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How to remove concrete from metal siding

Sigo

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Apr 9, 2009
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All,

When my shop was built, the concrete contractor got some concrete on the metal siding that, for the life of me, cannot seem to get off. Some of the concrete is smeared, as though they tried to wipe it off, and the other is splatter. How can I get this off without ruining the finish on the siding? Thanks.
 
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Dirtydan69

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San Tan Valley, AZ
Good luck. i personally don't know of a way without damaging the siding. I received a 3500 credit from my garage builder/concrete guy when then splashed concrete on my brand new attached garage door and my aluminum siding. They sent a guy out to clean it and all he did was make it worse. I then resided my house which cost me 4500. A neighbor backed into my garage door a week later so i wound up with a new garage door.
 

bczygan

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DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
All,

When my shop was built, the concrete contractor got some concrete on the metal siding that, for the life of me, cannot seem to get off. Some of the concrete is smeared, as though they tried to wipe it off, and the other is splatter. How can I get this off without ruining the finish on the siding? Thanks.

The easiest way is to have your lawyer send a letter to the concrete contractor, informing him of the pending lawsuit, if he doesn't have the siding replaced, and compensate you for the lawyers fee.:bounce:

Bill
 
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Sigo

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The easiest way is to have your lawyer send a letter to the concrete contractor, informing him of the pending lawsuit, if he doesn't have the siding replaced, and compensate you for the lawyers fee.:bounce:

Bill

Unfortunately, I'm a little too far down the road to be going back on the builder of his concrete guy. The concrete has been there quite a while (close to a year) and now that I've got a few minutes of breathing room, thought I'd make some improvements to the shop - by starting with some tidying up.
 

jwh

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Aug 10, 2005
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Rochester NY
I helped at a Habitat House about 5 years ago. My project was to get concrete splash off a tub. They gave me something clear to use. Can't remember if it was white vinegar or ammonia for sure, but I think it was the vinegar. Smelled like hell but it worked.

John
 

bczygan

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Unfortunately, I'm a little too far down the road to be going back on the builder of his concrete guy. The concrete has been there quite a while (close to a year) and now that I've got a few minutes of breathing room, thought I'd make some improvements to the shop - by starting with some tidying up.

Most building warranties from the subcontractor to the contractor and from the contractor to the owner are of one year duration.

You are not responsible for warranty work.

You need to be made whole.

I would get this moving ASAP.

Bill
 

oldironfarmer

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Terlton, Oklahoma
Muriatic acid will eat it, and maybe the paint, but you can repaint. It's mild hydrochloric available at home stores and pool supplies. Neutralize with baking soda. chance it may not harm your paint. It will etch your driveway if you don't protect it.
 

PugetDude

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Muriatic acid will eat it, and maybe the paint, but you can repaint. It's mild hydrochloric available at home stores and pool supplies. Neutralize with baking soda. chance it may not harm your paint. It will etch your driveway if you don't protect it.

Try apple cider vinegar before moving up to Muriatic acid.
Don't ask me how I know.
 

ambenz

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.... have your lawyer send a letter to the concrete contractor, informing him of the pending lawsuit,

Not funny...I know you were joking Bill....it is a damn "sue society!" *sigh*

Ya, keep it moist with a cleaner/degreaser that has some mild crossive properties ...take your time until you can get it down to almost the metal finish...then water and Windex...it's good for everything! :bounce:
CPHtWycUkAAPU2J.png
 

bczygan

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Not funny...I know you were joking Bill....it is a damn "sue society!" *sigh*

Ya, keep it moist with a cleaner/degreaser that has some mild crossive properties ...take your time until you can get it down to almost the metal finish...then water and Windex...it's good for everything! :bounce:
CPHtWycUkAAPU2J.png

Actually there was a tiny bit of humor in it, but I'm deadly serious.

It also depends on the contract though. In some imaginary past time, work was done on a handshake and all parties were responsible, and the concrete guy would just man up and do it.

Now, you need good detailed contracts and the ability to enforce them. You have a right to reasonable care. I would call up the GC and let him know I expected it done. Then I would immediately send a letter to the GC and sub, outlining that conversation, registered, return receipt requested.Couch the language of the call and letter in the most reasonable language, but expecting resolution.

As the buyer, you deserve workmanlike work. And you don't need to do repairs for them. You must give them an opportunity to respond.

If no response by the specified time, then it is perfectly responsible to shake your lawyer at them, and if that doesn't get results, use him to get satisfaction.

Most people just let little stuff go though.

I did one development where the contracts were tight enough, so that we backcharged any sub that damaged another's work. We even charged the offending parties the cost of street cleaning, when they tracked dirt all over the neighborhood.

