks like it took a bump on the handwheel. You could weld or braze that but it looks like an easy enough part to machine or fabricate with weldments.

Thanks for the visit and comments. Apparently the grinder is late 80's so not all that old. I saw a comment somewhere about the disadvantage of a rack and pinion drive on a grinder - unavoidable backlash. The toothed belt drive has an easy tensioning device (screw to tighten the end clamp block holding the belt) so if the belt is stretched a little, there should be no backlash. Guess I need to look for reasons the belt broke.

I plan to just weld the bracket. I should be able to clamp it to maintain alignment and not worry about a full penetration weld. It cannot see much load, it seems it would have to have been broken by a bump like you said. I'll try not to bump it

 

[larry_g]

Looking at the broken casting I would try bolting it back together. Run a tap drill into the end of the casting~1" past the crack. Follow that with a clearance drill just an 1/16" or so past the crack. Spot face the hole and then tap the section beyond the crack. Install a SHCS of the proper length. I can't tell from the picture if two or four bolts would work. I'd guess that two 5/16" ones would do the job.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Lyndon]

These are beside an old building on my place, I'm not sure what the proper name is, but my MIL called them "naked ladies", so that's what we call them.

Now, tell me, who doesn't like naked ladies? Even in the weeds?

Andy

We also have "naked ladies" out here. I'm pretty sure my Mother told me that's what they were called.....

This is what they look like now, coming out of winter :

And this is what they look like in late December here :

In between they die back completely. Strange things.....

Lyndon
Who'd think we be talking about naked ladies, and flowers????

 

[egnorant]

Body work on the shop is one of the less exciting parts of improving the space.

I have screws and while trying to fix my roof leaks it seemed that the ones not leaking would start leaking just because I was on the roof looking at them. But the screws and washers were 45 years old. I want it sealed up before I do insulation. Spent 3 days (nights actually because..hot!) on the roof with a bucket of new screws.

Been looking at reflective paint for the roof.

At least your plants are pretty, mine are vicious and well armed.

Bruce

 

[oldironfarmer]

Looking at the broken casting I would try bolting it back together. Run a tap drill into the end of the casting~1" past the crack. Follow that with a clearance drill just an 1/16" or so past the crack. Spot face the hole and then tap the section beyond the crack. Install a SHCS of the proper length. I can't tell from the picture if two or four bolts would work. I'd guess that two 5/16" ones would do the job.

lg
no neat sig line

Thanks for the good idea! I had considered bolting a strap to each side, but your method would be superior and not look so shabby.

I still have to disassemble to see how thick it is. Once it is all apart it may be quicker to just weld it back together. But it is sure good to have a viable option unless it's 1/4" thick or less. Another suggestion was to fabricate a new piece from plate. Decisions, decisions

And thanks for stopping by!

 

[oldironfarmer]

Who'd think we be talking about naked ladies, and flowers????

Never thought I'd have to say this, but your naked ladies look better than mine.

I really, really enjoyed looking at your naked ladies

Thanks for posting pictures of them so everybody could see them.

 

[oldironfarmer]

Body work on the shop is one of the less exciting parts of improving the space.

I have screws and while trying to fix my roof leaks it seemed that the ones not leaking would start leaking just because I was on the roof looking at them. But the screws and washers were 45 years old. I want it sealed up before I do insulation. Spent 3 days (nights actually because..hot!) on the roof with a bucket of new screws.

Been looking at reflective paint for the roof.

At least your plants are pretty, mine are vicious and well armed.

Bruce

Very possible that old washers start to leak with a little movement on the roof. That's a tough job. Are the purlins firm enough to get a good bite with the new screws? Are you done after three days? I hope so. I got on my hay barn roof this morning to seal some areas that have leaked. The cows all stopped eating and watched to see whether I'd fall off. I think they were taking bets. They were disappointed.

 

[NedNorton]

Well, thanks for the visit and the comments! Actually I have been enjoying reading your thread. I like the concept "one wall, one cabinet, one fixture at a time" I've been using that for encouragement. I get overwhelmed trying to eat the elephant in one bite.

I'm excited that someone is taking something from the thread. I have to admit, just opening up the door and getting the first wall done was one of the toughest parts to the entire project. You are way past that stage so in theory, it's all gravy from here. Steve (1/2 Cup) has said, and I'm paraphrasing, "little by little over time makes a lot."

I came to a realization today, everything in it's place, I have never had a place for every thing. My challenge is to try to figure out how to create a place for everything (of course, weeding out the things I can't have a place for) This was while I was bringing home a granite reference plate to use in conjunction with my new surface grinder, neither of which I have an immediate use for. Am I seeing a pattern?

Only thing to say here is... Get a dumpster... Fill it... Then get another... Rinse and repeat.

Seriously though, making storage solutions for all the stuff one has in a shop is paramount and the only way it's going to stay organized.

You are on the right track and making great progress. Keep cranking at it!

Cheers,
Chris

 

[FTWingRiders]

Andy,
What a great read!! Bought back memories growing up, as the old yankee farmer I called Dad had a farm I grew up on that looked very similar to yours..He COULDN"T throw a thing out, somehow I've avoided most of that trait, but I feel it in me sometimes..LOL!! Darn, I miss the ol' guy.. Your knowledge, ingenuity and sense of humor will keep us all reading every update.

Thanks for sharing!!

