I use one but the blade turns slowly, guessing 50rpm maybe, from a worm drive motor. It uses coolant and has a HSS blade. Gives a nice clean cut and no sparks. Brand is MACC.
Not really sure what it's technically called though? Cut off saw, mitre saw, cold saw...?
I would pass.
I used one of these for a while at a shop I used to work at. I can't stress enough how terrible I think they are. The blades are expensive, they fling hot chips everywhere, the vise ***** on all the models I've seen, this is one of those tools I can't see a use for.
In my shop, we use the horizontal bandsaw, and an actual cold saw. The abrasive chop saw is great for hardened shafting and the like.
If you want one saw to cut it all, get a nice horizontal bandsaw. A good bandsaw will cut that 2.5" steel bar in less than a minute with no heat, no burr, and a much smaller kerf.
I use one but the blade turns slowly, guessing 50rpm maybe, from a worm drive motor. It uses coolant and has a HSS blade. Gives a nice clean cut and no sparks. Brand is MACC.
Not really sure what it's technically called though? Cut off saw, mitre saw, cold saw...?
What you have is an actual, industrial cold saw. These are a great type of saw, but kind of expensive for the home shop.
I would pass.
I used one of these for a while at a shop I used to work at. I can't stress enough how terrible I think they are. The blades are expensive, they fling hot chips everywhere, the vise ***** on all the models I've seen, this is one of those tools I can't see a use for.
In my shop, we use the horizontal bandsaw, and an actual cold saw. The abrasive chop saw is great for hardened shafting and the like.
If you want one saw to cut it all, get a nice horizontal bandsaw. A good bandsaw will cut that 2.5" steel bar in less than a minute with no heat, no burr, and a much smaller kerf.
Dr Clyde and I are in agreement here - and we're in the minority on this forum in that regard. And we're both machinists I think.
I echo all of his sentiments. Band saw is superior in so many ways. I keep my 14" abrasive for hardened materials
Yes, a true cold saw kicks ***. The good ones miter in EITHER direction & clamp on BOTH sides of the blade. Blades are not carbide tooth which actually makes them far less fragile & more easily re-sharpened.
But yes, they are cost-prohibitive for most home shops. The dry cut saws try to bridge the gap for the wanna-be weekend warriors, kinda like an Eco-Boost pretending to be a 3/4t diesel.
The homeowner can have it all with a quality 4x6 or 5x7 bandsaw, or a 7x12" if you can fit it. And it won't make a single ounce of objectionable noise to your wife or neighbors. Blades will cost you $20-35 vs $100 and if you're not stupid you'll replace a blade a year, tops.
But the dry cuts have a cult following---- wait for it....they're coming to tell me I'm mistaken.
On an earlier thread people were claiming the cold cuts gave a more square cut with no need to deburr.
I would pass.
I used one of these for a while at a shop I used to work at. I can't stress enough how terrible I think they are. The blades are expensive, they fling hot chips everywhere, the vise ***** on all the models I've seen, this is one of those tools I can't see a use for.
In my shop, we use the horizontal bandsaw, and an actual cold saw. The abrasive chop saw is great for hardened shafting and the like.
If you want one saw to cut it all, get a nice horizontal bandsaw. A good bandsaw will cut that 2.5" steel bar in less than a minute with no heat, no burr, and a much smaller kerf.
Interesting discussion. Could anyone link a good bandsaw for a weekend warrior?
That's a really good point, especially if you are cutting a rather large piece of steel.I like the bandsaw most because I can walk away and do something else until it's finished cutting.