This is why I like detailed, ironclad contracts that reflect the meeting of the hearts and minds of all the parties. It matches expectations and responsibilities and leaves nothing to chance or disappointment.

Good contractors love detailed and specific contracts and sophisticated owners. It means less misunderstandings.

Bill
 
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rieferman

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Bill - I always think there's a role for a GC liaison who helps "Joe home owner" figure this stuff out and not get taken by the system. Honestly, I think a guy like you could pickup good, and fair, fees just helping ensure the up front is on the level, and that work meets expectations. The GC is supposed to do that, but many won't.
 

bczygan

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Bill - I always think there's a role for a GC liaison who helps "Joe home owner" figure this stuff out and not get taken by the system. Honestly, I think a guy like you could pickup good, and fair, fees just helping ensure the up front is on the level, and that work meets expectations. The GC is supposed to do that, but many won't.

Very perceptive of you. Wherever there is inequity, there is an opportunity.

RE buyers brokers are an example.

It's a funny system when the GC, who is supposed to have a certain level of fiduciary duty to the owner, has in reality, his own self interest at heart.

Things like this get more complicated over time. When I left the business, many types of disclaimers were finding their way into contracts between builders and owners. And specifications began getting more detailed ways of measuring performance. This is a good thing, to define better, the work. But buyers and owners only have limited time to get up to speed on numerous trades, that the tradesmen have practiced and honed for decades or more. Owners do need someone knowledgeable on their side.

Bill
 

Marctrees

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TX/LA border - Toledo Bend
I used citric acid dissolved in water to etch a concrete floor, worked great.

Seems few people know about it, infinately more comfortable to work with than Muriatic.

I actually did a 1200 ft slab in open sandals, no problem.

Now my point is , I THINK, it will not harm the paint.

Before I got involved in lawsuits, etc, I would find a local bulk chemical supply house, and buy a bag.

I think I paid like $30/ 50 lb or so. We used like 4 bags.

Actually, here is 2 lb including shipping for $10 to test.

http://www.dudadiesel.com/choose_item.php?id=2caf

First, try your solution on a SCRAP piece of the siding.

Put a old thick rag over it, and keep it soaked for like 30 minutes. Rinse well.

Once you determined that was ok, do same on your bad spots.

I'll bet it works, with a bit of brushing.

Concentration? I don't recall, start with like 1 lb/ 1 qt of warm water.

WEAR GLASSES

You'll clearly see it fizzing on the concrete.

Let us know, Marc
 
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timewarp

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Sigo

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All,

Thanks for all of the replies. I tried some apple cider vinegar last night and it loosened the concrete just enough so that it could come off with a plastic putty knife. It's tedious work, but I've got more time than money. I may try the citric acid or one of the other commercial products mentioned along with a brush to see if they work any better. Thanks again for your assistance. I really enjoy this site.
 

Norcal

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The problem is with splattered concrete on walls & such, you only have about a day to clean it off, after that then the problems begin. Of course the real answer is to take care not to get mud splattered all over in the first place.
 

Hounddog

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Nov 3, 2013
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386
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NW Florida
I've some of the same issue... My splatter is on an aluminum garage door. I should have known better to have allowed a pour without plastic being up or that door outta the way.

So the citrus agent to loosen it up... I may try that when I get to it. Any case, I see a repainted garage door in the future.
 

wssix99

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Chicago, IL
Thank you, yes, but the acid is in high dilution in lemon juice, not as active.

If any acid is strong enough, you will see fizzing bubbling when applied.

We'll, I suppose using a stronger acid that also strips off the paint and other finishes would also technically solve the problem. lol

The Glycolic Acid in the Sacrete stuff doesn't sound so gentile, either.
 

jrollf

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Aug 7, 2016
Messages
9
...The Glycolic Acid in the Sacrete stuff doesn't sound so gentile, either.

All I can say is when I used it on my wife's car, there was no apparent reaction when it got on bare paint, but it would immediately start turning white and react to concrete. Water is supposed to immediately neutralize it as well.
 

wssix99

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All I can say is when I used it on my wife's car, there was no apparent reaction when it got on bare paint, but it would immediately start turning white and react to concrete. Water is supposed to immediately neutralize it as well.

Automotive paint is also more durable than what we'd have on a house. No matter what acid is used, its probably key to test it on a small area first.

Funny how the car thing works. We get a little spatter on the wife's car and we have to take care of it. My wife just had a fit 10 minutes ago, chucked a bike pad lock across the garage and did $500 of damage to the hood of my car. All I got was an "Oh, well."
 
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