Forrest

 

[egnorant]

Took more than 3 days! At night some of the errant holes shown like a beacon. I only had 1 hole that didn't hold the new screws (all metal building),l filled a few holes with JB Weld, devined and mutilated a few tree limbs too!

Last check I still had 2 leaks to track down. Now that I have my insulation plan ready with foam panels and spray foam for gaps and edges, I am trying to insure no leaks before I do reflective, elastic, sealing paint on the roof...maybe the sides if money permits.

Just part of the plan to keep stuff out! Heat, critters, plant parts... you know the list!

Hard parts were rust on the man door frame and a spot where a tree fell on the edge of the roof. Lightning hit a pine tree that was across the street and it launched a limb about 100 feet onto my roof!

It really is a little at a time. Sometimes you have a dozen steps before something big happens. Fixing 2 leaks may have me ready to insulate the roof, north wall and west wall, but I still have a man door ,outside compressor slab, redo a couple of 220 circuits, 4 more outside lights and a water line for the south and east wall before insulating.

But I will finish one project (convertible top) so I can drive it to a rod run on Saturday and get a for sale project ready with its convertible top and long list of minor projects.

Something every day...even if it is undoing stuff I did yesterday!

Bruce

 

[oldironfarmer]

Get a dumpster...

I guess getting a dumpster would not be so bad, even filling it, if I could put a roof over it, but the concept of having someone taking my stuff away

I need to go lie down for a few minutes...

Actually, there is never a need to haul stuff off, I have a dump on the farm, a big gully that has been used for more than 50 years. I do find neat old stuff there sometimes and bring it back to the shop. This isn't helping, is it?

 

[oldironfarmer]

Andy,
What a great read!! Bought back memories growing up, as the old yankee farmer I called Dad had a farm I grew up on that looked very similar to yours..He COULDN"T throw a thing out, somehow I've avoided most of that trait, but I feel it in me sometimes..LOL!! Darn, I miss the ol' guy.. Your knowledge, ingenuity and sense of humor will keep us all reading every update.

Thanks for sharing!!

Forrest

Thank you for the kind words.

Mostly kind.



I guess.





Just exactly what do you mean "COULDN'T throw a thing out"? Are you thinking I have a problem? I'll have you know just yesterday as I was unboxing a part I received by mail, I threw out some of the packing material before I stored the box and the bubble wrap. I might start shipping stuff someday and need to save the packaging. And the paper I callously threw away, what if I need it to start a fire? I'd better go retrieve it.

Thanks for the visit!

 

[oldironfarmer]

Took more than 3 days! At night some of the errant holes shown like a beacon. I only had 1 hole that didn't hold the new screws (all metal building),l filled a few holes with JB Weld, devined and mutilated a few tree limbs too!

Last check I still had 2 leaks to track down. Now that I have my insulation plan ready with foam panels and spray foam for gaps and edges, I am trying to insure no leaks before I do reflective, elastic, sealing paint on the roof...maybe the sides if money permits.

Just part of the plan to keep stuff out! Heat, critters, plant parts... you know the list!

Hard parts were rust on the man door frame and a spot where a tree fell on the edge of the roof. Lightning hit a pine tree that was across the street and it launched a limb about 100 feet onto my roof!

It really is a little at a time. Sometimes you have a dozen steps before something big happens. Fixing 2 leaks may have me ready to insulate the roof, north wall and west wall, but I still have a man door ,outside compressor slab, redo a couple of 220 circuits, 4 more outside lights and a water line for the south and east wall before insulating.

But I will finish one project (convertible top) so I can drive it to a rod run on Saturday and get a for sale project ready with its convertible top and long list of minor projects.

Something every day...even if it is undoing stuff I did yesterday!

Bruce

Boy Howdy! Does it all sound familiar!

Best to never ever review everything that yet needs to be done, it can be very discouraging

Working in an old refinery, my partner in crime was a young'ish excellent engineer. We were patching one thing only to have it show up another problem. (Kind of like trying to carry water in rotten burlap bags) Especially in the HF Alkalation Unit and the Platformer Unit (both are octane producers). The enormity of the tasks ahead of us could be debilitating. After a particularly hard but rewarding week, I commented to him "we've got a long ditch, and laying one brick at a time. If we can keep this up, eventually we can stand up with aching backs and actually see a foundation we can build upon". Focus on the task at hand and don't give up. Over three years we were starting to see real reliability improvements when management shut one of the units down because of past reliability concerns. They couldn't see the progress we'd made but those at the working level did and it was very rewarding. And, we could look at the big picture, but when you are selling gasoline, making the octane component is vital to continuing operations, so patching and continuing to produce so long as the company wants it is the name of the game.

Hadn't thought about those things for 25 years. Better get back to work.

 

[oldironfarmer]

Just got a call from my concrete man. They'll be here Tuesday August 16.

How I hate waiting on others! He's a good guy, and getting here as soon as other jobs permit, but I'm two blocked on building until I get the concrete down.

Then, I'll be waiting on me. I can handle that because I can get mean with me and make some progress

Seems like it's been forever but I've only been ready for concrete ten days. Not to bad in the big picture

 

[dlcwent]

Andy, glad to hear the 16th is the day of the pour. I'm sure you're ready for it to happen.

I'll refrain from saying too much about all the naked ladies that have been the topic of conversation on your posts. But as another older guy, I always enjoy viewing a few naked ladies. It will never get old (as I have).